Trans overheating???

[amalik]

So the debate rages on then...lol.

I've read so many threads on here about the trans cooler - to bypass or not - and I'm still conflicted.



For me, the plan right now is to bypass for this exact reason. I guess that if I don't see any trans temp issues after 4 seasons, it's a safe bet I can just leave that setup the way it is, but I still have a lot of people telling me that the cooler itself won't be enough or will keep the trans from going to temp in the winter.

Pulling my hair out now, lol.

If it makes you feel any better, I have a standalone cooler with the radiator bypass and I don't even know my temps while driving. My tranny hasn't blown up yet, though. So far, so good.

I have a 97 which can't pull the tranny temp from scan-gauge or a bluetooth/smartphone app like Torque, and I haven't yet installed a manual gauge to measure the temp.

[MENTION=94063]slapdappy[/MENTION] would be disappointed in me.

 

[the great him]

the B&M have a bypass valve in them and if i understand it correctly, if the temps are not high enough they will bypass the cooler ie direct flow from one port to the other until the temp rises and the cooler is needed. fwiw i have never had a cooling issue of too cool with my trans coolers, but i have had the issue of too hot, and i have done a lot of winter wheeling. now that being said most of that is low speeds and hard use.

i say run it but dont run them(cooler and radiator) in series thats defeating the purpose

 

[amalik]

the B&M have a bypass valve in them and if i understand it correctly, if the temps are not high enough they will bypass the cooler ie direct flow from one port to the other until the temp rises and the cooler is needed. fwiw i have never had a cooling issue of too cool with my trans coolers, but i have had the issue of too hot, and i have done a lot of winter wheeling. now that being said most of that is low speeds and hard use.

i say run it but dont run them(cooler and radiator) in series thats defeating the purpose

Tru-Cool LPD models have that too.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

If it makes you feel any better, I have a standalone cooler with the radiator bypass and I don't even know my temps while driving. My tranny hasn't blown up yet, though. So far, so good.

I have a 97 which can't pull the tranny temp from scan-gauge or a bluetooth/smartphone app like Torque, and I haven't yet installed a manual gauge to measure the temp.

[MENTION=94063]slapdappy[/MENTION] would be disappointed in me.

I am planning to install a guage on my '97. I already purchased 2 3/8 brass tee fittings with appropriate 3/8 barbed ends and caps. I will install them at the same time as the 70286, ready to receive senders for a gauge. I plan on doing a dual sender setup to one gauge. One on the send line, one on the receive line.

I'm just curious to see trans temp behavior. The gauge isn't a priority for me, it's more of a nice-to-have feature (taking into account that I'm not hard on my rig's driveline). Which is why I'm waiting for my tax return or birthday before buying one and an extra sender.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

the B&M have a bypass valve in them and if i understand it correctly, if the temps are not high enough they will bypass the cooler ie direct flow from one port to the other until the temp rises and the cooler is needed. fwiw i have never had a cooling issue of too cool with my trans coolers, but i have had the issue of too hot, and i have done a lot of winter wheeling. now that being said most of that is low speeds and hard use.

i say run it but dont run them(cooler and radiator) in series thats defeating the purpose

Thanks, that still remains as my plan. And yes, I am aware the B&M and Tru-Cools have Low Temp Bypass features.

 

[Robb235]

I suspect an install error is the culprit for the high temps.

OP, is the input hose (from the transmission) on the top or bottom of the transmission cooler? The fact that you stated the temps fluctuate as you drive makes me think the hoses could be installed reversed. I've driven 90mph plenty of times without my transmission fluid temps getting that hot.

Where is the transmission cooler mounted? Is it flush against the A/C condenser? Can you post some pictures of your transmission cooler?

The 268 is a bit small, but I feel like even then the temps are too high for it to be normal.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

OP, is the input hose (from the transmission) on the top or bottom of the transmission cooler?

And yes for sake of wondering it is properly placed and routed correctly (send in bottow, return at the top).

