Putting the red bumper lenses to use

[Kmvreter]

Here is another thing I was wondering about. Heat seems to be a pretty big problem when in close contact with the plastic tube on the fixture. Others have warned to cut more off the tube so the bulb is pushed closer to the lens and away from the plastic. I wonder if there are any sockets that are similar to the ones that hold our front parking lights in place. If they had something similar for the dual-filament bulbs, this could do the trick while removing minimal material from the foglight housing.

Any input/thoughts?

They do get hotter than any other lense on the vehicle but no melting issues using the 4157 with both filaments working. The hottest I've measured the lense temperature at was 205F compared to the regular brake light at 105F or headlights at 130F. No tube cutting, just create the hole and open the vent tube.

 

[Pennywise]

Alright folks! Here's the deal on display just TAIL and STOP lamps!!!

Then I used some small Male metal slide connectors on the end of the tail-#1 and stop-#3 pins. Trimmed the sides so that they would slide into the backside of the Runner's harness. The two wires from the tail light harness plug are green w/gray and green w/yellow I believe. Please use a test light to make sure! Slide your trimmed male probes into the back of this harness....they will fit snugly and stay put. Lastly, I used a 5/16" wire ring connector on both grnd wires and slipped them over the TOP tail lamp assembly bolt then screwed on the nut. I stessed TOP because I used the lower bolt on one side and that side worked for the tails but wouldn't light up for the brakes. After testing leads with the light, I figured out the lower nut didn't give me a sufficient ground...I don't know why but it just didn't. Also...be careful when removing your interior plastic square covers to access the tail bulbs. You will marr your plastic if you use too small or two large of a screwdriver. The hardest part of this mod is install the female/male pins to the fogs and tail connectors. They look soooo nice! Kmvreter was RIGHT; the lamps match perfectly. Go to the bank or mall at night after they close, back up so the rear of your runner is facing glass window/door and watch your stop/tails reflect gleamly!

fo'runner, Good job! This probably is the cleanest install for those of us who are looking for parking and brake lights only, however I think that there may be one major problem with this method, the total current draw.

The stock brake lights are 27W and if you use the 4157, they have an output of 27W as well. Doing the math, you have 4 bulbs with output of 27W, resulting in 108 W, and resulting in a current draw of 9 Amps. Since this all falls under the stop fuse at 10 Amps, it is already within the red zone. Actually, there are other other items (on the schematic) such as shift lock control ecu, engine control ecu, suspension control ecu, etc. that are not even figued in with this total current draw. These computers probably function in the mAmp range, but this will quickly add up. Although it seems like the perfect method to wire the bumper lights for brake/parking only, there may be other apparent problems.

Please let me know if my line of thinking is correct. I am trying to sort this all out and just want to make sure that, in the end, my wiring is NOT protecting my fuses...

Tom

 

[Fro-Runner]

Pennywise,

Thanks for your response! I have not had a problem with this/my setup as of yet. I should also note that I added the aftermarket rear spoiler myself. When doing so....I did "NOT" disconnect my original factory mounted stop lamp. Soooo, I have the factory high center mounted stop lamp, the rear spoiler high mounted LED stop lamp, my two rear brake lamps and my two new rear mod 4157 fog mounted stop lamps.

I drove the vehicle on a 6000+ mile vacation back to Atlanta from California (lots of night driving) and I still have "NOT" had an issue with the amp overage yet. My factory fuse is still working flawlessly.......along with all of my stop lamps!

 

[Pennywise]

fo'runner,

Just to make sure that we're still on the same page, you are still using the 4157 filament bulbs in the bumper lenses, correct? There has been much talk here about pros and cons of using leds and just wanted to make sure that we're comparing apples and apples.

As for the current draw, I will hopefully soon, determine the exact current that is being drawn by the stock setup. I will probably throw an ammeter in series with the stop fuse (10 Amp) and see what is being drawn with everything off (remember there are a number of ECUs connected through this fuse as well). I will then see what the current draw is with the brakes applied. I'll keep you guys posted with my findings.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[00328]

Yes, do keep us informed.

I set up my tail/stop lamps according to fo'runner's post, so I am interested in what you find out.

Other than the fog lenses getting pretty warm, have not had any issues. But, I only did mine about three weeks ago.

I love to get in front of other 4th gen 4runners and hit the brakes and watch as they point and oooh and ahhh.
Before anyone comments, I don't pull in front of them and slam on the brakes, only as necessary to slow down.

 

[Fro-Runner]

fo'runner,

Just to make sure that we're still on the same page, you are still using the 4157 filament bulbs in the bumper lenses, correct? There has been much talk here about pros and cons of using leds and just wanted to make sure that we're comparing apples and apples.

