TCMach's Build Thread

[ChildrenOfBodom]

I agree with farmerjon, how did I miss this one? Nice build!

This thing is a beauty, great job with the cleanliness! That CBI is very drool worthy, thank you for posting such clear closeups.

That really sucks about your Mustang. It looks extremely well kept.

You've done all of this in just 5 months? Wow, I am subscribed to see where this build will go.

 

[TCMach]

2) 9 wraps should do well if you want more height. Lots of people run 861s with rear bumpers too. Hopefully your CVs don't hate you too much if you get to 4 inches.

4) Yes do it. 30" LED light bar :thumb3:

5) Also, yes do it. Rickashay and 4runit come to mind first as far as retrofits. SQ.MDs is awesome too.

They should be fine they've been troopers so far. If not it gives me an excuse to get some CVJ axles with high angle boots haha!! And I really was looking at an LED bar but I just cant justify it. However I do have a little scheme to HID convert all my Hella 700ffs. 55w ballasts at 5000K so they will be the same light color as my projectors. Oh and each light would give off about 5000 lumens each. :jump:

wow! How did I miss this build? It looks awesome! You have one sweet rig and some pretty awesome photos!

Very tasteful mods! I just went through your entire build thread and enjoyed it! had all these comments to share, but can't think of them by the time I get to the end.

Keep up the good work and let me know if you're ever up this way man! Love the ARB!

Oh, and just had the starter contacts replaced in mine, same issue. Starts every time now!

I'll for sure let you know. I'm still a southerner up in the mountains haha! Thanks for the compliments and those starter contacts are a serious PITA. Did you just drop it onto the front diff crossmember and work at it from around the sway bar? Thats what I did and i think i gained another joint in my arm.

I agree with farmerjon, how did I miss this one? Nice build!

This thing is a beauty, great job with the cleanliness! That CBI is very drool worthy, thank you for posting such clear closeups.

That really sucks about your Mustang. It looks extremely well kept.

You've done all of this in just 5 months? Wow, I am subscribed to see where this build will go.

Thanks! Its got nowhere near the amount of work yours has in her but I'm getting there. Maybe a 6x6 swap so I can do something original haha! As for the pics they are all taken with my Iphone 4s, every single picture on here.
The mustang was my baby for high school. She is alright now though, just trying to find her a good home. If your interested here is the only legal video I have of her here.
Unfortunately, there wont be much work done on her now that I'm in a dorm but there is a ton of planning so come december the updates will be fast and furious

 

[the great him]

im with farmerjon and COB, i totally missed this one...

you have a sweet rig, i love the TRD decals on the doors, its new and unique and i think its killer. i love the looks of the ARB with the CBI hybrid, im gonna go that route i think -you sold me on that one.

keep up the good work man!

 

[farmerjon]

I'll for sure let you know. I'm still a southerner up in the mountains haha! Thanks for the compliments and those starter contacts are a serious PITA. Did you just drop it onto the front diff crossmember and work at it from around the sway bar? Thats what I did and i think i gained another joint in my arm.

Funny story, but it finally refused to start for good at the mechanic - I was there dropping my chainsaw off for a resharpening (the mechanics' dad does a really good job for $5, has a machine, IIRC), and the 4Runner just refused to start... So I figured since it was already there, I would let them do it... Got the contacts for them for $20 at the dealer, and it took them most of a day to get it done... around $110 for labor, and $20 for parts, so $130 total. New starter altogether was $100 (no core charge) and probably would've been another $80 in labor, so I still came out ahead. Next time, I'll do it, hopefully.

Sounds like fun! I read some of the tutorials and it looked easy enough but the mechanics had trouble - took it out and put it back in.

 

[TCMach]

Thank you very much. I love the hybrid CBI it flows so well with the ARB and the tube sliders. Also I appreciate the comment on the TRD stickers. I love them but its unorthodox so I didn't know (or care too much) about how they would be received by the masses.

That's not too bad for the starter. And honestly it's not hard work. It's just a pain trying to get it to where you can work on it.

Also a minor update on my cargo box. I'm going to be working in a sub box that flows in with the rest of the box. It'll probably be on the right side so I can use that compartment that's there. Still not sure though. Been working up some CAD designs and calculating volume. Depending on how wierd it gets I might fiberglass it

 

[JWaldz]

What is that welded on tab below the swing latch for? I see it's got a bolt and nut on it. Looks like some kind of foam spacer in between, too? Is it for keeping the swing out secure or something?


Your 4Runner looks amazing. Definitely jealous of some of your goodies. Keep it up!

