Tyler James Inc's Ultimate '01 SR5

[Tyler James Inc]

She is just about to roll 278k. Bought her at 180k 5+ years ago.

My '97 was tight like a tiger at 255k! Gotta ditch those front coils for something that won't rattle your teeth out and shake her till she falls apart [emoji23] Is it too late?

Or maybe I'm just a sociopath reading into Internet rhetoric and justifying 1,000's of dollars and hours turning a 2nd into a 3rd based on jealousy(?).
At any rate, love your build and it's officially added to the spank bank

Hahaha oh man. Well thank you.
I didn't realize you had a 2nd gen. I've had a 1st gen, and 2 second gens- they were all great Toyotas that I loved and miss! I had a '90 4cyl with factory leather, then a '92 3.0 auto that I 3.4/R150/dual RF1A swapped. Clocked rear case, flat belly, etc. I was starting from the inside, working my way "out" to a 'tons and 40's build. Ended up realizing I had 10's of thousands of $$$ to go before it would get to where I wanted it, and sold it. It was 100% stock suspension and body. Haha Glad I go outta that black hole before it was too late. Rock crawling really doesn't interest me that much, but I love building cool shit. I realized building a sick coilovered and linked 4R on 'tons for the street is a little dumb. *

 

[4Reak Show]

Oh man that's sweet! I would want to dual case mine but I'm just tired of cutting and slicing it. There needs to be a stopping point. It's definitely impressive to see the time folks put in to get the 1 tonners and such. Just hard to justify heading down that rabbit hole like you said. Especially when mine is currently used to get groceries every weekend and lives in the garage. It's more of a museum piece to me.

But I do play the lottery, so who knows right?

May I ask what "clocking" the transfer case is all about? Or do you have a link or pictures?
I'm imagining it's getting the case turned counterclockwise as viewed from the rear(?). Is that a difficult process?
Thanks and sorry for detouring your thread with 2nd gen talk hahahah

Edit: Google machine turned up some info. I guess clocking is only for dual cases huh? Makes sense.

 

[00Spork]

You're really making awesome progress on the rig! I'm super impressed and it looks sooo clean! I envy the 5spd! :boink:

Keep it up.

 

[JayRolla]

My '97 was tight like a tiger at 255k! Gotta ditch those front coils for something that won't rattle your teeth out and shake her till she falls apart [emoji23] Is it too late? Hahaha oh man. Well thank you.
I didn't realize you had a 2nd gen. I've had a 1st gen, and 2 second gens- they were all great Toyotas that I loved and miss! I had a '90 4cyl with factory leather, then a '92 3.0 auto that I 3.4/R150/dual RF1A swapped. Clocked rear case, flat belly, etc. I was starting from the inside, working my way "out" to a 'tons and 40's build. Ended up realizing I had 10's of thousands of $$$ to go before it would get to where I wanted it, and sold it. It was 100% stock suspension and body. Haha Glad I go outta that black hole before it was too late. Rock crawling really doesn't interest me that much, but I love building cool shit. I realized building a sick coilovered and linked 4R on 'tons for the street is a little dumb. ����*

Suspension is tight, steering is tight, nothing wrong with that stuff since its all replaced.

Im starting to get some failing injectors, interior buttons are starting to fail, sunroof is failing, window motors are slowing down, seat motors are failing, starting to get random trans shift codes, bearing noise in the transfer case, rear axles seals are starting to leak again, front wheel bearing is failing.

Its just starting to slowly fall apart. It has done me well till about the last 10k miles. Everything is starting to hit me at once.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Its just starting to slowly fall apart. Everything is starting to hit me at once.

Lame [emoji1361]

You're really making awesome progress on the rig! I'm super impressed and it looks sooo clean! I envy the 5spd! :boink:

Keep it up.

Thanks so much! I have a lot of fun with it [emoji1598] [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] Yeah, it's just a feature of some dual case and transmission adapters. Tucks the front output(what hangs the lowest) up so you can have a flat belly. Mine was clocked at the adapter from the R150 to the RF1A. So at the trans/crawl box. Many clock at the crawl box/xfer- it accomplishes the same thing.
This feels so familiar [emoji23]

I [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Working on clearancing the rear bumper/flares. This is how it started-

Trimmed, but not enough. The bolt is gonna have to get sacrificed-

Boom-

Hm, guess that still wasn't enough. New cut marked. Losing the inside bolt I was hoping to keep. Not sure how this beautiful flare is gonna stay attached [emoji23]

5th gen shocks are a great length, btw. About got the "35" stuffed-

Droop isn't horrible either. I'm really gonna fight [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] on his claims about having "way more droop with outboarded shocks" once I get the longer LC shocks-

That's before any tires left the ground, stock RSB end links still hooked up.

