5th Gen Oil Recommendation? New Owner!

What’s your go to oil?


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Has anyone tried this Fram full synthetic wire back oil filter? Construction seems solid.
 

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I run OEM oil/filters in my Land Cruiser and 4Runner. Dealer gives it to me for the same price as walmrt mobil1. All you have to do is ask the parts guy nicely to cut you a deal, then you are in the system. They always just throw in the crush washers for free for me. If toy dealer won't play nice, just go to lexus parts guy. Had success at both.
 
I have always used Castrol Edge on my 2007 4Runner and I tried Eneos and was impressed. Yes, driving a vehicle for 10 years on the same roads, you tend to notice those things!

On my 2017 4Runner which I had it serviced at the dealer since I got it, I recently found out that they use Pennzoil Semi Synthetic Blend! As usual, stealership charging high prices and using the cheapest oil.

Going to wash it out with Kirkland 0w 20, which I have heard is good. But have the OEM Toyota 0w 20 and Idemitsu 0w 20. I want to try both after the Kirkland oil. I have heard great things about the OEM Toyota 0w 20 so I want to try it at least once.Idemitsu pioneered the 0w 20 grade oil and hopefully is good and I have heard great things about it.

Will update later.
 
I've been using Supertech full synthetic (preferably hi-mileage but it is sometimes out of stock) on all my Toyotas for years. Most of the time with the Supertech filters. 5K intervals, with no problems, with the called for 5-w-30.

In a two month period, I ended up with two newer models with the cartridge type filters needing 0-w-20. I'm going to use Toyota OEM filters from the dealer and full synthetic oil I get from walmart. Last time I was there some name brand synthetics were only $2-$3 more than Supertech, so I might go to them. As long as they are not Mobil 1. I used to use Mobil 1 but it got too expensive and didn't seem to be "all that" anymore.

Good to hear good things about Supertech. years ago it was made by Quaker State. I might be a Quaker State guy all along, or again, from what I read here in this super long thread.

I need to do the diffs and transfer case asap on the new-to-me 4Runner with 125K on it.
Joe
 
First oil change for new to me 4R was Pennzoil platinum full synthetic 0w20. It was on sale with a WIX filter. Just bought yesterday some Kirkland sig. full synthetic 0w20 yesterday at Costco. It was on sale $32.99 for (2) 5qt jugs. Will prolly go with OEM filters going forward as they seem the best value. Satisfied due to finding a review stating it's high moly & zinc values from a lab test.

Some of you guys are over thinking this stuff. These aren't high revving turbo charged engines that require the most expensive full synthetic oils on market. Can't go wrong with any brand name full synthetic oil on market now a days.
 
Someone mentioned price matching the Toyota oil with Mobile One. Can you purchase the Toyota oil from the parts department without it being ridiculous expensive?
 
I think oil does matter on these due to the knocking and dieseling when cold. I don’t have a solution, but I’d be playing with brands to find what sounds best in the morning.
 
I’m not sure what you mean by knocking and dieseling when it comes to the 4R, I’ve never had either unless you mean the 1GR-FE sounds like a freaking diesel, it does.
It was 7° last week when I left the house. The first time in a while it’s been that low with my truck outside the garage, so I was listening carefully on startup. My 4R with 5W-30 sounded good, the same as ever.
 
As previously said, don’t overthink this.
If you’re in a cold climate consider a synthetic 0W-20. If you live in a warmer benign climate consider a synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30. Major brand name oils that meet the specs.

If you drive conservatively mostly highway miles change your oil every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. If you drive it harder or according to Toyota’s severe service category change it every 5,000 miles. Don’t analyze it, just change it.

Use Toyota oil filters.

Refer to your owner manual. And don’t bother stressing over the advice of the “expert tribologists” on “Bob is the Oil Guy”.
 
My 2021 manual says anything other than 0W-20 should be temporary. I have not seen a manual say that before. Usually they show a range of temps for a couple different weights. Not this one.
 
My 2021 manual says anything other than 0W-20 should be temporary. I have not seen a manual say that before. Usually they show a range of temps for a couple different weights. Not this one.

Interesting. I looked that up and see they got rid of the Puerto Rico oil section that specified other oil weights for that climate.