 

[TCMach]

<----- I have no idea why this unhappy/mad face is there

What is that welded on tab below the swing latch for? I see it's got a bolt and nut on it. Looks like some kind of foam spacer in between, too? Is it for keeping the swing out secure or something?


Your 4Runner looks amazing. Definitely jealous of some of your goodies. Keep it up!

In a nutshell yes. It's a rubber block that's bolted on to keep the swing arm where it should be. I'll try and get another picture later today showing it better. It helps keep it from vibrating and moving up and down. Also the swing arm dips a bit when it's out and without the block it doesn't line up with the hole for the bolt/handle combo. And thanks a lot. I think I'm jealous of a couple of your goodies aswell! Mainly the geared part but I want a rear locker at some time haha.

 

[JWaldz]

In a nutshell yes. It's a rubber block that's bolted on to keep the swing arm where it should be. I'll try and get another picture later today showing it better. It helps keep it from vibrating and moving up and down. Also the swing arm dips a bit when it's out and without the block it doesn't line up with the hole for the bolt/handle combo. And thanks a lot. I think I'm jealous of a couple of your goodies aswell! Mainly the geared part but I want a rear locker at some time haha.

Ahh, I think I see it now.. I'm guessing the dip is normal however I don't know how well that would be for the swivel components after a long period of time. Are they just not HD enough? I'm definitely interested in this bumper, and not saying you don't use it, but I plan to put it to full use offroad. Just making sure all the parts are gonna handle possible damage. The bumper is undoubtedly sexy but I need it to LAST if I were to get it.

 

[TCMach]

Ahh, I think I see it now.. I'm guessing the dip is normal however I don't know how well that would be for the swivel components after a long period of time. Are they just not HD enough? I'm definitely interested in this bumper, and not saying you don't use it, but I plan to put it to full use offroad. Just making sure all the parts are gonna handle possible damage. The bumper is undoubtedly sexy but I need it to LAST if I were to get it.

Oh I've seen your build thread. You go hard haha. And its not that the tip is very much or notice-able but the bolt/handle and corresponding hole it goes into has a tight tolerance. It makes it so the thing doesn't rattle at all but even a 1mm droop, which wont affect the parts long term, can make it a PITA to screw the handle in. I'll try and get a picture of that too when I get the other one for you. As far as being built to last its not gonna go anywhere. Six bolts on either frame rail, and the spindle is a good size and the action is very smooth. In my opinion it would have no problem being beat to hell. Alot of other guys on here have the full plate style instead of the hybrid and they beat them up (Brian2sun comes to mind). Like I said I'll try and get as many pics of the hardware as I can to help you make your mind up.

Here is one of the spindle from Ameining's thread.

 

[TCMach]

Here are some close ups of why that rubber block is needed and the tolerances in the bolt. Also grabbed a mounting bolt shot for good measure.

Mounting holes. There is one more bolt on the far side of the frame rail, close to where the wing support is.


Swing away droop shots. Keep in mind its a full 33" tire, steel rim, and a high lift jack. Plus the swing away itself. The first picture is not quite the same angle because the swing away is not completely parallel with the truck or else it would be on the rubber block. It looks worse than it is.



This is the swing away with the bolt/handle put through it. You can tell how exact you have to be with the placement of the swing away hole relative to the nut for the handle

 

[BigFishAllDay]

That's interesting that the swingout on your bumper sags that much. It's probably because it's about the heaviest version of the swingout that you can get... gas can carrier, full length, etc. More weight + more leverage = more sag @ the end. Plus that looks like a 60" Hi-Lift, right?

Mine doesn't sag at all, but it's 3/4 length, no can carrier, and I've got a 48" Hi-Lift on it. That little plastic part also serves to stabilize the outermost end of the swingout.

CBI forgot to include that part (surprise) when they sent me my bumper and it caused the damn swingout to jiggle just enough that it would work the latch loose on trails. I noticed the part on Ameining's thread, got CBI to send me one, and it seems to have solved the problem.

Anyway, the 4Runner looks great man. You've made a hell of a lot of progress in a short time. Great work, and I'll look forward to future updates.

 

[Bandit Runner]

This may be a dumb question, but do you have to screw in/out the handle every time you open/close the swing arm? How many turns of the handle does it take to disengage?

 

[TCMach]

That's interesting that the swingout on your bumper sags that much. It's probably because it's about the heaviest version of the swingout that you can get... gas can carrier, full length, etc. More weight + more leverage = more sag @ the end. Plus that looks like a 60" Hi-Lift, right?

Mine doesn't sag at all, but it's 3/4 length, no can carrier, and I've got a 48" Hi-Lift on it. That little plastic part also serves to stabilize the outermost end of the swingout.

