Full suspension change (Inc UCAs and strut top mounts), & X-REAS removal

[SurferUK]

I searched but of course there are loads of results, don't worry I am not looking for a how to guide.

I am looking for 'How hard?' anecdotes! I know there are some seriously good mechanics here. What was this job like for you?

My capabilities are moderate, luckily so far this truck has proved very nice to work on.

I have done all the common fluid maintenance items, changed spark plugs etc, and both rear brake calipers and pads. So I know one end of a spanner from another, but much as I would love to overhaul the suspension myself, I wonder if it is beyond my abilities.

Are there any special/specific tools required?

Feel free to keep your replies short, your experience of doing the job is what matters to me!

 

[eleven14]

I searched but of course there are loads of results, don't worry I am not looking for a how to guide.

I am looking for 'How hard?' anecdotes! I know there are some seriously good mechanics here. What was this job like for you?

My capabilities are moderate, luckily so far this truck has proved very nice to work on.

I have done all the common fluid maintenance items, changed spark plugs etc, and both rear brake calipers and pads. So I know one end of a spanner from another, but much as I would love to overhaul the suspension myself, I wonder if it is beyond my abilities.

Are there any special/specific tools required?

Feel free to keep your replies short, your experience of doing the job is what matters to me!

I did the job minus UCAs a few years ago and it was my first project beyond a battery swap. You can absolutely do it and with the proper prep, save yourself some pain. The biggest variable will be seized fasteners.

• Hit all accessible bolts with PB Blaster or the like in the weeks leading up to the project;
• You'll need a torque wrench, breaker bar, jack stands and a decent floor jack;
• Do yourself a favor and buy ratcheting wrenches;
• A cold chisel and hammer was key for me to break the rust-fused top hats free.

Good luck, plenty of folks on here have been there and can support if you get stuck.

 

[rdruss]

What eleven14 said. I too did this a couple years ago including UCA, not all that difficult, just use the non-spring compressor method on front and it's even easier.

 

[SurferUK]

What eleven14 said. I too did this a couple years ago including UCA, not all that difficult, just use the non-spring compressor method on front and it's even easier.

I did the job minus UCAs a few years ago and it was my first project beyond a battery swap. You can absolutely do it and with the proper prep, save yourself some pain. The biggest variable will be seized fasteners.

• Hit all accessible bolts with PB Blaster or the like in the weeks leading up to the project;
• You'll need a torque wrench, breaker bar, jack stands and a decent floor jack;
• Do yourself a favor and buy ratcheting wrenches;
• A cold chisel and hammer was key for me to break the rust-fused top hats free.

Good luck, plenty of folks on here have been there and can support if you get stuck.

That's great news and thank you for those tips!

What is the non spring compressor method?

(Don't worry I found it, I thought it was a forum 'slang' term but that is what it's actually called! No Spring Compressor Method - What it is and How to do it - The Track Ahead)

 

[Cezar]

I would rate it about a 4/10. It's not that hard. There are a lot of steps but none of them are particularly difficult, and there is pretty much only one way that everything goes together. The only thing I found challenging was trying to get the strut top nuts off, but even that wasn't too bad. I strongly recommend getting gearwrenches for that step just for convenience

I would recommend just using a spring compressor. I think it's the easier route tbh. You really do not have to compress the springs very much at all. If you are using a spring compressor and you find you are compressing a lot of energy into the spring, back off and try a different position, it shouldn't take much.

Also:

Hit all accessible bolts with PB Blaster or the like in the weeks leading up to the project;

So much this.

 

[Bluesky 07]

You can do it. What everyone here said is accurate. The post linked in my sig has some helpful info from my experience and the FSM.

The front top hat bolt on the inside (toward vehicle center) is tough to reach but [MENTION=15785]J.A.[/MENTION]’s idea of using a socket cap to get a wrench on it is golden.

