TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)

[Mark_BC]

Glad it worked out and I would probably have redone the fittings too, I can't stand that nagging feeling that something might not be right and might cause problems.

I have a crazy idea of mounting mine above the engine and use that 7" fan to cool it. I put on a sport hood so I have more space up there. I have no supercharger so I'd have to measure it up. I know the top of the engine gets hot but I have the hood scoop to use for ventilation. I believe these scoops are normally blocked off and unused but I could actually use mine. I wouldn't want salt water spraying in there in winter so then I'd just close it off which won't be a problem since in winter, a hot engine bay isn't an issue.

 

[TonyB66]

Glad it worked out and I would probably have redone the fittings too, I can't stand that nagging feeling that something might not be right and might cause problems.

I have a crazy idea of mounting mine above the engine and use that 7" fan to cool it. I put on a sport hood so I have more space up there. I have no supercharger so I'd have to measure it up. I know the top of the engine gets hot but I have the hood scoop to use for ventilation. I believe these scoops are normally blocked off and unused but I could actually use mine. I wouldn't want salt water spraying in there in winter so then I'd just close it off which won't be a problem since in winter, a hot engine bay isn't an issue.

A 3rd gen hood scoop with an actual function. :biggrin2:

I think the fan would be a must in that location, which you stated. I did scope-out the rear, and I believe there's a viable option there too; especially with a fan. Just to be different, I almost did so. I did purchase 25' of 3/8" hose...

Back to your proposed install above the engine. Also consider the ease of removal, or allowing it to swing out of the way, like for when you change spark plugs and other servicing.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

So what's your final assessment of the stainless zip ties? I was somewhat intrigued by the idea initially, but seeing the sharp cut edge above, I just know that I'd get cut by them sooner or later.

What are your thoughts?

 

[TonyB66]

So what's your final assessment of the stainless zip ties? I was somewhat intrigued by the idea initially, but seeing the sharp cut edge above, I just know that I'd get cut by them sooner or later.

What are your thoughts?

Leon, for the same reason I uninstalled the cooler and fittings, to ensure a better or more secure leak-proof system, I'm glad I got the stainless steel zip ties. At 10 bucks for 100 of them, price was certainly not a factor.

I didn't get a photo of of how I rolled back the sharp points. It took a small needle nose and I believe a small flat head screwdriver, about 15 to 20 minutes, and I feel good about sticking my hand or finger in those areas now.

There are some good quality plastic zip ties these days that should last much longer than cheaper quality ones. Unless I decide to re-route the lines later, these zip ties should out live me.

A change of topic... While I know that I have some automotive relays around, I ordered these last night.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTQNJKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will likely follow Mike's instructions below to get the corner lights on turn signal duty. I will probably get this done before the bumper install...

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3203287-post577.html

Charlie provided this approach w/o a relay: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3191602-post510.html

 

[TonyB66]

With the tranny cooler done, I reinstalled the front skid plate. I then put the final coat on the rear swing out spare tire carrier. Painting is all done, on the bumpers...

I started some prep for the rear bumper. The instructions recommend painting the body behind where the bumper will be positioned. I cleaned the areas well with water, then alcohol, then some taping to protect from overspray.

A couple coats of paint.

A warm breezy day, it dried fast. Done.

With the bumper install looming, I thought I'd start scoping-out a location for these.

I think I'll wait until after the front bumper is installed...

 

[Snowden]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] -- something I wish I had done was paint behind the rear bumper. I did this on the front but I foolishly didn't do it when I did the rear bumper. I actually don't recall reading the suggestion in the installation instructions so perhaps this was an added tip later on. Since my front bumper went on a few months after the rear bumper it was only because I noticed this unnatractive gaff behind the rear bumper that I thought to do it on the front.

That said I notice something many of us have learned the hard way. Your rear interior 'exhale' vent on the drivers side is missing the rubber flap that prevents blow back from the outside. Most likely happened when you've been running around without a bumper on. Even with these hybrid rear bumpers there is enough breeze hitting it that it apparently blows away (which is what happened in my case after I had installed the bumper).

If you don't have it on there or cover that vent you'll get sheet-ton of dust in the back of your Runner. Until I take my bumper back off (ugh...) I bought some white duct tape (matches my white Runner) and simply taped it off. Works fine and I have zero issues with pressure when closing the doors. YMMV.

