My 4gunner restore, refurb and re-work
- Thread starter Jhelms
- Start date
Unner
New member
Yeah, it was the worst part of the job by far for me. Other than that it all went smoothly.
Personally I went with Toyota belts on mine. No issues so far. They were the exact same belts that were on before for 90k miles.
Jhelms
New member
OE belts are great too. After a lot of trial and error with aftermarket belts, I made a choice to stick with Gates - and Gates timing belts.
Nothing really new to update or report except I am switching over to the new Wix 51516XP oil filter. They are a high capacity / long life filter. The goal for me is to only change them out every 2nd oil change (10K miles). I am good with this as the oil is looking decent these days but still have to have it analyzed on the next change. On both 4runners, when I switched them over to T6, the oil was black as night even after a few hundred miles as a lot of yuk seemed to be dispersing / cleaning up in the engine. Looks like that has passed now.
I have always used blackstone but I keep hearing of a local place in Phoenix that is great on analysis. I believe it is http://www.laboneinc.com/ I will shoot them a call Monday and check out their prices. Will be awesome to have a place I can just drop samples off and get quick results.
Nothing really new to update or report except I am switching over to the new Wix 51516XP oil filter. They are a high capacity / long life filter. The goal for me is to only change them out every 2nd oil change (10K miles). I am good with this as the oil is looking decent these days but still have to have it analyzed on the next change. On both 4runners, when I switched them over to T6, the oil was black as night even after a few hundred miles as a lot of yuk seemed to be dispersing / cleaning up in the engine. Looks like that has passed now.
I have always used blackstone but I keep hearing of a local place in Phoenix that is great on analysis. I believe it is http://www.laboneinc.com/ I will shoot them a call Monday and check out their prices. Will be awesome to have a place I can just drop samples off and get quick results.
Last edited:
OE belts are great too. After a lot of trial and error with aftermarket belts, I made a choice to stick with Gates - and Gates timing belts.
Nothing really new to update or report except I am switching over to the new Wix 51516XP oil filter. They are a high capacity / long life filter. The goal for me is to only change them out every 3rd oil change. I am good with this as the oil is looking decent these days but still have to have it analyzed on the next change. On both 4runners, when I switched them over to T6, the oil was black as night even after a few hundred miles as a lot of yuk seemed to be dispersing / cleaning up in the engine. Looks like that has passed now.
I have always used blackstone but I keep hearing of a local place in Phoenix that is great on analysis. I believe it is http://www.laboneinc.com/ I will shoot them a call Monday and check out their prices. Will be awesome to have a place I can just drop samples off and get quick results.
Hey man
Just curious, why wix over the oem Toyota filter?
AZBub
New member
I use Wix. they are great filters and are easier to just go pick up than a Toyota one.
when I started using Rotella the oil changes were nasty but now the oil comes out nice and clean and almost the same color I put it in. I use the T5.
never really thought about not changing the filter every time. with how clean my oil changed are at 5k I'd consider this.
when I started using Rotella the oil changes were nasty but now the oil comes out nice and clean and almost the same color I put it in. I use the T5.
never really thought about not changing the filter every time. with how clean my oil changed are at 5k I'd consider this.
Jhelms
New member
Nothing wrong with the oem filters. But in use and over a lot of years of making brand choices due to good results / cut-open reviews (and my own cut-open checks, I simply choose wix and or pure one filters.
Rather pleased with wix making the XP series and looking forward to seeing how they do at 10K miles between changes - see if the filter element is collapsing at all.
I am still at a 3K interval on oil in the 4runners as things are not totally cleaned up yet visually but analysis will tell all at the next change if I can / should extend to 5K-6K or so (likely)
Nicholas47
New member
Looks great!
Jhelms
New member
Not a ton to report in on
- Did an oil change on whitey at the last 3K interval. Oil is looking good now. Installed a Wix XP filter as planned and will extend oil changes to 5K miles with filter changes at 10K miles (every other oil drop)
- Installed magnetic oil drain plugs. Have had success with them in the past / nice to clean a little goo off every change
- Did another drain and fill on the transmission on whitey. I am one of those... "the solution to pollution is dilution" guys. Drain and fill schedules at every 15K miles at 4-5 quarts (let the car sit overnight to get the most out, otherwise you will only get about 3 - 3.5 out when hot)
- The ultragauges are worth their weight in gold as maintenance schedule devices
Planning a larger service on whitey during my Christmas break. Timing, WP, Thermostat, fan clutch, seals and belts.
