Pink Milkshake: Highest Mileage with Original Rad

Dumb question but how do you get the remaining distilled water out of the block prior to coolant refill? I hear the block drain plug can be hard to find. Is that how you do it?

EDIT - I guess pulling the thermo will do it.....

Thanks
 
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Dumb question but how do you get the remaining distilled water out of the block prior to coolant refill? I hear the block drain plug can be hard to find. Is that how you do it?

EDIT - I guess pulling the thermo will do it.....

Thanks

You can just make an estimate of how much distilled is left in based on the coolant capacity and how much you drain out. If you did a thorough flush what is left should be pretty straight distilled water. At that point just start by putting in an equal amount of non diluted coolant, then continue using your 50/50 mix from there.
 
Dumb question but how do you get the remaining distilled water out of the block prior to coolant refill? I hear the block drain plug can be hard to find. Is that how you do it?

EDIT - I guess pulling the thermo will do it.....

Thanks
I flushed with distilled so many times that I felt confident that the distilled water remaining in the system was pure enough. I added 50/50 coolant until full and purged. I figure what was left may have diluted me down to 45/55 which is still plenty for where I live. I could get away with 30/70 if I really wanted to.
 
Every other thread I see for radiator pricing and options is pretty old.

Here in 2020, where are you guys finding the best deals for OEM quality radiators? Links appreciated
 
Here in 2020, where are you guys finding the best deals for OEM quality radiators? Links appreciated

I tried to have 2 OEM radiators shipped to me from dealers (McGeorge, Camelback).

Both arrived with the top neck area cracked. It's simply because it's plastic. Not the dealer who shipped fault.

So, I'd recommend printing off a McGeorge toyota price or Camelback price and walking into your local dealer to order one.

It's the only way I personally have experienced not to have to deal with receiving cracked ones, and then go thru the hassle of sending back
 
The ones I have seen come out of my local dealer are made in Taiwan.

Thanks, that's what I received this week. Not nearly as burly-lookng/feeling as my original. To answer the other poster's price question - it was $116.00 plus local tax, ordered online and picked up in person.
 
Thanks, that's what I received this week. Not nearly as burly-lookng/feeling as my original. To answer the other poster's price question - it was $116.00 plus local tax, ordered online and picked up in person.

Kinda sucks that I have to replace a solid factory unit with what is probably an inferior product, solely because it's old and might bust a seal eventually destroying the transmission. Oh well. As long as it goes 5-10 years.
 
This has probably been asked before, but is there any practical way to inspect the condition of the transmission cooler inside oem rad? Just rolled over 260k this week and after reading on here today I am officially paranoid. Might just do the swap regardless but I'm low on funds at the moment.
 
Kinda sucks that I have to replace a solid factory unit with what is probably an inferior product, solely because it's old and might bust a seal eventually destroying the transmission. Oh well. As long as it goes 5-10 years.

Yeah I know what you mean.You could cap off and bypass the Trans cooler on the OEM radiator and use an aftermarket unit. I have been trying to diagnose my cooling system that I feel is running 10-15 degrees too hot. I came across a video by Timmy the Toolman and learned from that that my radiator cap had also dropped some of its innards along the way (most likely into the radiator). I grabbed a new OEM one but it made no diff. My problem sounds like the jiggle valve isn't at 6 O'clock, but I'm just going to replace everything and call it a day. 200$ or so for rad/tstat/hoses/clamps/cap is worth not worrying about a milkshake down the line.....

:lookout:
 
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This has probably been asked before, but is there any practical way to inspect the condition of the transmission cooler inside oem rad? Just rolled over 260k this week and after reading on here today I am officially paranoid. Might just do the swap regardless but I'm low on funds at the moment.

No, but if your radiator looks all brown and ugly then I would replace. If your coolant is crappy looking then I'd get a new radiator too. If your cooling system has been maintained then you are fine.
 
Bought a radiator from Camelback. Terrible packaging, but luckily all the important bits seem okay (have not installed yet). Really, can you please add a bit more material for packing? It's not rocket science and would save you on returns. I have ordered radiators from CSF for another car and been very impressed. Could have punted that box from another state and it would be fine.

Anyways, radiator was fine before I removed it, original, 335K miles, very well maintained (I know the rigs history). This happened when I gently pulled the upper hose:
 

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And here's a few more pics. Lots of duff collected over time. I will be cleaning the ac condensor? too.
 

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Certainly one ‘record’ I wouldn’t try to break. Replaced my radiator at maybe 125k-150k with a non-OEM dealer-supplied radiator prior to a 7000-mile vacation, per my parts guy’s recommendation. It lasted until I got rid of the truck at 265k. Never a transmission problem, thankfully.
 
Hadn't heard of Milkshake yet, mine lasted 275-300k brownish/tan color, top tank hairline crack leak, well maintained. Knew then what I know now, over 125-50k mi why not change rad cheap insurance. Doubt new Rad's last as long as original.
 
I thought my radiator was original. Maybe not. I noticed it says "Toyota" and "Taiwan" on it. Were the OEM's from the factory made in Taiwan? Perhaps mine has been replaced once.
 

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