Here are some pictures of the LR UCA settings. Looks like both of them are set around -2.
As you can see, a pencil fits in the adjustment gap which means they're much further back than the 0 setting.
That would be the problem.To get the camber right they had
to pull it way in and thus is rubbing/hitting the spring.
Set the plate at the zero setting and about 1/4" in, and then realign and you'll be really happy!
but......Did they put spacers on the support brackets or that will be your next place for rubbing and noise.
Good Luck and I'm sure Ducmonsta will get it fixed.
Very interesting
Excellent pics harper.
Can you explain why your SPC logo ended up facing forward vs. These overland warehouse instructions that have it facing directly out?
http://stores.overlandwarehouse.com/images/LR-UCA-Tips.pdf
Also, the overland instructions say for the 2.5" kit to have the ball joint all the way out, for the 2.0 kit to have it in the 1/4" for the additional space to the sway bar.
I was assuming since the Icon was 2.5" I should be set all the way out. Think there would be any difference with KDSS
Also, I am feeling more confident all the time I won't screw up my install this much.... ; )
I have all my parts except one of the rear shocks was bad and I'm waiting for a replacement. Probably have to wait until next weekend.
I can't tell where the logo is on Limamike's truck.
My pics are kind of at a little bit of angle as well as the UCA's on the truck are angled a liitle and facing forward so technically the logo on the drivers side is facing outward and is just angled forward . But they are at zero.lol
When you have it in your hand you should be able to rotate that top gold plate per the instructions and see what the 3 settings are and envision how each setting moves the ball joint forward(+2) or aft(-2) . You want the one in the middle or zero.
I havn't worked on or researched OW's but if I were to guess the 2.5 spring is a little stiffer and thus a little bigger diameter.(750 instead of 650 of the Icons I think?) That's probably why they suggest to start it all the way out so the spring doesn't rub.I read and learned how to install the LR's and Icons by reading over on the FJ forum where they have some experienced peeps.
UCA's are the same for KDSS or non KDSS.
The difference with KDSS is you won't need/use the sway bar relocation kit or the spacers for the supports.
It's really not as hard as all this sounds and this thread should be useful for those that want to DIY and see what not to do.
The only thing that was hard about the Toytec CO install I did on a KDSS and TE was hooking back up the front sway bar to the LCA . I had to use 2 jacks and a couple of long 1/4" punches to line up the holes to get it back on.It wasn't that hard ,just took an 15 minutes or so of struggling with it to figure out what tools were needed.
I've read of strapping the front bar up before taking it loose so the actuator can't extend making it easier to hook it back up but I hav'nt tried it. The rear bar was pretty straight forward jacking it back up into place..
Embedded the vid for easy viewing
Very good youtube video. First time I've seen it but anybody should be able to do it per that!