 

[TonyB66]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] -- something I wish I had done was paint behind the rear bumper. I did this on the front but I foolishly didn't do it when I did the rear bumper. I actually don't recall reading the suggestion in the installation instructions so perhaps this was an added tip later on. Since my front bumper went on a few months after the rear bumper it was only because I noticed this unnatractive gaff behind the rear bumper that I thought to do it on the front.

That said I notice something many of us have learned the hard way. Your rear interior 'exhale' vent on the drivers side is missing the rubber flap that prevents blow back from the outside. Most likely happened when you've been running around without a bumper on. Even with these hybrid rear bumpers there is enough breeze hitting it that it apparently blows away (which is what happened in my case after I had installed the bumper).

If you don't have it on there or cover that vent you'll get sheet-ton of dust in the back of your Runner. Until I take my bumper back off (ugh...) I bought some white duct tape (matches my white Runner) and simply taped it off. Works fine and I have zero issues with pressure when closing the doors. YMMV.

Ash, thanks for making the time to share your experiences with the bumpers, and that flap.

In case you are interested, here are the instructions for that rear bumper (Savage):

http://www.savageoffroad.biz/assets/images/BumperCategory/Savage/96024RRB INSTALL.pdf

With respect to the front bumper, I don't see where any painting would be helpful, but maybe I should look again. I seem to recall that you don't have a Savage front bumper, so maybe that's why...

I noticed that flap was missing when I removed the rear bumper. I'm happy to hear that you've had no ill affects by just sealing it. I was contemplating such, but was concerned... Was thinking of a thin piece of sheet metal cut to fit, siliconed into place, and painted. Maybe something I can do tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

[Snowden]

With respect to the front bumper, I don't see where any painting would be helpful, but maybe I should look again. I seem to recall that you don't have a Savage front bumper, so maybe that's why...

Tony you're right on both counts, I should have been more specific. I have an Addicted Off-road front bumper. And typically no it is not necassary to paint the front area, except perhaps the outside corners where you cut the now unused tie-in brackets off that are hanging exposed.

In my case I have a body lift, and the AoR front bumper is not available with a body lift modification. So there is usually a gap when that bumper is mounted on and that gap is what I painted black. Eventually though I could no longer stand seeing the gap and I fortunately located someone locally (thanks to a T4R member) who was able to modify the AoR bumper and lift it up to hide the BL gap. If you go to my thread you can see old pictures with it showing the gap if you are curious how it looked. I've got stupid money into my front bumper at this point but I do love it so what the heck, it is what it is...

 

[TonyB66]

Tony you're right on both counts, I should have been more specific. I have an Addicted Off-road front bumper. And typically no it is not necassary to paint the front area, except perhaps the outside corners where you cut the now unused tie-in brackets off that are hanging exposed.

In my case I have a body lift, and the AoR front bumper is not available with a body lift modification. So there is usually a gap when that bumper is mounted on and that gap is what I painted black. Eventually though I could no longer stand seeing the gap and I fortunately located someone locally (thanks to a T4R member) who was able to modify the AoR bumper and lift it up to hide the BL gap. If you go to my thread you can see old pictures with it showing the gap if you are curious how it looked. I've got stupid money into my front bumper at this point but I do love it so what the heck, it is what it is...

Actually I've been in your thread the past few minutes. Damn clean 4Runner Ash. Looks really good.

I appreciate the clarification. No BL here, but the Savage front bumper allows for such, I think up to 3"...

On the rear bumper install, did you use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel on the rear frame (notches)? An angle grinder seems a bit much for that job.

 

[Snowden]

On the rear bumper install, did you use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel on the rear frame (notches)? An angle grinder seems a bit much for that job.

Wow that's the first time I've seen that instruction sheet. I just sort of put mine on while looking at pictures on some various detailed threads done by folks installing theirs.

But I do notice that the bumper in the instructions sheet you shared is a tube bumper and not the hybrid bumper. I don't know if that makes a difference in needing to notch the quarter panel pinch weld or not because I did not have to notch my body panels at all. Or maybe that has to do with my bumper being built for a 2" BL option because the fixed brackets are taller than yours would be.

