wobbly steering wheel TE? should I upgrade?

I had this same issue on my 15 trail. Steering wheel shake between 55-62mph . It started when I put 265 KO2s on it when the truck had about 5k miles. I had every balance and test done. Eventually on the third trip to the dealer, they determined it was the tires, and replaced them all under BFGs warranty.

About 2k miles into my second set of KO2s it started happening again.

Balanced, road force balanced. Went away for a few weeks.

Came back.

This last time I went in for a service, they rotated my tires. After they rotated them they had a tire tech drive it with me in the truck. Of course he thought I was crazy since it didn't shake after the rotation. Zero vibration ever since.

Such a pain in the ass to have a brand new truck do something like this.
 
no I actually bought my current TE about 100 miles away. they give me great deals but the only problem is when I need service or warranty work I go local and they charge me 100 dollar deductible for warranty work but If i drove it back up to the dealer I bought it from there would be no deductible. That part kind of sucks so ive thought about buying local and not traveling to my favorite dealer. No dealers around here will give me a deal like the out of town guys will. usually its a minimum of 1000 dollars cheaper to go to the out of town dealer and their service is impeccable. its just the drive which is a bit of a hassle.

$100 deductible for warranty work?!! That's bullshit right there.
 
I was not thrilled about the 100 dollar deductible either... I thought it was normal haha. I guess I need to find a good service dealer here in Houston as Im not thrilled with Joe Myers Toyota. they did fix the problem for now. I'm on the fence about a new 2017... I could take the extra 15-20k to get me in one and put a little money beefing up this front end if it will make it not so finicky. My FZJ80 with hummer beadlocks and 37" MTRs didnt vibrate like this at the wheel and that wheel/tire setup is truly impossible to balance haha.
 
I had 3 vehicles on my list before deciding to get a 4Runner. The 4Runner won because I knew it was the most practical. Believe it or not I'd have been perfectly happy with #2 as well. Even with that option I'd beat someones ass if they couldn't figure out how to balance tires and ended up giving me the run around. :)

1). Rubicon Hard Rock
2). 1980's Toyota HJ60
3). 4Runner TEP

I was not thrilled about the 100 dollar deductible either... I thought it was normal haha. I guess I need to find a good service dealer here in Houston as Im not thrilled with Joe Myers Toyota. they did fix the problem for now. I'm on the fence about a new 2017... I could take the extra 15-20k to get me in one and put a little money beefing up this front end if it will make it not so finicky. My FZJ80 with hummer beadlocks and 37" MTRs didnt vibrate like this at the wheel and that wheel/tire setup is truly impossible to balance haha.
 
no I actually bought my current TE about 100 miles away. they give me great deals but the only problem is when I need service or warranty work I go local and they charge me 100 dollar deductible for warranty work but If i drove it back up to the dealer I bought it from there would be no deductible.

$100 deductible for warranty work?!! That's bullshit right there.

Not necessarily. OP is outside the OE wty, so he probably refers to some extended warranty, whether Toyota or 3rd party we don't know. It's not unusual for extended wtys to have a deductible.

This; "If i drove it back up to the dealer I bought it from there would be no deductible" sounds like a 3rd party wty (to me).

Hopefully the OP has READ his warranty ... my Toyota EW has $0 deductible at any dealer. OP may be getting hosed, but then again maybe not.
 
I had this issue and got rid of it by getting my wheels balanced at Discount Tire with them using the Toyota/Lexus adapter plate. I assume the dealership would have their machine dialed in for Toyota's but its another place to start. See if they can get them balanced right but ask if they use and have that plate.
 
well the vibration has come back... ugh

Just to add some additional, and probably more confusing, information to your equation:

I have a 2012 Trail Edition that came with Bridgestone Dueler H/T tires, possibly the worst, and most dangerous, tires I have ever had on a vehicle. I drove on them for 2-3k miles and then had them replaced. The vibration started with the OEM tires (Bridgestone Dueler H/Ts). It would happen on the highway right around 60-65 MPH and could be pretty intense. I took them back to the dealer and had them check the balance and alignment which they claimed were fine. Since I knew I was going to get rid of the tires anyway I just waited to see.

Well, I replaced the horrible Dueler tires with BFG Rugged Terrain T/As in stock size and went ahead and got MB Stryker wheels as well. The vibration was still there but it happened more around 65-70 MPH. So, after having Discount Tire balance them again twice, second time with the road force balancing, the vibration almost completely went away, just the occasional minor shudder on the highway. Now, four years later, the BFGs have close to 50k miles on them. While they still have some tread life left they are starting to get kind of chunked up around the edges. I run them at a consistent 32 PSI cold for a little softer ride so they wear a bit more to the outside. Anyway, the vibration had come back for the last 2k miles or so around 60-65 MPH, but not as intense as it was originally. Last week I had the Toytec Boss suspension kit and SPC Light Racing UCAs installed and that seemed to tighten up the front end quite a bit. So now, with the BFGs there is only the slightest vibration, again at around 60 MPH. The BFGs are getting replaced later this week with some new Cooper AT3s in C rated 275/70/17 size, so we will see what effect that has.

Bottom line, there are many variables that seem to come into play with this issue and tires, wheels and balancing play a big part in the overall ride quality. A heavier, stiffer suspension seems to make quite a bit of difference as well. I have to say I like the way the truck looks and feels quite a bit better with the new suspension anyway and wish I had done it a long time ago. I would personally stick with your existing vehicle if you still like it otherwise and try working on the tires and suspension to see if you can't get rid of the shakes. Of course, if you really would prefer the newer version and have the funds then go that route. Either way sticking with a 4Runner is the important thing, it is the best SUV on the market for the money easily.
 
Well i found out my procomps are not hub centric. this may be my issue, I think im going to move to a set of the new TRD wheels... Also i've decided to keep this truck. the extended warranty will be expiring next year and im hoping URD will have their supercharger kit out by then hahaha.
 
Well i found out my procomps are not hub centric. this may be my issue, I think im going to move to a set of the new TRD wheels... Also i've decided to keep this truck. the extended warranty will be expiring next year and im hoping URD will have their supercharger kit out by then hahaha.

I read the top of this post and was just about to post a response and tell you that you need to verify matching center bores. Procomp is generally junk anyway. Personally, I won't run a wheel that does not have a matching center bore. I don't really trust the rings/spacers. Get a wheel that is made for the truck...
 

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