What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Just ordered new axle seals for my front diff from Toyota, since I've gotta pull my old axles and replace them. Ordered the Napa 1258's. Also ordered new rear windshield wiper screws since my current ones are stripped and I just got my new OEM wiper in the mail the other day!
 
Installed the Icon coilovers and rear shocks/ bump stops. Had a set of RoughCountry 3" springs sitting around that went on as well. Got rid of the squat from the worn out factory springs. Have to raise the front a bit from their shipping height to level it. Waiting for the spanner wrench I ordered since it's not included with the kit. Rides better than I could have ever imagined for a 24yo truck
 

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watched my windshield crack from a rock chip. minus 35 today and I guess the heat from defroster made it go. heard this funny noise and then zing...all the way across.
kind of normal up here.....its called having an Alaska windshield....it will stay that way till spring.....meaning Im not fixing till then
 
Early Christmas for the runner, 2001 100k donor motor acquired, ordered gaskets and timing belt kit. Motor looks clean, no oil in the coolant, seems like it may have had a valve cover gasket leak in the past. Think ill just swap all gaskets on the top end, so I know it has been done, and done right..

s33uimz
 
It's been pissing down rain out this way so I haven't done anything lately. i will admit to a strange habit of swapping out my rear license plate frames depending on where I am hanging out. I have vintage Barstow and Indio frames for that part of the CA desert, Eureka for Humboldt trips, Yuba City for the Lost Sierra, even Salem Oregon for Bend or Oregon Dunes trips......keeps 'em guessing. Here is a generic 70's looking frame I came across, complete with the (now-culturally-insensitive - sry) Chop Suey font that basically says "I'm ugly". That's all I got this week....
 

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I want to replace the dimmer/rheostat switch, but can't figure out how to get the assembly off. I got the knob off, just can't seem to find some info on how to get the assembly off the backside of the bezel. Any help? thanks.
 
Valve Cover Gaskets (or how not to do it)

In an attempt to track down an oil leak I decided to redo a valve cover gasket job someone else did 7 months ago. At the time he did not do the cam plugs, half-moons or PCV so I did those, too. Turns out he also didn't use OEM parts as promised so I got everything from the dealer - even tube seals and bolt washers.

After removing the right valve cover I found a piece of the gasket still attached to the surface. It matched a piece missing from the gasket. I'd like to think this was part of my leak but is it possible that it was torn during removal?

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I also replaced the PCV valve and grommet. While cleaning up the cover, I was poking around in the hole with a stick wrapped in a shop towel trying to clean what I could out of that area. I felt a little panicked when I knocked something loose. Turns out it was an old grommet that someone had just left in there. I don't think the guy 7 months ago had the grommet off since he didn't replace the valve so I can't blame him.

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Having gotten the right side buttoned up in just over 2 hours I moved on to the driver side, expecting trouble. I was getting close to losing daylight, too. Turns out it wasn't that bad. Got it put back together, connected a few things and sat back and enjoyed a cigarette.

I walked in to the garage to round up the plenum gaskets and found them right where I'd left them - sitting next to the 2nd valve cover gasket. F#@k!!! I could've sworn I remembered putting that thing in place. It had been 20 minutes since I'd tightened down the bolts. I removed the cover again, faster this time, scraped the surface areas clean and reapplied FIPG in the appropriate places. But I didn't pull the cam plug or half-moons, thinking, hell, I don't know what I was thinking.

By the time I got the bolts tightened back down and the lower plenum bolts torqued, it was too dark to continue so I decided to finish up tomorrow. At least this gives the FIPG 15 hours to fully set. But I'm really second guessing the decision to not clean up the plug and moons. Ugh.

Aside from noticing the gasket before everything was reassembled, the best part of the day was not having that prop rod in my way. Thanks Leon and Spiker Engineering!
 
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Valve Cover Gaskets (or how not to do it)

In an attempt to track down an oil leak I decided to redo a valve cover gasket job someone else did 7 months ago. At the time he did not do the cam plugs, half-moons or PCV so I did those, too. Turns out he also didn't use OEM parts as promised so I got everything from the dealer - even tube seals and bolt washers.

After removing the right valve cover I found a piece of the gasket still attached to the surface. It matched a piece missing from the gasket. I'd like to think this was part of my leak but is it possible that it was torn during removal?

I also replaced the PCV valve and grommet. While cleaning up the cover, I was poking around in the hole with a stick wrapped in a shop towel trying to clean what I could out of that area. I felt a little panicked when I knocked something loose. Turns out it was an old grommet that someone had just left in there. I don't think the guy 7 months ago had the grommet off since he didn't replace the valve so I can't blame him.

It's more likely that it tore during removal than due to faulty installation. As you said those are definitely not OEM. Judging solely on color I would say they are felpro gaskets.