When you offer yours up to the frame you'll find out soon enough. But yes I would think a dremmel should be sufficient rather than an angle grinder if you do have to go that route. Maybe call Roy and ask he's a great guy and very helpful to his customers.

 

[TonyB66]

Wow that's the first time I've seen that instruction sheet. I just sort of put mine on while looking at pictures on some various detailed threads done by folks installing theirs.

But I do notice that the bumper in the instructions sheet you shared is a tube bumper and not the hybrid bumper. I don't know if that makes a difference in needing to notch the quarter panel pinch weld or not because I did not have to notch my body panels at all. Or maybe that has to do with my bumper being built for a 2" BL option because the fixed brackets are taller than yours would be.

When you offer yours up to the frame you'll find out soon enough. But yes I would think a dremmel should be sufficient rather than an angle grinder if you do have to go that route. Maybe call Roy and ask he's a great guy and very helpful to his customers.

I think Roy has had those instructions on his website for a while, at least since I got my 4Runner a little over a year ago... I think you are right on the notching, not needing to do so due to your BL. Tim has expressed interest in wanting to film the install of these, so we'll find-out on the notching soon enough...

Hey, back to those areas in the rear I painted. Did you put bolts or otherwise fill those threaded holes before installing the rear bumper? I'm not keen on the leaving them open. Thinking of a shooting some silicone in there.

After looking at the front Savage bumper, I did some painting in the front too.

Looks like those areas would be visible through a large hole on the side of bumper.

And, I think I found a good spot to mount the four Cadillac horns. Two on each side. The wet piece in this photo with two bolt holes (one has a bolt now).

The relays came today, so I might start with the lights next.

 

[Snowden]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] regarding the bolt holes in the rear panels, I just put the original bolts back in and painted them to match.

On the front outer brackets that you painted those are the ends I mentioned yesterday that get cut off. Otherwise I would lose articulation clearance and aesthetics. I am not sure about the Savage front bumper but as you can see with the AoR it clears quite high and tight so those brackets were hanging down exposed. I just took a couple of pictures out in the garage sorry for the poor lighting.

Basically you can also just remove the bracket but when I first did that I personally thought the fender lost a bit of structural integrity and flexed at the outside front corner. So, following as others have done, I left the bracket mounted and cut it off just below where it mounts to the fender. Then I shape cut the black plastic under and inside.

(Pictures won't upload I'll try it again tomorrow from work) [MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] -- Pictures still won't upload this morning I'm not sure why sorry about that. If you cut the bracket off just after where it is bolted to the outside front edge of the fender you still get the benefit of the support it offers. The lower part of the bracket is only there for to tie in the trailing outside edge of the factory bumper so it really isn't doing anything now. You can always do this after you install the bumper I believe (not exactly sure of the clearances of a Savage FB so don't quote me) so you can perhaps decide later what to do. I know Tim cut his after he installed his CBI bumper.

 

[TonyB66]

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] regarding the bolt holes in the rear panels, I just put the original bolts back in and painted them to match.

On the front outer brackets that you painted those are the ends I mentioned yesterday that get cut off. Otherwise I would lose articulation clearance and aesthetics. I am not sure about the Savage front bumper but as you can see with the AoR it clears quite high and tight so those brackets were hanging down exposed. I just took a couple of pictures out in the garage sorry for the poor lighting.

Basically you can also just remove the bracket but when I first did that I personally thought the fender lost a bit of structural integrity and flexed at the outside front corner. So, following as others have done, I left the bracket mounted and cut it off just below where it mounts to the fender. Then I shape cut the black plastic under and inside.



(Pictures won't upload I'll try it again tomorrow from work)

Thanks Ash.

I too looked at removing those pieces, but it appears like they offer some support there, as you stated, so I just painted them black...

I believe I can visualize what you are saying as I was thinking the same. I don't believe i'll need to do any trimming and the Savage instructions make no such reference.

I sold the rear bumper, I think with those bolts, but I believe I have a few more of those lying around. I'll figure something out. Thanks again.

 

[phattyduck]

Thanks Ash.

I too looked at removing those pieces, but it appears like they offer some support there, as you stated, so I just painted them black...

