Post your LIFTED pix here!

Thanks for the reply. When not compressed, the wheel is still a lot more rear biased, is this normal as well?

IMO, no. It means your arms are too long. Do you have new uppers and lower or just lowers? If just lowers, you can adjust them a little shorter. Shortening the lowers will also clock the pinion "up" which will help your u joint angles and help with vibrations if you happen to have them. What I would do is measure your stock arms from center of eye to center of eye and then measure the new arms the same way. See what you get and post up.
 
IMO, no. It means your arms are too long. Do you have new uppers and lower or just lowers? If just lowers, you can adjust them a little shorter. Shortening the lowers will also clock the pinion "up" which will help your u joint angles and help with vibrations if you happen to have them. What I would do is measure your stock arms from center of eye to center of eye and then measure the new arms the same way. See what you get and post up.

Well that's great, I checked the trailing arms and they are about 3/4" off from center to center (checked holding the original trailing arm up with 1 end in the bolt hole and the other not able to reach. I'll call Icon tomorrow and see how they want to get it fixed.
 

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Well that's great, I checked the trailing arms and they are about 3/4" off from center to center (checked holding the original trailing arm up with 1 end in the bolt hole and the other not able to reach. I'll call Icon tomorrow and see how they want to get it fixed.

The fix is not a secret. They're adjustable for a reason. Remove them, shorten them, reinstall them. May actually not even have to remove them depending on how they're threaded. May be able to spin them in place and shorten them. All Icon would have to do is make one end reverse thread to make that possible. Lesson to be learned here. Never trust anything out of the box no matter how they're advertised.
 
Well that's great, I checked the trailing arms and they are about 3/4" off from center to center (checked holding the original trailing arm up with 1 end in the bolt hole and the other not able to reach. I'll call Icon tomorrow and see how they want to get it fixed.

Yeah man, you need some adjustments there. Keep your pinion angles in mind when making any of these adjustments. You might need the upper rear arms as well to dial it all together after pulling the wheels back in. Also, keep a eye on the pinion alignment as well. When you start bringing the axle in and it’s not perfect the triangulation of the axle to the transfer case can get screwed and cause you vibration problems. Bet of luck with this bro, seriously.
 
I'm at 3" in the back on stock upper and lower control arms with zero issues. Just sayin lol The beefy new arms are great and all but not sure they're really needed.
 
Yeah man, you need some adjustments there. Keep your pinion angles in mind when making any of these adjustments. You might need the upper rear arms as well to dial it all together after pulling the wheels back in. Also, keep a eye on the pinion alignment as well. When you start bringing the axle in and it’s not perfect the triangulation of the axle to the transfer case can get screwed and cause you vibration problems. Bet of luck with this bro, seriously.

Thanks, only the lowers are adjustable and need to be disconnected.

On a side note, I don't know how stupid the guys are at Icon and Outlaw Offroad who said it was to spec and they were positive.
 
The fix is not a secret. They're adjustable for a reason. Remove them, shorten them, reinstall them. May actually not even have to remove them depending on how they're threaded. May be able to spin them in place and shorten them. All Icon would have to do is make one end reverse thread to make that possible. Lesson to be learned here. Never trust anything out of the box no matter how they're advertised.

You got it dead right bro, the instructions say to adjust and tighten the jam nut before installing.
 

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Thanks, only the lowers are adjustable and need to be disconnected.

On a side note, I don't know how stupid the guys are at Icon and Outlaw Offroad who said it was to spec and they were positive.

Right you replaced the lowers, they are adjustable, if you have pinion angle issues after getting the axle centered you may need adjustable uppers to fix that. Well, I’ll say that if the rear is lifted. My bad if I was assuming...
 
Right you replaced the lowers, they are adjustable, if you have pinion angle issues after getting the axle centered you may need adjustable uppers to fix that. Well, I’ll say that if the rear is lifted. My bad if I was assuming...

Thanks for the directions.
Rear is lifted, but only has the lower trailing arms. I'll adjust them tomorrow now that I know its not good for the drive train.
 
Not sure if this is the right place to be posting this, but here goes:

My rear axle is sitting further towards the rear instead of centered in the wheel well. The consensus is this is not the correct setup for the suspension. So I removed the rear trailing arm per Icons instructions and adjusted 1 side. After the trailing arm no longer reached the eyelet hole and I was not able to move the axle further forward since the rear upper control arm does not adjust. Therefore it seems I need to get adjustable rear upper control arms. I need them to be about 3/8" to 1/2" shorter in order for the axle to move forward. Is this what other people have been doing, not able to find a lot of info on this? Also waiting to hear back from Icon if their uppers are adjustable to be made shorter than factory so that it connects. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.iconvehicledynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/I54000T_REVA.pdf

After a second attempt, I did use tie down and ratcheted my rear axle forward enough to connect to the shortened rods. My assumption they came with the kit because the lift required the adjustability...I guess not, just bling for nothing.
 
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Icon says factory length is 12.25" and aftermarket can adjust to 11.875", that means I only end up with 3/8" shorter, but my lower needs to be about 3/4" shorter. Would this be enough? Anyone else with stage 5 icon suspension? Whats your setup?
 
Icon says factory length is 12.25" and aftermarket can adjust to 11.875", that means I only end up with 3/8" shorter, but my lower needs to be about 3/4" shorter. Would this be enough? Anyone else with stage 5 icon suspension? Whats your setup?
Do you have means to check your driveline angles? Level ground no load on rear end. The transfer case harmonic balancer plate and the pinion yoke of the axle should be 0* difference and best case scenario 1* down on the axle yoke. I know a centered axle is what you are after but that driveline angle should also be on point.
 
Do you have means to check your driveline angles? Level ground no load on rear end. The transfer case harmonic balancer plate and the pinion yoke of the axle should be 0* difference and best case scenario 1* down on the axle yoke. I know a centered axle is what you are after but that driveline angle should also be on point.

Only way I have to check is on the alignment rack. I'll try to get it on their today.
 
First picture after lift and tires installed. Icon stage 2 with 285/70/17 ridge grapplers.
 

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