T4R Transmission Fluid Servicing (sealed & non-sealed)

h-bone714:

I went through almost the same with my dealer service several years ago. I wanted a WS ATF "flush" at their coupon price. I was set to pay and the invoice wasn't right. After several visits they finally admitted they couldn't do a WS exchange. We settled by my getting 16 liters of the WS fluid and I did the exchange myself.

Now, I have over 100,000 miles and am preparing for a second "flush" (exchange) through the trans cooler line. I have recently purchased 12 quarts of Walmart's Dexron VI for this.
 
removing the transmission pan

2004 4Runner V8 Sport: My 4Runner has an exhaust pipe running under the transmission pan, and I can't find enough room to remove the pan. I can tilt it and remove more fluid, but I simply can't find a way to remove it due to lack of space. Has anyone else had this trouble or had to remove the exhaust pipe section to drop the pan?
 
Another option: If you Google Kirt Koeller, you'll see he's a guru for ZF transmissions, people bring their cars from far away. I dropped in to see him when I had a BMW. His suggestion is to drain the transmission, then turn the engine/transmission pump with the starter to pump the rest of the fluid out the drain hole. Keep track of how much came out and replace that much. Turn the engine again with the starter, then start the engine and run it up to temp so you can check the level. Of course, you have to disable the ignition so you don't actually start the engine when you're pumping fluid out.

This is a guy who has all the facilities to do it any way he want to, but that's how he does it. On a ZF he drops the pan after the initial draining, so he can change the filter.
 
Anyone done this on a 2005 4Runner V6?

I changed the ATF fluid on my wife's 4Runner last weekend following most of the steps listed in all the DIY guides and the jumpin the ODBC ports (whatever they're called) to enter into Temperature check mode. I also own an '06 Tacoma and completed this recently on that so figured there would be no issues. On the Tacoma, I entered into the Transmission Temp Check mode this morning and it took 14 minutes to go from cold of 68 degrees up to the checking temperature of 115 degrees. I needed to do this on the 4Runner this morning to get the level right and wanted a comparison.
The 4Runner went from 68 degrees to a solid lit A/T oil temp light (should be at 115) 2 minutes later, and then flashing A/T oil temp light about 15 minutes after that.
The group consensus and manuals say that running temperature is when the light is solid and too hot is when the light flashes, however I can't believe the 4Runner got up to the correct temp in 2 minutes (start at 68 then hitting 115 2 minutes later) and then took 15 more minutes to go from 115- 125. I did a quick overflow check when the light lit the first time and none came out of the overflow and the fluid inside was cold. So I replugged it and opened it back up as soon as it started flashing (too hot).
Has anyone else noticed this or done this procedure on an '05 4Runner?
 
I changed the ATF fluid on my wife's 4Runner last weekend following most of the steps listed in all the DIY guides and the jumpin the ODBC ports (whatever they're called) to enter into Temperature check mode. I also own an '06 Tacoma and completed this recently on that so figured there would be no issues. On the Tacoma, I entered into the Transmission Temp Check mode this morning and it took 14 minutes to go from cold of 68 degrees up to the checking temperature of 115 degrees. I needed to do this on the 4Runner this morning to get the level right and wanted a comparison.
The 4Runner went from 68 degrees to a solid lit A/T oil temp light (should be at 115) 2 minutes later, and then flashing A/T oil temp light about 15 minutes after that.
The group consensus and manuals say that running temperature is when the light is solid and too hot is when the light flashes, however I can't believe the 4Runner got up to the correct temp in 2 minutes (start at 68 then hitting 115 2 minutes later) and then took 15 more minutes to go from 115- 125. I did a quick overflow check when the light lit the first time and none came out of the overflow and the fluid inside was cold. So I replugged it and opened it back up as soon as it started flashing (too hot).
Has anyone else noticed this or done this procedure on an '05 4Runner?

Did you let the 4Runner warm-up in gear with the p-brake on and Taco in N or P? That makes a HUGE difference in the amount of time required...
 
Flushed Today

I flushed my 4Runner's transmission today. I'm glad I did. I have the V8 with the "sealed" transmission. Replaced with Amsoil WS Compliant Low Viscosity fluid.

Saying I am unimpressed with the Toyota WS is too harsh, but it was definitely darker and not as sweet smelling as I was expecting with only 60K miles. Full disclosure: I've towed a 5500 lb boat from Seattle-Houston-Seattle. . .twice. . so the transmission has been put through its paces.

