88 4Runner Project! (Lots of Questions)

[rusty904]

I've traced the short to the driver's side tailight but can't really get beyond that. Can't find any exposed wire or moisture that could be causing the short. Connectors look fine.

With the battery on the lights work fine but when I crank the engine the fuse blows after a few seconds.

Has anyone gotten a tailight short before? Any tips?

 

[rusty904]

Ufff, more problems. I found an exhaust leak in the factory exhaust manifold and unfortunately it's from a hole in the manifold itself, not a gasket leak.

I went ahead and ordered a dorman replacement kit for $80 from advance auto but I'm wondering if I should just upgrade to a nice aftermarket header. Any thoughts? There are some threads on it but they all seem pretty outdated. Obviously big price differences.

 

[javendan]

my '88 came with a downey intake and header and custom exhaust.

sounds great and seems a bit peppier than my father-in-law's stock '93 4x4 pickup with 22re.

i would suspect if you went with a header then the intake and exhaust wouldn't be to far behind - LOL.

G E T I T!

joel

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

For header, depends on what you're looking for in power...

For more top end, go with a 4 into 1 header like Downey's

For more midrange power, go with a tri-y like Thorley's

I have had both on the 22RE and prefer the power from the thorley, it seems to have that extra bit of power right around 3500rpm on up. It still has a good amount at the upper end too, I really thought it felt just as strong as the 4 into 1 header at 5k rpm.

Whatever you do though, make sure you get the coated version! Mine looks like its been through WWI and WWII! Also, make sure you get it with the proper o2 bung for your sensor. I recall getting the wrong one (without a sensor bung) and had to return it for the correct version.

 

[rusty904]

I ended up just picking up the OE style one from autozone. A header would be really awesome but at about 5x the price it's not a priority right now. When it comes time to replace the exhaust I may do it all at once.

I think I can handle the manifold replacement, just wish I had a garage in which to work. I might be able to do the valve adjustment too but that might be something best left to a pro.

 

[rusty904]

Took the Dorman replacement out of the box last night and it sure is a rough looking piece of pig iron!

Inside of the pipes are really rough to the touch. I've never handled a factory manifold so I don't have anything to compare it to but I'm wondering how much more this will restrict my weak little motor.

I've been looking into what's available for aftermarket headers. I think Downey is no more. Pacesetter is cheap but with very mixed reviews. LC engineering is supposed to be high quality but it's over $450 shipped plus gaskets and that's just too much for this truck!

Checking into OBX stuff which is slightly more reasonable but seems to have pretty good feedback.

 

[rusty904]

Got the new manifold in place last night. Much more difficult job than I thought it would be! I also didn't realize that my truck was supposed to have a factory heat shield.

Truck runs fine but I can't tell if the exhaust leak is gone. Also when I started it up the first time I got some smoke from this block off plate. My factory manifold didn't have one and I assume this is for an additional 02 sensor in another model?

Anyway, with a second start up this morning I still got a tiny bit of smoke from that little plate as well as a faint smoky odor. This is the little bugger in question.

 

[58rennur4]

Finally, on a more negative note, my truck has developed some kind of short with the taillight/dash light circuit. I replaced the fuse a couple times and it blew a few seconds after starting the engine each time. I removed the pass side taillight bulb to see if I could isolate the short. It still shorted so I guess the short is in the driver's taillight or the dashboard light?

Man I hate electrical stuff. It's kind of sad when the two old British cars I've worked on extensively have had way fewer electrical issues!

The idle issue is the worst plague of all though. It returned with a vengeance yesterday and the truck would not idle at all. The problem always seems to return when I work with fuses and electrical stuff. Not sure if this is coincidence or not. Have heard many theories from alternator, to vacuum leaks and I'm totally baffled. None of the mechanics at work want to touch anything as old as my truck!

I can not remember exactly all the details but a friend of mine had a very bad idle issue then the truck just died. It also blew a fuse under the hood. I searched the web for him and it led me either to this site, yotatech, or possibly another. I remember when I search the symptoms it was suggested the tail light had a short ( which according to the post) was a pretty common issue OR the rubber insulators where the alternator plugs in.