It looks like he has the send line hooked up to the bottom which I believe is the correct and recommended routing.

 

[4eigner]

I suspect an install error is the culprit for the high temps.

OP, is the input hose (from the transmission) on the top or bottom of the transmission cooler? The fact that you stated the temps fluctuate as you drive makes me think the hoses could be installed reversed. I've driven 90mph plenty of times without my transmission fluid temps getting that hot.

Where is the transmission cooler mounted? Is it flush against the A/C condenser? Can you post some pictures of your transmission cooler?

The 268 is a bit small, but I feel like even then the temps are too high for it to be normal.

90mph on the flat is MUCH less demanding than 85mph going uphill.

 

[Former_Jeeper]

Robb......yes i agree that's much hotter than what other guys seem to get that's what I was wanting to see if that's my problem. To answer your question yes it's going from the tranny to the bottom of the cooler and obviously the top of the cooler sends it back to the tranny. (I installed a magnafine one way filter so I made very sure believe me)

The great him yeah agreed I ordered that cooler regrettably but mainly based on its popularity within the forum. I may go for the 264 and see if that helps but knowing that it's going to be around 50 degrees warmer In a couple months I think I may have to reroute back through the rad. And just replace it with a koyo I use those lights fairly often and don't reallj want to remove them.

Thanks for the input fellas.

PS I know 235 is high but it was only briefly and the fact that I'm running redline D4 full synthetic probably didn't do a whole lot of damage

 

[slapdappy]

useful info: http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/category/cooler-info.html

LPD: different size openings to regulate amount of fluid allowed to circulate through the trans cooler. low trans fluid temp = thicker fluid = flows through larger openings but not through smaller ones. As it heats up, it gets thinner = lower viscosity = also flows through the smaller openings/passages = circulates thorough entire trans cooler.
Is the magnefine plumbed in correct direction?
Trans cooler should be mounted no more than 1/2" in front of a/c condensor and within the fan's draw path.
When bypassing stock trans cooler you need to increase cooling capacity. Mine is rated at 20,000 btu vs 13,000 for B&M. I tow over 1000 lbs of snowmobile/trailer up mountain highways between 6000 ft - 10,000 ft elevations at 55-65 mph with OD TURNED OFF. the ScanGauge shows temps well below 200, usually @ 170.
Leaving OD on sends temps up immediately and substantially.
1) larger btu cooler
2) close to a/c condensor
3) draw path of radiator fan
4) magnefine orientation
5) OD off
6) Size of trans fluid hose

aux lights are not the issue. plenty of space between them and the grill, trans cooler, a/c condenser. as long as the trans cooler is positioned within the fan draw path and close to the a/c condenser there will be plenty of air flow.

 

[slapdappy]

I have a 97 which can't pull the tranny temp from scan-gauge or a bluetooth/smartphone app like Torque, and I haven't yet installed a manual gauge to measure the temp.

[MENTION=94063]slapdappy[/MENTION] would be disappointed in me.

let's install a proper sending unit and gauge this spring.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Tru-Cool LPD models have that too.

They are the company that makes the cooler for B&M actually.

Has anyone removed the temp switch in the trans to try and install a temp gauge sending unit in its place on the older 96-98.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

6) Size of trans fluid hose

I'm curious to know if the OP used the supplied lines with the kit or upped the size to 3/8" ID.

I know I'm going with 3/8" ID line when I install mine as I believe that is the OEM size. (don't quote me on that though, I just remember reading that somewhere.)

 

[Former_Jeeper]

The magnafine is installed correctly I called the company and not wanting to debate but i put it before the cooler and yes I know it's a one way flow filter

I used the zip tie method so it sits right up against the rad and yes oriented correctly to the fan.

