Post your LIFTED pix here!

Well since doing either is not something that'll ever happen, I have no idea. Backing up fast at full lock is a great way to roll your truck. Why would you ever brake hard at 10-15 at full lock? Maybe to avoid an accident or something but not something i'm going to ever see regularly or test out.

Max speed locked is 5mph. Who the heck is driving around 10-15mph locked?

ok ok not full lock but that angle where you would usually rub, jesus like a fart in church...:shrug: 5 mph then... :lmao:
 
Spent the day yesterday installing the lift, UCAs, diff drop, wheels and tires.

Bilstein 5100 (front 2.5, rear 1.5 Toytec spacers), SPC UCA, Toytec diff drop, Rotiform 17x9 et1, BFG KO2 285\70. No trimming yet, very light rubbing on front bumper when at full lock backing up at stupid speeds. No rubbing at normal driving conditions. Will see how it is on the trails this weekend.

37279413490_dfb8ffc519_o.jpg
 
Spent the day yesterday installing the lift, UCAs, diff drop, wheels and tires.

Bilstein 5100 (front 2.5, rear 1.5 Toytec spacers), SPC UCA, Toytec diff drop, Rotiform 17x9 et1, BFG KO2 285\70. No trimming yet, very light rubbing on front bumper when at full lock backing up at stupid speeds. No rubbing at normal driving conditions. Will see how it is on the trails this weekend.

Just curious, why did you go thru the trouble of a diff drop and UCA's with only a 2.5 lift? Are you planning for the future or just anal? Lol. Looks great tho!
 
Spent the day yesterday installing the lift, UCAs, diff drop, wheels and tires.

Bilstein 5100 (front 2.5, rear 1.5 Toytec spacers), SPC UCA, Toytec diff drop, Rotiform 17x9 et1, BFG KO2 285\70. No trimming yet, very light rubbing on front bumper when at full lock backing up at stupid speeds. No rubbing at normal driving conditions. Will see how it is on the trails this weekend.

37279413490_dfb8ffc519_o.jpg

I dig the processing style you did here on the photo. Just FYI. Looks like a dealer catalog photo.
 
Just curious, why did you go thru the trouble of a diff drop and UCA's with only a 2.5 lift? Are you planning for the future or just anal? Lol. Looks great tho!

A combination of both I guess. I know the stock UCAs are fine under 3" but I wanted the piece of mind we would have zero issues getting everything into spec once on the alignment rack, and would clear the body mount with the 285 tires and 9" wheels. With the diff drop, it was just a matter of us having one so installed it. At the end of the day, both the UCA and diff drop were no trouble and fairly easy to install, the hard part will be convincing my wife we need a higher lift! :D

And thank you!


I dig the processing style you did here on the photo. Just FYI. Looks like a dealer catalog photo.

Thanks!
 
2015 LTD with bilstein 6112/5160 with t13 coil.. rims are FUEL NUTZ 20x9 with 275/55/20 KO2
 

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Need some help, it’s probably been asked before and just lazy to read it all
Looking to stiffen up the rear when putting stuff in the trunk and the front from dipping down when braking. Can anyone recommend some better coils? I wanna keep my 5100 just need better coils for regular driving and some off-road activity
 

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Its the oem coils with the 5100 adjustable struts
Call Wheeler's Off Road in Oregon. They have a nice selection of coil springs to stiffen up the ride. I'd recommend the T1 front and T13 rears, as that's what I ordered.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 
Does anyone have any pictures of their rear wheel with an Icon lift and trailing arms? My rear wheels look like they are sitting closer to the rear bumper than should be. Icon told me its preset and should match the factory trailing arms.
 

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Does anyone have any pictures of their rear wheel with an Icon lift and trailing arms? Mine rear wheels look like they are sitting closer to the rear bumper than should be. Icon told me its preset and should match the factory trailing arms.

This is normal. When a solid axle compresses and the wheel stuffs, it also shifts back. When a solid axle drops, it shifts forward. Whole axle housing actually rotates at the same time if you ever watch it through it's range of motion. Just the way solid axles and control arms work.
 
This is normal. When a solid axle compresses and the wheel stuffs, it also shifts back. When a solid axle drops, it shifts forward. Whole axle housing actually rotates at the same time if you ever watch it through it's range of motion. Just the way solid axles and control arms work.
Thanks for the reply. When not compressed, the wheel is still a lot more rear biased, is this normal as well?
 

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