Post-lift CV angle

[swimmerdude1127]

When you call Icon order one of the coilover wrenches either way. They're handy to have in case you add or remove weight and need to adjust your ride height later on. With the wrench, floor jack, and tape measure anyone can adjust their coilovers.

I called Icon first --- they basically said everything we've been saying here: IT IS WAY OFF. He told me to NOT drive it other than taking it back to the shop. He was extremely surprised the shop let me leave like that. He advised that with the 700# spring they will probably have to thread the collar all the way up so that no threads are showing. [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION], this proves that the 700# spring is indeed making the difference here -- and a big one at that.

Just got off the phone with the shop. They seem receptive of what I'm saying but want me to call it back right before I take it in to confirm it will be covered. I think he had to check with his supervisor.

If they're not going to cover it, I'm going to thread it up myself and then bring it somewhere else for alignment.

The guy at Icon explained it and it's very straightforward... for those who may be wondering, all you have to do is jack up the affected wheel, unthread the set screw, then thread the coil collar up until you've reached the desired ride height. He mentioned turning the steering wheel would give you much more work space to get in there as well.

 

[Okki]

this proves that the 700# spring is indeed making the difference here -- and a big one at that.

Yup... [MENTION=96409]Canazes9[/MENTION] already confirmed that... my missing piece was the "compressed under load".

Glad to hear that the shop seems to be willing to work with you on this. Gives them an opportunity to learn and not screw up another person.

Okki

 

[Jono.ful]

Without any extra weight on the front end you might find that you don't get a whole lot of compression when you get it up on the jack. My 650's hardly budge with a jack on the bottom ball joint.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Shop ain't gonna cover it. Interesting situation.

 

[Jono.ful]

did you ask them to fix it, or tell them that they were going to fix it? this is a situation where they turned out unsafe work, and are now unwilling to fix the issue. I'd stand at their front counter during a busy time of day and loudly point that out to the most senior person who was willing to talk to you. Plead ignorance if you have to, but unless you signed something that says you accept the risk of driving your vehicle in an unsafe mechanical condition, they should be at least be adjusting the coilovers.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

did you ask them to fix it, or tell them that they were going to fix it? this is a situation where they turned out unsafe work, and are now unwilling to fix the issue. I'd stand at their front counter during a busy time of day and loudly point that out to the most senior person who was willing to talk to you. Plead ignorance if you have to, but unless you signed something that says you accept the risk of driving your vehicle in an unsafe mechanical condition, they should be at least be adjusting the coilovers.

Much appreciation on your words of support bro. I have talked offline with various members of the forum and will be posting a substantial update here tomorrow.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Here's a summary of what's happened:

Friday: picked up my 4Runner, was told it was all ready to go but did not get an alignment sheet because they were out of printer ink. They had to align my truck 5 times to "get it right" and gave me a print out for the 4th alignment -- neutral toe and camber with both front sides above 3 on caster. I specified 3 inches of lift in the front to make it level.

Saturday/Sunday: did precise measurements of my truck after seeing that the CV fins are all binding and that the CV/LCA angle is way extreme, in addition to the truck looking really high in front. Both sides in the front after measuring on flat ground with the truck unloaded come out to 25.25" hub center to fender. This is approx 5" of lift.

Monday: Call Icon. They're extremely surprised it's up that high and tell me something is way off in the install. They also tell me it's virtually impossible to get the truck aligned within specs with that amount of lift. Interesting. Call POR and they tell me to bring it in later but to call before I do.

I call later and they tell me they will not be covering the work because they have already adjusted it twice for me and have set it to my specifications. I explain where I'm coming from and tell them it's way off of 3 inches nor level --- therefore not to my specs. They tell me I can come in to see if we can work something out.

I get in my truck and along the way, stop at the post office with my buddy who was going to give me a ride back from the shop. As I go to get out of my truck, I notice greasy fingerprint stains along the headliner on the driver side window. They were definitely not there before, and this truck is 5 months old. This was the third strike for me.