I did NOT use the 5/16 that came with it I used 3/8 bought separately

One thing I did not do on the highway besides drive like the Dukes of hazards was turn the OD off I'll try that on my next highway trip and let you guys know what I find

 

[amalik]

useful info: transmissioncoolers.us: Cooler Quick Guide

LPD: different size openings to regulate amount of fluid allowed to circulate through the trans cooler. low trans fluid temp = thicker fluid = flows through larger openings but not through smaller ones. As it heats up, it gets thinner = lower viscosity = also flows through the smaller openings/passages = circulates thorough entire trans cooler.
Is the magnefine plumbed in correct direction?
Trans cooler should be mounted no more than 1/2" in front of a/c condensor and within the fan's draw path.
When bypassing stock trans cooler you need to increase cooling capacity. Mine is rated at 20,000 btu vs 13,000 for B&M. I tow over 1000 lbs of snowmobile/trailer up mountain highways between 6000 ft - 10,000 ft elevations at 55-65 mph with OD TURNED OFF. the ScanGauge shows temps well below 200, usually @ 170.
Leaving OD on sends temps up immediately and substantially.
1) larger btu cooler
2) close to a/c condensor
3) draw path of radiator fan
4) magnefine orientation
5) OD off
6) Size of trans fluid hose

aux lights are not the issue. plenty of space between them and the grill, trans cooler, a/c condenser. as long as the trans cooler is positioned within the fan draw path and close to the a/c condenser there will be plenty of air flow.

I thought OD is basically 4th gear. It's interesting you go up to 65MPH with OD off. If I have OD off, I can hear the gears really struggling at around 50-55MPH, begging for that next set of gears.

let's install a proper sending unit and gauge this spring.

Sounds like a plan. I suck at having to join in on existing wire (splicing into ashtray lighter 12v), probably that has been my main delay besides figuring out 2 good grounds as well for the gauge and sender unit.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

The magnafine is installed correctly I called the company and not wanting to debate but i put it before the cooler and yes I know it's a one way flow filter

I used the zip tie method so it sits right up against the rad and yes oriented correctly to the fan.

I did NOT use the 5/16 that came with it I used 3/8 bought separately

One thing I did not do on the highway besides drive like the Dukes of hazards was turn the OD off I'll try that on my next highway trip and let you guys know what I find

:thumb:

Looking forward to your report.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

I thought OD is basically 4th gear. It's interesting you go up to 65MPH with OD off. If I have OD off, I can hear the gears really struggling at around 50-55MPH, begging for that next set of gears.

Overdrive is exactly that, overgeared. It's above the direct ratio (so over 1:1, which is what 3rd or "D" gear is) and sits at 0.705.

There are some good details about the auto tranny gear ratios in this post: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/548-ect-overdrive-buttons.html#post3198

 

[slapdappy]

I thought OD is basically 4th gear. It's interesting you go up to 65MPH with OD off. If I have OD off, I can hear the gears really struggling at around 50-55MPH, begging for that next set of gears

I'm comfortable running engine at 5000 rpm for sustained climbing. Trans temp stays well under 190 (winter). I think its beneficial for engine to run at high rpm occasionally.
I often drop it down to 2nd going up to eisenhower tunnel. Not setting speed records but not snailing along at 35 mph. Prob going @ 60
OD acts like a 4th gear but when towing or going up a long steep grade there is some kind of not locking up issue with the torque converter = heat = bad for trans/bad for fluid etc etc.
Towing or not, i switch off overdrive whenever ascending a grade in the mts.
Spend most of the time in mts with OD off, especially upslope.

 

[slides]

last time i went through CO i was in my bmw and we were flying up those passes around 100+....its going to be interesting going out the with the 4r probably bearly able to do the speed limit.

 

[slapdappy]

couple of days ago: outside temp 56 deg. I-70 west, to Eisenhower Tunnel. going uphill from 8500 ft > 11,000 ft. towing 1000 lbs sled/trailer. 2nd gear. 5000 rpm, @ 60 mph ATF temp topped out at 197 deg.
curious what high temp will be in summer without trailer but with load of camping gear.