Maximize your KDSS + extended travel shocks

mteolus said:
So I don't have to look through 7 pages, is this for sale yet? If so, link?
Click to expand...


Sent private message with link.

Just make sure you are actually getting contact. I’ve already refunded a few sets because the customer didn’t even need it. Just because one has shocks and a lift with kdss doesn’t mean you need it. I had a customer come over after buying them on the weekend. I offered to install for free for buyers when we released the product. And when he came over , first thing I asked is if they actually have seen the contact. He didn’t so I jacked his truck up and low and behold he didn’t have contact with his 2” lift and extended travel King shocks. So refunded him.

I totally could have installed and he would have not even know. But we are not like that.


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Last edited:
dom42 said:
Sent private message with link.

Just make sure you are actually getting contact. I’ve already refunded a few sets because the customer didn’t even need it. Just because one has shocks and a lift with kdss doesn’t mean you need it. I had a customer come over after buying them on the weekend. I offered to install for free for buyers when we released the product. And when he came over , first thing I asked is if they actually have seen the contact. He didn’t so I jacked his truck up and low and behold he didn’t have contact with his 2” lift and extended travel King shocks. So refunded him.

I totally could have installed and he would have not even know. But we are not like that.


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Click to expand...

I'm one of the people you refunded. Thanks for just handling it immediately. I run Bilstein 5160 in the rear and it didn't need it.

After reading the above posts I'm planning for my next setup. The question becomes, what is the ideal compressed and extended length for maximum travel with KDSS spacer installed? Do you think we can get to maybe 27.5" of travel?
 
CITYRNR said:
I'm one of the people you refunded. Thanks for just handling it immediately. I run Bilstein 5160 in the rear and it didn't need it.

After reading the above posts I'm planning for my next setup. The question becomes, what is the ideal compressed and extended length for maximum travel with KDSS spacer installed? Do you think we can get to maybe 27.5" of travel?
Click to expand...


It’s all going to depend on what you are trying to achieve. I notice a lot of 4Runner guys go for really long shocks that yeah might give you more down travel from a specific ride height but also what’s happening is they are loosing the up travel. So technically not really long travel or longer travel. Just lower travel. Try to call me and let’s talk about how i would build it. And especially the ifs becomes the limiting factor on these trucks for the front. Only so much you can do before it starts to look stupid and too wide.

Send me a private message and leave your contact or get my number through there.

But yes there’s a way to run that shock with these spacers. At some point around 26.5” the contact will start to happen again but you can fix that with that pan hard correction bracket. Because that bracket limits your up travel, and the shock length of 27.5” is too long , you will need to run bump stops. Exact height will be determined by cycling the suspension. Some of these kits don’t even do that. Everything is on cad file and then produced.

So now at this point with the combination of the pan hard bar correction bracket and kdss drops you can droop further down and the purpose for the drop blocks at this point become a part that doesn’t allow the kdss sway bar to invert it self more then it is for sway bar and track bar contact.


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dom42 said:
It’s all going to depend on what you are trying to achieve. I notice a lot of 4Runner guys go for really long shocks that yeah might give you more down travel from a specific ride height but also what’s happening is they are loosing the up travel. So technically not really long travel or longer travel. Just lower travel. Try to call me and let’s talk about how i would build it. And especially the ifs becomes the limiting factor on these trucks for the front. Only so much you can do before it starts to look stupid and too wide.

Send me a private message and leave your contact or get my number through there.

But yes there’s a way to run that shock with these spacers. At some point around 26.5” the contact will start to happen again but you can fix that with that pan hard correction bracket. Because that bracket limits your up travel, and the shock length of 27.5” is too long , you will need to run bump stops. Exact height will be determined by cycling the suspension. Some of these kits don’t even do that. Everything is on cad file and then produced.

So now at this point with the combination of the pan hard bar correction bracket and kdss drops you can droop further down and the purpose for the drop blocks at this point become a part that doesn’t allow the kdss sway bar to invert it self more then it is for sway bar and track bar contact.


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Click to expand...

Sooooo..... Running these with my Sonorran Steel Radflo reservoir shocks that allow for additional up travel? Thoughts?
 
They will work perfect. Even tho the Sonoran bar gets rid of the contact of the sway bar and track bar , you can now run other parts link adjust your axle front to back depending on your lift height. But mainly what it will do now is give a bigger safety net for the kdss system inverting itself.

Sonoran bar guy says running any longer shocks is not advised because he’s at the limit where the sway bar wants to flip over and if it does you have problems as your piston will get pulled out of the kdss shock. The drops allow for more droop before inverting. Why would it invert? I don’t know how close his setup is as far as it inverting but say it’s at its limit. As time goes by , depending on how you drive or how hard you drive or maintenance schedules for suspension check. Your bushing at the pin top can wear down and allow the shock to come down some. Keep an eye out in that area. I personally hate pin tops.


