BlackWorksInc
New member
That is a good question, the only difference I remember seeing was the VVTi had an additional step to deal with the VVTi actuators. I will double check and get back to you guys
2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump
- Thread starter BlackWorksInc
- Start date
black4vcobra
New member
Thanks, definitely a mystery to me yet between what I saw and what your guide/FSM says
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nevada
Senior Member
when I did mine, I didn't do anything different, or out of the ordinary compared to the many other TB jobs I have done on various other engines.
so if there is something special required for the VVT actuators, I didn't do it. lol.
BlackWorksInc
New member
So I just looked at the 2UZ-FE Timing belt procedure for a 2003 & 2005 4Runner with 2UZ-FE, besides the pictures being slightly different (there are no additional steps for the VVTi engines, its just the pictures show the VVTi actuators on the camshaft ends vs. plain camshafts on the non-VVTi engines) the procedures are exactly the same.
Now for shits and giggles I noticed that almost all other write-ups and videos are on LC100's or Tundra engines so I looked up a 2003 LC100 & Tundra procedure. The curious part is that the LC100 FSM states that setting the crankshaft to TDC should set the timing marks at the Lines on the Camshafts. The Tundra apparently lacks these Line marks and instead has notches on the top edges of the cover to denote where the marks should line up. Yet when I looked up a 2007 (2nd Generation Tundra) the 2UZ-FE timing belt procedure is identical to the 4Runner's.
I don't actually have an answer as to why these 4 vehicles have 3 different procedures (particularly why the 1st Generation Tundra diagrams are lacking the Line & "T" marks and the 2nd Generation do not) at this time, so I will need to research this further. But like I said, the engine pictured in my thread is my personal 4Runner and I did everything according to the FSM for a 2003~2009 2UZ-FE equipped 4Runner and my engine runs fine; but this isn't the first complaint I have heard regarding weird timing mark confusion (particularly from people who have used 1 or more guides/videos on top of mine.) There's definitely something odd between the procedures in the LC100 vs. 1st Gen Tundra vs. 4Runner & 2nd Gen Tundra.
black4vcobra
New member
Thanks for looking into it further. Maybe the best idea would be to install a new belt the way the stock one was oriented if the truck runs fine? Though that wouldn't account for any belt stretch
nevada
Senior Member
yes, that is always the best thing to do.
typically any belt stretch you encounter will be taken up by the tensioner, and usually wont effect the timing much.
modern timing belts don't really stretch all that much, they are very strong.
:doh: I made that mistake. Probably explains why both cams ended up being advanced 1 tooth. Wish I had found this thread before I did the job.
Parts guy at my local dealer was claiming the red coolant was the same formulation as pink, but just non-diluted.That's not how you make Toyota SLLC "Pink" coolant.
Toyota LLC is Red and is a LOW Silicate Formula, while Toyota SLLC is pink & pre-diluted and is a NO Silicate formula. All 4th Gens required Toyota SLLC.
I should probably finally get around to making an article one the differences of coolants, additives, and their effects; this seems to happen a lot. LoL
BlackWorksInc
New member
Both are common mistakes/misunderstandings.
blackoutt
New member
07 vvti checking in here. With the damper pulley
mark set on the 50 deg btdc lower cover dot the cam marks are aligned to the "T"s just like Cisco kid. Just confirming that there is a difference where the cams sit vvti vs non. With the crank at the 50 deg btdc location I was very easily able to tweak the cams 1/2 and 1 degrees to slip the new belt on in at the correct teeth.
Also leaving the rear bolt in the ac compressor saved me a lot of headache, only the front two into the fan bracket need to come out.
95k miles and my factory water pump was shot. Bearing was toast and there was literally pounds of dried coolant out of the weep hole and bearing. Thanks for the great write up! On to the trans fluid for me too now.
Another couple notes, be cautios of the oring and gasket that come with the gates kit. The edge molded water pump gasket was multilayer and had a rivet UNDER on of the webs causing a leak. Also the oring tore on install, kinda separated in the middle, junk. Then when you do the job a second time, don't forget the little plastic shield that sits pushes into the water pump (timing belt guard) or you'll have to tear it all down a third time....
mark set on the 50 deg btdc lower cover dot the cam marks are aligned to the "T"s just like Cisco kid. Just confirming that there is a difference where the cams sit vvti vs non. With the crank at the 50 deg btdc location I was very easily able to tweak the cams 1/2 and 1 degrees to slip the new belt on in at the correct teeth.
Also leaving the rear bolt in the ac compressor saved me a lot of headache, only the front two into the fan bracket need to come out.
95k miles and my factory water pump was shot. Bearing was toast and there was literally pounds of dried coolant out of the weep hole and bearing. Thanks for the great write up! On to the trans fluid for me too now.
Another couple notes, be cautios of the oring and gasket that come with the gates kit. The edge molded water pump gasket was multilayer and had a rivet UNDER on of the webs causing a leak. Also the oring tore on install, kinda separated in the middle, junk. Then when you do the job a second time, don't forget the little plastic shield that sits pushes into the water pump (timing belt guard) or you'll have to tear it all down a third time....
