InfamousRNR's 2002 Limited BU!LD THREAD

Neither of us had much experience with drum brakes, but I did remember something from my Chevron Gas Station days. Sean's drums wouldn't come off so we had to pull the rubber grommets of the backing plates and turn the adjuster to get the drums off. Like usual, we turned it the wrong way the first time and tightened the brakes even more. Loosening them was problematic but I finally remembered you need to push the adjuster plate away from the adjuster wheel with a screwdriver so you can turn the wheel with another screwdriver or actual brake adjuster tool and loosen the brakes.

I think I'll be investing in some drum brake tools now.

There are two threaded holes on our drums, m10's that you can insert a m10 bolt into and screw them down and the drum will pop off.

Normally I just get a BFH and smack them off. Hurts nothing.
 
There are two threaded holes on our drums, m10's that you can insert a m10 bolt into and screw them down and the drum will pop off.

Normally I just get a BFH and smack them off. Hurts nothing.

You know, Sean did mention the bolt trick but I was too lazy and too buzzed off the beers he brought over to go get a couple bolts at Home Depot. Plus, we didn't know the thread pitch at the time either to go buy the right bolts. But, now that I know the thread pitch, I'll definitely invest in a couple of those bolts for the next time around.

Thanks for the info.
 
Lateral Control Rod

Finally put on the lateral control rod (aka panhard bar) with 7/8" heims from RuffStuff specialties on that was line-x'd.

Thank you [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] for your tool time and expertise !!


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Sick Mods BRA! I was the odd man out with a stock truck. It was cool to see all the different things the other dudes have done with their trucks. A lot of time and money has been spent on some of these rigs.
 
Sick Mods BRA! I was the odd man out with a stock truck. It was cool to see all the different things the other dudes have done with their trucks. A lot of time and money has been spent on some of these rigs.

Allgood man, aside from a lift and bigger tires, my 4runner is pretty much stock. I actually like the stock look.
 
Had to add a little Luxury

woodgrain grippin' louis V sittin'

grabbed a Lexus wheel from [MENTION=105773]busmup808[/MENTION] & took apart my door to add dynamat and some Louis Vuitton in the door cubbies. [MENTION=133963]GGFerrier[/MENTION] knows. . .




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Did a complete flush on the transmission with [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]

Went through 16 quarts.

My fluid looked very dirty even though we did a drain and refill of the pan about 3 weeks ago so I highly recommend this to my fellow 4Runner friends.

We used the return line on the radiator to allow fluid to spill out into a bucket and then added what we took out.. Fluid clarity was night and day and went from a dirty brown to almost clear red.

Trans flush 152,000. Shouldn't have to worry much until 180,000
 
Did a complete flush on the transmission with [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]

Went through 16 quarts.

My fluid looked very dirty even though we did a drain and refill of the pan about 3 weeks ago so I highly recommend this to my fellow 4Runner friends.

We used the return line on the radiator to allow fluid to spill out into a bucket and then added what we took out.. Fluid clarity was night and day and went from a dirty brown to almost clear red.

Trans flush 152,000. Shouldn't have to worry much until 180,000

The fluid being dirty or brown is essentially meaningless. Particles that get suspended in the fluid, once having gone through a heat cycle, change their color. Color is almost never an indication of bad transmission fluid for this reason.
It is my opinion that a transmission fluid flush is never a good idea on a high mileage car. It's possible to dislodge particles that can clog up the clutches and ports and even the solenoids. This is also from my experience on hundreds of forklifts. Just last week we had a customer call us on a slipping transmission which had the fluid changed after 3000 hours by another customer. After a dissassembly we found a ridiculous amount of sludge coating the clutch packs.

Personally, I prefer a drain and fill at longer intervals. I do every 50k. Just my 2 cents :cheers:

Edit: I remember reading a while ago on the Bob is the oil guy forums that introducing new detergents and cleaners to a transmission that has long since been broken in isn't the greatest idea. Thus, the drain and fill (dilution) seems more useful here.
 
