The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Toya!]

Well, what have you done?

Under what kind of driving conditions does the CEL come on, and then go away by itself?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Sorry for being a terrible member, forgot I posted this after I gave up trying to replace a fuel pump on Sunday

But I have slowly been working on the FSM P0172 areas. I will say I got the vehicle with a P0141 code or o2 sensor code and replaced both which is what then got me the P0172. I replaced the MAF, O2 sensors, Injectors on Bank 1, Coolant temp sensor, and am currently trying to replace the fuel pump.

Like stated in the post, it comes and goes under normal driving conditions. When the code goes away it idles and drives no problem, with slight trouble on startup (usually have to give it some gas to help it start). But when the CEL comes back it has a horrible idle and seems to want to stall on reverse. It is an automatic so not sure why it is doing this..

 

[toy0da]

I got 32s because I was planning on leaving the suspension stock. Now that I realize how cheap the suspension is, I am considering lifting it.

The truck will not need lifting because it will not be a crawler. But I do want it to be cooler

Should I lift it? I know that is a subjective question, but what I'm really looking for is pros and cons, especially for a 2wd that will not be a crawler. MPGs, general DD ability/affect, etc. Also, if I do end up lifting it, should I get 33s? Why or why not?

Thanks.

 

[4R-User]

I hope someone could help me out with this problem.

Startup/running is rough for the first few minutes when there is significant humidity/fog,
This indicates moisture is impacting the connections/ignition.
I sprayed the ignition coil connectors (wiring harness side) and the coil connectors (ignition coil side) with electrical contact cleaner and it fixes the problem for a month, then the problem returns.
The problem is that the ignition coil connector (wiring harness side) has cracks in the soft rubberized connector part (that keeps out moisture) - this needs to be replaced and I cannot locate the part number in my reference material.

Anyone have the part number for the replacement connector or have an alternative option for replacement?
Thanks again everyone!

 

[connorms]

Kind of a stupid question, but I'm planning on setting up an auxiliary fuse panel in my engine bay soon, and am in the process of planning everything out right now. I have the Big 3 mod done, and I'm mainly looking to clean up all of my wiring and have some questions about circuit breakers. I was talking about my plans for it with a coworker and he brought up some points that make sense to me, but I don't know enough about electrical to know if it's a good idea or not.

So I was planning on using this fuse block that has two separate circuits, and I was going to set it up with one having constant power and one having switched. If I went this route, I was planning on running each power wire through a 50A circuit breaker, since the fuse panel is rated for 100A. Then I'd need a 120A circuit breaker for my power cable between my alternator and battery, and another for my amp/subwoofer setup. I didn't really want to have to run 4 different circuit breakers, especially when space is tight already, so I guess this is where my question comes in. My coworker said that I don't have to run a circuit breaker between my battery and my fuse panel, as long as the fuses in the panel don't allow the total draw to be over 100A. He said if I use 2 or 4ga wire for the main power wire, which according to 12voltguy's chart, either should easily be able to carry 100A without getting melty (or could I go even smaller if I'm running 50A to each circuit?). This makes sense to me since any connection drawing power would be fused anyways, and as long as I'm careful with it to not exceed 100A total it makes sense that the cable wouldn't fry. But like I said earlier, I don't know electrical stuff well enough to know if that makes sense, so any advice is appreciated!

 

[BretMann]

Lost newb needs help posting.

Although I've participated in forums for years, I just joined this one and am already lost. I just want to post a new thread to ask a question but I tried the new thread button and it says I can't. I'm allowed to reply though, I think. Odd.

How do I post my question regarding my 3rd gen 4Runner?

Thanks.

 

[octanejunkie]

Kind of a stupid question, but I'm planning on setting up an auxiliary fuse panel in my engine bay soon, and am in the process of planning everything out right now. I have the Big 3 mod done, and I'm mainly looking to clean up all of my wiring and have some questions about circuit breakers. I was talking about my plans for it with a coworker and he brought up some points that make sense to me, but I don't know enough about electrical to know if it's a good idea or not.