Also need to rebuild the climate controls on whitey as they are flaky.
- Did an oil change on whitey at the last 3K interval. Oil is looking good now. Installed a Wix XP filter as planned and will extend oil changes to 5K miles with filter changes at 10K miles (every other oil drop)
- Installed magnetic oil drain plugs. Have had success with them in the past / nice to clean a little goo off every change
- Did another drain and fill on the transmission on whitey. I am one of those... "the solution to pollution is dilution" guys. Drain and fill schedules at every 15K miles at 4-5 quarts (let the car sit overnight to get the most out, otherwise you will only get about 3 - 3.5 out when hot)
- The ultragauges are worth their weight in gold as maintenance schedule devices
Planning a larger service on whitey during my Christmas break. Timing, WP, Thermostat, fan clutch, seals and belts.
Also need to rebuild the climate controls on whitey as they are flaky.
Last edited:
Have you done anything with the Mobil 1 filters before?
I have been using Mobil 1 filters and oil for years now. It's never done me wrong for cheap synthetic changes every 7500 miles. I also haven't kept a vehicle for over 7500 miles in the last 6 years either, except my civic lol.
My 4runner has 220k on it, using 5 quarts of Mobil 1 and 1 quart of the lucas oil stabilizer for the first change. I would be interested in your feedback if you have examined these filters before.
Jhelms
New member
Just a little service work today and a "how to" on the power steering system.
My methods for service sometimes differ from others so as usual, I present my method - use it or discard it :biggrin2: Either way, it works for me
In both my 4runners, I had not worked over the power steering fluid at all. In my previous cars, my method was as follows:
Step 1: Use a service syringe to remove all fluid from the PS tank. I find I can remove between 140 - 200mL of fluid. Just depends on the angle you can get the tube into the tank
Step 2: Once the fluid is removed, Re-fill the exact amount you extracted with new
Step 3: Start the car and turn the wheel lock to lock 3 times
Step 4: Repeat the extraction / fill process 3-5 times if the system has never been serviced. The system does not hold much, so at best, have 2 quarts on standby
Step 5: Do an extraction and fill every other oil change. This will keep the PS fluid in outstanding condition without mess for the life of the car / rack and PS system
Some will say a full flush every 60-100K miles is the only way to go. I disagree unless you flush, and then go off regular interval partial drain and fills. With the PS system, a lot of build up and grime happens especially when it has been neglected as many of ours 2nd, 3rd, 4th+ hand cars are. You can do a full flush and the fluid may look really good! Give it a few hundred miles and it will look like crap again as the detergents and such in the new fluid break down the crap and it is released back into the system. That is why I feel a constant cycle of changes is best for systems like power steering and even transmission fluid / systems with high mileage intervals.
Some will come back with the argument "you do not change your oil 1 quart at a time do you?" Not at all. That is because it is a frequent service item. If I did change 1 quart every 1000 miles for example, I can assure you, my oil would be in just as good of condition, if not better than oil changed every 5K miles. In this, the solution to pollution, is dilution. PS systems are usually not serviced for 100K miles (or way more lol), same with transmissions. However a drain and fill on either at regular intervals, keeps the overall fluid condition in top notch shape / measurably - continuously vs fluid that is GREAT! degrading... degrading... pretty bad... terrible fluid... change it... and start the LONG cycle over.
Some pics of todays service work on my white 4runner. I also did my silver but did not take pics. Does not look like anyone has touched the PS system since new in the white gunner (does not surprise me). Shame on me for not jumping on it right away when I picked it up, but other goodies had priority.
This particular service took about 25 minutes and did not spill a drop of fluid and required hardly any effort. The fluid was BLACK, nearly like burnt motor oil. So this took 5 drain and fills / starting the 4runner and turning lock to lock 3 times in between each one to get it to the condition it is in now.
As I previously mentioned, I will now extract / fill every other oil change (10K miles) and it will remain in excellent condition and actually get better over time. I only found my 60mL syringe so this process actually takes about 10 minutes if you have a 200mL syringe (they sell them online as brake - oil inspection syringes)
Before: Notice the nastyness on the tip of the syringe tube. Gunk that stirred up from inside the PS tank. I am tempted to use a magnafine filter on the PS for 30K miles or so until I clear the sediment up and the detergents in the new fluid break down the grime. Will see how it looks in 10K miles. If you have this gunk on the tube, make sure you wipe the tube clean before putting it into new fluid to suck up fresh ATF.