I kept enough of those inner supports to help hold the fender liner and the fender, but most got cut off/removed. I think much of the strength added by those brackets was there to support the 'wing' of the stock bumper through that rubber mount. If you unbolt it, you can cut it in a hidden way and reinstall what you want to keep.

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

I kept enough of those inner supports to help hold the fender liner and the fender, but most got cut off/removed. I think much of the strength added by those brackets was there to support the 'wing' of the stock bumper through that rubber mount. If you unbolt it, you can cut it in a hidden way and reinstall what you want to keep.

-Charlie

That makes sense Charlie. I agree on the "wing" of the stock bumper probably being the main reason for its existence. So, to be clear, you trimmed it out of need, to fit an aftermkt bumper? Not sure that will be needed with the Savage front bumper, but I'll find-out... Heck, I'll send an email to Roy and get his input.

I didn't have much time today, but got these off.

The plates at the end of the frame rails will need to get trimmed right up to the welds. Since i cleaned and painted the frame rails everywhere else, I decided to do the same for this most forward portion right up to those plate.

Sold the front bumper today! 200 bucks. That puts me at almost $1k in parts sold...

$400 - Leather Front Seats

$50 - Factory Stereo & Amp

$75 - Cargo Privacy Cover

$50 - Skid Plates (2)

$150 - Rear Bumper

$25 - Spare Tire Crank

$200 - Front Bumper

Still to go (on the mkt):

$200 - Gas Tank Skid

$25 - Spare Tire Carrier

$50 - Roof rack cross members

$20 - Air intake/silencer box

$50 - Front brakes

Later...

? - Trailer hitch

? - Moonroof (full assembly)

? - Wheels & tires (5)

 

[phattyduck]

That makes sense Charlie. I agree on the "wing" of the stock bumper probably being the main reason for its existence. So, to be clear, you trimmed it out of need, to fit an aftermkt bumper? Not sure that will be needed with the Savage front bumper, but I'll find-out... Heck, I'll send an email to Roy and get his input.

Yeah, I have a Shrockworks front bumper (plate style). You'll just have to get the bumper on there and cut until it looks good. :becky:

You may want to paint parts of the body black in the front there, since you will have lots of holes in the bumper and that stuff will be visible. I'll be doing that next time I take the bumper off for a winch install...

-Charlie

 

[octanejunkie]

Sold the front bumper today! 200 bucks. That puts me at almost $1k in parts sold...

$400 - Leather Front Seats

$50 - Factory Stereo & Amp

$75 - Cargo Privacy Cover

$50 - Skid Plates (2)

$150 - Rear Bumper

$25 - Spare Tire Crank

$200 - Front Bumper

Still to go (on the mkt):

$200 - Gas Tank Skid

$25 - Spare Tire Carrier

$50 - Roof rack cross members

$20 - Air intake/silencer box

$50 - Front brakes

Later...

? - Trailer hitch

? - Moonroof (full assembly)

? - Wheels & tires (5)

Where can I get access to buyers with stoopid monies like that lol?

BTW, it your hitch welded or bolted (if you have a flippable, bolted hitch you'll know - and that's what I want)

 

[phattyduck]

Where can I get access to buyers with stoopid monies like that lol?

BTW, it your hitch welded or bolted (if you have a flippable, bolted hitch you'll know - and that's what I want)

I think I also got $200 for my front bumper (and impact bar). Its hard to find ones in good shape.

Oh, and I have a flip-able hitch sitting in my garage if you want it... For less than stupid money, of course!

-Charlie

 

[TonyB66]

Just Craigslist, and patience...

I've had some 4Runner stuff posted for months. The front bumper was on over a month. The factory gas tank skid has been for sale for several months. Back to the front bumper, it included the turn signals and fogs. It did not include the impact bar, which I still have. As for the rear bumper which I sold for $150, that did not include the tow hitch, which I'm still using...

Got an email today about the roof rack cross members for 50 bucks. Those have been listed for over 6 months. If sold, that would be $1k exactly in oem parts.

Quite a bit of rain coming through here the next few days, so back to house projects...

 

[CaboRunner]

Do you have any pics of the new front bumper installed? I’ve already got one on order but haven’t seen any really good pics of them installed