The procedure was really straight forward. I put the truck on jacks. That might be the best reason for me to get a lift, so I can just slide under and do MX. Anyway, drain, fill, and start the car. I used the return line on the standard transmission cooler to expel the old fluid.

This is only slight more difficult than an oil change! Take a sample of that transmission fluid y'all!
 
How are you guys refilling the trans through the refill hole? I haven't crawled underneath yet to take a look, but from the pics I've seen, it looks a little cramped. Are you just using one of those cheap fluid pumps from the auto parts store?
I am going to be doing this change as soon as the weather warms up some and I'm trying to get all the info together.
I think I'm going to stick with the OEM WS fluid.
 
Transmission fluid exchange/flush machine

Here's a quote from.....
Mechanic added too much ATF! - Club Lexus Forums
tt400.jpg




T-Tech TT400 ATF Exchange System
The finest name in ATF exchange just got even better. Like its predecessors, the TT400 utilizes the revolutionary T-Tech process to exchange virtually 100% of the vehicle's transmission fluid. The vehicle's own transmission regulates the exchange process guaranteeing that proper pressure and fill are maintained. An on-board pump speeds cylinder filling. The new TT400 features a rugged new roto-molded case design, upgraded internal plumbing connections, a drip tray enhanced storage space and side pocket for storage of manuals.
Auto-alignment for fast and easy hookups.
Auto-bypass mode when service is completed means the machine can be left unattended.
Clear fluid cylinder drives home the benefit of ATF exchange
Includes standard and special fittings
Leak-free, dry break quick connect couplers.
Drain pan feature to conveniently drain transmission pan.

This is the same machine that was at Jiffy lube on Barber Boulevard in s.w. portland, OR when I worked there in 1997 and it did a phenomenal job too.
 
How are you guys refilling the trans through the refill hole? I haven't crawled underneath yet to take a look, but from the pics I've seen, it looks a little cramped. Are you just using one of those cheap fluid pumps from the auto parts store?
I am going to be doing this change as soon as the weather warms up some and I'm trying to get all the info together.
I think I'm going to stick with the OEM WS fluid.

I just did it tonight... lemme tell you, hella mess... Yes, you'll need a pump from the auto parts store... mine fits either 1 quart bottles and 4 quart bottles... it also has a nozzle on the end with tabs which hold it into the fill hole... comes in real handy for changing diff/transfer fluid too.
 
ATF Level

Yesterday I drained and flushed my '04-V8 with the sealed transmission, thanks to all of the help from posts here that describe the process. However; when I first removed the check level plug, I noticed that it drained approximately one quart of ATF. It was parked in my garage, which is perfectly level, and there have been no mods to the suspension, and the transmission was only barely warm (105 F). So it was quite a surprise to see that much fluid come out, indicating it was overfilled. I bought the 4runner new, it has 102,000 miles and this is the first drain/fill, so this condition had to come from the factory.

When I removed the drain plug, I only got two more quarts, so a total of 3 qts drained out by gravity. That seems about right from what I read here, but all of that should have come from the drain plug, and none from the fill check plug. I also flushed some using the oil cooler lines, and I replaced the same amount that I removed in total. When I warmed it up and cycled the transmission; and then checked; it was still pouring out of the check level plug. I drained maybe 1/3 qt that way but then decided to stop and leave it apparently overfull. If it came from the factory that way and it has run over 100K miles without a flaw, then maybe there is something else going on with the level check.

Has anybody else seen this, any ideas on what is going on here?
 
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The tranny needs to be fully warmed up, drive it around the block a few times, and the engine needs to be running in park when you remove the check plug.
Not sure from your description if this is the way you did it or not.
If so, then nevermind.
 
ATF Level

OK, so I refilled it with the same amount that I removed. I started the engine, cycled it through the gears, warmed it to 115 F and put it in Park. Then I cut off the engine, crawled under and checked the level. My bad, I should have remembered from the old days when we had dipsticks, it said clearly to check the level with the engine running, in Park. It just seems counter intuitive to crawl under the car with the engine running, but that is what you have to do. I had to add a 1/2 qt to get it to dribble out the check plug (with the engine running).

Thanks for the help.
 
No problem.

I wasn't too crazy about crawling underneath with the engine running either.
I just got it done quickly and got outa there.
 
So I just did a transmission flush and refilled with Amsoil using the method described in the service manual shorting jumpers 4 and 13 and waiting for the A/T Oil Temp light to come on. I waited for a few minutes after the light came on to drain to get closer to standard operating temperature but before the light flashed.

After finishing it I started the truck and the check engine light came on. I drove it around a bit and it seemed to shift fine up through the gears but when I move the shifter from D to R there is a very faint rattle.