Well it turned out to be the rubber insulation washers on the alternator that was creating all the havoc. Once those were replaced the truck ran perfect again with out any issues.

Not sure if it is related but worth a shot at an answer.



.

 

[rusty904]

Got the short fixed by a local electrical specialist. Was pricey but a clean job. Had some melted wires and looked like the wiring had been tampered with by an amateur. Took a while to sort out the mess.

New manifold is on as is a new throttle body intake tube. I also re-charged the a/c and it seems to be working well. I think the manifold is restricting the motor even more. Exhaust leak is gone but it seems a little down on top end power. Might invest in a header after all.

I also got the hitch and bike rack installed. Bad news is it won't clear the 265-75-16 spare. About 1.5-2" too tight. Will need to find a way to modify the hitch to fit or switch to a tube bumper with integrated hitch. I want to continue to store the spare underneath.

If I could get a tubular center section for the hitch that curved outward slightly it would work well. Don't have a welder or know someone with fab skills though. Seems like it'd be simple enough.

Truck was a lot of fun camping in Pisgah last weekend!

 

[rusty904]

Fighting the crowds last Saturday in Pisgah! Great camping rig.

Also bike transport solutions: Yakima pad works great on the tailgate and was only $70 from backcountry. Can fit four bikes and four passengers but not much else. Got a great deal on a kuat rack which is fantastic however, I can't get the tailgate all the way down with it installed. Had to try a couple of license plate relocates too.

 

[RAD4Runner]

So I got myself an 88 4runner 22re 5speed last weekend that came with the name of "Roscoe". I usually don't name cars but the previous owners seemed attached to the name and I like it so Roscoe it is.

Anyway, the truck is in pretty good shape mechanically with much of the major services done recently, new radiator, new front brake rotors and calipers, timing chain, cover, water pump, etc. No leaks, no rattles, or strange noises on startup. It made the 2hr journey home without complaint. It developed a rough idle but some fuel treatment, new plugs, and premium fuel seem to be remedying that. Even though I wouldn't describe it as clean cosmetically the core of the truck seems very good. No real rust anywhere, lifetime South Carolina vehicle. The Courbeau suspension seats were a nice bonus even though they are blue.

This truck will be my 2nd vehicle and I will use it for MTB trips/races, camping, and some light-moderate off roading. Even though the weather sucks right now and most of my work will have to be done off road, I am anxious to get started.

Here's my current to-do list:
Mechanical:
-New plugs (done)

-Repair front wipers (fuse good, motor gets hot but no movement, worked on the test drive)
-Find rear wiper arm assembly

-Fix the horn

-Fix fuel sender that causes the gauge to read empty at around 1/2 a tank. (Suppose this involves dropping out the tank? Ugh)

-Get the cruise control operational, cable is detached now so obviously the previous owner had an issue with it.
-Do a slight suspension lift to make a little more clearance for the 265/75/16's (Tundra Steelies/ATKO's)

Interior:
-Find some sort of carpeting/flooring solution. I'd prefer something that maintains some insulation but is very easy to clean.

-Fix/replace cracked dash pad

-Fix the headliner that's coming off on the drivers side

-Find and install missing interior trim pieces, Driver's arm rest, shifter bezel, dome light lense/switch. Might want or need to go custom/DIY on some of these.

-Install factory roll bar, seats, and seatbelts. I've got everything but the hardware which I suppose I can pick up at lowes? Rear seats are in decent shape but look nasty even after a thorough cleaning.

-Fab some DIY storage panels for the rear.

Exterior:
-Install Hella H4 Conversion (in the mail!)
...
-Install some sort of rear bumper with a hitch for ...

Spare tire: mine came with the spare plopped in the back of the truck. I want to put it back underneath. Looks like the hoist thing to get it up/down takes a special tool for it to work. I don't think I have this tool unless it is stored somewhere weird underneath the truck. ...

