Plastidip and losing the chrome.
- Thread starter 9Hooker
- Start date
Will733
New member
I did mine. You can't take tails apart like you can headlights.
Yeah, I've seen yours before Jesse and it looks great. Just always thought yours was tinted vs painting the inside housing black like others did to their headlights.
Jesse1983
5th Gen Moderator
yeah, mine is tinted. but like I said you can't open up the tails like you can with the headlights. so for tails you either have regular ones, trail version, or tinted.
9Hooker
New member
No issues with the paint. It survived a mid-Atlantic winter and a 1200 mile trip down south. No scratches or gouges on any of the pieces.
I'm confused... thread subject mentions plastidip, put I see a can of Krylon fusion... so which did you do?
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Trying to do research on plastidipping..
This thread is actually pretty good and what i'm looking for.
I do have some questions for the OP or anyone that can answer.
1. Where is the best place to buy this plasti dip from
2. Does the chrome (fog lights) and other items have to be sanded down first?
3. How many coats total is just enough?
This thread is actually pretty good and what i'm looking for.
I do have some questions for the OP or anyone that can answer.
1. Where is the best place to buy this plasti dip from
2. Does the chrome (fog lights) and other items have to be sanded down first?
3. How many coats total is just enough?
StRanger7032
New member
1 Home Depot
2 No sanding required
3 2 coats did the job for me. You can use thicker coats than you would with spray paint.
2 No sanding required
3 2 coats did the job for me. You can use thicker coats than you would with spray paint.
JayG
New member
I have been using Platic Dip quite a bit and have learned a few things....
More light coats works best.....I do 4-5. More you use....the easier it is to peel around emblems and work with after it dries.
Do NOT sand anything. Make sure everything is clean and dry.
Watch the videos on www.dipyourcar.com. I can't say enough....watch the videos!
I find cool, dry weather is the best when applying. I also found out the hard way....the plastic dip works best when it is warm....the actually product, not the weather. Keep the product in your house at room temp before use. I left it out in the garage and even though the weather was nice, the can was really cold and didn't work out well.
Practice on something first. I had chrome license plate frames and did those as practice.
I have had it on my 4r for 6 months and it still looks as good as the day I applied it.
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Thank you both for your reply
I was initiated to Plastidip today, as I blacked out the rear garnish on my SR5. I hadn't read JayG's post above, but by a stroke of luck, ended up following his advise. I picked up a can yesterday at Home Depot and kept it in the house, as the temp dropped into the lower teens last night (the garage stayed between 40-50 degrees). It took about 4-5 light coats to completely cover the garnish.
A couple of things that I learned:
1) Don't tape to close to the object being sprayed. Leave about an inch around the object. It is much easier to peel off a larger amount of the Plastidip than very thin sections.
2) Overspray is abundant, so be liberal with covering the area around the object. I had about 12-15 inches of paper surrounding the garnish. I still got overspray on the rear window and bumper. If that should happen, I found that IPA (not the beer!) was good at removing the overspray.
3) I found that a rag or paper towel was useful at removing the Plastidip in tight spaces. I sprayed directly over the 4Runner lettering on the garnish and peeled the Plastidip off when dried. The Plastidip did not peel as well as I had hoped in between the lettering, and the rag helped remove the residue in the tight areas and corners on the lettering. Just be careful not to rub against areas that you do not want to remove the Plastidip from. I have one small spot within the Toyota emblem that will have to be re-sprayed due to not heeding my own advice.
4) Don't be alarmed if your second and subsequent coats look spotty (as if the spray is clumping) as you apply it over the initial coat. There are a lot of solvents in the spray that evaporate as it dries. This is why light coats may work better (also prevents running).
Just my experience after using Plastidip for the first time today.
A couple of things that I learned:
1) Don't tape to close to the object being sprayed. Leave about an inch around the object. It is much easier to peel off a larger amount of the Plastidip than very thin sections.
2) Overspray is abundant, so be liberal with covering the area around the object. I had about 12-15 inches of paper surrounding the garnish. I still got overspray on the rear window and bumper. If that should happen, I found that IPA (not the beer!) was good at removing the overspray.
3) I found that a rag or paper towel was useful at removing the Plastidip in tight spaces. I sprayed directly over the 4Runner lettering on the garnish and peeled the Plastidip off when dried. The Plastidip did not peel as well as I had hoped in between the lettering, and the rag helped remove the residue in the tight areas and corners on the lettering. Just be careful not to rub against areas that you do not want to remove the Plastidip from. I have one small spot within the Toyota emblem that will have to be re-sprayed due to not heeding my own advice.
4) Don't be alarmed if your second and subsequent coats look spotty (as if the spray is clumping) as you apply it over the initial coat. There are a lot of solvents in the spray that evaporate as it dries. This is why light coats may work better (also prevents running).
Just my experience after using Plastidip for the first time today.
DannyLlama
Elite Member
OOops, I waited only an hour in between. The directions said wait 4 hours in between each coat. It still looks spotty after third coat :shrug:
JayG
New member
You don't need to wait an hour in between coats. I do 15 mins between each coat, or as soon as it looks dry I add another coat and it turns out great.
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DannyLlama
Elite Member
Thanks that makes me feel a little better.
I thought it would be more of a smooth surface and so much textured, not that I mind that. First time at this, so wasn't sure what to expect.
You don't need to wait an hour in between coats. I do 15 mins between each coat, or as soon as it looks dry I add another coat and it turns out great.
Ok, cool.. Wanted to make sure.
Who has 4 hours to wait in between coats!!
JayG
New member
Also.....If you spray from around 8-12 inches you will have some texture. If you spray from around 6 inches or so you will have next to zero texture. I find the lighter the coats the smoother as well. These are just my personal results. I have been playing with this stuff every weekend for a couple months.
eddiebx
New member
I haven't played around with the plastidip myself much either, but I think you can vary the texture slightly depending on how thick you put on each coat. I noticed that if you go with very light coats and build it up slowly it's a bit more textured, and if you lay it on with heavy coats it seems to dry more smoothly.
The problem with heavy coats is you might end up with runs, so depending on the shape of the contours you are trying to spray, thin coats might be the only way to go...
Ahhh, that's good to know. I did hold the can 12-14 inches away per the instructions. I'll try 6 inches on the chrome strips and see if it comes out smoother. The nice thing about plastidip is, if you mess up or don't like the results, yo can just peel it off and try again.
BTW JayG, check your PM.
