Changed my 05 4.7 @100K this month, heres my lists
The shopping list for 4.7 2UZ-FE timing belt change
--Needed
Timing belt - 13568-09070
Coolant super long life (need 3)- 00272-SLLC2
--Optional but recommended
Left Idler pulley - 13503-0F010
Right Idler pulley - 13505-0F010
Tensioner - 13540-50030
Serpentine belt - 90916-02586
Water pump - 16100-59275-83
Water pump gasket -
Cooling system O-ring - 96761-35035
Cooling system O-ring#2 - 96761-00103
Cooling system RTV - 00295-00103
Radiator upper hose -
Radiator lower hose -
Thermostat -
Thermostat seal -
Crankshaft seal -
Camshaft seals - (I believe you must remove the camshafts to change these, look in the TSRM)(I did not change them because that is a whole other can-o-worms)
--Always nice to have on hand
Toyota oil filters (taller than aftermarket purolator)
Crush washers for oil pan, rear diff, front diff, transfer case
air filter
cabin air filter
The tools needed
Torque wrench set good from 5 ft-lbs to 180 ft-lbs (I bought 2 CDI wrenches online, the 752mfrmh and 2503mfrmh after much research on brand quality)
10, 12, 14 mm wrenchs
10, 12, 14 mm deep 3/8 sockets with 3/8 ractheting wrench
3/8 socket extensions,about 3" and 5"
10mm allen head socket 3/8 or 1/2 (To remove timing belt idler sub-assembly)
22 mm deep socket 1/2
1/2 breaker bar at least 18" long
Locking chain wrench or -plumbers chain wrench with breaker bar-
Rubber to protect crankshaft balancer from chain wrench (I used an old bike innertube cut into strips, layer at least 3/8" thick)(To loosen crank bolt, I let the locking chain wrench put force on the thermostat housing and I put a good 1/2" of rubber to protect the housing)
Crankshaft harmonic balancer puller (I bought a set at harbor Freight for $15)
gasket scraper (for water pump change)
crankshaft seal punch/press (Can use 2" pvc pipe cut square with wood to hammer on center of pipe)
string or house wire to hang accessories
adjustable pliers for hose clamps
shop light
drain pan for coolant plus storage containers for old coolant
vacuum hose to drain coolant from engine drain plugs without making a mess
lots of vinyl or nitrile gloves
I believe from changing all idler pulleys and water pump that the new bearings reduced friction and helped gas mileage maybe up to 1 mpg. At 100K one idler pulley had rust on the indside lip and the other had dirt and grease covering the inside lip. Water pump wasn't leaking and looked fine, I replaced it anyway. I needed 2.2 gals of coolant because I drained the coolant from the engine as well, there are two engine drain locations, so coolant doesn't spill everywhere when removing the water pump and oil cooling hose. With 1/4" of rubber protecting harmonic balancer the locking chain wrench still put small dents on several of the "v" channels so use at least 3/8" or a thin peice of metal over the rubber. Luckily, the dents were small and didn't mess up the harmonic balance.
Follow the TSRM for timing belt and water pump change and torque all bolts to correct specs and you will be fine.