Headliner: It looks like it's in great shape aside from where it's coming off in the pic I posted. Is it game over or can I glue it back? I tried last night but I couldn't stretch it enough to get it tucked back up under the edge.

Updates: Either I'm missing a piece for my spare tire crank or I'm the world's biggest idiot. Will have to pick something up that works because I really want the spare back under there. I think there should be one more brown piece to slot into the bits I have.

...

First-gen is the good choice for low-maintenance, spartan MoreFunner.

Re: H4 conversion, do you mean the housing or the harness? The H4 harness conversion is more crucial to improving lighting. Stock headlight wiring is flawed; Ask 4Crawler, ask any electrical engineer who really knows what he is doing.

Yes you're missing what KidV describes above, about 2 foot long rod with hook at end.

What I replaced head liner with... will match your grey interior and sound-proofs better...

Cheers!

 

[RAD4Runner]

So I got myself an 88 4runner 22re 5speed last weekend that came with the name of "Roscoe". I usually don't name cars but the previous owners seemed attached to the name and I like it so Roscoe it is.

Anyway, the truck is in pretty good shape mechanically with much of the major services done recently, new radiator, new front brake rotors and calipers, timing chain, cover, water pump, etc. No leaks, no rattles, or strange noises on startup. It made the 2hr journey home without complaint. It developed a rough idle but some fuel treatment, new plugs, and premium fuel seem to be remedying that. Even though I wouldn't describe it as clean cosmetically the core of the truck seems very good. No real rust anywhere, lifetime South Carolina vehicle. The Courbeau suspension seats were a nice bonus even though they are blue.

This truck will be my 2nd vehicle and I will use it for MTB trips/races, camping, and some light-moderate off roading. Even though the weather sucks right now and most of my work will have to be done off road, I am anxious to get started.

Here's my current to-do list:
Mechanical:
-New plugs (done)

-Repair front wipers (fuse good, motor gets hot but no movement, worked on the test drive)
-Find rear wiper arm assembly

-Fix the horn

-Fix fuel sender that causes the gauge to read empty at around 1/2 a tank. (Suppose this involves dropping out the tank? Ugh)

-Get the cruise control operational, cable is detached now so obviously the previous owner had an issue with it.
-Do a slight suspension lift to make a little more clearance for the 265/75/16's (Tundra Steelies/ATKO's)

Interior:
-Find some sort of carpeting/flooring solution. I'd prefer something that maintains some insulation but is very easy to clean.

-Fix/replace cracked dash pad

-Fix the headliner that's coming off on the drivers side

-Find and install missing interior trim pieces, Driver's arm rest, shifter bezel, dome light lense/switch. Might want or need to go custom/DIY on some of these.

-Install factory roll bar, seats, and seatbelts. I've got everything but the hardware which I suppose I can pick up at lowes? Rear seats are in decent shape but look nasty even after a thorough cleaning.

-Fab some DIY storage panels for the rear.

Exterior:
-Install Hella H4 Conversion (in the mail!)
...
-Install some sort of rear bumper with a hitch for ...

Spare tire: mine came with the spare plopped in the back of the truck. I want to put it back underneath. Looks like the hoist thing to get it up/down takes a special tool for it to work. I don't think I have this tool unless it is stored somewhere weird underneath the truck. ...

Headliner: It looks like it's in great shape aside from where it's coming off in the pic I posted. Is it game over or can I glue it back? I tried last night but I couldn't stretch it enough to get it tucked back up under the edge.

Updates: Either I'm missing a piece for my spare tire crank or I'm the world's biggest idiot. Will have to pick something up that works because I really want the spare back under there. I think there should be one more brown piece to slot into the bits I have.

...

First-gen is the good choice for low-maintenance, spartan MoreFunner.

Re: H4 conversion, do you mean the housing or the harness? The H4 harness conversion is more crucial to improving lighting. Stock headlight wiring is flawed; Ask 4Crawler, ask any electrical engineer who really knows what he is doing.

Yes you're missing what KidV describes above, about 2 foot long rod with hook at end.

