TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[TonyB66]

No bueno.

Sunroof open?
Got AAA?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1edcML2o5E

ps., always make a spare key.

If research is correct, the rear side windows are the easiest to install, so...

Or, the sun/moon roof, as I am no fan of that anyways and even recently asked about a template for such in another thread...

Well, I'm in, with no repairs needed. The local Toyota dealership in Gilroy, CA helped. They wanted the VIN and DMV paperwork, which I don't have yet though. But, they accepted my sales paperwork though, thankfully. For 25 bucks they made me a key. So, I now have my spare key, the most expensive one I ever paid for, but all things considered....

The worst part, my work laptop was locked in there the whole time (was monitoring emails while I put those license plate bulbs in. Damn stressful.

Now on my growing list is to learn why the car auto-locked when I had the rear hatch open, and to understand the security system too.

Oh, getting those little license plate bulbs out can be tough. I got one with the my fingers, but the other required some ingenuity. Electrical tape around the bulb, then pull! I have some padded spark plug pullers or something like here, somewhere, but could not find...

Thanks.

 

[TonyB66]

Hmmm...

When I attempted to insert the key into this keyhole, it was not fixed and moved backwards and down quite a bit. Easy fix?

The rear turn signal LEDs are too long! Need to be almost 1/2" shorter. Drat. The other two bulbs in there are the same length, but the turn signal cavity is much more shallow...

 

[octanejunkie]

Nope, key drop is a PITA, but once you remove the bezel, epoxying it should be a permanent fix.

Lot's of threads on the subject - I've done two of them so far... bezel fixes, not threads Lol

 

[TonyB66]

Nope, key drop is a PITA, but once you remove the bezel, epoxying it should be a permanent fix.

Lot's of threads on the subject - I've done two of them so far... bezel fixes, not threads Lol

Not what I wanted to hear, but doesn't sound all that bad. Some J-Weld to the rescue, likely overkill though... I will paint the bezel anyways, along with the flares and cladding, probably next spring.

And, the front turns signal cavities are the exact same depth as the rears - so, those LEDs won't work there either. So.... need to return all four. They are 2.4" long. I just ordered four others, 1.75" in length, which should to the trick.

Instead of going with resistors, I'm trying this, which arrived today:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAU66V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe that relay location is under the steering wheel, left side...

 

[octanejunkie]

Not what I wanted to hear, but doesn't sound all that bad. Some J-Weld to the rescue, likely overkill though... I will paint the bezel anyways, along with the flares and cladding, probably next spring.

And, the front turns signal cavities are the exact same depth as the rears - so, those LEDs won't work there either. So.... need to return all four. They are 2.4" long. I just ordered four others, 1.75" in length, which should to the trick.

Instead of going with resistors, I'm trying this, which arrived today:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAU66V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe that relay location is under the steering wheel, left side...

I used a 5-min, 2-part epoxy. The trick to removing the bezel is lowering the rear window about 2" at one point during the uninstall to make access to the nuts easier. Painting the bezel is easy, whether you paint the rubber gasket around the outside is up to you - removing it and gluing it back on is a PITA

I haven't changed the flasher bulbs to LED, so I'll wait to see how that flasher works for you, lol. The resistor becomes key when you do the 3rd brake light, from what I've read, as this circuit is shared with [I forget what other system] and the voltage drop/consumption is required for proper operation.

 

[TonyB66]

I used a 5-min, 2-part epoxy. The trick to removing the bezel is lowering the rear window about 2" at one point during the uninstall to make access to the nuts easier. Painting the bezel is easy, whether you paint the rubber gasket around the outside is up to you - removing it and gluing it back on is a PITA

I haven't changed the flasher bulbs to LED, so I'll wait to see how that flasher works for you, lol. The resistor becomes key when you do the 3rd brake light, from what I've read, as this circuit is shared with [I forget what other system] and the voltage drop/consumption is required for proper operation.

I do have an LED for the third brake light installed already. All exterior lighting should be LED by this weekend, minus the headlamps and fogs, which I will address later. I believe the 3rd brake light, all of the brake lights, work fine, at this time at least. We'll see once the LED turn signals are installed, with the relay. Without the relay, using those LEDs that were too long, they do indeed hyper-flash. The shorter ones come tomorrow...

On that bezel, sounds like a PTA alright. Is there a "bezel delete" thread, possibly? Remove, thin piece of sheet metal in it's place, hole for the lock... Will have an aftermkt rear bumper at some point, relocation of the license plate, it's lighting, etc...

 

[TonyB66]

Mike or anyone else who cares, this relay replacement for 10 bucks did the trick. No more hyper-flash, no issues with the 3rd brake lights...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAU66V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Takes a little persuasion to get access to that relay, at least for me who has zero experience on a 4Runner...