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The fluid being dirty or brown is essentially meaningless. Particles that get suspended in the fluid, once having gone through a heat cycle, change their color. Color is almost never an indication of bad transmission fluid for this reason.
It is my opinion that a transmission fluid flush is never a good idea on a high mileage car. It's possible to dislodge particles that can clog up the clutches and ports and even the solenoids. This is also from my experience on hundreds of forklifts. Just last week we had a customer call us on a slipping transmission which had the fluid changed after 3000 hours by another customer. After a dissassembly we found a ridiculous amount of sludge coating the clutch packs.

Personally, I prefer a drain and fill at longer intervals. I do every 50k. Just my 2 cents :cheers:

Edit: I remember reading a while ago on the Bob is the oil guy forums that introducing new detergents and cleaners to a transmission that has long since been broken in isn't the greatest idea. Thus, the drain and fill (dilution) seems more useful here.

I know a lot of dudes on this forum who wouldn't agree with you and scoff at the dilution method. And, some of these dudes have a shit load of miles on their rigs. However, I for one have always done drain and refills but I never wait as long as you do. I've been using the dilution method successfully for automatic transmissions for around 27 years and most recently as a method to renew the power steering fluid for my 4runner. On my Subaru, I've been doing a drain and refill every 15,000 miles. On my 4runner, I'm doing it every 10,000 miles with the thought I've renewed the capacity of the system over 30,000 miles.

On any vehicle I've ever owned with an automatic transmission, I don't think I've ever seen my fluid as dirty as Sean's was but that's probably because of my more frequent interval changes.

I thought Sean would be a good candidate for a full flush because he has those heavy duty skids under his truck that are some work to remove, so why not do a full flush every 30,000 miles instead of doing a drain and refill every 10,000 miles like I do. I don't have a skid under my transmission, so it's a simple twist of a bolt and my pan is drained.

I've heard of this problem of slipping issues after a full flush but it's my guess this is happening because they waited way too long in the first place to renew the fluid and thus caused premature wear which becomes apparent after the new fluid has been introduced.
 
The fluid being dirty or brown is essentially meaningless. Particles that get suspended in the fluid, once having gone through a heat cycle, change their color. Color is almost never an indication of bad transmission fluid for this reason.
It is my opinion that a transmission fluid flush is never a good idea on a high mileage car. It's possible to dislodge particles that can clog up the clutches and ports and even the solenoids. This is also from my experience on hundreds of forklifts. Just last week we had a customer call us on a slipping transmission which had the fluid changed after 3000 hours by another customer. After a dissassembly we found a ridiculous amount of sludge coating the clutch packs.

Personally, I prefer a drain and fill at longer intervals. I do every 50k. Just my 2 cents :cheers:

Edit: I remember reading a while ago on the Bob is the oil guy forums that introducing new detergents and cleaners to a transmission that has long since been broken in isn't the greatest idea. Thus, the drain and fill (dilution) seems more useful here.





I appreciate the response and for my situation I hope I don't have any negative effects from replacing all the fluid... Do you anticipate that a 4Runner auto trans is similar enough to a forklift to assume such a comparison??

We didn't see any sludge.. Is that something you would see in the fluid itself or in the pan?

As for slippage, We will just have to wait and see.......
 
Sup bruh. It was good meeting you today! After reading through your build thread i can definitely say pictures doesnt do justice for this beast! I wish i had more time to check out your rig...mine didnt even look lifted compated to yours. I shouldve taken a pic of them side by side and i actually wanted to crawl underneath it to see all the things youve done haha. Love the attention to detail on the mods youve done and maintenance videos with [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] as well.

When i have time ill be using your videos for reference and hopefully i can meet up with everyone during the next meet!!
 
woodgrain grippin' louis V sittin'

grabbed a Lexus wheel from [MENTION=105773]busmup808[/MENTION] & took apart my door to add dynamat and some Louis Vuitton in the door cubbies. [MENTION=133963]GGFerrier[/MENTION] knows. . .




.



Did you find out how to run the cruise control?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
It worked on my 98 with no issues. It was a plug and play for my truck. Being yours is a newer truck, the plug might be different

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I totally forgot about that... Does it work?

It doesn't work but I believe it is a fuse that has blown since we have swapped my wheel multiple times...

I just haven't looked to see where the cruise control fuse is to see if it's blown...

Because there has been no response since the swaps...

Soooo where is this fuse? Kick panel of in engine bay?
 

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