blackoutt
New member
Agreed very much so, OEM is best for most maintenance items on Toyotas!
2UZ-FE R&R T-Belt & Water Pump
- Thread starter BlackWorksInc
- Start date
Agreed very much so, OEM is best for most maintenance items on Toyotas!
BlackWorksInc
New member
Ugh... I need to remember what it was...
Don't trust me on this until I verify it completely as I don't want you guys breaking an engine.
But if you use the "T" Marks you need to use the 0 degree mark, if you use the "I" like I did, you need to use the dot/dimple. One of them is a "Service" position that provides less tension on the camshafts so they don't spin on you, the other is the exact timing at a certain degree. I forgot which it is off the top of my head and I see this question come up enough that I should really have a more solid answer. I'm sorry guys I'll try and get back to you guys as soon as I can on this to settle it.
Don't trust me on this until I verify it completely as I don't want you guys breaking an engine.
But if you use the "T" Marks you need to use the 0 degree mark, if you use the "I" like I did, you need to use the dot/dimple. One of them is a "Service" position that provides less tension on the camshafts so they don't spin on you, the other is the exact timing at a certain degree. I forgot which it is off the top of my head and I see this question come up enough that I should really have a more solid answer. I'm sorry guys I'll try and get back to you guys as soon as I can on this to settle it.
4by4runr
Member
So I buttoned her up today and gave the girl the ol crank over.... Started right up! She almost just hums now she's so quiet. However just before I left I noticed some coolant dripping down and found I have a leak from best I can tell its at the oring on the thermostat housing that goes in the engine. I have to get back in there to confirm that's the only one but does anyone know the part number? It's the same housing you apply rtv but the circular oring.
4by4runr
Member
This is where it got confusing for me as my 0 mark puts the dimple in alignment as well as the cams with the |.
blackoutt
New member
Not the same oring I needed but reference the crossed out one in my other thread. Part people help?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/221810-v8-water-pump-o-ring-part-number-help.html
4by4runr
Member
That's the one. I may not need it as I started going through it late last night and found that the tstat housing that bolts into the water pump was only finger tight. Still may need it if I have to pull it back off so if anyone has that knowledge please do share. Thanks blackout
4by4runr
Member
My Aisin kit had an Aisin water pump with rubber/metal/rubber gasket, koyo pulleys and Mitsubishi belt which are all what came on it new. Cost was 199$ shipped next day via Amazon prime. The pump housing had a couple sharp edges I knocked down with a scotchbrite wheel disc lightly. Other than that everything fit great.
4by4runr
Member
Mine had 176k ymmv
4by4runr
Member
I replaced the tb, wp, tensioner and tensioner pulley, idler pulley, serp tensioner pulley and serp belt and ended up after coolant at about $350. Borrowed harmonic balancer puller and torque wrench from autozone ins orielys and a chain wrench and some extensions from the neighbor. It really helps to have the truck jacked up on the driver side for the rear ac bolt. The bottom one was a bit of a pain to get back on cause it's hard to see where it's going.
I wouldn't say they were needed but it was cheap insurance.
I'm not sure it did everything correctly though cause I didn't have any leftover bolts or nuts when I was done :noidea:
I think you have it backwards. With the crank at 0 degrees the dimples on the cams line up with the | mark. With the crank at the white dot the dimples on the cams line up with the T marks. The latter is the timing belt service position, but you could service it in any position you want as long as the same number of teeth on the belt end up between each gear.
When I did mine I couldn't see the mark on the bottom of the crank gear and didn't think to look at if from the bottom, so I made my own mark lined up with the key on the crankshaft and transferred that to the new belt. It happened to be between two small marks on the edge of the belt. After rotating the engine twice it's still lined up at 0 degrees, so I think I did it right, but I haven't started it yet.
It was a little tricky to get the alignment right because the tension meant that the belt wanted to be off by 1 tooth on the crank gear. I manually turned the cams about 1 tooth to make slack, that's OK as long as the marks line up. Once I pulled the tensioner pin everything lined up as expected.
The service manual pages that Blackworksinc posted are inconsistent. On page 3 the 4th image is with the crank at 0 degrees. The 5th image is about right for 50 degrees/ the white dot on the crank pulley, but I couldn't see the dimple on the crank gear or the dot it should line up with. The key on the crankshaft was lines up with where the belt was starting to contact the gear for me.
Page 4 image 1 should show the dimples at the T position if the crank is at the 50 degree position.
I think step 3 on page 4 puts you at about 0 degrees, but in another place (page 7) it says not to turn the engine counterclockwise.
Page 5 step D (1) and (2) are bad because it's bad to turn the cams separate from the crank.
I think the first image on page 6 should show the cam dimples aligned with the T for where the crank gear is (white dimple crank pulley position).
Here's what I would do:
- Set the crank pulley to 0 degrees and make sure the dimples line up with the |
- Set the crank pulley to the white dot and make sure the dimples line up with the Ts
- Make sure you know where the belt goes on the crank gear. The marks on the belt line up with the dimples on the cam gears, but I'm not sure about the crank gear. If you're not sure, make your own mark on the belt and the gear and transfer it to the new belt.
- Turn both the cams clockwise slightly (1 tooth or less) to reduce tension on the driver's side of the belt. The passenger side already has low tension because the tensioner is out. Install the belt.
- Double check that all the marks are lined up correctly, and release the tensioner.
- Rotate the engine and make sure the marks line up the same way as when you started.
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FYI, here is the best video I found for removing the fan. From reading about it, I was confused about which bolts to remove.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAyVisRT_gs
I couldn't find a suitable fan wrench, but I was able to do it using two wrenches pushing on one and turning the other. A rubber doorstop was not useful for holding the pulley because Home Depot only sells mostly hollow doorstops. Maybe a solid one would work.