I will start reading-up on headlight upgrade options. Open to suggestions!

Will do the map lights next, then get back to the house...

 

[octanejunkie]

Mike or anyone else who cares, this relay replacement for 10 bucks did the trick. No more hyper-flash, no issues with the 3rd brake lights...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAU66V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Takes a little persuasion to get access to that relay, at least for me who has zero experience on a 4Runner...

Haha, well alright!

I will start reading-up on headlight upgrade options. Open to suggestions

Retrofit projectors with halos and soon, in my near future, probably, demon eyes see pics 4 and 5 by [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] he was instrumental my projector project (whether he knows it or not) although I did'nt use Morimoto, I went budgety

 

[TonyB66]

Haha, well alright!



Retrofit projectors with halos and soon, in my near future, probably, demon eyes see pics 4 and 5 by [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] he was instrumental my projector project (whether he knows it or not) although I did'nt use Morimoto, I went budgety

Just got home from taking the 4Runner on its longest journey with us, which is not saying much, about 40 miles roundtrip. I had added a tad more Seafoam into the oil, so I don't want to put too many miles on it...

Damn ABS light is on! I'll search here in a bit, but hopefully nothing to be concerned about?

Indeed, the lights work great. I think the relay is the way to go. I will do the front running lights / side markers tomorrow morning.

Mike thanks for the headlight info. Retrofit projectors, halos and demon eyes are all new to me. Damn, more reading... Thanks!

And, if my ignorance there is noteworthy, it's even more so with today's stereo, and other vehicle gadget options. Plan to do much reading there too. If I may ask here now though, is there a double DIN unit that can serve as a GPS, backup camera display as well as stereo of course? If so, I'll highly consider going that route. Otherwise, I'll for sure go single DIN, and use the other spot for my ham radio...

 

[octanejunkie]

is there a double DIN unit that can serve as a GPS, backup camera display as well as stereo of course? If so, I'll highly consider going that route. Otherwise, I'll for sure go single DIN, and use the other spot for my ham radio...

Yes, look at any modern double din from Pioneer, Alpine, etc. They all have these functions, and more. Some are iPhone friendly, some Android, some agnostic. Any stereo in the $200+ price class will have the features you mentioned, although given the location of the stereo socket, looking down there to backup isn't my first choice. YMMV

 

[TonyB66]

Yes, look at any modern double din from Pioneer, Alpine, etc. They all have these functions, and more. Some are iPhone friendly, some Android, some agnostic. Any stereo in the $200+ price class will have the features you mentioned, although given the location of the stereo socket, looking down there to backup isn't my first choice. YMMV

Great to hear. Sort of figured such, but I really wasn't sure.

To your point on the low location of the stereo. Might it be possible or feasible to move the climate controls downward, to the bottom, and a double DIN on top? Maybe a PITA...

 

[BrianSD_42]

[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION]

Thanks for the mention and glad to be of help. My experience with angle eyes halos inside the shroud is that it's a huge PIA and only worth it if you've got a lot of spare time to sit around and mess with the fitment. I love mine but I wouldn't try to retrofit them for a friend or stranger. The Halos are also likely enough to break over the years and then you'll need to open the light up again.

Haha, well alright!

Retrofit projectors with halos and soon, in my near future, probably, demon eyes see pics 4 and 5 by [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] he was instrumental my projector project (whether he knows it or not) although I did'nt use Morimoto, I went budgety

 

[TonyB66]

[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION]

Thanks for the mention and glad to be of help. My experience with angle eyes halos inside the shroud is that it's a huge PIA and only worth it if you've got a lot of spare time to sit around and mess with the fitment. I love mine but I wouldn't try to retrofit them for a friend or stranger. The Halos are also likely enough to break over the years and then you'll need to open the light up again.

Brian, thanks for chiming-in. Between me not having a lot of spare time, actually not a lot of time at all; and the breakage concern you mention, as super cool as these look, I'll need to pass.

Replacing the exterior bulbs with LEDs has made for output and visibility improvements. It seems LEDs are not quite yet a viable option for us...

Speaking of LEDs, after a fair amount of reading last night, it seems that my ABS light is LED-related. That said, a resistor on the 3rd brake light should do the trick. The resistor rating, I don't know at this time though...

 

[octanejunkie]

Brian, thanks for chiming-in. Between me not having a lot of spare time, actually not a lot of time at all; and the breakage concern you mention, as super cool as these look, I'll need to pass.

Replacing the exterior bulbs with LEDs has made for output and visibility improvements. It seems LEDs are not quite yet a viable option for us...

