TRDHULK Build Thread - 2020 Army Green TRD Pro

Looking awesome! Can I ask what the main difference was between going from a 315 to a 35 in terms of fitment? I’ve already done an aggressive BMC, pinch welds, and front fender liner and some rocker cap trimming, just not sure how much of the fender bracket needs to go. I’m in -12 RRWs so it should be *slightly* easier to tuck, but I’d prefer to not have to cut my actual fender if I can get away with it…

There is not much of a difference in the sizes. I personally liked the slightly wider look on the 315s over the 35s. I do think the 35s rub slightly more, but its hard to say for sure because I have a different suspension set up than I did with the 315s.

For me to be more rub-free, I'll need to trim the fender a little and modify the fender/rocker cap a little more. Even then, the tires will still slightly rub on the firewall until I get LCA's to move the front wheels forward a bit.
 
I haven't done very much to the 4Runner recently.

I did a easy, quick upgrade; front Seat Jackers from Desert Does It.

The new seating position is great, and truly makes the seat more comfortable, especially for someone tall like myself. The Jackers allow for better leg support, and its noticeable.

I also opted for the Desert Does it molle panel for the Seat Jackets to mount my Glock 19. I used an Alien Gear holster from Amazon made specifically for the Glock 19. The holster has a special mount for the molle panel, and allows you to mount the pistol at any angle. The holster also has a thumb release to remove the pistol with different tension settings, and a trigger lock to prevent accidental discharge. Its badass and as safe as you can get without it being locked away in a safe or glovebox.

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I recently swapped out my RevTek rear mud flap deletes to Ark Splash Guards.

They do the same thing, and both look good, but the product from Ark is thicker plastic, offers a little extra coverage, and comes with better hardware thats easy to remove for any reason; RevTeks hardware/clips needed to be cut off; no way to remove the push clips without damage.

Plus the rears now match my front splash guards from ARK.

TRDHULK gets you 10% off. Link in my Linktree on my Instagram. See sig.


Old RevTeks:

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New Arks:

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USE CODE "TRDHULK" FOR 10% OFF OF ARK SPLASH GUARDS
 
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Time for the new ARB Base Rack!

I chose this rack for the simple, minimalistic, flat design. It’s also very modular with a bunch of extra accessories that can be added if needed. There are a ton of great options out there and I don’t see this option on a 4Runner very often.

Removing the OEM rack has been known to be a big issue. It’s common for the bolt heads to strip out or sheer off. It’s also common for the clips to fall behind the headliner, requiring headliner removal to retrieve the clips. I followed a YouTube video from Westcott Designs where a torch is used to heat up the head of the bolt to melt the red loctite to help the bolts come out with ease. This worked perfectly. Once the bolts only have a thread or two left, they need to be removed at nearly the exact same time to prevent the clips from spinning or falling behind the headliner.

Once the old rack was off, the new one was a breeze. Instructions say to assemble the whole rack and throw it up on the roof. This would have been a 2 man job, but since I was installing alone, I built the rack on the roof. I installed the side rails, put some pillows on the roof, set down one side of the rack on the pillows and slide it across to the other side. Worked like a charm and nothing got scratched or damaged.

I really liked the OEM rack, but it’s just not functional enough. We want to get a roof top tent this summer and the OEM rack just wouldn’t work. Plus it scraped on everything and was fairly beat up. I love the look of the ARB even more than expected.

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You can see how often I scraped the rack

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One of my two Hi-Lift knobs seized up on me...

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I had to improvise lol

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Just to see how hard these bolts really are, I did one quick attempt with my impact; they didn't budge.

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Here is the tip from Wescott Designs. I torched each head for about 5-10 seconds, 2-3 times before the bolt was completely removed.

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Off!

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ARB brackets

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Since I was installing by myself, I build the rack on the roof rather than building the whole thing on the ground and installing it.

Since it was a little heavy and I didn't want to risk any scratches, I set 3 pillows on the roof, set the rack down on the pillows and slid the rack into place. This worked perfectly.

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Installed!

I drove it for an afternoon without the air deflector and OMG it makes a ton of wind noise. After the deflector was installed; zero wind noise!
 
Bought the ARB Premium Hi-Lift jack holder for the new rack....

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And one of the latches is built backwards...or upside down. Can't latch it.

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Frustrating, but ARB is sending a new one.
 
Now for my favorite upgrade; the 285/75r17 (34") Yokohama Geolandar G003 Mud Terrain tires!!! :frisky:

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Next to a stock TRD Pro

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I upgraded the front and rear bump stops to avoid the MT's tearing off the wheel flares and damaging areas when flexing off road.

For the front I used an inexpensive bump stop from Energy Suspension off Amazon.

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For the rear I just used Toytec billet bump stop spacers.

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Testing for clearances again

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A little too close for comfort. This is fully articulated. I had to do a little more cutting on the body mount.

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At this time I also installed some rear shock skids from FJ Toyman.

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I ended up cutting off about another inch from the front bumper, so about 2" in total including the first cut I did previously. I call it, the "Hulk Cut" and much prefer this over the high-clearance cut or the "Viper Cut."

Once again, just used a nice sharp box cutter on a warm day.

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This picture shows the relocated bolt holes for where the liner connect to the bumper.

Before

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After

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I run the geolander ATs
Do you have an update on wear, noise, mileage/ tread life and gas mileage?
 
,

I run the geolander ATs
Do you have an update on wear, noise, mileage/ tread life and gas mileage?

So these are MT's

I think they performed well for MT's that saw mostly street use with some off road use. After about 15k miles ( I think) they started to require balancing more often; they would wobble a bit. The tread wore evenly, they handled amazing in mud and snow, and weren't to loud for MT's. I think I removed them with about 22k miles or so.

I don't pay much attention to MPGs
 
I added ARB's premium Hi Lift jack holder to the side of the ARB Base Rack.

The look is very cool, and makes the Hi Lift super easy to access; much better than the previous way I has it mounted on the OEM TRD rack.

This kind of stems away from the OEM+ look I like, but its growing on me and I think I'll keep it this way.

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Northwest OHV Park

I'll be posting some videos in my Instagram [MENTION=536139]TRDHULK[/MENTION]


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Sometimes its the little things.

Ever since I moved the jack from the top of the old TRD rack to the side of the new ARB rack, it rattled like crazy. The old Hi Lift handle keeper didnt work due to the way the ARB jack mount held the handle close to the body of the jack. After trying a couple different handle keepers, I landed on this one that worked out perfectly; no more rattles! $22 and 30 seconds of work lol.

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I do a lot of DIY at home, and actually use my rack. Rather than hooking straps to the outer edge I added these ARB eye loops. This rack has a ton of small accessories like this available

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Got the new front valance installed. No hybrid bumper yet; sticking to the OEM look as long as possible.

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Added an ARB Roller Kit to the back of the ARB Base Rack. This allows you to load things onto the rack without scratching it up. Took all of 3 minutes to install

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These have been sitting in my garage for almost 2 years but finally got around to installing the adjustable Dobinsons rear sway bar links.

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