2013 TE Stereo build

jarbroen

New member
Howdy guys, or should I say wazzzzzzuuuuupppppp.

I picked up a 4runner 3 weeks ago and already have most of the stereo installed... It helps that I pulled most of the gear out of the F150 I traded in.
By the way, I was a little leery giving up the bed and towing capacity of my F150 but I really love the 4runner!

Before I even purchased the 4R I knew it would need stereo work. I've done systems from basic to crazy in almost all my vehicles. I'm not an audiophile but I'm very picky about what I hear.

Anyway, I decided (well, my wife did) that we should keep the stock head unit. The integrated features are really nice and I like how everything fits the dash. Plus, the Fischer Price resolution screen makes it really easy to hit buttons in a bouncy truck. We had a nice Kenwood Nav unit in the F150 and hated how hard it was to use the touch screen.
Since we're keeping the HU I needed a processor. In the old days I would have used a LOC and called it good. Now that processors are readily available, inexpensive and feature rich it's a no brainer.
Picked up the Audison Bit Ten and I'm really liking it so far.

I'll start with the rear hatch build pictures. I decided the slide out tray could go and I could fit my amps in that space. I also wanted to keep it level with the seats when they were folded down. My dad came over a couple Saturdays ago and helped me build the false floor. He's been an electrician/finish carpenter/contractor forever and does awesome work. So if the floor looks good I can't take much credit. Ok, I did glue the carpet and was the lovely assistant...

Started with a bare floor and chipped away the factory asphault (or whatever it is). I replaced it with Raammat butyl sound deadener(which I forgot to take pictures of).


And here's the false floor bottom. 1/2" plywood base and 3/4" plywood for the risers.
 
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Here's the rack installed with my amps, distribution block and Bit Ten mounted. I used 2 factory bolts to hold the rack down.


Next is the floor cover. Also made from 1/2" Birch cabinet plywood.

I covered it with trunk liner I picked up from a local supplier.

Here's the hatch area with the Weathertech liner down.
 
In the front doors I installed the Rainbow Profi Kick 6.5" speakers I pulled from my truck. I've tried many different midwoofers and these are by far my favorite.
Made 1" thick spacers using King Starboard from Tap.


The dash spot gets Hybrid Audio Technologies L3SE. The Rainbow set has an awesome 1" tweeter I could have used but I've really wanted to try the L3SE. I've run other setups with 3" and 4" mids and really like how they pull the stage up. Plus, they let the Kicks do what they do best and kick!


Getting those 3.5" speakers in the dash was the most tedious part of the install. I spent the good part of last Saturday messing with brackets and trimming the covers to get those in there.
I'm not 100% I like how the're mounted. I might end up fiberglassing something to the bottom of the speaker covers. I want to stay away from a-pillar builds this time... keeping things factory looking plus the factory replacements are $70 each!

After some tuning and matching levels Monday every thing sounds good. I still have some EQ'ing to do. Have some sharpness from the dash speakers. I'm hoping I can tune it out rather than needing to change my install.

Sub - I haven't quite figured out yet. I have a 10" sub with box from my truck I can use temporarily. I'm debating whether I make a cube type box for that to sit behind the seats. Or if I get an 8" and glass it into the passenger side cubby in the back.
 
WOW!!! Coming along just fine I see, can't wait for the finished product to emerge! But then again...once you start modifying stuff, "THERE IS NO FINISH!"

Rigtec, best regards.
 
Thanks guys!

I installed Dynamat Hood liner last night. Put a layer of sound deadener on the hood first.
It's a lot or solid when you close it. Haven't tested the noise reduction yet.
 
I'm 99% sure I'm going with a 10 or 12 against the back seat. I was plotting out the space last night and I can build a 1cuft angled box that shouldn't take up too much floor space.
And make it easy to remove.

The glassed in 8 idea sounded cool but it's a lot of work and I'm concerned I wouldn't be happy with the output.

Plus, I have a sheet of really nice Baltic Birch plywood waiting in my garage...
 
After lots of himming and hawwing I picked this up on the way home.




IDQ12 v3

In the past I've had an ID 10 and an Arc 12(made by Image Dynamics). Always wanted to try the IDQ line. Almost went with an IDMAX but I didn't like the space and power requirements. Plus, it was a couple hundred more.

Hopefully I'll have time this weekend to build a box.
 
Nice clean install dude, I like it! Have you thought about sticking the sub along the left or right side of the trunk and building a box that straddles the wheelwell?
 
Thanks!
I did consider that.
The problem with the right side is the 12v and 112v outlets. The left side doesn't have as much room.
Plus, I'm planning on making this easy to remove. Something I can pop out really quick if we're hauling with the seats down or need the room for camping.
 
Thanks!

Spent most of yesterday building a box for the sub. Always takes 3x as long as I'd think...
Tonight I need to seal it and possibly get the carpet on.
I'll take a picture before I seal it up.
 
In the front doors I installed the Rainbow Profi Kick 6.5" speakers I pulled from my truck. I've tried many different midwoofers and these are by far my favorite.
Made 1" thick spacers using King Starboard from Tap.


The dash spot gets Hybrid Audio Technologies L3SE. The Rainbow set has an awesome 1" tweeter I could have used but I've really wanted to try the L3SE. I've run other setups with 3" and 4" mids and really like how they pull the stage up. Plus, they let the Kicks do what they do best and kick!


Getting those 3.5" speakers in the dash was the most tedious part of the install. I spent the good part of last Saturday messing with brackets and trimming the covers to get those in there.
I'm not 100% I like how the're mounted. I might end up fiberglassing something to the bottom of the speaker covers. I want to stay away from a-pillar builds this time... keeping things factory looking plus the factory replacements are $70 each!