What I replaced head liner with... will match your grey interior and sound-proofs better...

Cheers!

 

[rusty904]

Thanks for that, It's just the housing and the bulb for now. I planned to do the harness later but I mostly just wanted to replace the cracked sealed beams for something with replaceable bulbs.

I found the missing hook piece on ebay so that's all set. Headliner, along with the hard top is in storage right now so I'll have to worry about that later!

Thanks again!

 

[rusty904]

Anybody know where one could find some inexpensive mud flaps. I like the ones that say "Toyota" or "4x4" on them. People seem to be charging absurd amounts for them on ebay.

I was driving a lot on gravel roads last weekend and I figure mud flaps might help keep pebbles off my paint work!

 

[KidVermicious]

Fronts are hard to come by, they get torn off and lost, but the rears are pretty common. I'd keep scanning your local junkyards, watch the boards and your classifieds for part-outs, and in the meantime get some semi truck mudflap and bolt that on to keep your paint clean.

 

[Excalseras]

Fronts are hard to come by, they get torn off and lost, but the rears are pretty common. I'd keep scanning your local junkyards, watch the boards and your classifieds for part-outs, and in the meantime get some semi truck mudflap and bolt that on to keep your paint clean.

Well. Removed my bumpers and the mudflaps - the rear ones are all rotten and stuff. Fronts are still good though, been trying to scour online for clean rear flaps. Junkyards near me have shitty ones. Seems like everybody has dirty rotten rear flaps. :bowl:

 

[rusty904]

So, it's been a while since I updated this but big changes on the way in the form of a new motor.

I started eating coolant and found out there was coolant in my no. 1 cylinder. Best case scenario was a head gasket but I figured on a 250k motor it wasn't worth the effort.

Since there are about a bazillion engine builders around here (nascar country) the price of a rebuilt motor was less than I expected. I put a down payment on a 22re with a bored/re-finished block, new head, new cylinders, bearings, etc. It's only going to cost me $900 assuming my old core is still good.

My friend and I are planning on doing the engine swap on the 10th(starting on the 10th at least). Went ahead and got a new aisan clutch kit to put in while I'm at it. Trying hard to resist burning more cash on performance upgrades like headers, cams, and intakes to give it a bit more pep.

If anyone has good experiences (or better yet good deals) they want to share in any of these areas feel free to chime in. Or, if you have any recommendations for any other maintenance or upgrades I should do while the motor is out.

I'll try my best to document the process, should be a bit of an adventure but hopefully I'll have a reasonably bulletproof rig when I'm done.

One more thing, anyone ever seen a 1st gen with these enkei wheels on it? These are a sweet deal and I've always liked them, just not sure how'd they look on the truck. http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/5143956177.html

 

[richiegrich]

i just put on a lce header and high flow cat with 2/14 pipe and it really woke up the lil 4 banger. i no longer dread freeway on ramps. found the header used and all in all was around 500 for everything. seems kinda steep but is well worth it so far.

 

[rusty904]

i just put on a lce header and high flow cat with 2/14 pipe and it really woke up the lil 4 banger. i no longer dread freeway on ramps. found the header used and all in all was around 500 for everything. seems kinda steep but is well worth it so far.

Where'd you get all of that for that price? That's about how much the header alone is shipped to me. Thanks for the feedback BTW, seriously considering the splurge on the LCE but having a hard time justifying the cost.

I'm a cheapskate and I hate paying full retail for stuff.

edit: oops, didn't read the post that carefully. You're really luck to find something like that used.

 

[rusty904]

It's almost time for the engine swap! To occupy my time waiting for the new motor I got me a $19 valve cover on ebay to dress up. Shot some $8.99 VHT wrinkle paint and a new sticker on it and I must say, I'm pretty pleased. Will actually make it look like I put something new under there!

Other parts are accumulating, clutch, header, fuel filter, belts, vacuum hoses, thermostat, distributor cap, etc. I'm spending too much money but I want to do it all right while I have the motor out of the truck. More updates next week.