2010,2011,2012 4runner Dual Battery (Tray$25, no Power Steering Reservoir relocation)

[johnnywofee]

Fuse Box

I will not unplug the passenger seat or take it out of the original position.

I intend to slide in the plastic box under the passenger seat ONLY. The box will not be fixed under the seat. If I need to replace a broken fuse, I will need to slide it out from there everytime.

For the 110V convertor ventilation issue, I have to think about it. The good thing is , my 110V accessories would be a laptop only.

Please give more ideas. Thanks.

 

[mace.]

To be honest I think this is a horrible idea. Without having the box bolted down it is going to slide around under there making it extremely prone to wire chaffing and more likely of getting snagged in the seat track or mechanism. I really don't see this as a safe solution.

 

[limamike]

[MENTION=87810]johnnywofee[/MENTION], I think I'm missing something on the fuse box idea. What's your plan to ground your accessories?

 

[mace.]

I would think a fuse block with a negative bus might be the way to go.

 

[Antman]

I would think a fuse block with a negative bus might be the way to go.

Why? You can pick up a ground almost anywhere on the metal body. There are hundreds of factory ground locations as well if you want to use one of those.
Unless you are dealing with something like a boat, where every ground has to go to the battery, the negative bus is simply redundant IMO.

FWIW- My fusebox does have the negative bus- but only because that's all that was in stock at the time...

 

[mace.]

[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] I totally agree with you. I should have been more clear that I was thinking that for this situation. I was just thinking that this may have been the simpler solution, like not bolting the fuse box down.

 

[limamike]

I agree as well, [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]. I should have completed my thought, and it's similar to what [MENTION=77504]mace.[/MENTION] was thinking: I find it's easier to ground everything in once place than have to ensure each ground works well and troubleshoot potential issues later.

 

[jrandom]

One ground to rule them all:fencing:

 

[Antman]

One ground to rule them all:fencing:

In my experience, 1 ground = lots of noise (when noise matters).

 

[jrandom]

Just wanted to use a bastardized Highlander quote. Not many automobiles since 1965 with one ground.

...and yes you sir are correct. When noise matters IMO one typically create a whole new sub-system for auditory pleasure. It really makes no sense to wire out lights, 12v cooler, anything with a motor in it to anything that will transmit or receive an auditory signal.

 

[johnnywofee]

Fuse Box Location

Dear Guys,

Thank you for your valuable ideas. I never think about those potential issues (e.g. ground, safety, bolt down fuse box...).

In summary, there are some potential problem if I install the fuse box under the passenger seat. It should not be recommended.

Is there any other place which I can install fuse box inside the car compartment? Anyone has experience to install fuse box inside the vehicle?

For ground connection, it can be done either running a ground wire from engine bay (aux battery -ve terminal) to the fuse box (inside the car) Or find a proper ground point near the fuse box.

Pls give ideas and/or your experience of the options available. Thx.

 

[Antman]

Dear Guys,

Thank you for your valuable ideas. I never think about those potential issues (e.g. ground, safety, bolt down fuse box...).

In summary, there are some potential problem if I install the fuse box under the passenger seat. It should not be recommended.

Is there any other place which I can install fuse box inside the car compartment? Anyone has experience to install fuse box inside the vehicle?

For ground connection, it can be done either running a ground wire from engine bay (aux battery -ve terminal) to the fuse box (inside the car) Or find a proper ground point near the fuse box.

Pls give ideas and/or your experience of the options available. Thx.

Ground wires should be as short as possible under most circumstances.

I think a good spot inside the vehicle would be on top of the driver's side rear wheel well under the plastic storage tray. I have a distribution lug under there for +12v power and it's easy to get to, yet secure.

The more I think about it though, I'm pretty happy with my fuse box under the hood!

 

[harper7]

Dear Guys,

Thank you for your valuable ideas. I never think about those potential issues (e.g. ground, safety, bolt down fuse box...).

In summary, there are some potential problem if I install the fuse box under the passenger seat. It should not be recommended.

