The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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P0171 code. No CEL. Won't run

Hey all, I've had my 99 runner for about a year and a half. 330k on the clock, supercharged with URD 7th injector system.(havent tuned it yet)

She died on me out of nowhere the other day pulling into the neighborhood. Turned a corner, lost throttle response almost completely, and wouldn't idle after about 30 seconds. I've searched all over, and can't find any situation where that code would cause a no run situation, unless its the fuel pump.
I did have a few un metered vacuum leaks, but I have fixed those and verified all other lines are ok. I'm leaning towards fuel supply issue since it won't run at all.

I have poured over a lot of the P0171 threads to no avail.

Replaced fuel filter less than a year ago.
New fuel pump installed less than a year ago.
Cleaned MAF/ installed new MAF, still no change.
02 sensors test ok on resistance.

Has anyone had this code and a no run situation? It makes it a lot more difficult to troubleshoot when she won't start. Seems like most of the "causes" of this code wouldn't keep it from running at all. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: posting here before I make a new thread.
 
Hey all, I've had my 99 runner for about a year and a half. 330k on the clock, supercharged with URD 7th injector system.(havent tuned it yet)

She died on me out of nowhere the other day pulling into the neighborhood. Turned a corner, lost throttle response almost completely, and wouldn't idle after about 30 seconds. I've searched all over, and can't find any situation where that code would cause a no run situation, unless its the fuel pump.
I did have a few un metered vacuum leaks, but I have fixed those and verified all other lines are ok. I'm leaning towards fuel supply issue since it won't run at all.

I have poured over a lot of the P0171 threads to no avail.

Replaced fuel filter less than a year ago.
New fuel pump installed less than a year ago.
Cleaned MAF/ installed new MAF, still no change.
02 sensors test ok on resistance.

Has anyone had this code and a no run situation? It makes it a lot more difficult to troubleshoot when she won't start. Seems like most of the "causes" of this code wouldn't keep it from running at all. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: posting here before I make a new thread.
If you believe it's the fuel pump (or a fuel issue in general) an easy way to verify it's a fuel problem is to have someone try to start it while you spray some carb cleaner (or similar) into the throttle body or intake tube. If it starts (or tries to start) then it's most likely a fuel issue.
 
Cooling problem just need some direction

Hey everyone, first I'll say that I'm glad this question thread was created. It's just what I was hoping for. So I am still a novice mechanic but have been able to conquer ever mechanical problem thrown at me so far. Before this 1993 four runner, I had an 02 RSX Type-S that I got to know quite intimately. All that said here's my current issue. About a week ago I started to notice a coolant leak, two days ago said leaking hose ruptured. I don't know what this hose is connecting, I can tell you that it has coolant inside of it, it is about six to eight inches long and about a half inch internal diameter. This hose is best reached by removal of the front driver side wheel. Now, I had no problems before this hose went bad. I replaced the hose only costing me two dollars at advance auto parts. I figured problem solved right? Wrong. My engine continues to overheat and I am clueless. If you have any ideas please let me know. I should also add that yes, I did top of the coolant levels with the red Asian stuff also strange is that test test drive that resulted left the little hose I replaced super hot, but the radiator was almost cool. The temperature was at the high end of the guage. Like almost to the H.
 
Hey everyone, first I'll say that I'm glad this question thread was created. It's just what I was hoping for. So I am still a novice mechanic but have been able to conquer ever mechanical problem thrown at me so far. Before this 1993 four runner, I had an 02 RSX Type-S that I got to know quite intimately. All that said here's my current issue. About a week ago I started to notice a coolant leak, two days ago said leaking hose ruptured. I don't know what this hose is connecting, I can tell you that it has coolant inside of it, it is about six to eight inches long and about a half inch internal diameter. This hose is best reached by removal of the front driver side wheel. Now, I had no problems before this hose went bad. I replaced the hose only costing me two dollars at advance auto parts. I figured problem solved right? Wrong. My engine continues to overheat and I am clueless. If you have any ideas please let me know. I should also add that yes, I did top of the coolant levels with the red Asian stuff also strange is that test test drive that resulted left the little hose I replaced super hot, but the radiator was almost cool. The temperature was at the high end of the guage. Like almost to the H.
If you have a 93 4Runner then you are in the wrong section. You have a 2nd gen and this is the 3rd gen section (96-02).

With that being said my knowledge of 2nd gen 4Runners is limited, but I'll take a stab at it. The hose you are describing sounds like it could be for the oil cooler. Did you bleed the cooling system of all the air after refilling it? I've found the best way to do that is with a lisle spill free funnel and parking with the front end up hill. Install the funnel, fill with coolant, and then start the vehicle and turn the cabin heater on. Let the vehicle get to operating temperature for a few minutes, rev the throttle a couple times, add coolant as necessary, then turn the engine off and let everything cool down before removing the funnel and closing the cooling system.

If your overheating problem persists and you aren't losing any coolant then I would be leaning towards a faulty thermostat not opening.
 
So I drive a 98 Sr5 and when I brake it likes to shake pretty aggressively. It feels like its very prominent in the front but I'm not too sure. Also the brake pedal shakes along with it. It seems to come to a stop just fine. It just shakes while doing it and I don't hear any screeching or anything audible other than the shakes. What are the possible reasons for this?

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So I drive a 98 Sr5 and when I brake it likes to shake pretty aggressively. It feels like its very prominent in the front but I'm not too sure. Also the brake pedal shakes along with it. It seems to come to a stop just fine. It just shakes while doing it and I don't hear any screeching or anything audible other than the shakes. What are the possible reasons for this?

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Warped rotors, probably. Depending on how much life is left on the pads and rotors it might be worth freshening everything up and making sure all caliper pistons are operational.