 

[4-Ripcord]

I never said that, and definitely not as a blanket statement.

Outboarded shocks give you the opportunity for more travel, if you do it right (which I did not do on my first go around, mounted them too high limiting droop severely). Those tokico LC shocks are about the best you can do with the stock mounting location, and they are a very good setup!

We can compare numbers after I modify my mounts and get some 12" travel shocks in there in a good position :dance:




That being said, I love your truck. Clean doesn't even begin to describe it. That manual swap was a huge undertaking and it came out really good!

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Haha, I hope you know I said that playfully [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION]. Thanks a lot for the props- I didn't realize yours was Thunder Cloud until I got mine- for some reason, I thought it was Millennium Silver. It's always been one of my favorites though. Definitely my style [emoji1360]
And you're right; I was remembering wrong; what you said is-

I have loads of uptravel because I have the upper mount relocated, I can run a much longer shock than you can in the stock mounting location.

And I actually still disagree with the part that implies you can have more uptravel than I can. Not only can you run a longer shock, but you have to run a longer shock- being outboard- just to get the same travel as the stock location. My up-travel will stop when my tire hits my quarter- so any more up-travel is irrelevant. Outboard shocks are much more effective, but I still contest you will have more travel.
Again- don't take me too seriously! I could very well be wrong, and we'll just have to toss numbers around to find out if I am or not.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

A little bummed to see I am actually up against my quarter [emoji19] Not really wanting to trim my quarter, I think I'll call this max bump. Like I said in my last post- my up-travel stops when the tire hits my quarter. I am also not really interested in shortening my wheelbase just to get more up-travel... or am I... [emoji848] 1/2" might be worth it. I guess we'll see.

The flare will be scooted back 1/2", but I don't think it will be too noticeable- it'll definitely look better than no flare!

 

[4-Ripcord]

Just didn't want to spread false info :nerd:

But yes I agree with everything you said. The post you quoted of mine is worded very poorly on my part. The only reason to go outboard is if you plan to get a much longer shock in there to increase down travel beyond the stock limits or to have more shock options because you can go with different mounting styles.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Yeah, I definitely agree with that 100% [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION]. The shock options factor is actually pretty huge.
I guess a 3" bump stop extension would about work for me.

I really like [MENTION=44448]ToyTec Lifts[/MENTION] billet spacers, but not a fan of the raw/clear aluminum. I would probably go for it if they were anodized black [emoji41]

 

[theesotericone]

Yeah, I definitely agree with that 100% [MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION]. The shock options factor is actually pretty huge.
I guess a 3" bump stop extension would about work for me. I really like [MENTION=44448]ToyTec Lifts[/MENTION] billet spacers, but not a fan of the raw/clear aluminum. I would probably go for it if they were anodized [emoji41]

I need to add about 3" myself. I'm thinking of the Daystar's 4.5" bumps that [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] is running plus a 2" extension. That should have me bottoming the stops just a hair short of the rear wells. I also might get out the grinder to make it even more clear. lol

 

[4-Ripcord]

I need to add about 3" myself. I'm thinking of the Daystar's 4.5" bumps that [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] is running plus a 2" extension. That should have me bottoming the stops just a hair short of the rear wells. I also might get out the grinder to make it even more clear. lol

Here is a good option for 3" extended bump stops

You can get 3" Extended bump stops for less than $10. Go to a junkyard and find a 1995-2005 Chevy blazer/S10/Oldsmobile Bravada and take the rear bump stops.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/134139-junkyard-rear-bump-stops.html

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/149794382@N06/34698628804/in/album-72157682681808563/" title="20170603_101534[1]"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4212/34698628804_83b91589f9_b.jpg" width="1024" height="754" alt="20170603_101534[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[theesotericone]

Here is a good option for 3" extended bump stops

Those are a great option. I'm looking more towards something like these. Then I'll fab up a spacer. I'm pretty sure this will give me a softer cushion before I bottom out. Which is exactly what I'm looking for. I can add or decrease from the spacer as needed to find that sweet spot.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IARR90/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1DZUG4K0FCDCW&colid=2CTE0MFCF02JV

 

[AssBurns]

[MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] Don't listen to [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]. [emoji6] You can have similar droop travel while still having loads of up travel. Only thing limiting my up travel at this point is the top of the inner wheel well. Soon to be fixed. Outboard is the way to go!