Is there any other place which I can install fuse box inside the car compartment? Anyone has experience to install fuse box inside the vehicle?

For ground connection, it can be done either running a ground wire from engine bay (aux battery -ve terminal) to the fuse box (inside the car) Or find a proper ground point near the fuse box.

Pls give ideas and/or your experience of the options available. Thx.

You don't have in your signature or mention what model 4Runner you have.:doh: I have a LE 4x4 and in the center console,underneath the electric 4x4 switch is where I put a Blue Sea fuse block that has a negative bus. Blue Sea Systems as there is plenty of room under that center console if no 4x4 shifter.I have 2 extra dual usb chargers,12v outlets,extra LEDs and power antennas off that.

I also have a Painless 7 circuit fuse block Painless Performance under the hood for external lights,compressor,siren ,horns,isolator ect. and I run all my radios straight to one of my batteries with their own seperate fuses and grounds.

As Antman mentioned there is room in the back on top of the wheel wells with access once you mod those to come off easily and I have another BS fuse box that will go there someday for more lights in the rear.

IMO ,when you run smaller wires for low power accessories it's easier for me to just get dual wires that have a pos. and neg wire together and run them to a fuse block that has a negative bus,like the blue sea rather then one wire to the block and another to a ground block or body.
If I'm running higher amperage, bigger wires like outside lights,compressor ect then I run a pos from the 7 circuit block and the neg to a grounding stud on my firewall that is grounded straight from the batteries,body and frame.

 

[johnnywofee]

You don't have in your signature or mention what model 4Runner you have.:doh: I have a LE 4x4 and in the center console,underneath the electric 4x4 switch is where I put a Blue Sea fuse block that has a negative bus. Blue Sea Systems as there is plenty of room under that center console if no 4x4 shifter.I have 2 extra dual usb chargers,12v outlets,extra LEDs and power antennas off that.

I also have a Painless 7 circuit fuse block Painless Performance under the hood for external lights,compressor,siren ,horns,isolator ect. and I run all my radios straight to one of my batteries with their own seperate fuses and grounds.

As Antman mentioned there is room in the back on top of the wheel wells with access once you mod those to come off easily and I have another BS fuse box that will go there someday for more lights in the rear.

IMO ,when you run smaller wires for low power accessories it's easier for me to just get dual wires that have a pos. and neg wire together and run them to a fuse block that has a negative bus,like the blue sea rather then one wire to the block and another to a ground block or body.
If I'm running higher amperage, bigger wires like outside lights,compressor ect then I run a pos from the 7 circuit block and the neg to a grounding stud on my firewall that is grounded straight from the batteries,body and frame.

Those are valuable experience of installation fuse box. Thank You.

My 4runner is 2010 Limited Model which there is a rotary switch (select 4X4) near the centre console. The centre console and the back on top of the wheel wells are good locations to consider for fuse box, great !

Sorry I am not a tech guy to modify/install mechanical stuffs. I will need to have a complete picture before I go ahead to purchase the expensive battery.

Thank you guys !

 

[johnnywofee]

Dual Battery Alternative Solution

Hi,

This is not a perfect solution but it could be an alternative solution. There are so many smart battery charger in the market, meanwhile, our 4runner can provide 110V AC power inside the vehicle.

Would the following diagram provide an alternative solution (not a very good solution but very simple setup and cheaper) ?

Please comment about this.



p.s. Known constraints are : (under passenger seat storage for battery fuse box are not good)

 

[mace.]

No offense but this seems like the worst idea yet. You can't just have the battery and fuse box just loose in the truck. Also you can't count on the clamps holding onto the terminals with normal vehicle vibrations. Those things will be flopping off all the time. You need to put that battery in a box so other loose item in the vehicle don't hit the terminals.

With plenty of room under the hood why wouldn't you just put the battery and fuse box there?

In my opinion, this solution (cheapest & easiest) is not worth doing at all. It's not safe and will probably cause more problems and inconvenience than its worth.

