darkie3495
Moderator
Yes, they are dimable.
DIY: Interior LED swap (cluster, HVAC, switches, window, *steering wheel)
- Thread starter darkie3495
- Start date
Yes, they are dimable.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
The center needle (flickering) is driving me nuts, I'll reach out to ya Sparky :yo:
CookieRoe
Senior Member
[MENTION=59048]S p a r k y[/MENTION] (so you know what is happening to my cluster)
Now my tach goes out as does the left part of the ODO display. The speedo needle appears to dim when this happens. Anyway, I'm trying to get a limited cluster to replace the gas needle (previously mentioned: it was damaged on the first LED attempt and I'm assuming that is why it has always appeared dim to me).
So:
1) my speedo needle flickers from time to time
2) Tach needle goes out entirely from time to time as well.
3) Left side of ODO goes out when tach does.
4) gas needle has always been a tad dim to me.
I had Yosh2000 resolder the white backlight LEDs b/c they were going out...... No problems since. The needles were never redone and I suspect cheap ass LEDs were used.
Sparky: I haven't forgotten about ya!!!!! Soon as I can score a limited cluster, I'll give ya a holler!
Now my tach goes out as does the left part of the ODO display. The speedo needle appears to dim when this happens. Anyway, I'm trying to get a limited cluster to replace the gas needle (previously mentioned: it was damaged on the first LED attempt and I'm assuming that is why it has always appeared dim to me).
So:
1) my speedo needle flickers from time to time
2) Tach needle goes out entirely from time to time as well.
3) Left side of ODO goes out when tach does.
4) gas needle has always been a tad dim to me.
I had Yosh2000 resolder the white backlight LEDs b/c they were going out...... No problems since. The needles were never redone and I suspect cheap ass LEDs were used.
Sparky: I haven't forgotten about ya!!!!! Soon as I can score a limited cluster, I'll give ya a holler!
S p a r k y
New member
[MENTION=50507]CookieRoe[/MENTION] I’ll see if I can find a cluster as well!
overlandout
New member
6volt question:
I'm trying to do the HVAC Multi Display.
I would prefer not to do the 12v mod.
If I have spare neo4 holders, can I order a different LED bulb to put in the holder? What kind of specs would I need to look for in the LED?
I'm trying to do the HVAC Multi Display.
I would prefer not to do the 12v mod.
If I have spare neo4 holders, can I order a different LED bulb to put in the holder? What kind of specs would I need to look for in the LED?
CookieRoe
Senior Member
So I replaced lamps over the weekend and everything went great...except for one. It looks like Toyota never installed an LED in position 7 (OFF).
Does anyone know the part number for this lamp so I Can solder it in?
One doesn't exist. I had an LED soldered in mine. Not sure of the specs, but solder one in (mine is red) and it should be fine.
riceandpho
Elite Member
So I replaced lamps over the weekend and everything went great...except for one. It looks like Toyota never installed an LED in position 7 (OFF).
Does anyone know the part number for this lamp so I Can solder it in?
they take 3mm led, you can do what ever color you want.
So they never installed that one from the factory for anyone? How did that happen when it's all setup for one, even the button has the spot to let light through.
Cisco Kid
Member
So I replaced lamps over the weekend and everything went great...except for one. It looks like Toyota never installed an LED in position 7 (OFF).
Does anyone know the part number for this lamp so I Can solder it in?
If you have a meter, check the voltage between those two terminals before you solder in an led. I tried it with my truck a few years ago and it blew the led instantly because it had 12 volts going to it. Some folks claim it worked for them but that was not the case for me.
It should have 12 volts going to it. How else will the LED illuminate?
Cisco Kid
Member
If you put 12 volts directly to an led it will blow. They are designed to run on 2 to 4 volts DC depending on color.
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Yea, you are right. I didn't realize that.
Cuts for this red one says 1.8-2.2v.
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/LED/COM-00533-YSL-R531R3D-D2.pdf
However, this one from Amazon has a resistor built in, allowing 12v operation: https://www.amazon.com/12-Volt-LEDs-Internal-Resistor/dp/B00RRBWUMG?th=1
My guess is it depends on which LED you put in which will determine why some work and some don't.
jacobswetsuit
New member
Used a lot of the methods described here, and everything turned out awesome. Thanks for the brilliant write-up!
This is what I did.
I love all of the mods posted on here, it's really motivated to do my own. Check it out. 1st pic shows the new switches I installed, a switch for the LED light bar and a switch for the rear camera instant on (comes in real handy when try to hook up the trailer). Also installed cup holder led discs as well as 4runner smokers kit with USB chargers with led rings instead of cigarette lighter. I really like how it turned out. Other pics show led swap outs on dash. Pictures don't do it justice.
I love all of the mods posted on here, it's really motivated to do my own. Check it out. 1st pic shows the new switches I installed, a switch for the LED light bar and a switch for the rear camera instant on (comes in real handy when try to hook up the trailer). Also installed cup holder led discs as well as 4runner smokers kit with USB chargers with led rings instead of cigarette lighter. I really like how it turned out. Other pics show led swap outs on dash. Pictures don't do it justice.
Attachments
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overlandout
New member
Where did you get the lights for your Multifunction/Clock display?
I can't find any LEDs in stock that have the right voltage. Tried the 12v mod, didn't like the outcome.