CBI forgot to include that part (surprise) when they sent me my bumper and it caused the damn swingout to jiggle just enough that it would work the latch loose on trails. I noticed the part on Ameining's thread, got CBI to send me one, and it seems to have solved the problem.

Anyway, the 4Runner looks great man. You've made a hell of a lot of progress in a short time. Great work, and I'll look forward to future updates.

Thank you very much for the compliment. I'm not sure how many times I've read/looked up things in your thread but I'm sure its over 50 easily, so it means alot.
About the swing away, I think I'm going to unbolt the rubber piece and get a picture that way because it really does look pretty bad in the picture but I don't think it is because I barely put any effort into it to get it on the rubber piece.But it is probably the heaviest setup (heavier once I make a can carrier) so I can see how it would dip that far with the swing arm that long. Thanks physics. The hi lift is only a 48" BTW.

Thought I'd show off my simple CAD piece. No idea if the dimensions are right for over the wheelwell but I like the look

 

[TCMach]

This may be a dumb question, but do you have to screw in/out the handle every time you open/close the swing arm? How many turns of the handle does it take to disengage?

Yea you do. I thought it would be a pain when I first got it but its really not. And I never really count but probably 2.5 or 3 till its good and tight.

 

[JWaldz]

Thanks for the pics TCM. I'm quite surprised at the amount of sag too but like BFAD said, it's the largest of the swing outs and your extra weight adds up. I wonder if it would sag still without any load on it? I wonder if they could do a 3/4 swing with the Hybrid cus I wouldn't be interested in the can carrier and I have a 48" hi-lift as well. Might be a question for Nathan. I'm just worried cus I'll be sticking a big ass 35" tire up there and a jack as well.

 

[TCMach]

Thanks for the pics TCM. I'm quite surprised at the amount of sag too but like BFAD said, it's the largest of the swing outs and your extra weight adds up. I wonder if it would sag still without any load on it? I wonder if they could do a 3/4 swing with the Hybrid cus I wouldn't be interested in the can carrier and I have a 48" hi-lift as well. Might be a question for Nathan. I'm just worried cus I'll be sticking a big ass 35" tire up there and a jack as well.

I'm sure they could. The spindle is the same for either bumper (don't quote me on that). Only difficult part would be the location of the nut for the handle, since its a tube edge and not a plate. Without load it didn't sag at all I do remember that.

 

[JWaldz]

I'm sure they could. The spindle is the same for either bumper (don't quote me on that). Only difficult part would be the location of the nut for the handle, since its a tube edge and not a plate. Without load it didn't sag at all I do remember that.

BFAD made me see something I didn't see before which is in this picture

I didn't realize that the spindle was just on a tab like this. IMO, this is pretty weak and I am very surprised CBI was happy with it. The bottom tab needs to be a lot more heavy duty than that. Hell it looks like a standard light tab. I think it's something that needs to be addressed. A small amount of sag maybe, but you're having a good amount of sag. At such a high price tag, I'm not ok with that. If you truly wanted to get rid of the sag you'd need to find a way to gusset the tab the spindle is sitting on.

 

[TCMach]

I think most of the sag actually comes from how the swing away mounts to the spindle. There are brass rings that get press fit into the swing away and then that whole deal gets slid onto the spindle. That kind of system has to have a little play in it or else it wouldn't swing. That little bit of play extended out to the end of the swing away coupled with all the weight on the swing away makes up for the sag. I haven't noticed that tab bending at all. Also the top of the spindle is bolted to the main body of the bumper by that bracket on top.

Its worth a look though. The sag doesn't bother me (although it is like you said, enough cash it shouldnt) and like I said ill try and get another picture of it flush without the block because I don't feel like the first picture did it justice.

 

[JWaldz]

I guess you could be right about the spindle being the cause as well. Just doesn't make a whole lot of since unless they're different spindles than whats on the plated bumper. Even with a 3/4 swing arm it would sag a little if that's the problem. Next time you're back there put a small level on that tab that the spindle is on and see if it changes any when bringing the swing arm out. I still think it needs to be beefed up a little more regardless.

 

[TCMach]

I went back and looked at the picture I posted of Ameinings bumper because I couldn't figure out why you thought the tab was the problem and realized that the way the spindle attaches is totally different. I'm not sure how I missed it before. I thought the plate bumper had the same thing just welded to a plate instead of a tube like mine. It makes much more sense that that would bend rather then how it is mounted on the plate bumpers. The idea with the level seems like genius to me. Even though its not much of a sag I want to know what the weak link is and maybe think of a way to fix it. I'm not sure I can gusset it easily without interfering with the swing out but we will see.

Side by side