Lug nut torque...what value do YOU use?

eddiebx

New member
While rotating my tires today, I stumbled upon an interesting issue in the FSM.

One section of the FSM calls for a torque value of: 97 ft-lbf

Another section of the FSM calls for a torque value of: 83 ft-lbf

And finally the owner's manual calls for a torque value of: 81 ft-lbf

To the lay person like me, it seems like ~97 ft-lbf might be a bit overkill since the studs don't really look any thicker than passenger car studs? I recall most of my hondas and toyotas with similar diameter studs being ~80ish ft-lbf...

Personally I've always torqued my lug nuts to ~84 ft-lbf on the 4runner and called it good, but I'm curious about how tight you guys like to twist yo nuts?
 

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Solution
81

My owner's manual shows 81. I checked after my last two free rotations from the dealer to find a few too loose and a few very tight.

On the tight ones, maybe the tire monkey just turned until it squeeked?

I'll do my own rotations in the future.
I have had very good luck with Discount Tire who I have dealt with like forever.

Yesterday when I had my TRD wheels mounted, I stressed DO NOT over-torque them and watched them torque them. They did it to the letter.

I believe lesser shops over-torque due to either:

1) Laziness
2) Lack of knowledge (see #1)
3) Baseless fear of lawsuits for a wheel "falling off"

It's only #1. Wheels that are overtorqued fall off too. That's when 99% of failures happen. It's critical to have them all the same. It's much safer to have them all at 75lbs than 2 at 80, 2 at 90 and 2 at 130.
 
It's only #1. Wheels that are overtorqued fall off too. That's when 99% of failures happen. It's critical to have them all the same. It's much safer to have them all at 75lbs than 2 at 80, 2 at 90 and 2 at 130.

most tire shops love using the air guns to put the lugs on then they check the torque IF its low but what if they gunned the lugs on too tight ?

today I was working a 2006 charger hemi 5.7L. checked out the wheels/lugs and the pressure sensors, tire rotation . could not get the lugs loose with out the use of a 3ft breaker bar and some rust penetrating oil .

too many times this is happening ....
 
whether or not it is useful for the shop remains to be seen, but I have a piece of tape on the locking lug socket in the glove box that reads "85 ft.lb". They sure can't say they didn't see it.

I re-torque my lugs after 100km anyway.
 
most tire shops love using the air guns to put the lugs on then they check the torque IF its low but what if they gunned the lugs on too tight ?

today I was working a 2006 charger hemi 5.7L. checked out the wheels/lugs and the pressure sensors, tire rotation . could not get the lugs loose with out the use of a 3ft breaker bar and some rust penetrating oil .

too many times this is happening ....

If they overtorque - it may cause plastic deformation (meaning it won't return to its original form). Like this
bolt-torque-stretch-compressed.png


That's bad. Next this happens:
wstud3.jpg


Then this
7345d1046831881-broken-wheel-studs-wheel-fell-off-img_0447.jpg
 
Good for you. You paid more and got screwed over. :moon:

To be fair, it is over-priced; but it's very well built and useful. The reason I bought my 1/2" Torque wrench is because it ranges between 12ft.lbs to 250ft.lbs, does multiple variances in units, and also does degrees while memorizing progress (so if you're in a tight space and you can only manage 60 degrees out of 90, it knows when you've hit 90 total).

It's overpriced, but it's a good tool and it's under warranty; I could have wasted weeks hunting for the best value vs. quality and come up with one a couple hundred cheaper, but then again; most people on this forum just need a torque wrench for their lug nuts. They don't really use it for anything else.
 
To be fair, it is over-priced; but it's very well built and useful. The reason I bought my 1/2" Torque wrench is because it ranges between 12ft.lbs to 250ft.lbs, does multiple variances in units, and also does degrees while memorizing progress (so if you're in a tight space and you can only manage 60 degrees out of 90, it knows when you've hit 90 total).

It's overpriced, but it's a good tool and it's under warranty; I could have wasted weeks hunting for the best value vs. quality and come up with one a couple hundred cheaper, but then again; most people on this forum just need a torque wrench for their lug nuts. They don't really use it for anything else.

I could have gotten into it about quality and how I DIDN'T get screwed but not worth it. Snap-On makes the finest tools on the market IMO, I can afford them, and they've never let me down. Not once.

My Dad used to say "Buy a cheap tool, you buy it ten times. Buy a good tool, you buy it once".

But again, like the oil debate, not interested in arguing about it. :-)
 
The reality is the quality of your wrench (unless its grossly out of range) wont matter as the k values will vary greatly and IIRC industry standard (petrochem) for using a torque wrench to determine fastener preload was in the range of +/-20%. Get strain gauges on your studs then I will be impressed :)
 
The reality is the quality of your wrench (unless its grossly out of range) wont matter as the k values will vary greatly and IIRC industry standard (petrochem) for using a torque wrench to determine fastener preload was in the range of +/-20%. Get strain gauges on your studs then I will be impressed :)

hahaha! I can see it now... instead of instead of installing phone mounts they will be asking what the best data logger mount is. We could go with laser gauges...

Is it wet when you install the lug nuts? Did you use air to blow off every last drop? If you didn't your torque value will be in that 20% range.

Classic. I spent the time writing up that TLDR post and nobody reads it. The chances of you getting your torque EXACTLY right is slim to none and slim just left town. Get it close with any decent torque wrench and that's good enough.
 
hahaha! I can see it now... instead of instead of installing phone mounts they will be asking what the best data logger mount is. We could go with laser gauges...

Is it wet when you install the lug nuts? Did you use air to blow off every last drop? If you didn't your torque value will be in that 20% range.

Classic. I spent the time writing up that TLDR post and nobody reads it. The chances of you getting your torque EXACTLY right is slim to none and slim just left town. Get it close with any decent torque wrench and that's good enough.

Hey! Mine beeps and flashes green lights when I get it within that 20% value! :flipoff:

lol j/k
 
To be fair, it is over-priced; but it's very well built and useful. The reason I bought my 1/2" Torque wrench is because it ranges between 12ft.lbs to 250ft.lbs, does multiple variances in units, and also does degrees while memorizing progress (so if you're in a tight space and you can only manage 60 degrees out of 90, it knows when you've hit 90 total).

It's overpriced, but it's a good tool and it's under warranty; I could have wasted weeks hunting for the best value vs. quality and come up with one a couple hundred cheaper, but then again; most people on this forum just need a torque wrench for their lug nuts. They don't really use it for anything else.

The snap on tool line is what most techs use when your in this auto repair business. a reliable tool is important. good service.

for DIY the use of lower cost/quality tools with a warranty is sufficient.

torque on a wheel is not all that critical like torque on the heads. stud stretch is important so that is in the proper amount , so that it will not weaken the metal , wheel studs don't see the heat stress like heads do.

doing this wheel torque check yourself will save you , should you get a flat and then you find the lugs won't come off.

another tire shop issue I have seen is they use worn out sockets which round off the corners of the lugs. then your wrench will not fit.

I have stopped to help owners with this issue several times.
 

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