So I was planning on using this fuse block that has two separate circuits, and I was going to set it up with one having constant power and one having switched. If I went this route, I was planning on running each power wire through a 50A circuit breaker, since the fuse panel is rated for 100A. Then I'd need a 120A circuit breaker for my power cable between my alternator and battery, and another for my amp/subwoofer setup. I didn't really want to have to run 4 different circuit breakers, especially when space is tight already, so I guess this is where my question comes in. My coworker said that I don't have to run a circuit breaker between my battery and my fuse panel, as long as the fuses in the panel don't allow the total draw to be over 100A. He said if I use 2 or 4ga wire for the main power wire, which according to 12voltguy's chart, either should easily be able to carry 100A without getting melty (or could I go even smaller if I'm running 50A to each circuit?). This makes sense to me since any connection drawing power would be fused anyways, and as long as I'm careful with it to not exceed 100A total it makes sense that the cable wouldn't fry. But like I said earlier, I don't know electrical stuff well enough to know if that makes sense, so any advice is appreciated!

A self resetting circuit breaker inline wouldn't suck. Calculate the gauge cable to feed the block based on amps * distance, either 8 ga or 4 ga, most likely if contained within the engine bay.

That fuse block is a single circuit, btw

Also, if any of the circuits you are going to create need relays, like lights, amps or subwoofers, you might want to consider fused relay blocks, like this Nilight 6 Gang Switch Panel Car Circuit Control Relay System with Fuse and Wiring Harness https://a.co/d/cfP1KD7

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

Although I've participated in forums for years, I just joined this one and am already lost. I just want to post a new thread to ask a question but I tried the new thread button and it says I can't. I'm allowed to reply though, I think. Odd.

How do I post my question regarding my 3rd gen 4Runner?

Thanks.

Ask it here. That's the purpose of this thread. You can't start a new thread until you have 15 posts or somewhere around there, but please don't spam threads to get your post count up.

 

[connorms]

Although I've participated in forums for years, I just joined this one and am already lost. I just want to post a new thread to ask a question but I tried the new thread button and it says I can't. I'm allowed to reply though, I think. Odd.

How do I post my question regarding my 3rd gen 4Runner?

Thanks.

There's a post requirement before you make a new thread to prevent spam & people making a ton of threads asking the same question. I think it's something like 10 or 15 posts. There's a thread for new members so you can always post some replies on there until you reach the requirements. I had to go through the same thing and it's kind of annoying to do but it seems to help a lot against spam :shrug:

 

[connorms]

A self resetting circuit breaker inline wouldn't suck. Calculate the gauge cable to feed the block based on amps * distance, either 8 ga or 4 ga, most likely if contained within the engine bay.

That fuse block is a single circuit, btw

Also, if any of the circuits you are going to create need relays, like lights, amps or subwoofers, you might want to consider fused relay blocks, like this Nilight 6 Gang Switch Panel Car Circuit Control Relay System with Fuse and Wiring Harness https://a.co/d/cfP1KD7

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Oops haha posted the wrong one. I meant to link this one, which from what I can tell it looks like it's got 6 fuses on each circuit. But do you think it's worth taking the extra safety measure of having the circuit breaker? I figured (as long as I have the correct gauge wire) if I put it in it would just take up unnecessary space and complicate things further, especially if I have it set up to where individual fuses would start blowing before it gets close to 100A? I'd much rather deal with a cluttered fuse panel than an electrical fire, but also if it's completely redundant I would rather save the money and space. Also good idea with that relay kit, looks like a great deal

 

[Keifers]

Autozone suggested repairs are the only thing more worthless at fixing a vehicle than the autozone employees themselves. P0451 code is either a problem with the vapor pressure sensor or the wiring for the vapor pressure sensor. In extremely rare cases it could be the ecm as well but very rare cases.

Like I said, I tested the wiring harness and it was in acceptable ranges - went ahead and grabbed a new OEM sensor off ebay for about $85.

 

[BretMann]

Thanks badluck & connorms. I get it but 15 times seems a bit much. I wasted a lot of time hunting around for an answer until thought to just ask within a random post. Maybe I missed it but I don't remember seeing a "Welcome" statement mentioning new members have to do that, so I think it would be good to add one.

Well, I guess I could just yabber away here or try to post some helpful replies to other questions - I guess they all count towards the required 15 anyway.

