The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[octanejunkie]

Anyone have their Toytec springs on the 3rd perch of their Tundra 5100s? I'm curious what the hub-to-fender measurement is and how stiff it rides
I know there's way more than a couple of us using this set up yet finding posts on it seem to be a challenge, and 99% of those who have posted are using the 2nd clip setting :frusty:

I have 650# "Toytec" springs that clearly say Eibach on the coils mounted on Tundra 5100s, currently on second notch

My plan was to switch them to 3rd notch after winch install but I didn't expect much lift, more of a firmer ride. Unfortunately but I have a set of Icons 2.5s I plan on swapping in so I doubt the experiment will happen...

Sorry sir

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[Bad Luck]

This may be an odd one. At least I'm having trouble finding related info. I recently bought a '99 4runner limited with a set of Pro Comp 17s. I wanted a full size spare, but couldnt find the exact same wheels. They seemed to have an updated, very similar design (same offset). I am wondering if there would be any issue rotating this tire with the original set. The tire tread depth is within 2-3/32s. Being a bit analytical, I weighed them and the new wheel design with tire mounted is 6-7 lbs heavier (approx. 102 vs 95). Could this cause any issues?

I included images of the wheels. The older design has the larger center cap.

I don't foresee any issues with the mismatched weight or tread depth. Tread depth difference is close enough to not cause problems. I'd put the tires with the most tread on the front to try to wear them down faster and even everything out.

 

[wmanto1n]

Frame help

Just purchased a 2001 TFR SR5 sport. Super clean truck but have a giant spot on the frame that I need worked on. I’ve called every auto body shop in the area, no one will touch the truck. It’s rotted out about 10 inch section on the rear drivers side just before the axel. I have no welding experience. The last auto body guy told me to grab a welder from harbor freight lol. Anyone out there in Ohio that works on these? I love this truck want to make it safe! Thanks!

 

[octanejunkie]

Just purchased a 2001 TFR SR5 sport. Super clean truck but have a giant spot on the frame that I need worked on. I’ve called every auto body shop in the area, no one will touch the truck. It’s rotted out about 10 inch section on the rear drivers side just before the axel. I have no welding experience. The last auto body guy told me to grab a welder from harbor freight lol. Anyone out there in Ohio that works on these? I love this truck want to make it safe! Thanks!

That's not an easy project for a first time welder with hobby welding gear. The damage is extensive.

You are going to want to cut that entire section of the frame out and weld a donor section in, which is not a shade tree project. You'd be better off with a frame swap.

Did you not know about this area when you purchased the truck?

Ps. Is this a troll post?

 

[Nathan97Limmited]

Thanks for the Reply! Its a pretty small amount of play but still noticeable. with 265/75R16 on its about 1/8 of a inch to 1/4 inch

 

[wmanto1n]

That's not an easy project for a first time welder with hobby welding gear. The damage is extensive.

You are going to want to cut that entire section of the frame out and weld a donor section in, which is not a shade tree project. You'd be better off with a frame swap.

Did you not know about this area when you purchased the truck?

Ps. Is this a troll post?

It’s not a troll post, yeah I knew about it before, I paid 1500 for the car so it was understood. I’ve just seen a lot of other 4 runners online that have been repaired with less damage. I bought a pre fab piece from a website that is going to try and get someone to weld on for me, appreciate the info though.

 

[octanejunkie]

It’s not a troll post, yeah I knew about it before, I paid 1500 for the car so it was understood. I’ve just seen a lot of other 4 runners online that have been repaired with less damage. I bought a pre fab piece from a website that is going to try and get someone to weld on for me, appreciate the info though.

The reason no professional will touch it is because you can't safely patch a single spot when everything around it looks like that - it's a potential time bomb

Ask [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

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[stompbox1791]

Hey all,

1996 4Runner with 3.4. 275K miles. A/C hasn't been cold for a while. So I took it into the shop yesterday. My mechanic said it was low on refrigerant. So he fixed that.

Driving away from his shop, I had cold blowing air for about 20 minutes. then it started blowing warm. This was at 20 to 40mph.