As for the current draw, I will hopefully soon, determine the exact current that is being drawn by the stock setup. I will probably throw an ammeter in series with the stop fuse (10 Amp) and see what is being drawn with everything off (remember there are a number of ECUs connected through this fuse as well). I will then see what the current draw is with the brakes applied. I'll keep you guys posted with my findings.

Thanks,
Tom

Pennywise,
I've had my stop/tail lamps in place since June 1st without any issues as of yet. Of course, we haven't had any winter conditions in which I have used the 4 wheel drive system's ATrac, stability or other computer correction devices. Please let us know what the amperage draw is on the fuse! Thanks

 

[Fro-Runner]

Yes, do keep us informed.

I set up my tail/stop lamps according to fo'runner's post, so I am interested in what you find out.

Other than the fog lenses getting pretty warm, have not had any issues. But, I only did mine about three weeks ago.

I love to get in front of other 4th gen 4runners and hit the brakes and watch as they point and oooh and ahhh.
Before anyone comments, I don't pull in front of them and slam on the brakes, only as necessary to slow down.

I thought I was the only one who did this to other 4 runner drivers. I fly pass them then pretend to tap my brakes a couple of times to get their attention. Funny how other 4 Runner drivers tend to awe the extra lighting effects on my Runner's rearend. I really like my setup because you can easily remove them along with the wiring if you decide to trade up for another Runner in years to come.

 

[YSutarko]

i finished mine today, same setup like TRD04RUNNER.

question: on the lens, there's a cap (red circled). Should i leave it ON or OFF.

 

[YSutarko]

.

sorry, multiple post

 

[YSutarko]

.

 

[iFORCE]

Off. It'll help vent some of the heat.

 

[00328]

You don't want to take it completely off, do you?
Dirt and moisture will get in.
I just opened up the membrane and pulled the rubber cover deal out some to expose more of the venting holes that are molded into the rubber cap.

 

[Kmvreter]

You don't want to take it completely off, do you?
Dirt and moisture will get in.
I just opened up the membrane and pulled the rubber cover deal out some to expose more of the venting holes that are molded into the rubber cap.

Correct. That's what I did. You want to provide venting without letting anything in.

 

[Pennywise]

Pennywise,
I've had my stop/tail lamps in place since June 1st without any issues as of yet. Of course, we haven't had any winter conditions in which I have used the 4 wheel drive system's ATrac, stability or other computer correction devices. Please let us know what the amperage draw is on the fuse! Thanks

Ok folks, here is the rundown. I have taken some measurements to determine if tapping into the bake lights is sufficient to light the bumper lenses (for brake and tail only). Here is what I found.

<b>Tail Lights:</b>

Before: 3.5 Amps
After: 4.61 Amps

Since this is on a 10 Amp fuse, no problems here. This is including everything that runs on the TAIL fuse, including front parking lights, tail lights, license plate lights, and all the internal switch backlighting. This does NOT include the dome lights, door lights, map lights and the ignition swith light since they have their own fuse (DOME = 10 A). So we are well on the safe side for the tail lights.

<b>Brake Lights:</b>

Before: 3.87 Amps
After: 6.78 Amps

This is within range of the 10 Amp STOP fuse. Just remember that, as mentioned before, there are a number of computers that are connected through this fuse as well, and they are probably not doing much when the vehicle is just sitting there.

In a nutshell, I think that this method of wiring up the lights for the brake/tail combo is fine. Even though the measured values are lower than the theoretical values, I guess the fuse isn't looking for what *should* be there. Anyhow, I hope that this helps some people out and for those who were waiting for this reply before you did the mod yourself, you now have the whole weekend to get it done!

Tom


FYI: Here are some other values that I measured, which may or may not be useful, but figured I'd throw them out there anyhow.

Front Headlights (Silverstars) draw about 4.22 A each and they are each on their own 10 A fuse.

HighBeams (Silverstars) draw about 4.96 A each and they are each on their own 10 A fuse.

Fog Lights (Silverstars) draw about 8.2 A COMBINED and they are on a SINGLE 15 A fuse.

For the door lights, the stock bulbs draw about .37 A each, the Krypton Super White bulbs draw .54 A each and the 6-LED white wedge bulbs draw an impressive .02 A each.

 

[AlexJet]

Ok folks, here is the rundown. I have taken some measurements to determine if tapping into the bake lights is sufficient to light the bumper lenses (for brake and tail only). Here is what I found.