After the process. Not flawless but in 2 changes or so, she will be as good as new. And with continuous small changes, she will remain as new.
And just for comparison, brand new ATF
My methods for service sometimes differ from others so as usual, I present my method - use it or discard it :biggrin2: Either way, it works for me
In both my 4runners, I had not worked over the power steering fluid at all. In my previous cars, my method was as follows:
Step 1: Use a service syringe to remove all fluid from the PS tank. I find I can remove between 140 - 200mL of fluid. Just depends on the angle you can get the tube into the tank
Step 2: Once the fluid is removed, Re-fill the exact amount you extracted with new
Step 3: Start the car and turn the wheel lock to lock 3 times
Step 4: Repeat the extraction / fill process 3-5 times if the system has never been serviced. The system does not hold much, so at best, have 2 quarts on standby
Step 5: Do an extraction and fill every other oil change. This will keep the PS fluid in outstanding condition without mess for the life of the car / rack and PS system
Some will say a full flush every 60-100K miles is the only way to go. I disagree unless you flush, and then go off regular interval partial drain and fills. With the PS system, a lot of build up and grime happens especially when it has been neglected as many of ours 2nd, 3rd, 4th+ hand cars are. You can do a full flush and the fluid may look really good! Give it a few hundred miles and it will look like crap again as the detergents and such in the new fluid break down the crap and it is released back into the system. That is why I feel a constant cycle of changes is best for systems like power steering and even transmission fluid / systems with high mileage intervals.
Some will come back with the argument "you do not change your oil 1 quart at a time do you?" Not at all. That is because it is a frequent service item. If I did change 1 quart every 1000 miles for example, I can assure you, my oil would be in just as good of condition, if not better than oil changed every 5K miles. In this, the solution to pollution, is dilution. PS systems are usually not serviced for 100K miles (or way more lol), same with transmissions. However a drain and fill on either at regular intervals, keeps the overall fluid condition in top notch shape / measurably - continuously vs fluid that is GREAT! degrading... degrading... pretty bad... terrible fluid... change it... and start the LONG cycle over.
Some pics of todays service work on my white 4runner. I also did my silver but did not take pics. Does not look like anyone has touched the PS system since new in the white gunner (does not surprise me). Shame on me for not jumping on it right away when I picked it up, but other goodies had priority.
This particular service took about 25 minutes and did not spill a drop of fluid and required hardly any effort. The fluid was BLACK, nearly like burnt motor oil. So this took 5 drain and fills / starting the 4runner and turning lock to lock 3 times in between each one to get it to the condition it is in now.
As I previously mentioned, I will now extract / fill every other oil change (10K miles) and it will remain in excellent condition and actually get better over time. I only found my 60mL syringe so this process actually takes about 10 minutes if you have a 200mL syringe (they sell them online as brake - oil inspection syringes)
Before: Notice the nastyness on the tip of the syringe tube. Gunk that stirred up from inside the PS tank. I am tempted to use a magnafine filter on the PS for 30K miles or so until I clear the sediment up and the detergents in the new fluid break down the grime. Will see how it looks in 10K miles. If you have this gunk on the tube, make sure you wipe the tube clean before putting it into new fluid to suck up fresh ATF.
After the process. Not flawless but in 2 changes or so, she will be as good as new. And with continuous small changes, she will remain as new.
And just for comparison, brand new ATF
Last edited:
Jhelms
New member
Jhelms, please be sure to report on the wix filter at 10k
If you are able to extend it to 10k, is that because of the quality of the filter and your synthetic rotella, or does it also relate to the quality of the engine itself as well?
Will do, and all of the above to answer your question. The filter should be fine at 10K. Will see how the oil tests at 5K.
Last edited:
Jhelms
New member
Nothing wrong with mobil 1 filters or oil. Just not my choice. For the price / test results and chemistry, I simply prefer rotella T6. And from time / experience, I prefer wix or pure one filters.
All of the above comes down to automotive politics really, we all have our favorites and stand by them. Some for blind love and devotion / passed down from father to son, others because it works well and is tested to do so. Each to his own. Any maintenance with good oils / filters is better than lack of
paddlenbike
Member
Thanks for posting the power steering write up; I need to get on that one.
