T4R Transmission Fluid Servicing (sealed & non-sealed)

[tucktuck8]

I have a 2006 v8 with 108,000 miles on it and I don't think the tranny fluid has ever been changed. I know I'm not supposed to flush it but to do a "drain and fill" every so miles till its red and sweet. Would you guys consider it to be a safe option if I just took out the tranny drain plug and measured the fluid that came out and then just put the same amount back in through the fill hole and called it a day? If i just replace the same amount of fluid that came out is getting it up to proper temp and checking it really necessary?

 

[bob3dsf]

Tucktuck, I'm in nearly the same boat as you mileage wise with no evidence of tranny svc before I got it. I guess I should've done it sooner. But the 60k recommendation is for primarily towing conditions which I don't do, and the interval used to be 100k. I think the drain and fill with dropping the pan and changing the filter ought to be fine, that way I can clean the pan and check the magnets. Then I may do it again in like 20k later the change out more fluid, just omitting the filter change. I understand high mileage flushing is where the danger lies relating to stirring up debris which is why I want to drop the pan to clean it.

To the members: what brand filter/gasket kit do you like? Napa/O'Reilly/etc. Alright? Should I go for one with a cork gasket? Or am I over thinking it?

 

[amalik]

You both need a flush in my opinion. Forget the drain and fill, it only replaces like 1/4th of the old fluid. There isn't any risk that I know of even if you flush after 100k miles. In fact, I view that as even more reason to flush... you *know* that 3/4th of the ATF is old and nasty. Me personally, I'm not confident in that old fluid being able to absorb heat anymore, which is one of it's main job(s) to prevent a tranny failure!

If you want a story from experience, I flushed after 100k, and after 200k -- with no issues in my 3rd gen.

After the flush in another 40-60k miles or whatever, you can do drain and fills then.

For a filter, only use OEM, it really isn't that expensive and you will be sorry for putting in aftermarket on the transmission filter just to save a few bucks.

I do not own a 4th gen, but I know there is a transmission flush DIY on this site for the 4th gen because I've read it. If you *really* aren't up to the DIY, you can still pay for this service with a shop that has a flushing machine. (I believe Jiffy Lube has one).

http://www.jiffylubesoutheast.com/presentations/presentation-ttech.html

 

[tucktuck8]

amalik, thank you for the opinion. I remember reading somewhere that it is not safe to perform a flush with high miles. can anyone confirm this?

 

[warthog]

transmission fluid questions

Here's my 2 cents on some of the questions:

1. Is it ok to just drain and fill instead of flushing?
It is probably fine. But really, flushing the fluid is easy, so why not? As amalik pointed out, you can only drain about 1/4 of the fluid through the drain plug, so even with a lot of drain and fills, you will still have a lot of dirty/old oil. If you are concerned, send a sample to Blackstone labs or elsewhere and have it analyzed. For $35 or whatever it costs, it will give you peace of mind.

2. Is it bad to flush it?
I've heard that, but it doesn't make much sense to me. The fluid circulates normally anyway, so I don't see how you would be dislodging contaminants or particles, unless you are flushing it under pressure with a machine. The method to flush I used is to just disconnect the hose from the trans oil cooler and drain into a pan. If you don't have a trans oil cooler, just find a low pressure line that is going back to the trans oil pan and drain from there. Run the engine until about 3 quarts is drained, then turn off (this will prevent the trans pan from running empty). Then fill 3 quarts and repeat. Do this about 3 times and you will have replaced everything.

3. Is it ok to replace what I drained, or do I really need to check the overflow at the operating temperature?
Mine was about 1/2 quart overfilled from factory. Is that a big deal? Probably not. But again, it is not hard to check the overflow - the instructions sound complicated, but once you actually do it, its pretty easy.

4. I don't tow - do I need to replace trans fluid at all?
The owners manual seems to say that you do not need to replace differential or trans fluid unless you tow. I don't tow, so did not replace diff fluid until 45k miles. It looked and smelled horrible. Therefore, I figure it should be changed regularly whether you tow or not. I changed trans fluid at 60k, and it looked and smelled like new. So if you don't tow, maybe you can go longer before flushing trans fluid, but I still think it is worth flushing periodically. Trans fluid is expensive, so again, if you are concerned, send a sample for analysis before replacing the whole 12 quarts.

Hope that helps.

 

[4RUNNER_2004]

Just replaced Transmission fluid the second time. Both followed official procedure. Two times I filled in about the same amount I drained out . so if you don't do temperature check and just fill in the same amount as it come out, would be fine as long as car at ambient temperature.

For those cars don't have overflow plug, what they do is just fill in the same amount they drain out, so why not 4ruuner?

 

[tucktuck8]

Quick question - I have a v8 sealed. So If I drop the pan and then run a line from the tranny cooler and start the car until the flow is trickling and then replace the same amount plus 1/4 quart then do the check would this be considered a full flush?

Also should I put the pan back on before I drain through the tranny cooler or leave it off?