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dom42 said:
They will work perfect. Even tho the Sonoran bar gets rid of the contact of the sway bar and track bar , you can now run other parts link adjust your axle front to back depending on your lift height. But mainly what it will do now is give a bigger safety net for the kdss system inverting itself.

Sonoran bar guy says running any longer shocks is not advised because he’s at the limit where the sway bar wants to flip over and if it does you have problems as your piston will get pulled out of the kdss shock. The drops allow for more droop before inverting. Why would it invert? I don’t know how close his setup is as far as it inverting but say it’s at its limit. As time goes by , depending on how you drive or how hard you drive or maintenance schedules for suspension check. Your bushing at the pin top can wear down and allow the shock to come down some. Keep an eye out in that area. I personally hate pin tops.


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Click to expand...

Great thanks. My blocks arrive today. I'll be using in in conjunction with my Sonorran steel setup to see how it works.
I'll keep an eye on those areas for wear.
 
comtn4x4 said:
Great thanks. My blocks arrive today. I'll be using in in conjunction with my Sonorran steel setup to see how it works.
I'll keep an eye on those areas for wear.
Click to expand...


Here’s another thing to check before you install the blocks. I have discovered that Toyota has variances in the cap that bolts on under the sway bar. If it is 7/8” thick then you are fine with the hardware we provided. If it’s thinner (11/16”) then you will need to get a thick washer to put under the lock washer we provided. These variances that I discovered are all over the board. Yesterday I did a 2019 ( manufacturing date 2018 ) and it came with the 11/16” bottom cap. I’ve come across 2015 and 2016 manufactured 4Runners and they have the 7/8” thick bottom cap. The kdss drop blocks are a perfect fit in the 2010-2020 but the bottom cap having variances creates the issue with needing a 80mm long bolt or 70mm bolt. Of course you can buy new bolts for it. Which I hate for you to have to do. But we will be providing more washers for here on out.

7fe5cbc0c240e8c2ea1de92636bd2bde.jpg


Also if you have worn out bushings, don’t get it based off the vin number. Get this part number. The bushing is way more burly and updated to hold the links from wanting to shift left and right.

44ffd2a57a69d5a737127e85c1425cef.jpg



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dom42 said:
Here’s another thing to check before you install the blocks. I have discovered that Toyota has variances in the cap that bolts on under the sway bar. If it is 7/8” thick then you are fine with the hardware we provided. If it’s thinner (11/16”) then you will need to get a thick washer to put under the lock washer we provided. These variances that I discovered are all over the board. Yesterday I did a 2019 ( manufacturing date 2018 ) and it came with the 11/16” bottom cap. I’ve come across 2015 and 2016 manufactured 4Runners and they have the 7/8” thick bottom cap. The kdss drop blocks are a perfect fit in the 2010-2020 but the bottom cap having variances creates the issue with needing a 80mm long bolt or 70mm bolt. Of course you can buy new bolts for it. Which I hate for you to have to do. But we will be providing more washers for here on out.

7fe5cbc0c240e8c2ea1de92636bd2bde.jpg


Also if you have worn out bushings, don’t get it based off the vin number. Get this part number. The bushing is way more burly and updated to hold the links from wanting to shift left and right.

44ffd2a57a69d5a737127e85c1425cef.jpg



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Click to expand...

How much did the bushing run?
 
dom42 said:
Also if you have worn out bushings, don’t get it based off the vin number. Get this part number. The bushing is way more burly and updated to hold the links from wanting to shift left and right.

44ffd2a57a69d5a737127e85c1425cef.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Glad you posted this. My bushing was gone. The clamp that holds it on is there but the bushing isn't. And the clamp is not adjustable to I guess I have to cut it off and put on a clamp that has a screw down clamp?
 
mteolus said:
Glad you posted this. My bushing was gone. The clamp that holds it on is there but the bushing isn't. And the clamp is not adjustable to I guess I have to cut it off and put on a clamp that has a screw down clamp?
Click to expand...


No you can actually take The bushing part off the sway bar. You just gotta drop the sway bar get it on the ground. There’s a seam you split open. That clamp / strap holding it there stays there.
c743b954dde0067523d76efdb27a19bf.jpg



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I cut the new batch a little different. Specs are the same. Just the top part I had a form cut tool made. So instead of a slot of top, it’s formed to really key into the end link.

f5be313ac33fe7ce10be16fa3e1704be.jpg



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