IDEA: Dual Water Temp Guages....

psraff

psraff

New member
Hey Everyone... People with more sense then I chime in please...

For some reason, I'm Interested in my water temp before AND AFTER it goes through the radiator. It just hit me this weekend and I was thinking of putting a temp sensor in both the incoming and outgoing hoses which would go to two gauges so I can monitor how efficient the radiator and fan is working.

I guess I'm always worried about my temps because it always seems to be a few degrees higher then what other owners post (per ScanGauge). Remember I'm in Alaska and temps are hardy over 70* in this area, but I can see 200 - 202 almost everyday. I've already changed everything I can think of (TStat, Coolant (Toy Red), Flushed, New Fan Clutch...) So I just think my temp sensor might be off a bit. I guess I could change it and see if it changes any....

I'm just one of those people who loves to monitor everything I can think of (Even one time I had two ScanGauges setup, but their protocol wouldn't allow me to monitor 8 readings, instead of only 4.)

I'm I stupid or wasting my time in thinking of this idea, or has anyone else ever thought of this?

Thanks!!
 
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My first, semi-informed thought:
Having a second gauge would be potentially interesting, but having a properly functioning cooling system would be better.
The cost in money and/or time of rigging a second gauge---and doing a nice permanent install job--- would approach the cost of a new radiator---assuming you install it yourself, which is easy. We are fortunate that the stock radiators for these vehicles are relatively cheap.
However, if you can rig it cheap, like with a multimeter and a thermistor somehow embedded in the coolant stream....there, you see....it's not gonna be cheap or fast.
 
You have your t-stat installed with the jigger valve at the 6 O'Clock position? If not, do this and see if temps drop.

Also try the rolled up newspaper test on your cooling fan. The clutch drive may be worn out.
 
You're wasting your time. Since the temperature is being controlled by the thermostat you're not going to see how efficient the radiator is unless you've reached the max capacity of the cooling system and the thermostat is no longer playing a role in regulating it, or you have issues with your fan.

The cooling system in these trucks has plenty of capacity, so it's unlikely you'll ever get to that point, especially in your climate. I've had mine in 100 degree weather and the temperature is still riding the thermostat.

If your fan fails, you're going to see temperatures rise on the existing measurement, so there's nothing to be gained there either.
 
pluton said:
My first, semi-informed thought:
Having a second gauge would be potentially interesting, but having a properly functioning cooling system would be better.
The cost in money and/or time of rigging a second gauge---and doing a nice permanent install job--- would approach the cost of a new radiator---assuming you install it yourself, which is easy. We are fortunate that the stock radiators for these vehicles are relatively cheap.
However, if you can rig it cheap, like with a multimeter and a thermistor somehow embedded in the coolant stream....there, you see....it's not gonna be cheap or fast.
Click to expand...

What I was brainstorming was something like this:
Amazon.com: Koso North America Water Temperature Sensor Adapter - 26mm BG026B00: Automotive

I have thought about changing out the radiator, but again I really don't know if I actually have a temp issue or not. My stock temp gauge never goes past the 5/8 point so I always watch that and my ScanGauge together. I think the highest I've seen was 207* and that was from going up into a mountain pass (and forgot to take off the O/D).
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
You have your t-stat installed with the jigger valve at the 6 O'Clock position? If not, do this and see if temps drop.

Also try the rolled up newspaper test on your cooling fan. The clutch drive may be worn out.
Click to expand...

It's been several years since I've changed out the TStat... I seem to remember the jigger and the 6 O'clock issue at that time but I can double check Also, I did change out my clutch at that time as well. Made no difference. This weekend because of a battery upgrade I put my EFans back in (of course I'm not happy with them, but I'm determined to perfect them. I can't explain why, maybe OCD.... Maybe stubborn. ) Maybe just stupid...

But thanks for the input. I'm not shutting your ideas down, I'll pull the housing off and verify the TStat. I'll also research a new radiator. I don't need the tranny cooler built in (unless I get one that's upgraded \ improved) and I'll remove my B&M (I think that was the one I bought).
 
jeremyc74 said:
You're wasting your time. Since the temperature is being controlled by the thermostat you're not going to see how efficient the radiator is unless you've reached the max capacity of the cooling system and the thermostat is no longer playing a role in regulating it, or you have issues with your fan.

The cooling system in these trucks has plenty of capacity, so it's unlikely you'll ever get to that point, especially in your climate. I've had mine in 100 degree weather and the temperature is still riding the thermostat.

If your fan fails, you're going to see temperatures rise on the existing measurement, so there's nothing to be gained there either.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input!! I'll reread this once I wake up some more, but since I'm zoning out reading this, I know there's good info in here! LOL It's just over my head this early in the morning....

Thanks again!
 
You can change the ECT, and along with 02 sensors I usually change mine out every 100,000 miles or so. Serious crud can build up on them.

When is the last time the water pump has been changed?
 
LittleCaesar said:
You can change the ECT, and along with 02 sensors I usually change mine out every 100,000 miles or so. Serious crud can build up on them.

When is the last time the water pump has been changed?
Click to expand...

I have the ECT engaged non stop. There was an old thread on here with a guy testing gas mileage with it on and off. With it on, it appears to be more consistent with everyday driving. I'm not saying better, just consistent.

