IDEA: Dual Water Temp Guages....

[19963.4lsr5]

It may be time for a new Rad. You may have tubes blocked.

If you have a new clutch drive on your cooling fan and a new t-stat and your temps are still high only thing left in my opinion is to replace the rad.

 

[psraff]

Have my parts come in from Camelback so I'll be changing out the sensor and I hope TStat tonight (and Rad Cap). After that I'll re-evaluate.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Okay

 

[psraff]

Today I was able to swap out my TStat so now I have a Toyota one back in. Looking at it, I can tell you I've never had one in here before. When I bought it, it had an off the shelf one in it.

Note the difference! The Toyota one is on the left.

I went for a short drive and my temps stayed around 188 - 190*. Much better then then 204-208* I was seeing before. I was going to go for a longer drive tomorrow. Maybe a nice road trip is called for to test it out.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Good to hear!

Small parts that should always be OEM: t-stat, rad cap and PCV valve IMHO.

 

[psraff]

Good to hear!

Small parts that should always be OEM: t-stat, rad cap and PCV valve IMHO.

Thanks!

You're right. I would've done this years ago, but when I priced the t-stat at the dealership in Anchorage they wanted over $40 for it. I didn't think it would matter THIS much...

 

[psraff]

Update!!!!

Great News!!! Road Trip today. Dirt \ Mud, 4WD, Low Gear..... Temps never went over 190*!!!! Most of the time it was in the 186-188* Range.

That's potentially 20* LOWER then what it was before. All because of a stupid auto store brand T-Stat.

Now with that being said... I feel my rig runs better \ smoother now (maybe even better gas mileage). Is that just a placebo effect or because of lower temps, the engine is more efficient? Does the ECU adjust with engine temp changes?