 

[JM2Runners]

Check sealed auto-trans 09 V8 Limited

Hi all,
Stellar posts. Thanks for the help.
Finished my flush (non-pan drop method) and all is well.
Do I have to jump the DLP etc. or can i just warm up the trans-fluid and check overflow?
thanks,

 

[Annoyed]

I realize, this is an older thread..
I've got an 06 4Runner, V6 engine with the WS type transmission.

I cannot add fluid to this at home; the process apparently requires the engine be running and warmed up to fill properly, and the fill plug is too close to exhaust / catalytic converter to be comfortable trying to fill while lying on my back underneath it.

I've recently acquired a boat that I will be towing with this. Total load roughly 3800 Lbs, boat and trailer. Call it 4000 with a full fuel load and such for the boat.

Common sense tells me that a tranny cooler would be a good idea.
I ordered a B&M B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler (14K & change BTU), listed as being suitable for my vehicle. inlet and outlets are both 3/8".

The cooler lines going to the factory cooler in the radiator appear to be significantly larger than 3/8", possibly 1/2". In addition to the inability to add fluid at home to make up for the expanded system capacity & spillage while doing the job, I am concerned with the smaller diameter lines restricting coolant flow.

I consulted the local dealer, to try to verify the real line size on that factory radiator/cooler, and to have them flush/fill (exchange?) the system after the job to get proper fluid level.

The dealer recommended that I not even bother putting the cooler on at all, as it is not needed. His logic is (and it makes sense) that the factory specs for the vehicle specify 5000 Lbs towing capacity as manufactured, and since I'm 20% under that, I shouldn't worry about it, just have the fluid exchanged. (almost 100K miles on the T4R)

In addition, Toyota apparently never offered a factory cooler or option package which included one for this vehicle, which is another indicator that an aftermarket cooler is not needed.

Anyone else's thoughts on this? If I don't have to add a cooler, I'd rather not have to add any more plumbing connections to the system since each one is a potential point of failure, as well as the hoses.

Thanks!

 

[oesterj1195]

I realize, this is an older thread..
I've got an 06 4Runner, V6 engine with the WS type transmission.

I cannot add fluid to this at home; the process apparently requires the engine be running and warmed up to fill properly, and the fill plug is too close to exhaust / catalytic converter to be comfortable trying to fill while lying on my back underneath it.

I've recently acquired a boat that I will be towing with this. Total load roughly 3800 Lbs, boat and trailer. Call it 4000 with a full fuel load and such for the boat.

Common sense tells me that a tranny cooler would be a good idea.
I ordered a B&M B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler (14K & change BTU), listed as being suitable for my vehicle. inlet and outlets are both 3/8".

The cooler lines going to the factory cooler in the radiator appear to be significantly larger than 3/8", possibly 1/2". In addition to the inability to add fluid at home to make up for the expanded system capacity & spillage while doing the job, I am concerned with the smaller diameter lines restricting coolant flow.

I consulted the local dealer, to try to verify the real line size on that factory radiator/cooler, and to have them flush/fill (exchange?) the system after the job to get proper fluid level.

The dealer recommended that I not even bother putting the cooler on at all, as it is not needed. His logic is (and it makes sense) that the factory specs for the vehicle specify 5000 Lbs towing capacity as manufactured, and since I'm 20% under that, I shouldn't worry about it, just have the fluid exchanged. (almost 100K miles on the T4R)

In addition, Toyota apparently never offered a factory cooler or option package which included one for this vehicle, which is another indicator that an aftermarket cooler is not needed.

Anyone else's thoughts on this? If I don't have to add a cooler, I'd rather not have to add any more plumbing connections to the system since each one is a potential point of failure, as well as the hoses.

Thanks!

I wouldn't worry about it since it already has a tranny cooler and is rated for 5000 lbs. I think that is boat weight though right. I think it's less if it's a trailer or something like that. Might verify that. Definitely get your fluid changed before you start towing and then regularly if you keep towing with it.

 

[KaseyMcc]

Quick question - I have a v8 sealed. So If I drop the pan and then run a line from the tranny cooler and start the car until the flow is trickling and then replace the same amount plus 1/4 quart then do the check would this be considered a full flush?

Also should I put the pan back on before I drain through the tranny cooler or leave it off?

Hi all,
Stellar posts. Thanks for the help.
Finished my flush (non-pan drop method) and all is well.
Do I have to jump the DLP etc. or can i just warm up the trans-fluid and check overflow?
thanks,

I wouldn't worry about it since it already has a tranny cooler and is rated for 5000 lbs. I think that is boat weight though right. I think it's less if it's a trailer or something like that. Might verify that. Definitely get your fluid changed before you start towing and then regularly if you keep towing with it.

Sorry to call on some of you posting from two years ago, but I was hoping for a bit of insight. I'm looking to do a fluid replacement through the cooler lines but so far it looks like people just use the cooler line to evacuate the old fluid then refill through the fill plug on the transmission. Is it possible to evacuate through one line and refill through the other? If I understand correctly the top hose on the trans cooler will allow me to catch the old fluid coming out of the transmission, so would the bottom hose allow me to refill? Anyone tried this or something similar?