However the text does say for the US:
“The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil
when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions

This is what the owner manual for my 2018 includes:
 

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Phoenix AZ has higher summer temperatures than Puerto Rico. Approved viscosities for a 2011 Tacoma 4.0L in the USA are 0W-20 and 5W-30. Therefore, I use 5W-30 in my 2011 4Runner Trail.
 
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Phoenix AZ has higher summer temperatures than Puerto Rico. Approved viscosities for a 2011 Tacoma 4.0L in the USA are 0W-20 and 5W-30. Therefore, I use 5W-30 in my 2011 4Runner Trail.

What temperature does your engine oil actually stay at though? The cooling system is designed to keep oil/engine at a certain temp irregardless of ambient. Do you know if your oil runs hotter? Personally my temp gage is the same at operating in AZ July or winter in UT
 
What temperature does your engine oil actually stay at though? The cooling system is designed to keep oil/engine at a certain temp irregardless of ambient. Do you know if your oil runs hotter? Personally my temp gage is the same at operating in AZ July or winter in UT

The robust 4.0 engine will be fine with either oil under normal operating conditions and ambient temperatures across the USA. For most operating conditions above normal, 0W-20 is adequate and at the same time less capable to protect than a higher viscosity oil.

In city driving, my wife tends to make short trips and tries to pass everyone on the road. When the vehicle warranty expired, I began using 5W-30 for driving from Phoenix to Flagstaff, moderate load, grades up to 6%, high ambient temperatures and speeds of 85+. An OBDLink MX+ shows coolant temperature rises 5 degrees and ATF temperature peaks at 224 F on the steepest grade.

I change oil at 5000 miles and filter at 10,000. So, taken all together, I appreciate the extra level of protection 5W-30 offers.
 
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I have always used Castrol Edge on my 2007 4Runner and I tried Eneos and was impressed. Yes, driving a vehicle for 10 years on the same roads, you tend to notice those things!

On my 2017 4Runner which I had it serviced at the dealer since I got it, I recently found out that they use Pennzoil Semi Synthetic Blend! As usual, stealership charging high prices and using the cheapest oil.

Going to wash it out with Kirkland 0w 20, which I have heard is good. But have the OEM Toyota 0w 20 and Idemitsu 0w 20. I want to try both after the Kirkland oil. I have heard great things about the OEM Toyota 0w 20 so I want to try it at least once.Idemitsu pioneered the 0w 20 grade oil and hopefully is good and I have heard great things about it.

Will update later.

I changed my dealer serviced oil after putting just 300 miles on it to Idemitsu 0w 20.

Couple of things I came across while doing the first oil change on this vehicle.

1) The skid plate was a pain to remove. It didn't come off from the hooks easy as I thought. The hooks were bent like a "S". I guess the dealer just swings it open and presses it down to get to the oil filter? It is fine when the vehicle is on a lift. With ramps. there is not much space to swing it down and hence it was a pain to wiggle it around. I looked at stock pictures of the hook and next time I might have to straighten it out a litte and leave just the ends with a bend upwards.
2) Sure enough, one of the skid plate bolts lost the threads and have to tap it and put a new bolt on.
3) Surprisingly, fearing the worst I had a breaker bar to deal with over torque issues. But the filter was intact with no broken tabs and came off normally and so did the oil pan nut. Kudos to the dealer for doing a good job.(Strange times we live in to thank the dealer for that!)

So after just 300 miles on a fresh oil change I was thinking I won't notice much. I was wrong! There are the things I noticed immediately,

1) The old oil was dark but not gooey thick black dark as it hardly has 300 miles on it. But as the oil thinned out from the drain pain, it become a dark red wine like color.
2) The engine is very smooth and went completely quite!
3) Early morning cold starts with valve chatter noise (like a Diesel engine idling) gone! I seemed to notice it coming from the right bank of the engine more than the left.
4)After 48k miles and driving on the same roads and conditions my mileage computer never crossed the 17mpg mark. Now after driving just 50 miles after the oil change it is showing 17.9! I think it will hit 18 or more soon the more miles I put on it for the computer to average it out.
5) The A/C fans inside seem much louder on the same setting of 3 as the engine went completely quite.

I used OEM filters and always do and have a half a dozen which I bought in bulk.

Mind you the engine still has remnants of dealer serviced Pennzoil gold(semi synthetic) inside.
I am going to do another oil change at 3k and use Idemitsu again to have a fresh start.
Very impressed with this oil and plan on using it on other cars as well.
 
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