I have just gotten off the phone with POR. Because of the grease stains on my headliner, they are willing to bring it back in to do the work. I explained that I've lost complete faith in their ability to stand behind their work and get the job done to my satisfaction, therefore I will be going elsewhere.

Because I don't want to drive the truck far, I will be going to Eastern here in VA Beach to have them do the fix. The only negative thing I've ever heard about them is their prices.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Here's a summary of what's happened:

Friday: picked up my 4Runner, was told it was all ready to go but did not get an alignment sheet because they were out of printer ink. They had to align my truck 5 times to "get it right" and gave me a print out for the 4th alignment -- neutral toe and camber with both front sides above 3 on caster. I specified 3 inches of lift in the front to make it level.

Saturday/Sunday: did precise measurements of my truck after seeing that the CV fins are all binding and that the CV/LCA angle is way extreme, in addition to the truck looking really high in front. Both sides in the front after measuring on flat ground with the truck unloaded come out to 25.25" hub center to fender. This is approx 5" of lift.

Monday: Call Icon. They're extremely surprised it's up that high and tell me something is way off in the install. They also tell me it's virtually impossible to get the truck aligned within specs with that amount of lift. Interesting. Call POR and they tell me to bring it in later but to call before I do.

I call later and they tell me they will not be covering the work because they have already adjusted it twice for me and have set it to my specifications. I explain where I'm coming from and tell them it's way off of 3 inches nor level --- therefore not to my specs. They tell me I can come in to see if we can work something out.

I get in my truck and along the way, stop at the post office with my buddy who was going to give me a ride back from the shop. As I go to get out of my truck, I notice greasy fingerprint stains along the headliner on the driver side window. They were definitely not there before, and this truck is 5 months old. This was the third strike for me.

I have just gotten off the phone with POR. Because of the grease stains on my headliner, they are willing to bring it back in to do the work. I explained that I've lost complete faith in their ability to stand behind their work and get the job done to my satisfaction, therefore I will be going elsewhere.

Because I don't want to drive the truck far, I will be going to Eastern here in VA Beach to have them do the fix. The only negative thing I've ever heard about them is their prices.

Crank the coils down your self like you mentioned After you go and pick up the spanner wrench that comes WITH the coilovers. Get it to the correct ride height and then have it aligned.

This will not only save you money, but it will prevent any damage, And you will know how to adjust them for when you add weight to the front.

 

[KVA]

Key is to get it fixed.

FYI - if you're concerned driving or simply want to get it done - even without the spanning wrench, on the Icons you can use a long (long) drill bit that is the same diameter as the nub on the wrench. This should provide the leverage as well to turn the adjusting rings back to the top. You'll simply need to lift each side, letting the wheel hang down, loosen the locking ring, and then turn the adjusting ring back all the way up.

If you take it out to be done, this should not cost an arm and a leg as this is very basic stuff. The alignment will cost you though.

Good luck!

 

[KVA]

Crank the coils down your self like you mentioned After you go and pick up the spanner wrench that comes WITH the coilovers. Get it to the correct ride height and then have it aligned.

This will not only save you money, but it will prevent any damage, And you will know how to adjust them for when you add weight to the front.

I'm too slow...what Scott said above!!!

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Crank the coils down your self like you mentioned After you go and pick up the spanner wrench that comes WITH the coilovers. Get it to the correct ride height and then have it aligned.

This will not only save you money, but it will prevent any damage, And you will know how to adjust them for when you add weight to the front.

Should the spanner wrench have come with my coilovers? When I called Icon yesterday the guy said it usually didn't. I have to drive down to Charlotte Thurs or Fri so I'm looking to get it done and be ready to roll by then...

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Should the spanner wrench have come with my coilovers? When I called Icon yesterday the guy said it usually didn't. I have to drive down to Charlotte Thurs or Fri so I'm looking to get it done and be ready to roll by then...

