jross20
New member
Alright I'll have to try that next time I get down there.
Here is some of my work from today
Last edited:
POR-15 or just Fluid Film
- Thread starter Sarki
- Start date
Alright I'll have to try that next time I get down there.
Here is some of my work from today
Kanoe
New member
Alright I'll have to try that next time I get down there.
Here is some of my work from today
That looks nice and clean. I wouldn't expect to find much rust on that one. Nice job!
jross20
New member
Oh this was after cleaning with acetone and then 2-3 coats of chassis paint. Before it was just an ugly black-gray. Only tiny tiny spots here and there with surface rust.
[MENTION=388984]jross20[/MENTION] . Just curious what's on that frame? Just paint or some rubberized undercoating. I can see areas where the surface painted surface changes and was just wondering.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
It's semi gloss chassis paint from summit racing. Their own brand. So far whatever I've painted with it has stayed nice and black. There is some strange stuff on the frame already, I wasn't sure what it was.
The plugs I bought from ebay didn't work. It was so tight I couldn't plug the circle holes lol.
Anyways here's some after pics I took after driving it home after the motorcity auto spa place did a wonderful job detailing my car full interior and exterior, I provided them a gallon of fluid film, angle grinder with wire brush cups, fluid film gallon kit.
They did the underbody detail and painted it POR15, then sprayed it all with fluid film after. Ready for the winter!!!
They are supposed to text me after pics while it was up in the hoist so I'll post better ones once I receive them.
Attachments
brillo_76
Elite Member
POR 15 is the older formula. I used both and I perfer KBS seal over the POR15.
Reasons:
1] Newer formula with UV light protection in the paint.
2] costs less then POR 15.
Just make sure you prep the metal correctly or it will rust underneath the paint coating.
That's my opinion anyhow.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
POR 15 is the older formula. I used both and I perfer KBS seal over the POR15.
Internal frame
1.) Power wash and clean all the dirt and debris you possible can get out of the frame you get out.
2.) Being scaling will be taking place. you need penetrating oils etc on the steel. FF will cover steel but will not penetrate the scale. (FF is good for a Top coat on a rusted frame especially if scaling is occurring)
3.) Use penetrating oils or fluids to coat the inside of your frame. A million choices here. Examples: Used Transmission fluid, WD-40, PB Blaster. Anything that penetrates and will seal the oxygen off the steel. So rusting will slow down and stop.
4.) Topcoat with FF or anything similar that will creep around inside the frame. Cosomoline, Woolswax whatever works for you.
External frame and underside:
1.) Power wash and clean all the dirt and debris off.
2.) Descale everything you can. Wire wheel etc. Get all the scale off and loose rust.
3.) This phase I am still experimenting on. Use a good Rust inhibitor on the steel to seal it off. Do not just primer and paint. it will just rust through that in the rust belt. I don't care what kind of paint its not going to seal it good enough.
Right now I am experimenting with Corroseal as my rust inhibitor layer. As its a metal etcher and sealer as one. I will not know how it holds up for a year or 2.
Even KBS seal will rust through if the metal wasn't peeped properly. They all will.. That part of the key is getting the metal clean and prepped to seal properly which is extremely hard to do upside down and underneath a car..;-)
4.) The topcoat can be whatever works for you paint, FF film wool-wax. Comeliness.
Note: (FF will not stay in fender wheels or areas that see a lot of pressure washing style actions) So either touch up every year or find something that better for that area.
__________________
Thanks Brillo, I was actually going to follow what you said over in the "Frame Rust Prevention" Thread.
rickashay
New member
I live in Canada and have been building Toyota trucks for close to 15 years. I am very OCD and rust is not an option.
I have been using Fluid Film for about 12 years and every November I buy 2x spray cans of fluid film and have typically enough to coat the frame and suspension components. If it's a bad winter with a lot of freeze/thaw cycles I will often re-coat with a single can in January or february. This method has worked great and I am proud to say that my Toyota's are always rust free. Downsides are that your frame remains kind of "greasy" for ever but usually by the spring most of it has washed away.
I have also coated several of my frames with POR15, and although I think it is a decent product, I would not rely on it to keep rust away. For rust prevention alone, my vote still goes to fluid film. My $0.02
I have been using Fluid Film for about 12 years and every November I buy 2x spray cans of fluid film and have typically enough to coat the frame and suspension components. If it's a bad winter with a lot of freeze/thaw cycles I will often re-coat with a single can in January or february. This method has worked great and I am proud to say that my Toyota's are always rust free. Downsides are that your frame remains kind of "greasy" for ever but usually by the spring most of it has washed away.
I have also coated several of my frames with POR15, and although I think it is a decent product, I would not rely on it to keep rust away. For rust prevention alone, my vote still goes to fluid film. My $0.02
brillo_76
Elite Member
Like I stated many times. Its your rig and do as you wish.
Many ways to accomplish the same thing. The goal is to not have the frame rust. ;-) I just offer opinions based on what I have done and seen. The interesting part is that the Rust prevention varies widely because of the environment your in.So what works in AZ may not work in FL. What works in PA maybe different then WA and what works in Maine maybe great for Canada.. ;-)
Plus what the condition of the steel is when you start treatment plans vary the results as well.
Hitmanhink
New member
Wow great thread! Lots of good feedback here. I’m bringing my ‘05 from CA over to NY next month and definitely want to get this thing as protected as possible. Good to know about the potential challenges with welding, but I don’t foresee that being a necessity. Since my rig is coming from CA there’s not much rust but some on the exhaust and some minor spots elsewhere. I’m trying to decide if I should start with Por15 straight off the bat, even though there’s not much rust, but then follow up with FF as annual maintenance.. that kinda seems to be the overwhelming positive response for those of you commenting from the Northeast part of the rust belt. Anybody have issues starting with Por15 then using FF on top of that?
If there’s no rust and coming from west coast I would say you’ll be fine just going with an annual application of Fluid Film, WD-40 or whatever product you choose.
I don’t see the need for POR-15 or similar since you’re starting with a clean rust free vehicle.
I would use Eastwood Epoxy primer rather than POR-15. POR is a good product but very finicky and often comes off in flakes, taking the fluid film on top of it with it if the application is not done just right. Fluid film is very effective but since you've got some bare spots, I'd hit the whole undercarriage with the Epoxy primer in a can, then paint with topcoat of your choice, then fluid film. It will look a ton better plus offer better protection.