<b>Tail Lights:</b>

Before: 3.5 Amps
After: 4.61 Amps

Since this is on a 10 Amp fuse, no problems here. This is including everything that runs on the TAIL fuse, including front parking lights, tail lights, license plate lights, and all the internal switch backlighting. This does NOT include the dome lights, door lights, map lights and the ignition swith light since they have their own fuse (DOME = 10 A). So we are well on the safe side for the tail lights.

<b>Brake Lights:</b>

Before: 3.87 Amps
After: 6.78 Amps

This is within range of the 10 Amp STOP fuse. Just remember that, as mentioned before, there are a number of computers that are connected through this fuse as well, and they are probably not doing much when the vehicle is just sitting there.

In a nutshell, I think that this method of wiring up the lights for the brake/tail combo is fine. Even though the measured values are lower than the theoretical values, I guess the fuse isn't looking for what *should* be there. Anyhow, I hope that this helps some people out and for those who were waiting for this reply before you did the mod yourself, you now have the whole weekend to get it done!

Tom


FYI: Here are some other values that I measured, which may or may not be useful, but figured I'd throw them out there anyhow.

Front Headlights (Silverstars) draw about 4.22 A each and they are each on their own 10 A fuse.

HighBeams (Silverstars) draw about 4.96 A each and they are each on their own 10 A fuse.

Fog Lights (Silverstars) draw about 8.2 A COMBINED and they are on a SINGLE 15 A fuse.

For the door lights, the stock bulbs draw about .37 A each, the Krypton Super White bulbs draw .54 A each and the 6-LED white wedge bulbs draw an impressive .02 A each.

What would happen if I'd change the above mentioned TailLights and Brake fuses from 10 to 15A? I think computers and all other stuff should work fine, because I do not raise the voltage or current in circuits, just raised brake down limit. Any thought about this mod?

 

[Pennywise]

What would happen if I'd change the above mentioned TailLights and Brake fuses from 10 to 15A? I think computers and all other stuff should work fine, because I do not raise the voltage or current in circuits, just raised brake down limit. Any thought about this mod?

BAD IDEA. The fuses are there for one main reason... to protect the wiring. It is alot easier and safer to replace the fuses than a wire that overheated and melted (due to too much current). This could possibly cause a fire as well. You never want to just bump up the fuses unless you update the wire to a smaller gauge to handle the current draw. It may work just fine, since we are only running at ~7 Amps, but what if down the line something shorts out and melts the wire before the fuse actually blows.

I don't think that this method would encounter any problems with blowing fuses, since I would imagine that the computers are working in the mA range anyhow. Just my 2 cents. Anyone with more knowledge in the area please chime in.

Tom

 

[Kmvreter]

What would happen if I'd change the above mentioned TailLights and Brake fuses from 10 to 15A? I think computers and all other stuff should work fine, because I do not raise the voltage or current in circuits, just raised brake down limit. Any thought about this mod?

Never upsize a fuse. You risk melting or burning something. This applies to any mod. If the origianal (ie. 10A) works then there is no reason for 15A. If the 10A doesn't work (fuse blows) then find a different way to wire it using different circuitry (ie. a seperate line.)

 

[Pennywise]

I forgot to mention that the wire may be already able to handle 15 Amps with no problem, but there is probably a reason that a 10 A fuse was used. I am unsure of the gauge of wire used, but if we could determine that, we could find out how much current this particular wire can handle. Unfortunately, due to splices and junctions all over the vehicle, it isn't a wise idea to assume that the same gauge is used which connects to the stop/tail lights. Remember that the smallest wire is the weakest link...

Tom

 

[00328]

Pennywise, thanks for taking the time and effort to document your measurements. Puts my mind to ease somewhat.
But, I guess there is still the question of the other systems coming into play when both the tails and stops are lit.
If you are pretty sure that those other systems draw a very low amperage, then all is good.

 

[Pennywise]

Pennywise, thanks for taking the time and effort to document your measurements. Puts my mind to ease somewhat.
But, I guess there is still the question of the other systems coming into play when both the tails and stops are lit.
If you are pretty sure that those other systems draw a very low amperage, then all is good.

00328,

I wouldn't say I'm pretty sure, but I couldn't imagine them drawing that much current. If they do end up being a problem, theoretically the worst that would happen is a blown fuse. That's is their primary purpose, to protect the wiring. If this should happen, I would recommend disabling the bumper lights, replace the fuse and we'll have to figure out another method. So, for all of those out there who have tapped into the stop fuse for the brake lights, please let us know if you ever blow a fuse. I have a feeling that we should be ok, but please keep in mind that I am not an electrical automotive guru, just a 4Runner owner who likes to tweak with things....

Tom