Jhelms
New member
Just ordered in for the white gunner:
- Rear Bilstein 24-249966 shocks (Fronts are Tundra 5100's)
- Load leveling airbag kit from Air Lift P/N: 60743
- Air-Lift compressor / gauge / control kit P/N 25804
- 10mm and 5mm trim packers from OME
Wanted to get the ass end under control when towing my 6x12 trailer I am slowly working on to be an expedition trailer. With the gunner fully loaded with trailer, kids, dog, wife and things.. she sags in the rear (the 4runner, wife looks great)
I know I could have just added external ports for the airbags, but decided to do a cheap, compact on-board compressor system. I will mount it inside and behind the rear storage panel for easy access. I may end up adding inside the console or glove box... will see.
The height without the gunner loaded + FJ springs is pretty good. However I have a tad bit of rear drivers side sag. So I will add in the 10mm trim packer to that side and the 5mm to the passenger side. I am doing this as I do not plan to run any pressure in the bags when not towing as I am happy with the ride and height.
Pictures to come soon!
- Rear Bilstein 24-249966 shocks (Fronts are Tundra 5100's)
- Load leveling airbag kit from Air Lift P/N: 60743
- Air-Lift compressor / gauge / control kit P/N 25804
- 10mm and 5mm trim packers from OME
Wanted to get the ass end under control when towing my 6x12 trailer I am slowly working on to be an expedition trailer. With the gunner fully loaded with trailer, kids, dog, wife and things.. she sags in the rear (the 4runner, wife looks great)
I know I could have just added external ports for the airbags, but decided to do a cheap, compact on-board compressor system. I will mount it inside and behind the rear storage panel for easy access. I may end up adding inside the console or glove box... will see.
The height without the gunner loaded + FJ springs is pretty good. However I have a tad bit of rear drivers side sag. So I will add in the 10mm trim packer to that side and the 5mm to the passenger side. I am doing this as I do not plan to run any pressure in the bags when not towing as I am happy with the ride and height.
Pictures to come soon!
Jhelms
New member
That black carpet looks surprisingly good! New carpet is on my to-do list as well. What company did you buy from?
Auto, truck, van, suv molded Carpets - restoration sheet metal
Jhelms
New member
Will be a bigger week next week than originally planned! Along with the airbags and rear suspension goodies, I also ordered...
- Timing belt with all the goodies I did to the silver gunner in previous post on this thread. Go back for all part numbers (fan idler, fan clutch, fan blades, radiator, cap, WP, t-stat, belt idler pulley, belts)
- Rola roof basket with extension (will make sure to silicone the joints)
- Valve cover gaskets and cam plugs
- Lower ball jounts on both 4runners
- 106mm / 1.25" hub centric adapters on the white gunner
For tech info that is all over this thread:
Valve cover gasket set part numbers / Went Felpro on this one
- TCS 45979 for cam plug set
- ES72422 for valve cover bolt grommets
- VS 50422 R for valve cover gasket set with spark plug hole seals
Rola basket part numbers:
- 59504 for roof basket
- 59505 for 18.75" extension
Hub centric spacers from RD Cobra / $120 for 4 and VERY nice quality on initial inspection. Hard anodized, grade 10 bolts and hardware
- 4 PC Toyota 1 25" Thick Hub Centric Wheel Spacers Tacoma Tundra 4 Runner Black | eBay
LBJ part numbers:
- 43330-39585
- 43340-39465
- Timing belt with all the goodies I did to the silver gunner in previous post on this thread. Go back for all part numbers (fan idler, fan clutch, fan blades, radiator, cap, WP, t-stat, belt idler pulley, belts)
- Rola roof basket with extension (will make sure to silicone the joints)
- Valve cover gaskets and cam plugs
- Lower ball jounts on both 4runners
- 106mm / 1.25" hub centric adapters on the white gunner
For tech info that is all over this thread:
Valve cover gasket set part numbers / Went Felpro on this one
- TCS 45979 for cam plug set
- ES72422 for valve cover bolt grommets
- VS 50422 R for valve cover gasket set with spark plug hole seals
Rola basket part numbers:
- 59504 for roof basket
- 59505 for 18.75" extension
Hub centric spacers from RD Cobra / $120 for 4 and VERY nice quality on initial inspection. Hard anodized, grade 10 bolts and hardware
- 4 PC Toyota 1 25" Thick Hub Centric Wheel Spacers Tacoma Tundra 4 Runner Black | eBay
LBJ part numbers:
- 43330-39585
- 43340-39465
Similar threads