 

[SurferUK]

I would rate it about a 4/10. It's not that hard. There are a lot of steps but none of them are particularly difficult, and there is pretty much only one way that everything goes together. The only thing I found challenging was trying to get the strut top nuts off, but even that wasn't too bad. I strongly recommend getting gearwrenches for that step just for convenience

I would recommend just using a spring compressor. I think it's the easier route tbh. You really do not have to compress the springs very much at all. If you are using a spring compressor and you find you are compressing a lot of energy into the spring, back off and try a different position, it shouldn't take much.

Also:



So much this.

You can do it. What everyone here said is accurate. The post linked in my sig has some helpful info from my experience and the FSM.

The front top hat bolt on the inside (toward vehicle center) is tough to reach but [MENTION=15785]J.A.[/MENTION]’s idea of using a socket cap to get a wrench on it is golden.

Thanks very much guys. I will get a set of those socket caps!

One more thing, the only upgraded suspension I have been able to find has a +50mm lift (Just under 2 inches). In your opinion is this going to need any further adjustments/modifications to prevent damage?

 

[eleven14]

Thanks very much guys. I will get a set of those socket caps!

One more thing, the only upgraded suspension I have been able to find has a +50mm lift (Just under 2 inches). In your opinion is this going to need any further adjustments/modifications to prevent damage?

In theory, you should be fine with no modification, what shocks/springs are you considering? And if your CVs are original, you may want to prepare to replace and/or reboot them post-lift.

 

[SurferUK]

In theory, you should be fine with no modification, what shocks/springs are you considering?

All I can get here is for the FJ Cruiser which I believe is identical running gear.

Old Man Emu OME Suspension Lift Kit Toyota FJ Cruiser 2006-20 - 4x4 Works

The Aussies seem to rate OME suspension. It's quite interesting doing cross-continental research :bounce:


I haven't got a price OEM Toyota shocks/springs as I believe you need to keep the X-REAS system for those, and although mine seems fine and certainly doesn't leak, based on what I read here, I was going to just junk it. My Honda motorbike came with fairly mediocre standard suspension, so I upgraded that too. (It seems to be fairly common on Japanese vehicles. )

And if your CVs are original, you may want to prepare to replace and/or reboot them post-lift.

Is that just from them being 'settled' at the previous standard ride height?

 

[Bluesky 07]

My understanding (translation: please confirm with others) is that no additional adjustments are needed as long as your lift is less than 3".

 

[eleven14]

All I can get here is for the FJ Cruiser which I believe is identical running gear.

Old Man Emu OME Suspension Lift Kit Toyota FJ Cruiser 2006-20 - 4x4 Works

The Aussies seem to rate OME suspension. It's quite interesting doing cross-continental research :bounce:

Lol, looks like a good kit, is Dobinson's not available in UK? Not sure on the differences between FJ/4R other than stiffer spring rates (I'm running Moog FJ springs and dislike them).

Is that just from them being 'settled' at the previous standard ride height?

Right, the rubber ages and becomes less flexible. The new, (likely) more severe CV angle usually causes them to start slinging grease sooner than later.

 

[SurferUK]

Lol, looks like a good kit, is Dobinson's not available in UK? Not sure on the differences between FJ/4R other than stiffer spring rates (I'm running Moog FJ springs and dislike them).


Right, the rubber ages and becomes less flexible. The new, (likely) more severe CV angle usually causes them to start slinging grease sooner than later.

Thanks for having a look at it mate It carries all my tools in the back so if FJ suspension is softer they do various spring types so maybe I'll go for a firmer spring. We don't have Dobinson's, but you just reminded me to check Bilstein as we have those here, sadly I don't get any results for 5100.

That's exactly why I would happily have stuck with the existing height, there's always knock-on effects to other components! Never mind, it's not too big of a deal.

 

[SurferUK]

My understanding (translation: please confirm with others) is that no additional adjustments are needed as long as your lift is less than 3".

Sorry bluesky I totally missed this post, thanks for that!