Sorry for the super blurry pic but it's the only decent one showing almost full bump.

Droop too [emoji1303]

If you don't want to trim for stock bump, you can just have major droop.

 

[theesotericone]

[MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] Don't listen to [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]. [emoji6] You can have similar droop travel while still having loads of up travel. Only thing limiting my up travel at this point is the top of the inner wheel well. Soon to be fixed. Outboard is the way to go!

If you don't want to trim for stock bump, you can just have major droop.

This site kicks ass. You post an idea about someone else's setup and within 30 minutes there's photo's from that person. Love it.

So your running the Daystars with no spacer? How's bottoming out? I'm looking for a soft deceleration if I can get it.

 

[JayRolla]

This site kicks ass. You post an idea about someone else's setup and within 30 minutes there's photo's from that person. Love it.

So your running the Daystars with no spacer? How's bottoming out? I'm looking for a soft deceleration if I can get it.

I have the Daystars on a 3" spacer. They are soft and never bottom out hard like the stock ones.

They are really soft so they compress quite a bit.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=57546]4-Ripcord[/MENTION] Don't listen to [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]. [emoji6] You can have similar droop travel while still having loads of up travel. Only thing limiting my up travel at this point is the top of the inner wheel well. Soon to be fixed. Outboard is the way to go!

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji1598]
I have nothing against outboard at all! I think it's a badass setup, and definitely makes the vehicle more stable. I was only saying I don't believe you or ...Jim? have more travel than I will have. Better setup? Totally. Do I want to outboard? Yup. But strictly speaking travel- unless you go quite a bit higher or lower on the outboard mounts- the triangulated nature of the stock setup is going to have more travel. Like I said before- I could be completely wrong. But when I set my buddy's truck up outboard with 14" shocks, I really wasn't too happy with the travel. When they're so close to the tire, they have to travel so much more than when they're inboard. And I'm only taking you as serious as I expect to be taken [emoji23]
I just wanna make sure it's clear- I'm not hating on outboard setups at all! Only arguing their travel advantage [emoji6]

 

[AssBurns]

[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] Honestly I didn't even see that you tagged me until after I read it. I saw that you, rip, and Tyler were all talking about something and had to check it out because it had to be something good.

The Daystars are nice! Especially the 4-1/2" ones. They are tall and soft. They compress to about stock height so if you need spacers with stock bumps, you'll need them with these too.


[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] you are running the 4-1/2" Daystars with 3" spacers? That's gotta be like 2" away from the axle at ride height. I don't think I would like bouncing off them that often but at least they are pretty soft compared to stocks.


[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION] I'm just giving you a hard time! [emoji1589][emoji16][emoji1589]
I bet you are right about not having any more travel well maybe a little more. Possibly the same though. With those LC shocks that most folks run, they have quite a bit of droop travel. I had a set of LC shocks for like 5 days just so I could go off-roading while my 7100's were getting shipped. They flex pretty well and probably about the same amount of droop travel. But the up travel was limited and I could definitely tell I was bottoming out the shocks hard well before full bump. So according to my calculations, I have more travel now than I did with the LC shocks. It's all about that up travel!
Also another cool thing about outboard shocks is the shock has almost the same amount of stroke as wheel travel so way less stress and heat on the shocks. I'm sure you already know all about that though.


Someone with LC shocks should pull their coils and measure their travel. Both vertical and articulated. I got just over 12" vertical but no idea what the articulated travel is.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

[emoji1596][emoji1596][emoji1596]
I would like the travel info on those too! I would be pretty bummed if I got them, and they limited my up-travel. Since I'm talking about shortening my WB to gain 1" of wheel up-travel- obviously we're on the same page with being all about that up-travel! I have plenty of room in front of the tire, so if I just centered it more in the wheel opening, I could probably about stuff to stock bumps. Vertical- of course- would be a different story. I actually like the way the bumps are setup from the factory, and don't mind the hard axe bumps for articulation travel. I won't be slamming down on anything articulated at a high rate of speed, so hard bumps allow more free-travel(as I see it). I am planning on having to address the center/vertical travel bumps when I finally figure out the right shock. That might mean a LC Tokico with a lowered bottom mount. Or just go full cool-guy with an outboard setup. I'd have to have the top mounts through the floor to keep my travel though [emoji23][emoji1596]