Almost all the kits i have done have had them, It is possible that those customers ordered the spanner wrench with their kits though. You can use other objects such as drill bits or allen keys, Just make sure they are close in size so you don't wallow out the holes. Lowering the height is much easier than raising.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Almost all the kits i have done have had them, It is possible that those customers ordered the spanner wrench with their kits though. You can use other objects such as drill bits or allen keys, Just make sure they are close in size so you don't wallow out the holes. Lowering the height is much easier than raising.

The guys at Eastern who I was talking to mentioned once they get my ride set at the desired level height, they will drive it over their special rumble strips a few times to get it to settle a bit, then readjust the height and finally align... sound worth it, or would you still recommend I just do it myself?

 

[Scott@Hightech]

The guys at Eastern who I was talking to mentioned once they get my ride set at the desired level height, they will drive it over their special rumble strips a few times to get it to settle a bit, then readjust the height and finally align... sound worth it, or would you still recommend I just do it myself?

The fact that your asking this question means you should probably just let them do it.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

The fact that your asking this question means you should probably just let them do it.

Haha, that's honesty... in all fairness, I know suspensions settle over time, but I wasn't sure there was a way to induce that to a degree. Should that be standard with any lift install?

 

[flyrv9]

I have a question. First, I'm no suspension expert, but I can see the CV angle is extreme a both ends; and will cause both early boot and joint failure. Earlier posts mention adding weight (the bumper and winch) to compress the suspension and reduce that angle. So, what happens when the suspension unloads? Isn't that extreme angle recreated again as the wheel drops; or is it limited by something (shock travel or limit strap)?

 

[Jono.ful]

I have a question. First, I'm no suspension expert, but I can see the CV angle is extreme a both ends; and will cause both early boot and joint failure. Earlier posts mention adding weight (the bumper and winch) to compress the suspension and reduce that angle. So, what happens when the suspension unloads? Isn't that extreme angle recreated again as the wheel drops; or is it limited by something (shock travel or limit strap)?

You've heard the expression "what goes up must come down"? if you're unloading the suspension during driving (traveling quickly over a rise that produces that weightless sensation, or something similar. I can't think of too many normal situations where this would happen), the suspension is obviously going to compress once the full weight of the truck is on it again. For the fraction of a second your suspension is unloaded in this case you're unlikely to do any real damage. On the other hand, if you're out jumping sand dunes or something, long-travel suspension, when combined with extended axles and longer UCA/LCA's correct for these extreme cv angles.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Finally got things straightened out today. Now just need an alignment. CV boots are looking much better. I had to come up to under 1" of thread showing on the top of the coilover.

My hub to fender measurement is right about 23" on both sides in the front and 24-24.5" in the rear.

Now I've noticed the shop also installed my MT offset lower links with the grease zirk facing downward... LOL. How hard would that be to switch around myself?

 

[jbstrd]

Finally got things straightened out today. Now just need an alignment. CV boots are looking much better. I had to come up to under 1" of thread showing on the top of the coilover.

My hub to fender measurement is right about 23" on both sides in the front and 24-24.5" in the rear.

Now I've noticed the shop also installed my MT offset lower links with the grease zirk facing downward... LOL. How hard would that be to switch around myself?

I am assuming the threaded (gold) end? If so, it is only a matter of undoing the nut/bolt, dropping that side down, loosening the jamb nut, rotating a half turn until the zerk is upwards, then putting it back on in reverse order. Should only take a couple of minutes.

It may be handy to have a pry bar or ratchet strap handy in case the bolt hole does not line up perfectly.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

I am assuming the threaded (gold) end? If so, it is only a matter of undoing the nut/bolt, dropping that side down, loosening the jamb nut, rotating a half turn until the zerk is upwards, then putting it back on in reverse order. Should only take a couple of minutes.

It may be handy to have a pry bar or ratchet strap handy in case the bolt hole does not line up perfectly.

Thanks a lot for chiming in.

I just want to be sure prior to undoing the bolt there that there isn't any offset spring pressure where it could rip out of my hand or wouldn't be able to get it lined back up.