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks badluck & connorms. I get it but 15 times seems a bit much. I wasted a lot of time hunting around for an answer until thought to just ask within a random post. Maybe I missed it but I don't remember seeing a "Welcome" statement mentioning new members have to do that, so I think it would be good to add one.



Well, I guess I could just yabber away here or try to post some helpful replies to other questions - I guess they all count towards the required 15 anyway.

For all new members, you can say hi here, please dont litter other threadsa

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks badluck & connorms. I get it but 15 times seems a bit much. I wasted a lot of time hunting around for an answer until thought to just ask within a random post. Maybe I missed it but I don't remember seeing a "Welcome" statement mentioning new members have to do that, so I think it would be good to add one.

Well, I guess I could just yabber away here or try to post some helpful replies to other questions - I guess they all count towards the required 15 anyway.

Or you could just ask it here…

 

[Devbot]

Anyone use Dobinsons 675v and can compare them to the 210v coils? Debating switching it up next year. Some say they're shorter, some say they're the same, some retailers will give two different measurements...

 

[4R-User]

There's a post requirement before you make a new thread to prevent spam & people making a ton of threads asking the same question. I think it's something like 10 or 15 posts. There's a thread for new members so you can always post some replies on there until you reach the requirements. I had to go through the same thing and it's kind of annoying to do but it seems to help a lot against spam :shrug:

I understand the problem with spam, however it does impede those with legitimate questions.

Not to spam, but I hope someone could help me with this question that I previously posted regarding ignition coil wiring harness connector boots.

Thanks to everyone!

 

[Bad Luck]

I understand the problem with spam, however it does impede those with legitimate questions.

Not to spam, but I hope someone could help me with this question that I previously posted regarding ignition coil wiring harness connector boots.

Thanks to everyone!

We will need to know the year and engine of your 4Runner to help

 

[Skulking]

I understand the problem with spam, however it does impede those with legitimate questions.

Not to spam, but I hope someone could help me with this question that I previously posted regarding ignition coil wiring harness connector boots.

Thanks to everyone!

I'd put your full question again along with your model year and engine. It may also be helpful to post a picture as I am struggling to understand what exactly you are trying to find.

 

[octanejunkie]

I hope someone could help me out with this problem.

Startup/running is rough for the first few minutes when there is significant humidity/fog,
This indicates moisture is impacting the connections/ignition.
I sprayed the ignition coil connectors (wiring harness side) and the coil connectors (ignition coil side) with electrical contact cleaner and it fixes the problem for a month, then the problem returns.
The problem is that the ignition coil connector (wiring harness side) has cracks in the soft rubberized connector part (that keeps out moisture) - this needs to be replaced and I cannot locate the part number in my reference material.

Anyone have the part number for the replacement connector or have an alternative option for replacement?
Thanks again everyone!

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[4R-User]

We will need to know the year and engine of your 4Runner to help

Fair enough

Startup/running is rough for the first few minutes when there is significant humidity/fog; this indicates moisture is impacting the connections/ignition.
I sprayed the ignition coil connectors (wiring harness side) and the coil connectors (ignition coil side) with electrical contact cleaner and it fixes the problem for a month, then the problem returns.


The problem is that the ignition coil connector (wiring harness side) has cracks in the soft rubberized connector part (that keeps out moisture) - this needs to be replaced and I cannot locate the part number in my reference material.


Anyone have the part number for the replacement connectors or have an alternative option for replacement?
Thanks again everyone!

1997 4Runner SR5 4WD Automatic 3.4L

 

[Bad Luck]

Fair enough

Startup/running is rough for the first few minutes when there is significant humidity/fog; this indicates moisture is impacting the connections/ignition.
I sprayed the ignition coil connectors (wiring harness side) and the coil connectors (ignition coil side) with electrical contact cleaner and it fixes the problem for a month, then the problem returns.


The problem is that the ignition coil connector (wiring harness side) has cracks in the soft rubberized connector part (that keeps out moisture) - this needs to be replaced and I cannot locate the part number in my reference material.


Anyone have the part number for the replacement connectors or have an alternative option for replacement?
Thanks again everyone!

1997 4Runner SR5 4WD Automatic 3.4L

I don't have an EWD for a 97 and the connectors are different from my 2000. What about filling the connector with silicone where the weather seal is?