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4RunnnerNB
New member
I did everything as per the FSM and it said to move the crank (with timing belt still attached) from the line up dimple for the oil pump 50 degree counter clockwise before removing the timing belt. This leaves the notch on the crank straight up and the notches on the cams about an inch to the left of the timing line on the cylinder heads. So, this is supposed to release all tension on the cams, but it actually loaded them and of course it eventually sprung ahead to the timing mark....then the next day I noticed the drivers side cam sprocket rolled to the left about 60-70 degrees. I heard a ping when the other side sprung ahead and that scared me....the otherside sprung back further, but I didn't hear that one.... This operation was supposed to prevent this from happening, but the FSM is clearly incorrect. Any ideas why it said to do this and does anyone think I bent a valve?
ben550
New member
The manual says slow trickle, you say small drips. Is this just a "get it close enough" thing? I ask because at the low range of the temperature bracket 97 it will be a slow trickle but will come out faster at 115... I checked mine and I think it is good depending on what the definition of slow trickle is. Is slightly over filled better than slightly under filled? I would think if it was a little high it will only be in the pan which would be ok...
BlackWorksInc
New member
If it's like dripping and not a continuous stream it should be fine.
toyo
Member
I use to really beat myself up worrying and making sure I followed the FSM procedure to a T when doing a timing belt.
The one thing I finally kept telling myself is that if nothing moves or changes regarding the CS and timing pulleys then all should be good. I simply do NOT allow those cam pulleys to move. If you have the lines on the new belt lined up on the CS and cam pulleys correctly and remove the tensioner pin very slowly with a 17mm on each pulley it will go perfect. Rotate the CS a few times and if the marks on the pulleys, not the belt anymore, line up you are good to go.
I remember many moons ago when I started wrenching and did my first TB job. I got the new belt installed, turned the CS 2 complete turns and the marks on the belt were no longer lining up. I think I removed that belt 3 times to get it right and then one of the shops master techs came over and slapped me on the back of the head for thinking they would. Young man's brain fart.
The one thing I finally kept telling myself is that if nothing moves or changes regarding the CS and timing pulleys then all should be good. I simply do NOT allow those cam pulleys to move. If you have the lines on the new belt lined up on the CS and cam pulleys correctly and remove the tensioner pin very slowly with a 17mm on each pulley it will go perfect. Rotate the CS a few times and if the marks on the pulleys, not the belt anymore, line up you are good to go.
I remember many moons ago when I started wrenching and did my first TB job. I got the new belt installed, turned the CS 2 complete turns and the marks on the belt were no longer lining up. I think I removed that belt 3 times to get it right and then one of the shops master techs came over and slapped me on the back of the head for thinking they would. Young man's brain fart.
shahsmerdis
New member
I'm going to have a mechanic do this for me, but it is very very important know how it is done, so you can ask questions and make sure it is done correctly. so thank you so much for this write up!
but just wondering does the OEM belt from toyota directly have the marks on the belt directly? I'm pretty scared to get a mechanic that has no attention to detail because they work on cars all day long and just don't care. I'm going to interview them before they work on my car though. Trying to get as much info as I can before I have them do it in 2 weeks.
edit I didnt realize there were more pages to read on this thread, reading them when I get off work!
Edit, I guess they do.
but just wondering does the OEM belt from toyota directly have the marks on the belt directly? I'm pretty scared to get a mechanic that has no attention to detail because they work on cars all day long and just don't care. I'm going to interview them before they work on my car though. Trying to get as much info as I can before I have them do it in 2 weeks.
edit I didnt realize there were more pages to read on this thread, reading them when I get off work!
Edit, I guess they do.
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shahsmerdis
New member
Just to add: Is it okay if I ask the shop to show me 2 rotations of the timing belt to make sure it holds the timings correctly?
what do you guys think?
what do you guys think?
black4vcobra
New member
I would. They should be rotating the engine by hand at least 1 full rotation anyway to make sure that there is no piston to valve contact.
shahsmerdis
New member
ohh I didn't realize that. is that an obvious sound?
I realize shops don't like people looking over their shoulder, but I think this is a pretty small request...
If this clears, is the probability of damaging the engine mostly gone ?
BlackWorksInc
New member
If you go slow (I'd take the spark plugs out so it turns over easier), you'll feel the engine "lock up" if the valve contacts the piston. At that point, don't apply more pressure, gently back off the crankshaft a bit and carefully rotate the camshafts and crank again until you're in time and reinstall the belt.
The key here is that if you go slow and steady, you'll feel the valve and piston causing resistance long before you apply enough force to bend the valve.
You also want to do 2 rotations of the crankshaft (4 rotations of the camshafts because they are smaller diameter) because that will be 720* of rotation or 1 full intake, compression, power, and exhaust cycle.
superman3043
Senior Member
I used this write up when I did mine a few weeks ago and it was a great help. Thank you Paul!
Just heard my cousins husband tried to do his recently and toasted his motor. Thinking about seeing if he'll sell it to me as a parts truck lol.
Just heard my cousins husband tried to do his recently and toasted his motor. Thinking about seeing if he'll sell it to me as a parts truck lol.