It's also possible that the old grommet piece was left by the previous "mechanic". I say "mechanic" because he gives the rest of us a bad name.
 
...It's also possible that the old grommet piece was left by the previous "mechanic". I say "mechanic" because he gives the rest of us a bad name.

That "mechanic" is the reason I started buying tools and learning to do things myself. I was ready to order the aircabinman kit and everything else from the dealer but the guy said he'd only warranty the work if he got OEM parts from his own suppliers. I found out later that he charged me $389 for an Autozone timing belt kit. I may be making mistakes but at least I'm doing it myself, with OEM parts, and nothing has exploded yet! As usual, I owe a huge thank you to this forum and Tim (and Sean!).
 
That "mechanic" is the reason I started buying tools and learning to do things myself. I was ready to order the aircabinman kit and everything else from the dealer but the guy said he'd only warranty the work if he got OEM parts from his own suppliers. I found out later that he charged me $389 for an Autozone timing belt kit. I may be making mistakes but at least I'm doing it myself, with OEM parts, and nothing has exploded yet! As usual, I owe a huge thank you to this forum and Tim (and Sean!).

Hey, you want a FREE tech school education? I'll tell you 100% of everything I learned at mine, all ~$30,000 worth.

Read the service manual.

I'm dead serious, that constitutes 100% of what I learned. If you can read a manual and apply that to your vehicle, you're ahead of an easy 60% of "paid mechanics" out here in the world. The rest of my schooling was applying that one lesson to physical examples. And *I* started turning wrench because it was the Only way I could afford to keep a vehicle going.
 
Hey, you want a FREE tech school education? I'll tell you 100% of everything I learned at mine, all ~$30,000 worth.

Read the service manual.

I'm dead serious, that constitutes 100% of what I learned. If you can read a manual and apply that to your vehicle, you're ahead of an easy 60% of "paid mechanics" out here in the world. The rest of my schooling was applying that one lesson to physical examples. And *I* started turning wrench because it was the Only way I could afford to keep a vehicle going.

I became more comfortable with the manual once I'd actually tackled a couple jobs on my own. And by "on my own" I mean after reading tons of posts and watching Tim's LBJ video a dozen times and working off copious notes!

At first I found the manual pretty intimidating, especially with all the $800 SSTs. Then I found out a 2x4 with a couple holes drilled into it could be an SST! (although I did buy actual crank and cam shaft holder tools)

But yes, those books contain a wealth of knowledge!
 
Replaced the hood release cable - Dorman one is slightly different at the release handle end but it works.

Rewired the foglight circuit to turn on only with the highbeams. Although my LED light bar was already wired to turn on with the highbeams only (relay connected to the headlight highbeam circuit), I wanted to have an additional switch so the bar won't be on during the day when flashing the highs or at night where the headlights' highbeams are sufficient. My original fog lights were no good anyway.
 
First set of M/T tires and 231mm TBU!

I went with the PowerStop kit from Amazon for the 231mm Tundra brake upgrade, also upgraded the hose to stainless steel while I was there. The brakes have been great; they feel a lot stiffer than I expected, which I guess is a good thing? They're super smooth though, much nicer than the rotors that were on there.

I went with the Milestar Patagonia 265/75r16's and I've been really impressed with them. They are my first set of M/T tires and they ride smoother than the cheap all-terrains I've used in the past. They do have road noise but it's really not noticeable unless you have the radio/AC off and are listening for it. They rub a tiny bit at full lock in some situations, but I'm also running the 2nd gen taco "snowflake" wheels, so that might mess with the spacing.

I got them stuck once, trying to crawl up a hill made of loose dirt right after it had rained, in 4HI, and at 34psi. So not really the fault of the tires :D I'm excited to get them out on more trails though!
 

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Tearing down my old engine to harvest the wiring harness and a few parts for the engine swap. Anyone need top end parts? camshafts looks great, One of the heads is cracked but the other looks fine. Going to tear down the new donor motor tomorrow and get it ready for new top end gaskets coming monday. Unfortunately rain is forecasted for the rest of the week starting tuesday.. the swap will have to wait for a while. Any ideas on what to do in the meantime?
 
Got the midcoma rear disc conversion installed, well most of it. Just need to do the parking brake stuff tomorrow. Damn stuff is wicked. Brake bleeding went smoothly. Rear bearings and retainers and seals went smoothly. So nice not having drums anymore.

Now I don't remember if my pedal did this before, but with engine off the pedal is solid, rock hard (w/disc's on all 4 corners). With the engine running, it is firm then starts to sink. I don't recall if it did this before I did all this brake stuff. 231's up front, mustangs in the rear. I have a feeling its the booster as the pedal is rock hard with the engine off. If its the master it would do it with the engine off and running.

Also looking at swapping masters too, either a f350 or a caddy es-kool-aid. All depends how it feels when driving it.
 

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