Factory (style) Fog Light Switch- Fits knock-out!

[barryhiram]

Something doesn't make much sense here: if the High Beam's 12v (+) wire is attached to relay 86 of the Rigid harness, then the LED bar will come on whenever the high beams are on, regardless of whether the AoB dashswitch is engaged or not. I don't really see how leaving the blue wire in place and tied in to the AoB switch changes that.

And adding the diode doesn't make sense to me; nothing in the AoB instruction say anything about that when using a head light as the trigger for the switch. They just say "take the trigger from the head light and hook it up to the Green wire of the switch". Looking at diagram.

Now your over thinking what we're talking about, you indicated you wanted to have the AOB switch turn on with low beams, correct? In which case you were tapping into fuse panel under dash, LED light bar would turn on when activating AOB switch provided low beams were on. That remains the same. Now we're talking about interfacing high beam in addition to how you have planned to wire the system. By running a wire from positive high beam wire to terminal #86 of relay, in essence you are creating a second input to trigger relay. Lets say you're driving down the road with low beams on, light bar off, if you turned on high beams light bar would turn on automatically, no switch required. At any point with low beams on you are still able to turn light bar on/off with AOB switch..........understand?

Purpose of diode (which allows current to travel in only one direction) is for when light bar is on, low beams on, it prevents 12 volt signal from AOB switch from back feeding into your high beams, thus trying to turning them on, which you don't want.

It's not required that you connect into high beams, that's an option, totally your choice.

 

[rigtec]

Hey [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION],

That's a GREAT wiring network/scheme... 'Redundant switching' capability! So... you could turn on your LED using the AOB dash switch, or, just Flash your Highbeams and the LED flashes simultaneously... Brilliant

"You're my Hero!" :hail:

Cheers!

 

[barryhiram]

Hey [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION],

That's a GREAT wiring network/scheme... 'Redundant switching' capability! So... you could turn on your LED using the AOB dash switch, or, just Flash your Highbeams and the LED flashes simultaneously... Brilliant

"You're my Hero!" :hail:

Cheers!

Lol, thanks man! :hatsoff:

 

[4Funnr]

Actually [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION], that's an ingenious solution. But if one wanted to wire it so that you could only turn the lights on with high beams but not require lights to come on with high beams, I assume you'd need to just wire the hot from high beam direct to AoB dash switch green wire instead of the relay being wired to the switch?

This would mean only when both the high beams and the dash switch was ON the LED bar would come on I think? So you would have to run a line from high beam harness into dash through firewall for this solution.

 

[barryhiram]

Actually [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION], that's an ingenious solution. But if one wanted to wire it so that you could only turn the lights on with high beams but not require lights to come on with high beams, I assume you'd need to just wire the hot from high beam direct to AoB dash switch green wire instead of the relay being wired to the switch?

This would mean only when both the high beams and the dash switch was ON the LED bar would come on I think? So you would have to run a line from high beam harness into dash through firewall for this solution.

Thanks [MENTION=46530]4Funnr[/MENTION].Yes, one could wire the system as you have stated, though if it were me, I would grab high beam (+) wire under dash instead of running from engine compartment to AOB switch.....much shorter run, but that's just me :naughty:

Hmm (thinking, thinking, light bulb turns on), here's a possibility if you want to go that route. The Rigid switch harness has three wires already in loom, correct? Blue wire connects to AOB Red (12 volt trigger to relay), red and black wires are not used.

If you were to take let's say, the red unused wire and connect it to AOB Green wire, now go to Rigid relay, there should be two red wires connected together at terminal #30 (make sure power is not connected!!!), cut the red wire that runs back to AOB switch at connector, this is now your donor wire. Just make sure you don't cut your main power feed from battery! Then extend "donor wire" over to high beam (+) extension harness as I laid out earlier, no diode necessary.

No additional wires to run through firewall.............easy peesy:whoo:

 

[4Funnr]

I see what you are saying. Makes life a bit easier. Good suggestion!

It would probably be easier to just connect in dash to high beam but I doubt I could find it since I am unskilled at this.

 

[Jhalko]

I see what you are saying. Makes life a bit easier. Good suggestion!

It would probably be easier to just connect in dash to high beam but I doubt I could find it since I am unskilled at this.

You've gotten this far, take it all the way!

I've been eagerly following to learn a thing or two.

 

[barryhiram]

GO BIG or GO HOME!

:snacker:

 

[barryhiram]

Man, now you got me thinking about adding a Baja Stealth 30" to compliment the 20" :naughty:

 

[barryhiram]

30" on order :bigok: :dancin: :becky:

 

[rigtec]

Man, now you got me thinking about adding a Baja Stealth 30" to compliment the 20" :naughty:

Hey Bro,

Do you know if Anyone makes an optional 'Manufacturer Supplied Wiring Harness' with a provision for Multiple light-bar Output branches from just one "Switch & relay kit"; ...that would surely make things a lot easier for some of us "4R Mod O.C.D. victims!" :ballchain:

 

[barryhiram]

Hey Bro,

Do you know if Anyone makes an optional 'Manufacturer Supplied Wiring Harness' with a provision for Multiple light-bar Output branches from just one "Switch & relay kit"; ...that would surely make things a lot easier for some of us "4R Mod O.C.D. victims!" :ballchain:

Hey man,

Below are just some of the manufactures that offer auxiliary light harnesses for single or dual lights. Keep in mind, when adding additional lights, total light amp/watt draw should never exceed wire gauge/relay/ or fuse ratings.