Edit: Do you really need a second battery at this point? There are plenty of people getting by just fine with one. Maybe consider just installing a fuse block on your single battery and wire it so it's only getting power when the ignition is on. Pick up one of those portable jump starter packs for emergencies.

 

[johnnywofee]

Dual Battery Setup

Thank You thank you.

The reasons why I need the dual battery is to power LED lights, small accessories (cell phone, dvd player, laptop...). Those are the things for camping/road trip for 3-5 hrs usage (engine off) a day when I stay in campsite. Certainly, the aux battery can be a back up for the main battery in case of emergency.

With you guys valuable ideas and practical on the road experience, I will go for battery, isolator and fuse box installation inside engine compartment!

Thank You !!!

 

[Okki]

THIS:
Goal Zero Yeti 150 & Escape 30 Solar Briefcase Kit | | Goal Zero

Serves your purpose, safe, portable, multiple charging options. plug and play.


or if you want to play in the big boy league:
http://www.goalzero.com/p/167/goal-zero-yeti-400-solar-generator-kit/27:3/
Goal Zero Yeti 400 Solar Generator Kit

Okki

 

[johnnywofee]

Dual Battery Alternatives

I also did some research work on 2nd power supply alternatives. There are some good solutions in the market e.g. Goal Zero Sherpa 120.

Meanwhile, I also bought some good gadgets which I can store them under the passenger seat (a place fits thin format factor device). I store my Cobra Jumpstart CJS50 (it provides emergency, 12V, LED lights) under the passenger seat. I connect its 110V transformer to 110V outlet so that it can be charged when engine is on.

The reason why I consider to add 2nd battery since I want to supply aux power (e.g. 3W LEDs X 8, Cell phone, Laptop accessories, Wifi Router, Tablets, DVD, 12V electric blanket.....) for the whole night camping at camp site.

Some people install a real auxiliary battery (e.g. Odyssey PC1200, Die Hard, Optima...), I think you guys really need hard core solutions for winch, heavy duty light bars, high power amplifier, fridge, CB radio, long hrs of high power light... Right?

 

[limamike]

I also did some research work on 2nd power supply alternatives. There are some good solutions in the market e.g. Goal Zero Sherpa 120.

Meanwhile, I also bought some good gadgets which I can store them under the passenger seat (a place fits thin format factor device). I store my Cobra Jumpstart CJS50 (it provides emergency, 12V, LED lights) under the passenger seat. I connect its 110V transformer to 110V outlet so that it can be charged when engine is on.

The reason why I consider to add 2nd battery since I want to supply aux power (e.g. 3W LEDs X 8, Cell phone, Laptop accessories, Wifi Router, Tablets, DVD, 12V electric blanket.....) for the whole night camping at camp site.

Some people install a real auxiliary battery (e.g. Odyssey PC1200, Die Hard, Optima...), I think you guys really need hard core solutions for winch, heavy duty light bars, high power amplifier, fridge, CB radio, long hrs of high power light... Right?

I installed a secondary battery primarily as a backup. I thought of accessories second in that equation, but I do have all of my accessories wired to my backup (anyone who wants to debate the merits of wiring accessories to aux vs main is welcome to reply below).

That said, for $450 if your goal is utilizing power in and around the truck or a camp site close to your truck for a night or so, the Goal Zero products are good for that, but you can certainly do it for cheaper on your own. I'll make the disclaimer that I own a Goal Zero: Yeti 1250, a Yeti 400, the Guide 10 solar kit, and about 200 watts of Goal Zero solar panels. I think they make great products that haven't failed me yet, but you do pay a premium for the package. If you are camping *in* your truck then a standard dual battery setup would be just fine after you wired-in the battery and some accessories. If you actually sleep in a tent or away from your vehicle then you're better off with the Goal Zero (or like) products.

If you can clarify your concept of operation or use case a bit I think we might be able to narrow down our advice. But, basically, if you're looking for portable power the Goal Zero stuff will suit you just fine. If you're looking for vehicle-based power then a dual battery will likely be your best bet in the long run.