This happened last summer when I had it evacuated and refilled. It blows cold for a while, then will only blow warm. The next week I start it, it may work all day. No rhyme or reason.

Looking for advice on how to diagnose

 

[wmanto1n]

The reason no professional will touch it is because you can't safely patch a single spot when everything around it looks like that - it's a potential time bomb

Ask [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

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Here’s the view from the wheel well. So your saying even if I grind it down on this side, put a prefab piece on, none of it will be good? I appreciate the reply and feedback. Honestly just bought it thinking I could get someone to easily repair this piece. The rest of the frame is really good shape. I will look into trying to see if I can get that section of frame from another 4 runner. Thanks

 

[octanejunkie]

Hey all,



1996 4Runner with 3.4. 275K miles. A/C hasn't been cold for a while. So I took it into the shop yesterday. My mechanic said it was low on refrigerant. So he fixed that.



Driving away from his shop, I had cold blowing air for about 20 minutes. then it started blowing warm. This was at 20 to 40mph.



This happened last summer when I had it evacuated and refilled. It blows cold for a while, then will only blow warm. The next week I start it, it may work all day. No rhyme or reason.



Looking for advice on how to diagnose

There's most likely a leak in the AC and the refrigerant is escaping. If he didn't do a vacuum test on the AC system by first recovering all the coolant and then vacuum charging it to see if it holds pressure for about 10-20 minutes then he didn't do it right. Find an auto AC shop..

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[Brian.]

It’s not a troll post, yeah I knew about it before, I paid 1500 for the car so it was understood. I’ve just seen a lot of other 4 runners online that have been repaired with less damage. I bought a pre fab piece from a website that is going to try and get someone to weld on for me, appreciate the info though.

I'm in the frame-swap camp. You still need specialty tools to make it happen quickly (like, a lift), but you will be MUCH more likely to find help in doing this because it's not a massive liability.

On the other hand, there's no time like the present to learn welding. MIG is pretty simple to pick up and anything you do now, if it doesn't past muster tomorrow, can be redone. I suspect that trying to find clean metal to weld to is going to be the major struggle... and doing that while on your back under the vehicle... lets just say I'm glad it's you and not me.

 

[wmanto1n]

I'm in the frame-swap camp. You still need specialty tools to make it happen quickly (like, a lift), but you will be MUCH more likely to find help in doing this because it's not a massive liability.

On the other hand, there's no time like the present to learn welding. MIG is pretty simple to pick up and anything you do now, if it doesn't past muster tomorrow, can be redone. I suspect that trying to find clean metal to weld to is going to be the major struggle... and doing that while on your back under the vehicle... lets just say I'm glad it's you and not me.

Isn’t a total frame swap like 6 grand though? Maybe more?

 

[octanejunkie]

Isn’t a total frame swap like 6 grand though? Maybe more?

Depends who does it and how much you pick up a frame for...

For $1,500 it's a parts truck with a rotten frame that's super risky to drive. If all of the major components are in good shape, including the interior, you can easily make your money back parting it out or swapping those parts over to another vehicle that needs what you have.

 

[brillo_76]

The reason no professional will touch it is because you can't safely patch a single spot when everything around it looks like that - it's a potential time bomb

Ask [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION]

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I see I get the rot posts... Ok... I reply to the member...

 

[brillo_76]

Here’s the view from the wheel well. So your saying even if I grind it down on this side, put a prefab piece on, none of it will be good? I appreciate the reply and feedback. Honestly just bought it thinking I could get someone to easily repair this piece. The rest of the frame is really good shape. I will look into trying to see if I can get that section of frame from another 4 runner. Thanks

I personally have fixed worse. That is right near the rear arch and how I would fix that is to super clean out that inside frame. I would cut weld holes in the side of the frames and I would weld 1/8 plate on both the sides of the inside of the frame. then weld a new bottom on the rail.

These weld holes are very important and I mostly do it with a plasma cutter. You can do it with cutting wheels as I have done that before.

I even have drilled holes and bolted the plates in place to hold them firmly against the inner frame wells.. Then after I get them welded in then weld the holes shut .

Then I would use any anti rust solutions paint etc over the welds as they will rust extremely quickly from the heating up of the metal.