In my case, adding 20” Stealth draws 84 watts, 30” Stealth will draw 126 watts, for a total draw of 210 watts. Harness installed (single light) is rated for a maximum output of 325 watts, so I have plenty of “room” to add additional light bar. This will not affect/change AOB or Slee dash switches as they only provide a trigger signal to relay. With a simple “Y” adapter (plug & play) all I need to do is unplug connector at light bar, plug in “Y” adapter to harness and light bar, then take remaining harness and route to new light bar. And yes, I want BOTH to turn on with high beams!!!!!!!!!

Rigid Industries
(Deutsch Connector – 2 pin) Wire Harness - D2 (Pair) 40196 | Rigid Industries

Baja Designs
(Delphi Weather Pack Connector - 2 or 3 pin) Baja Designs | LED Light Wiring Harnesses

Slee Offroad
(Connector type? – 2 pin) Slee - Light Harness

SuperbrightLEDS.com
(DT Connector – 2 pin) https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/work-light-accessories/

KC Hilites
(Deutsch Connector – 2 pin) KC HiLiTES | Light Wiring, Light Switches, Light Relays and Light Wiring Harnesses for LED, HID and Halogen Off road lights

If you need to adapt your existing lights to one of the above harnesses, connectors can be found here……………………….

DeutschConnector deutsch connector 2 pin | eBay
Delphi Weather Pack Connector (2 pin) Delphi Weather Pack Connector 2 pin | eBay
Delphi Weather Pack Connector (3 pin) Delphi Weather Pack Connector 3 pin | eBay

 

[Jhalko]

High beams become irrelevant witha 20"
and 30" light bar [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION]

I actually find the high beams worthless with just my 20" rigid bar...

 

[barryhiram]

High beams become irrelevant witha 20"
and 30" light bar [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION]

I actually find the high beams worthless with just my 20" rigid bar...

High beams become more like marker lights.............:lol:

More light is better'er!

 

[Jhalko]

High beams become more like marker lights.............:lol:

More light is better'er!

:iagree:
Yep I have all the light I need forward facing, doesn't mean I won't add more.

 

[4Funnr]

Well thanks a ton to [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] and [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]. Got my grill installed and Rigid light bar wired up.

For the record, I made the following connections:

AOB Green wire to Rigid harness Red wire (12v +)
AOB Red wire to Rigid harness Blue wire (relay switch)
AOB Blue wire to OEM RSCA Green wire (dash illumination)
AOB Black wire to OEM RSCA Gray wire (dash illumination ground dimming)

Everything seems to work appropriately and LED bar can light with car off but it's hard to forget because "hood sun star smash".

I can't recall whether my OEM mirror adjustment or dash dimmer switches were backlit before but they aren't now. I hope I didn't break something. :/

 

[rigtec]

Hey [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION],

That's just what I was hoping! Not only do these 'Prefabs' save you the 'time and material' it would take to 'Custom-build' your own lighting harnesses, but at those prices, it might make sense to keep a few (just for spare parts) on my work bench wall! :nerd:

'...I can't recall whether my OEM mirror adjustment or dash dimmer switches were backlit before but they aren't now. I hope I didn't break something. :/

Hi 4Funnr,

These weren't designed to light-up with the others... NO WORRIES! lol

Rgds

 

[barryhiram]

:iagree:
Yep I have all the light I need forward facing, doesn't mean I won't add more.

I triple dog dare ya!

 

[barryhiram]

Well thanks a ton to [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] and [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]. Got my grill installed and Rigid light bar wired up.

For the record, I made the following connections:

AOB Green wire to Rigid harness Red wire (12v +)
AOB Red wire to Rigid harness Blue wire (relay switch)
AOB Blue wire to OEM RSCA Green wire (dash illumination)
AOB Black wire to OEM RSCA Gray wire (dash illumination ground dimming)

Everything seems to work appropriately and LED bar can light with car off but it's hard to forget because "hood sun star smash".

I can't recall whether my OEM mirror adjustment or dash dimmer switches were backlit before but they aren't now. I hope I didn't break something. :/

:yo: Glad it worked out for you! As [MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] mentioned, dimmer and mirror switches aren't lit, so you wired correctly.

You know I have to say it..........pix or it didn't happen opcorn:

 

[Jhalko]

I triple dog dare ya!

I've got parts that have been sitting in my garage for months now to go on, I need time! I thought ahead though, the extra switches are ready to go. Since I'm going to Overland east that gives me a deadline to shoot for...