 

[oesterj1195]

Sorry to call on some of you posting from two years ago, but I was hoping for a bit of insight. I'm looking to do a fluid replacement through the cooler lines but so far it looks like people just use the cooler line to evacuate the old fluid then refill through the fill plug on the transmission. Is it possible to evacuate through one line and refill through the other? If I understand correctly the top hose on the trans cooler will allow me to catch the old fluid coming out of the transmission, so would the bottom hose allow me to refill? Anyone tried this or something similar?

I have read a little bit on this and it doesn't seem to have enough suction to replace at the rate that you are dumping it out from the return line. It actually doesn't take that much time to pump it in each time. Kind of a pain. Just make sure you have the right line. I mixed them up and dumped quite a bit on my garage floor...doh! I also dropped the pan and replaced the filter inside, which might have been overkill, but my rig had 180k and I don't know if transmission fluid had ever been changed.

Also read up on getting your fluid level right. You do not want to screw up that one. Best of luck.

 

[RichHawk]

Transmissions

I'm am very new to this site and am overwhelmed by the wealth of knowledge here. How do I determine if my transmission is "sealed" or "non-sealed? Also, can anyone recommend the very best Toyota 4Runner manual?:fishing:

 

[ZebRuaj]

I'm am very new to this site and am overwhelmed by the wealth of knowledge here. How do I determine if my transmission is "sealed" or "non-sealed? Also, can anyone recommend the very best Toyota 4Runner manual?:fishing:

Basically, if you can't find a ATF dip stick, you have the "sealed" unit.

Search the service manual thread for the link. That's how I found the manual for my 07.

 

[catrains]

Sorry to call on some of you posting from two years ago, but I was hoping for a bit of insight. I'm looking to do a fluid replacement through the cooler lines but so far it looks like people just use the cooler line to evacuate the old fluid then refill through the fill plug on the transmission. Is it possible to evacuate through one line and refill through the other? If I understand correctly the top hose on the trans cooler will allow me to catch the old fluid coming out of the transmission, so would the bottom hose allow me to refill? Anyone tried this or something similar?

with no dip stick to fill on these you will need to have 2 people . one in the cockpit the other at the tranny cooler line disconnected. using a marked container 1 qt amount mark run engine until @the 1 qt mark. shutdown engine . go under vehicle add 1 qt. repeat procedure until fluid looks good .

6-7qts should do it for a fluid exchange.

with no load on the tranny in park this is not going to cause any issues to the components. much easier with the dip stick used as the fill tube !

I have done this procedure and many others with the dip stick .

after it looks good then you will have to go and do the tranny temp fill procedure more time . then the gaskets to replace.

 

[bunz559]

I had no idea there were sealed transmissions and that doing a tranny fluid flush was so tedious. Not that it's hard, but definitely much more steps to it than my previous Hondas and my current Subaru!

I am new and just picked up my 2003 V8 2 weeks ago. It has 181k on it and has an extensive record from 1 dealership its entire life. The last transmission fluid flush was done at 146K according to Carfax so I may be good for awhile. But started doing research to prepare for possible next DIY instead of taking it to the dealership.

 

[catrains]

I had no idea there were sealed transmissions and that doing a tranny fluid flush was so tedious. Not that it's hard, but definitely much more steps to it than my previous Hondas and my current Subaru!

I am new and just picked up my 2003 V8 2 weeks ago. It has 181k on it and has an extensive record from 1 dealership its entire life. The last transmission fluid flush was done at 146K according to Carfax so I may be good for awhile. But started doing research to prepare for possible next DIY instead of taking it to the dealership.

since the dealership did a flush you should not worry about it . I would check the fluid condition/level though..

when a tranny has been cleaned up pan drop internal cleaning new screen and then a flush on a high mile vehicle there is most times less debris generated then a new tranny.

using a temp measuring device I have a couple measuring the pan .

in warm weather these are accurate . if it is low @110 deg F . shutdown engine let it cool down add 4 oz of fluid then repeat level procedure .

 

[earthrealm]

nice write up, just discovered my tranny is leaking from the cooler lines, will replace the cooler lines and drain and refill the tranny

 

[jahmes143]

Hey all, about to change the tranny fluid on my sealed '04 V8. I'm going to do the "flush" method where you pull the hose off the tranny cooler.

My question is this...

Do you NEED to add fluid to the fill hole in the tranny, or, alternatively, can you add the fluid to the rubber hose you pulled from the tranny cooler? This would allow you to pump in the new fluid while standing up, rather than laying down under the vehicle.

 

[Woz1976-MT]

Do you NEED to add fluid to the fill hole in the tranny, or, alternatively, can you add the fluid to the rubber hose you pulled from the tranny cooler?

Yes, you can add fluid through the line that returns to the transmission. You will need some kind of pump. There are electric drill-powered pumps and an easy mod to a 1 gallon chemical sprayer.

Here is the very informative threat at Tacoma World (same transmission as our 4Runners):

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

Peruse through it until you find the links to the electric pump and sprayer methods.

Here's a YouTube video on how to make your own pressurized fluid pump from the chemical sprayer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbNhswhnvuA

Just make sure you are measuring the fluid removed very accurately, and the consensus has been to add 1/2 to 1 quart extra in the end to make sure you don't have to try to put more in when you're doing the fluid level check.