Brian's results on his latest build are not typical, and though unfortunate, I'm not in a hurry to open mine back up just to put demon eyes in, but I do need to reseal them at some point, and I hate the chrome shrouds, so I figured "while I'm in there" Lol

A basic projector retrofit sans bells and whistles like halos and demon eyes would be a great upgrade. Also, look into the PIAA headlight upgrade some on the forum have done (I believe it's LED) The issue is with LED headlamps in our trucks is always going to be how the bulb "behaves" in a reflector designed around a halogen bulb - which is why the projector mod is failsafe, it doesn't rely on the reflector bowl.

Speaking of LEDs, after a fair amount of reading last night, it seems that my ABS light is LED-related. That said, a resistor on the 3rd brake light should do the trick. The resistor rating, I don't know at this time though...

That sounds familiar... :crazy:

 

[TonyB66]

Brian's results on his latest build are not typical, and though unfortunate, I'm not in a hurry to open mine back up just to put demon eyes in, but I do need to reseal them at some point, and I hate the chrome shrouds, so I figured "while I'm in there" Lol

A basic projector retrofit sans bells and whistles like halos and demon eyes would be a great upgrade. Also, look into the PIAA headlight upgrade some on the forum have done (I believe it's LED) The issue is with LED headlamps in our trucks is always going to be how the bulb "behaves" in a reflector designed around a halogen bulb - which is why the projector mod is failsafe, it doesn't rely on the reflector bowl.



That sounds familiar... :crazy:

It seems that the ABS system thinks I have a brake light out. I imagine the ABS is still active, for those who want to retain such. I realize I can remove that ABS light bulb, black tape over it, but I'd rather address it by adding back the proper resistance.

So, would a "basic" projector retrofit be rather straight-forward, not all that time-consuming, and be a reliable solution, as well as upgrade? Sounds like it...

With a respirator on as I type (Darth Vader breathing!), I'm about to be in the attic for a good part of the day.

 

[TonyB66]

First oil change, finally. The oil from the dipstick looked decent, but after Seafoam for about 50 miles, it was quite filthy.

All new for me of course, but realized pretty quickly that I needed to remove the the skid plate, at least the front portion. Looks to be seven bolts, but I had six. Add that to the list of stuff to pick-up....

The oil filter is not in a great location, to be polite. Is there a recommended socket wrench? I used a plier-like wrench, the type that can mangle the filter. Worked just fine, but I'd prefer the socket-type for putting-on the new filter.

Oh, when I lowered the skid plate I found these plastic bits. Any ideas?

 

[octanejunkie]

Plastic bits look like seat rail trim covers that have seen better days lol

The oil filter should be hand tight, no tool required. The rubber ring expands to form a mechanical seal due to heat; but yes, there is a tool you can buy. Don't over tighten it or it will be a bear to get off.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[TonyB66]

Plastic bits look like seat rail trim covers that have seen better days lol

The oil filter should be hand tight, no tool required. The rubber ring expands to form a mechanical seal due to heat; but yes, there is a tool you can buy. Don't over tighten it or it will be a bear to get off.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Thanks Mike. I hear ya. To be honest, I didn't find it easy to get a good grip on the filter with either of my hands. I usually like to go a little tighter after hand-tight anyways, no even a 1/4 turn... The filter housing seems to be about 2 3/4" in diameter. I'll see if I can find a cap/socket-style...

I let the oil drain overnight. A little over 5.5 quarts...

I now have the battery disco'd overnight, hoping to reset that ABS light. I installed a 6 ohm resistor, that should work, hopefully.

Will attempt the diffs and transfer case, soon (still expecting that gasket kit for all 3!).

 

[cblock406]

I crank the wheels to the left and tighten my oil filter through the wheel well. You can get it plenty hand tight that way.

 

[TonyB66]

I was trying to tighten the oil filter from below, so that was probably why. I did have that wheel well flap folded back a bit, but I guess I should have tried different approach angles for a better grip. Was rushing a little to get it done....

Drain and fill...

Got about 5 quarts, which I guess is pretty normal for these, the autos at least...

It was dang brown too, not much hint of red at all. Took it for spin around the block, and all seems fine so far. Was paranoid about stripping the drain bolt given all that I had read. Not sure I got 15 ft-lbs, but I've snugged it a few times since, just like the oil drain plug, usually three times to ensure it's tight, at torque spec. This one of course has the crush washer...

ABS light still on, even after the battery being disco'd 12 hours. I do think it's the brake light/s though as the ABS light does not come-on when I start the engine, but only after I turn the lights on. So, I don't think I truly have an ABS problem. Maybe my logic is flawed though....

Maybe it's just my doors, but do these doors not stay open even on minimal upward slopes? My little ones keep getting "scissored".... Maybe there's an aftermkt hinge out there that works better. If so, please do share.

Getting the gaskets for the diffs and transfer case on Friday, so those will be next...