Anyone have the same or similar experience? I have some oil left over so I'm going to try refilling half a quart and checking oil level at operating temp.
 
Like a noob I posted before doing a search. Turns out that check engine + VSC off + VSC error is a common problem that can be remedied by putting the gas cap on tight or in my case disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds.

God I love this forum.
 
After finishing it I started the truck and the check engine light came on. I drove it around a bit and it seemed to shift fine up through the gears but when I move the shifter from D to R there is a very faint rattle.

I'm hearing what I think is the same sound. I only recently started noticing it when I shift from park to reverse and then start to move. Within 5-10 feet it stops. Only thing I did recently was grease the zerks on all of the driveline points for the second time since I bought the car used back in November 2010.
 
additional notes for sealed trans with v8

Wanted to add a couple notes. Some of this is repeated from Mike's instructions about the non-sealed transmission.

crush washer for drain and overflow: p/n 35178-30010 approx $2.50
Fill plug gasket (re-usable, but if yours is damaged): p/n 90301-15004

Remember that you will need 2 crush washers if you are replacing for the drain plug and the overflow plug. Overflow uses 5 mm allen, drain is 10 mm socket. Torque both to 15 ft-lbs (180 in-lbs).

If you replace the filter, the bolts holding the filter in place require 10 mm socket and torque of 7 ft-lbs (84 in-lbs). The bolts holding the pan require 10 mm socket and torque of 65 in-lbs.

Fill plug requires 24 mm socket and 29 ft-lbs torque.

If you have a v8, you will need to remove the exhaust crossover pipe that runs directly under the trans pan. You can remove it by disconnecting at the flange interface on both ends of the crossover pipe. Soak the bolts/threaded rods in penetrant. On the driver's side, loosen the nuts screwed into the threaded rod. On the passenger side, loosen the bolt, not the nuts. The nuts are welded in place. Each requires 14 mm socket. There is an 02 sensor that can be unplugged. When re-installing, torque the bolts/nuts to 46 ft-lbs. Might want to put some anti-seize to make it easier to remove next time.

Each flange of the exhaust pipe has a metal gasket listed as not re-usable.
Exhaust flange gasket (for v8): p/n 90080-43036, $10 each, qnty 2 will be needed.

I drained a total of 12 quarts (4 by dropping my pan, another 8 at the heat exchanger). I put in the same as I took out, and when I checked the level (at correct temperature), between 1/4 and 1/2 of a quart drained out of the overflow. It took me about 20 minutes for the A/T light to come on indicating that the operating temperature had been reached. I was wondering if it was working since it was taking so long, but if you are just idling on "P", it will take a while.

Get a pump for the fluid. I managed without one, but made a mess.

Hope that helps.
 
I changed the ATF fluid on my wife's 4Runner last weekend following most of the steps listed in all the DIY guides and the jumpin the ODBC ports (whatever they're called) to enter into Temperature check mode. I also own an '06 Tacoma and completed this recently on that so figured there would be no issues. On the Tacoma, I entered into the Transmission Temp Check mode this morning and it took 14 minutes to go from cold of 68 degrees up to the checking temperature of 115 degrees. I needed to do this on the 4Runner this morning to get the level right and wanted a comparison.
The 4Runner went from 68 degrees to a solid lit A/T oil temp light (should be at 115) 2 minutes later, and then flashing A/T oil temp light about 15 minutes after that.
The group consensus and manuals say that running temperature is when the light is solid and too hot is when the light flashes, however I can't believe the 4Runner got up to the correct temp in 2 minutes (start at 68 then hitting 115 2 minutes later) and then took 15 more minutes to go from 115- 125. I did a quick overflow check when the light lit the first time and none came out of the overflow and the fluid inside was cold. So I replugged it and opened it back up as soon as it started flashing (too hot).
Has anyone else noticed this or done this procedure on an '05 4Runner?

My AT light also didn't work as expected. Mine came on & stayed on right as I ran through the D/N sequence & then never worked as it says. If the truck is in a gear, then the light is off. In Neutral or park, the light is always on.

Every other light on the dash was flashing like crazy though??!?!? Strange.

In the end, I guesstimated the temperature from putting my hand on the pan.

Finally, on a 2008 V8 4x4, the exhaust crosspipe has been moved behind the structural member, so there is no issue removing the pan. I got about 5qts from the pan & another 0.5 or so from blowing out the heat exchanger with ~30psi compressed air. Most of that ended up all over the bottom of the 4runner, floor and on the Audi parked next to it. Yay!
 

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