Here are some of the tools I needed:
12mm box wrench for fan clutch bolts
14mm box wrench for bottom alternator bolt and top front AC compressor bolt (who thought it was a good idea to put rigid AC lines in front of these bolts?)
Two 3 inch extensions, two 6 inch extensions, and one universal joint
Deep sockets 12mm, 14mm
Regular sockets 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Deep or regular socket 22mm
13mm box wrench or socket if you need to replace the radiator
Various pliers for hose clips
Normal torque wrench
Torque wrench for 181 ft-lb crank pulley bolt
Flathead screwdriver for prying, scraping, pushing hoses
Vise grips for the stuck phillips screw on the AC bracket. Manual or powered impact could work too.
Large hammer for loosening things
10mm hex wrench for the timing belt tensioner. 10mm hex bit for torquing it.
scotchbrite to scrub corrosion off the water pump gasket surface
Buckets and tubing to catch coolant
Cheater bar to put over wrench to break things loose.
I made my own crank pulley holding tool from some steel bar stock and some metric bolts (here are various ideas https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homemade-crank-pulley-tool.140646/), but the bolts bent and damaged the threads in the pulley. I'd either buy the right tool for it, such as https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG or use an old drive belt.
To use an old drive belt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAyVisRT_gs
I couldn't find a suitable fan wrench, but I was able to do it using two wrenches pushing on one and turning the other. A rubber doorstop was not useful for holding the pulley because Home Depot only sells mostly hollow doorstops. Maybe a solid one would work.
Here are some of the tools I needed:
12mm box wrench for fan clutch bolts
14mm box wrench for bottom alternator bolt and top front AC compressor bolt (who thought it was a good idea to put rigid AC lines in front of these bolts?)
Two 3 inch extensions, two 6 inch extensions, and one universal joint
Deep sockets 12mm, 14mm
Regular sockets 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Deep or regular socket 22mm
13mm box wrench or socket if you need to replace the radiator
Various pliers for hose clips
Normal torque wrench
Torque wrench for 181 ft-lb crank pulley bolt
Flathead screwdriver for prying, scraping, pushing hoses
Vise grips for the stuck phillips screw on the AC bracket. Manual or powered impact could work too.
Large hammer for loosening things
10mm hex wrench for the timing belt tensioner. 10mm hex bit for torquing it.
scotchbrite to scrub corrosion off the water pump gasket surface
Buckets and tubing to catch coolant
Cheater bar to put over wrench to break things loose.
I made my own crank pulley holding tool from some steel bar stock and some metric bolts (here are various ideas https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/homemade-crank-pulley-tool.140646/), but the bolts bent and damaged the threads in the pulley. I'd either buy the right tool for it, such as https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG or use an old drive belt.
To use an old drive belt:
- Fold the belt rib side out
- Wrap the belt around the crank pulley so that it grips the pulley as you turn the nut in the desired direction (loosen or tighten)
- Loop the other end of the belt around something solid. If there's nothing in the way the upper suspension arm mounts work great. The fan pulley bracket is good too.
- As you turn the nut the belt will tighten around itself and grip the pulley.
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BlackWorksInc
New member
[MENTION=113611]m85476585[/MENTION]
I did say don't trust me on that until I verify it (because I do think I might have written it down backwards as you pointed out). Which I still need to do, sorry been busy with work and such last week or so.
Post Note-
Some diagrams in Toyota literature are weirdly inconsistent and/or anachronistic (i.e. you may see drawing of a completely torn down assembly at the beginning of the instructions, only to have a partially torn down assembly drawing in the middle, and then a completely torn down assembly again; why they decided to do it that way I have no damn clue and it can become confusing at times.)
I did say don't trust me on that until I verify it (because I do think I might have written it down backwards as you pointed out). Which I still need to do, sorry been busy with work and such last week or so.
Post Note-
Some diagrams in Toyota literature are weirdly inconsistent and/or anachronistic (i.e. you may see drawing of a completely torn down assembly at the beginning of the instructions, only to have a partially torn down assembly drawing in the middle, and then a completely torn down assembly again; why they decided to do it that way I have no damn clue and it can become confusing at times.)
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4by4runr
Member
[MENTION=3743]Jeremy[/MENTION], I'm gonna say no, if a dealer did it, there would be a sticker. If it was done that serp belt looks like it should have been done as well. I don't see any marks on the bolts so I'm gonna say they replaced the hoses and coolant like the hoses started leaking and when they were replaced they had to drain down the radiator.
JeratBP
Member
Did I order everything I need?
Aisin TKT-021 kit
Bando Serpentine Belt
Stant Thermostat and Seal
Iridium Denso Spark Plugs 90919-01210, 2 packs of 4
SLLC2 Coolant - 4 gallons (one thread said 3.4 needed, another said only 3 gallons needed)
RTV Silicone
Why isn't this thread a sticky?
Aisin TKT-021 kit
Bando Serpentine Belt
Stant Thermostat and Seal
Iridium Denso Spark Plugs 90919-01210, 2 packs of 4
SLLC2 Coolant - 4 gallons (one thread said 3.4 needed, another said only 3 gallons needed)
RTV Silicone
Why isn't this thread a sticky?
4by4runr
Member
You'll also need a 22mm socket for the crank. I used the 2 12 mm wrenches method for the fan. You may want to replace your serp belt tensioner pulley as well. I used every bit of 3 gallons but I vacuumed out all I could without draining the block. I think I'm still a little low. Make sure you lube the orings well with a little oil. And remember to retorque the rtv deal after its cured, it will be loose otherwise. You may want to think about upper and lower rad hoses too.
Also as indicated above, my crank position at 0 lines up the timing marks on the | mark.