You can see how I have done some of these fixes in my build thread as I am known for rebuilding rotted out frames for the DIY on the 3rd gens in the rust belt.

I believe in welding the plates on the inside of the frames. So basically, you have 3 pieces of new steel making a U inside your frame with new metal if you are understanding my method.


If you need ideas or thoughts. You can ask on my build thread or if your able to yet. Send me PM until you can do your build thread.

Hope this helps you out..

 

[wmanto1n]

I'm in the frame-swap camp. You still need specialty tools to make it happen quickly (like, a lift), but you will be MUCH more likely to find help in doing this because it's not a massive liability.

On the other hand, there's no time like the present to learn welding. MIG is pretty simple to pick up and anything you do now, if it doesn't past muster tomorrow, can be redone. I suspect that trying to find clean metal to weld to is going to be the major struggle... and doing that while on your back under the vehicle... lets just say I'm glad it's you and not me.

Isn’t a total frame swap like 6 grand though? Maybe more?

I personally have fixed worse. That is right near the rear arch and how I would fix that is to super clean out that inside frame. I would cut weld holes in the side of the frames and I would weld 1/8 plate on both the sides of the inside of the frame. then weld a new bottom on the rail.

These weld holes are very important and I mostly do it with a plasma cutter. You can do it with cutting wheels as I have done that before.

I even have drilled holes and bolted the plates in place to hold them firmly against the inner frame wells.. Then after I get them welded in then weld the holes shut .

Then I would use any anti rust solutions paint etc over the welds as they will rust extremely quickly from the heating up of the metal.


You can see how I have done some of these fixes in my build thread as I am known for rebuilding rotted out frames for the DIY on the 3rd gens in the rust belt.

I believe in welding the plates on the inside of the frames. So basically, you have 3 pieces of new steel making a U inside your frame with new metal if you are understanding my method.


If you need ideas or thoughts. You can ask on my build thread or if your able to yet. Send me PM until you can do your build thread.

Hope this helps you out..

Thanks so much, it helps to hear some encouragement, have you ever used the Safe T Cap system? It’s a pre fab cap you put over the frame. I really hope I can save the truck it’s so fun to drive . Again thanks for the advice!

 

[brillo_76]

Thanks so much, it helps to hear some encouragement, have you ever used the Safe T Cap system? It’s a pre fab cap you put over the frame. I really hope I can save the truck it’s so fun to drive . Again thanks for the advice!

Yes. I have seen the safe T Cap system. They don't believe in cleaning out the frames which is how these frames rot out. So if you don't do anything inside the frame... Its still rotting from the inside out.

Thus why I suggest cleaning the frame out. With your frame bottom completely rotted most junk fell out.

So if you wish to go with a safe T cap system. You can just clean out and coat the inside of the frame then weld the safe T Cap over that.

I just suggested how i do it. I can always replace a frame body mount. As I have good metal inside to weld to.

You are going to have several areas that are really thin on this 4 runner frame. So the cleaner you can get the inside of the frame with good anti rust solutions on that steel on the inside.. The slower it will rot from the inside out.

So whatever works for you is whats best for your rig..

 

[Brian.]

Thanks so much, it helps to hear some encouragement, have you ever used the Safe T Cap system? It’s a pre fab cap you put over the frame. I really hope I can save the truck it’s so fun to drive . Again thanks for the advice!

The Safe-T-Cap system is something fast and easy to produce once the dies have been made. It may also not fully address the rust area (meaning, you might not get to the point of having clean metal to weld it to). Such is the way with "one size fits most" applications. For the right situation, it's perfectly fine... I'm just not certain that yours is the right situation.

No reason it can't be used, but you might Also have to do some internal bracing. You absolutely MUST do all the rust mitigation prep if you want this repair to last any length of time (no matter which repair method you choose... well, it'll be a lot less if you pick up a better frame, but then you have other work that needs be done).

 

[brillo_76]

Whats the cost for completely rust free frames these days?

 

[octanejunkie]

Whats the cost for completely rust free frames these days?

Depends where you get it

Here's one on FB for $1,300

I've seen them advertised for $4,500-$6K from wrecking yards