I'm sitting at 185K, and the water pump and timing belt was changed at 100K by prior owner (Dealership give prior owner my number so we could talk about the truck after I bought it). Exhaust looks original but still solid. I've been waiting for it to fail so I can upgrade. I'm afraid to change out O2 sensors at this point due to the fear of snapping off the nuts. If they fail, I would do a full replacement \ upgrade, but I've never gotten any codes due to them causing problems.
 
Nope, not the ECT button but the ECT sensor (engine coolant temp). If it is covered in old coolant crud it can give off some bad readings.

I would imagine that once the water pump is changed, make sure the jiggle valve is at 6'oclock as well as all air bubbles are out of the cooling system (not the easiest to do on this auto).
 
I bought a dual temp thermocouple temp sensor off eBay. I have it clamped between the inlet hose to my transcooler and the fitting to measure trans temp prior to the cooler. With the two channels you could do the same to both Rad hoses. I bought thermocouple extensions to make it into the cabin.
 
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This is what I use since I got a PM about it
 
but I can see 200 - 202 almost everyday. I've already changed everything I can think of (TStat, Coolant (Toy Red), Flushed, New Fan Clutch...) So I just think my temp sensor might be off a bit.
Click to expand...

Like LC said ..... AIR POCKETS .. in the cooling system.

The same thing happened to me. Once warm it would not drop below 202 ever. It turned out to be air in the system. That is all. Just F'N air.

You might need a good burping. It isn't the easiest thing to do on these trucks. Before replacing anything else consider finding a good mechanic to bump it. Should be very cheap.
 
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To me a burping is some spirited runs to 5000rpm pulling out until the gurgling noise in the glove box goes away. With the jigger valve in the t-stat getting the air out of a correctly operating system should be a non issue.

I've said it before......the key is having a RAD cap that operates properly with regards to the vent valve that's suppose to be open under cold conditions in the cap and only seal tight when HOT coolant shrinks the metal link and blocks off the vent in the cap.
 
I agree with Brian, I would say you probably have some air pockets in the cooling system that need to be expunged. I had them after doing my timing belt and water pump change, where my temps were at 195. Now mostly between 188-191.

That was the ECT sensor I used along with the brass crush washer. I'd be more inclined to order them from Camelback along with a new cap and two crush washers foe the fuel rail jumper that will have to be removed to get to the ECT.
 
Update.....

I opened up my TStat tonight after work today. Looked for the jiggle valve and I didn't have one on there. Figured WTH and I looked at the one I took off several years ago and it didn't have one either!! So I called the parts store and got one that did rated at 180*. I stuck it in (in the 6 O'clock position) and started to burb it (with a funnel and keeping it half full). Tomorrow I'll change back to my stock fan so it's the way it should be. Tonight with a test drive it still went up to 202 - 204 with speeds around 50 - 58 mph. My EFans were kicking on at 191*. I'll also pick up a couple more gallons of Toyota Red and flush my radiator again due to seeing some crap float up in the funnel (not much, just little micro floaters).

This Saturday I'm driving up to Anchorage and I'll hit up the Dealership there. I know I'll pay more then getting the parts from down in the Lower 48, but I want to get this resolved. I'll get the ECT Sensor, ORing, the two crush rings and a new Radiator cap. Well.... Maybe not. Several years ago I went there to get the Thermostat. They wanted $42.00!!!! Camelback has it for 16.00...

I better order it from Camelback. I'll call them tomorrow.
 
I think it just got worse.....

Ok, I'm stressing out a bit.....

Today I flushed my radiator and bought two more gallons of Toyota Red. I also took out my EFans and went back to stock. Burping the system was pretty hard and I was getting cold air out of the heaters. So I jacked up the front and kept at it. Finally I started getting heat. I took it for a ride and my temps went back up to 204.....

Came back and I was feeling around. The top radiator hose was hot. Top of the radiator was hot. Moving my hand down the radiator I could feel it was getting cooler and cooler. The bottom hose was pretty cool. Just didn't seem right to me. So I took my TStat out again and tested it in water on the stove. It does start to open at 180*. Even compared it to the one I took out (without the jiggle valve) and they were consistent. I put it back in (the one with the jiggle valve) and jacked up the truck higher and slowly filled the radiator back up. Started the truck and let it get up to temp and turned both heaters on. I was adding to the radiator as the air bubbles came out. I'm 99% sure I have all the air out. I took it for a drive and left the heaters on and I was happy to see temps from 193* - 198*. I thought I had it!!!!

I shut my heaters off and temps started to climb... Buy the time I got home it was higher then any time before. 209*

Pulled into my shop and opened the hood. My top hose is hot, and my bottom is much cooler! Almost cold. I expect it to be cooler, but not this much...

It seems like the water isn't flowing through the engine. Did my water pump just seem to quit working at the same time I decided to do this????

How can I tell if water is actually flowing through the engine? Any other time I've had a bad water pump in other vehicles, it leaked and I could see it. I have no leaks. Engine is running fine also.

Please help!!!! I'm stressing pretty bad. I was already going to change out the ECT sensor as was suggested (maybe this decided to crap out on me more then it was before????) (my dash gauge is still below halfway), but this seems to be a different symptom. It's worse then when I started..... I don't mind breaking it down and changing the timing belt and water pump.... It' about that time anyway, but I did have a road trip planned on Saturday and I think I'll have to cancel....

EDIT: I know my lower hose should be colder (that's what the radiator is for, I know.) But I'm just throwing everything out on here so you have the full picture. I guess my main question is, is "How do I know my water pump is working as it should?"
 
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