After some tuning and matching levels Monday every thing sounds good. I still have some EQ'ing to do. Have some sharpness from the dash speakers. I'm hoping I can tune it out rather than needing to change my install.

Sub - I haven't quite figured out yet. I have a 10" sub with box from my truck I can use temporarily. I'm debating whether I make a cube type box for that to sit behind the seats. Or if I get an 8" and glass it into the passenger side cubby in the back.

Been sitting and watching for awhile now. Very nice! How are those really fine HAT's doing in the dash. Tweeter needed or is the high end fine the way it is? I don't like A-pillar tweeter placements especially when the in dash and off the glass placement on the 4Runner seems to work really well and was tempted to fabricate a dash spot for a tweeter. Not too many 3 1/2" speaker options available. Currently running Infinity Kappas and I'm pleasantly surprised. For the price and with proper tuning, they work quite well but I'm Jonesing for alternatives.

My setup is 2010 Trail with Nav and JBL Premium. Kept the head unit and tapped the speaker outputs on the JBL amp feeding a Helix PDSP (poor mans Bit 1). Then to a 4 channel and 5 channel Helix amp.

The HATS you got are a little pricey for me. If and when I pull the trigger, will probably go with the V2s and not the SEs.

Keep up the good work!
 
I've had 3" 'full range' speakers before and felt like a tweeter was needed. Not with the HAT's though. I actually had to tune down the top a bit. Not sure if it's window reflections or what I had some harshness that was cured by dropping 3db or so at 12k and 14k.
I like the dash spot as it really helps keep the image up. Especially since the door speakers are crossed at 250 on the high end.

I wouldn't pay full price for the L3SE - to pricey to justify. I found a slightly used set for $325. Even that's on the upper end of what I like to spend for drivers. Fortunately, I didn't have to buy amps or other speakers so that left some play money.

I'd check the high end extension on the V2, I can't remember if those are supposed to have the same upper end resolution.

Thanks!
 
Thanks!

Spent most of yesterday building a box for the sub. Always takes 3x as long as I'd think...
Tonight I need to seal it and possibly get the carpet on.
I'll take a picture before I seal it up.

Hey jarbroen,

Just chimed in to say..."You got mad skills dude"...seriously!

rigtec, cheers
 
I've had 3" 'full range' speakers before and felt like a tweeter was needed. Not with the HAT's though. I actually had to tune down the top a bit. Not sure if it's window reflections or what I had some harshness that was cured by dropping 3db or so at 12k and 14k.
I like the dash spot as it really helps keep the image up. Especially since the door speakers are crossed at 250 on the high end.

I wouldn't pay full price for the L3SE - to pricey to justify. I found a slightly used set for $325. Even that's on the upper end of what I like to spend for drivers. Fortunately, I didn't have to buy amps or other speakers so that left some play money.

I'd check the high end extension on the V2, I can't remember if those are supposed to have the same upper end resolution.

Thanks!

Wow $325 is really a good price. I think the V2s run about that much with the SEs at least $200 more! HAT said the V2s have the same upper extension as the SE but the SEs extend much more on the low end.

Right now I have a "trick" tune and I really like it. Kappas in dash are high passed at 350 Hz. 6 x 9 in the doors play from 95 Hz to 15 kHZ so there is a big overlap from 350 Hz to 15 kHz. A shop then used a RTA to trim the overlap from the door speakers. Overall sound is amazing to me. Has the richness in the mids from the combined door and dash, nice highs from the dash and solid bass from the doors. Overall I like it much more than a traditional tune (without overlap). Sound stage is high and centered.

Shop tuner played with the time delays and got the stage even deeper. It sound like it's coming from beyond the glass. He wouldn't tell me his trick. If you take a tape measure and look at the settings, they appear wrong but there is some sort of magic going on.

Low bass is from a AlumaPro 8 inch sub in the stock JBL box. Very quick and accurate but no boom boom.

Keep us updated on your progress. I'm jealous.
 
Hey jarbroen,

Just chimed in to say..."You got mad skills dude"...seriously!

rigtec, cheers

Thanks rigtec. Though I think it's less mad skills and more stubborn persistence to keep going even when I know I should stop. :)


Hawaiian - check out the DIYMA forum classifieds. There's frequently a set of SE's in various sizes for sale. Much more palatable than paying full price.

Sounds like you have a setup you really like. I know how I like to mess with stuff but it sounds like you should keep it... lol
The really good tune you have can make more of a difference than upgrading speakers.

Alumapro's are nice subs. If I had the factory 8" I would have gone that route. Saving space would be worth missing the boom for me. But I wasn't about to spend $600-700 to get the factory enclosure.
 
Thanks rigtec. Though I think it's less mad skills and more stubborn persistence to keep going even when I know I should stop. :)


Hawaiian - check out the DIYMA forum classifieds. There's frequently a set of SE's in various sizes for sale. Much more palatable than paying full price.

Sounds like you have a setup you really like. I know how I like to mess with stuff but it sounds like you should keep it... lol
The really good tune you have can make more of a difference than upgrading speakers.

Alumapro's are nice subs. If I had the factory 8" I would have gone that route. Saving space would be worth missing the boom for me. But I wasn't
about to spend $600-700 to get the factory enclosure.

Agree. And my wife more than agrees. I tell myself I should stop but where's the fun in that. I'll quit when you quit! Nah. Keep it going. I'd really like to follow your progress. I did see some good deals on DIYMA but don't feel comfortable ordering from strangers. I'll revisit. Keep the updates coming.
 

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