So I originally swapped some white LEDs into my center console switches/HVAC, and was very underwhelmed, and had lots of hotspots. Decided to switch to red, this time bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072XGL9XK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
The issue with all these China neowedge housings is they are crap and don’t lock in place well, so I unbent the LED wires of both the stock bulbs and new LEDs and swapped housings. Much better fit.
Additionally for the HVAC data readout display, the white LEDs I put in had the same issue as everyone else: they were dim and had a brownish hue, even after doing the 12V mod. So I did a tear down of the entire panel and finally got to the LCD display. Tried a lot of light positions both directly behind the LCD and further back and they all sucked for light distribution with the LEDs. What I ended up doing was drilling out the stupid plastic pieces that block the LEDs from directly shining on the LCD. Once those were off I got MUCH better light distribution. There is a slight hot spot in front of each bulb that is minuscule enough for me to be very satisfied.
The photos I took highlight the hotspot and make it look way worse than it is. To the naked eye it’s barely visible. Color looks Amber in photo but is deep red.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072XGL9XK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
The issue with all these China neowedge housings is they are crap and don’t lock in place well, so I unbent the LED wires of both the stock bulbs and new LEDs and swapped housings. Much better fit.
Additionally for the HVAC data readout display, the white LEDs I put in had the same issue as everyone else: they were dim and had a brownish hue, even after doing the 12V mod. So I did a tear down of the entire panel and finally got to the LCD display. Tried a lot of light positions both directly behind the LCD and further back and they all sucked for light distribution with the LEDs. What I ended up doing was drilling out the stupid plastic pieces that block the LEDs from directly shining on the LCD. Once those were off I got MUCH better light distribution. There is a slight hot spot in front of each bulb that is minuscule enough for me to be very satisfied.
The photos I took highlight the hotspot and make it look way worse than it is. To the naked eye it’s barely visible. Color looks Amber in photo but is deep red.
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Needle Color
Can you change the color of the indicator needles?
Here is my write up on how to change the color of your interior lights for the 4th Gen 4Runner.
**Disclaimer: This "how to" is for informational purposes only. I take no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle. If you do not have basic soldering skills, please do not attempt. Serious damage could occur.**
Tools needed to remove cluster/steering wheel controls/HVAC unit:
10mm Socket (used to take apart dash/disconnect negative battery)
Small flat head screwdriver (remove steering wheel panels and unscrew bulb holders)
medium Phillips screwdriver (remove steering wheel control)
T-30 Hex Driver (disconnect Air Bag from steering wheel)
Tools needed or suggested to complete LED swap:
I know the fork is ghetto but it works...
15 PLCC-2 Surface Mount SMT LEDs (2-RPM, 3-Speedometer, 3-odometer, 2-gear selector backlight, 1-Fuel, 1-temp, 3-steering wheel controls)
20-backlight only/16-indicators(1-rear window, 1*-4x4 switch, 1-Reset/Mode, 2-HVAC screen, 1-defrost, 1-recirculate, 1-fan speed, 1-A/C, 1-Fan location, 1-cup holder, 1-gear selector, 1-DAC, 1-window, 1-Air bag, 1-Passenger indicator, 1 or 2-115V, 1-RSCA off, 1-VSC, 1-Diff lock)
Useful links:
<a href="http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/">Remove lower dash, center console and HVAC unit</a>
<a href="http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225203">Detailed how-to to swap Steering wheel control LED's</a>. I won't go over this since slvrAZtaco's write-up is thorough.
<B>Cluster LED Swap</B>
1) disconnect battery using the 10mm socket
2) Remove lower driver side dash and let it hang (Step 3 - <a href="http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/">How to Remove the Navigation Head Unit from a 2003 Toyota 4Runner)</a>
- While you have it disconnected, you can pull all the switches located on this panel
3) Grab the trim surrounding the gauge cluster near the bottom and pull towards you. Clips are the only thing holding it in place.
4) There are 3 screws/10mm bolts holding the gauge cluster and 2 bolts connecting the harnesses.
This is what's behind the cluster
5) Remove the clear lens and interior black trim. both pieces are held on by plastic tabs.
6) Remove white plastic backing
7) Take pictures of the needle positions at rest. It’s very important to keep the gauges accurate throughout.
8) Use the fork to lift the needle off the metal shaft safely. I found the fork is able to lift the needle while keeping it level and it will prevent you from accidentally twisting the needle during removal
9) Remove the gauge face and reveal the white base with the plastic light distribution lens
10) Take care when you are removing the odometer LCD. When you separate the white base and the PCB, do it evenly so you won't damage the prongs.
Note:
- i found it easy to melt one side and carefully lift up that edge just enough to disengage. Then melt the other side to remove with tweezers.
- make sure you clean all old solder off the pads using the wick or solder sucker
- flux each pad
- Tin the pads
- The notch on the LED is the cathode. On the cluster, it has arrows to identify the direction you should place the LED.
- make sure you clean any extra flux off the PCB by using the contact cleaner sprayed on a q-tip after you attach the LED.
Pay close attention to the LCD odometer. Make sure you don't get any fingerprints on the leads or bend the leads when re-inserting the LCD into the PCB.
Once you're done, reassemble in reverse order.
Can you change the color of the indicator needles?
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