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So I drive a 98 Sr5 and when I brake it likes to shake pretty aggressively. It feels like its very prominent in the front but I'm not too sure. Also the brake pedal shakes along with it. It seems to come to a stop just fine. It just shakes while doing it and I don't hear any screeching or anything audible other than the shakes. What are the possible reasons for this?

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Like octanejunkie said it sounds a lot like warped rotors. If it’s something you want to avoid in the future there’s a really common swap people do where they use 1st gen tundra rotors and calipers to replace them instead of using 4runner stuff. They’re a larger diameter and a lot thicker so they’re much less prone to warping, and are a bolt on replacement as well. They fit most 16” wheels and there’s a ton of threads on this forums that go over it if you’re looking into doing it. I did it on mine a few years ago and couldn’t recommend it more.


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Suspension - front & rear

What is the best option for one's front & rear suspension, ex: springs / socks ? If you want to keep it stock height, not lift
 
What is the best option for one's front & rear suspension, ex: springs / socks ? If you want to keep it stock height, not lift

Best... at What? And for what budget? What year "stock height"? (It changed by about 2" through the years). Custom Penske coil-overs at all 4 corners will provide the best damping/spring control... at about $6000 (if not more). But I'd put that setup against ANY other option.

Most people looking for "stock-like on a budget" run Bilstein 4600 or 5100's with stock springs if they measure out okay, or stock length aftermarkets if not.
 
Hello, I have a 1997 limited and I'm having issues with the rear right wheel bearing. This job started with me getting a alignment done and the shop could not because I had play in the Right Rear Bearing.

I changed the rear axle seals, bearings, ABS "gear" but my back right wheel bearing still has play when pushing on the 12 and 6 o clock position. I cannot for the life of me figure out why the only thing I can think of is something with the rear diff. The left side is fine but the right still has play.

Out of desperation to be able to drive the 4runner I went to a junk yard and was going to grab the whole axle and assembly but before i did check the rear wheel bearing and it had play too than I check the back left and it was zero play. So is it a common issue or normal. Any help please
 
Hello, I have a 1997 limited and I'm having issues with the rear right wheel bearing. This job started with me getting a alignment done and the shop could not because I had play in the Right Rear Bearing.



I changed the rear axle seals, bearings, ABS "gear" but my back right wheel bearing still has play when pushing on the 12 and 6 o clock position. I cannot for the life of me figure out why the only thing I can think of is something with the rear diff. The left side is fine but the right still has play.



Out of desperation to be able to drive the 4runner I went to a junk yard and was going to grab the whole axle and assembly but before i did check the rear wheel bearing and it had play too than I check the back left and it was zero play. So is it a common issue or normal. Any help please

I guess the question is now much play?

Check this thread as a reference
Rear Axle Seals: The Ultimate Information and Replacement Thread (3rd gen) - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

I'm not sure how any play in the rear right wheel is preventing a front alignment from happening.

I doubt your 3rd member (rear diff) is involved if it drives with no noise or excessive slop (pending failure)

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Like octanejunkie said it sounds a lot like warped rotors. If it’s something you want to avoid in the future there’s a really common swap people do where they use 1st gen tundra rotors and calipers to replace them instead of using 4runner stuff. They’re a larger diameter and a lot thicker so they’re much less prone to warping, and are a bolt on replacement as well. They fit most 16” wheels and there’s a ton of threads on this forums that go over it if you’re looking into doing it. I did it on mine a few years ago and couldn’t recommend it more.


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Thank you for replying! When I'm in a good spot to make some changes to the 4runner I'll be sure to look into that. I'm trying to learn all I can. I want this thing to run til the end of time haha

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I have another brake related question which involves the drums on the rear. Is it worth it swapping them out for disc brakes?

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I have another brake related question which involves the drums on the rear. Is it worth it swapping them out for disc brakes?

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General rule of thumb:

Until you have identified a Specific problem that would be resolved by a change, it's not worth making a change.

Meaning that until you can identify a problem with the rear drums that can only be overcome by swapping to discs, it's not worth it. This idea will save you countless hundreds of thousands of dollars and a substantial portion of your life if you apply it consistently. From personal experience, modifying something has rarely turned out to be a good use of my money and never a good use of my time... and I've been doing this since the early 90's. Works for cars, motorcycles, boats, houses, electronics, etc...

BTW, read up on the TBU (tundra brake upgrade), there are a lot of people who've developed soft brake pedal feel and it's driving most of those folks batty trying to track down the problem. Meanwhile, so long as you aren't abusing the stock brakes (heavy loads, late and heavy braking), the stock components are just fine. WAY more people in the world with stock components than a TBU....

Just saying, do the work and come to your own conclusion as to what's right and what's wrong for you.
 
5-wheel tire rotation with unmatched spare

This may be an odd one. At least I'm having trouble finding related info. I recently bought a '99 4runner limited with a set of Pro Comp 17s. I wanted a full size spare, but couldnt find the exact same wheels. They seemed to have an updated, very similar design (same offset). I am wondering if there would be any issue rotating this tire with the original set. The tire tread depth is within 2-3/32s. Being a bit analytical, I weighed them and the new wheel design with tire mounted is 6-7 lbs heavier (approx. 102 vs 95). Could this cause any issues?

I included images of the wheels. The older design has the larger center cap.
 

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Anyone have their Toytec springs on the 3rd perch of their Tundra 5100s? I'm curious what the hub-to-fender measurement is and how stiff it rides
I know there's way more than a couple of us using this set up yet finding posts on it seem to be a challenge, and 99% of those who have posted are using the 2nd clip setting :frusty:
 
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