InfamousRNR's 2002 Limited BU!LD THREAD
- Thread starter infamousRNR
- Start date
LittleCaesar
New member
Nice rubber and video. Speaking of I haven't seen Tim on the forum lately....
infamousRNR
Senior Member
thanks my dude! I've always wanted the color you have on your rig. I love the millennium silver. Now its time to get to work & update your build thread!
I painted the inside of the rims red, for extra HP. SICK MODS !!!
so after calling around i finally settled on palace to mount & balance them & first impressions are good... but it seems like they weren't balanced right because i still have vibrations at speed & a weird droning noise like there is a flat spot in one of the rear tires....
I'm thinking it might be the drive shaft or something in the rear axle because it was a similar noise with the swampers.
He went one a 3 week adventure in Oregon with some buddies mountain biking for the better part of July & then got home & went to fight fires near santa barbara for a good while...
but don't worry, we have a front diff video, A/C recharge video & a trans mount & engine mount video coming out soon. so stay tuned!
fourfive
Senior Member
:cheers:
infamousRNR
Senior Member
Tim told me that the trans and engine mount info came from your write up dude, so thanks for that!!!
TeamPez
New member
Legit Build
Just spent the last few hours going through your thread. Awesome information and upgrades. Just getting started on our new to us '02. Ordering suspension parts this week. Follow all of your maintenance videos with Tim as well. Videos were cool as my wife grew up near San Jose. We still get out there once a year to visit. Keep up the mods and how to vids.
Just spent the last few hours going through your thread. Awesome information and upgrades. Just getting started on our new to us '02. Ordering suspension parts this week. Follow all of your maintenance videos with Tim as well. Videos were cool as my wife grew up near San Jose. We still get out there once a year to visit. Keep up the mods and how to vids.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
MarkamisPrime
New member
infamousRNR
Senior Member
hey [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] i thought you would appreciate this...look at the "likes"
Visited [MENTION=83666]renosauce[/MENTION] & we addressed my bumper gap. cut the ARB bumper mount & welded it 1.5" higher. I "borrowed" this idea from [MENTION=46329]blcktpgsr[/MENTION] . He has a rad build thread
he also welded on these awesome lateral control rod lift & drop brackets made by [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]
Visited [MENTION=83666]renosauce[/MENTION] & we addressed my bumper gap. cut the ARB bumper mount & welded it 1.5" higher. I "borrowed" this idea from [MENTION=46329]blcktpgsr[/MENTION] . He has a rad build thread
he also welded on these awesome lateral control rod lift & drop brackets made by [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]
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StreetCreeper
New member
I'd "like" your post but don't want to break the spell! I'm high as fugg and 46 hours into a 3 day fast – so I'll smoke a bowl in place of a "like"! :hat:
infamousRNR
Senior Member
A couple more pictures of the Pan Hard Drop & Lift bracket. [MENTION=83666]renosauce[/MENTION] had a good idea to give the the lift bracket on the axle a little extra support.
Hit a cool mileage on the way home from all the sick mods in Santa Cruz, CA.
The ARB bumper body lift "MOD", where we cut the mount & welded it 1.5" higher than it was before
Hit a cool mileage on the way home from all the sick mods in Santa Cruz, CA.
The ARB bumper body lift "MOD", where we cut the mount & welded it 1.5" higher than it was before
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infamousRNR
Senior Member
Fixed some broken fobs with AJT Design'd injection molded plastic replacements.
Bought a BROKEN USED one off eBay for $10 & programmed it. I just referenced the FCC ID on the back of the FOB For a search word.
My locks were acting up too... the drivers side wasn't always cooperating with a fast lock and unlock so I had to help it manually with my hand when I was cycling the lock/unlock button on the door.
Programming worked first time!
1. Start with the following conditions: you are in the vehicle
a. Key is out of the ignition
b. Drive door is open ( all other doors are closed)
c. Driver door is unlocked (other door locks don't matter)
2. Insert the key into the ignition (don't turn it) and pull it out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Cycle the power locks 5 times. Use an even pace and try
to go relatively fast.
b. Close, then open the drivers door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Cycle the power locks 5 times (same as before).
b. Turn the ignition to ON then back to OFF.
c. Turn the ignition to ON then back to OFF.
d. Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle (automatically)
indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1
if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Press the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter
simultaneously for 1 second.
b. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons,
press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds.
Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle ( LOCK then
UNLOCK) once-- indicating successful programming. If
the door locks don't cycle, or cycle twice. Repeat steps
6a and 6b--this remote has not been accepted.
c. Repeat steps 6a and 6b for EACH transmitter that will
operate the vehicle. Including any old transmitters.
7. Close the driver door.
Bought a BROKEN USED one off eBay for $10 & programmed it. I just referenced the FCC ID on the back of the FOB For a search word.
My locks were acting up too... the drivers side wasn't always cooperating with a fast lock and unlock so I had to help it manually with my hand when I was cycling the lock/unlock button on the door.
Programming worked first time!
1. Start with the following conditions: you are in the vehicle
a. Key is out of the ignition
b. Drive door is open ( all other doors are closed)
c. Driver door is unlocked (other door locks don't matter)
2. Insert the key into the ignition (don't turn it) and pull it out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Cycle the power locks 5 times. Use an even pace and try
to go relatively fast.
b. Close, then open the drivers door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Cycle the power locks 5 times (same as before).
b. Turn the ignition to ON then back to OFF.
c. Turn the ignition to ON then back to OFF.
d. Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle (automatically)
indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1
if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a. Press the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter
simultaneously for 1 second.
b. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons,
press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds.
Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle ( LOCK then
UNLOCK) once-- indicating successful programming. If
the door locks don't cycle, or cycle twice. Repeat steps
6a and 6b--this remote has not been accepted.
c. Repeat steps 6a and 6b for EACH transmitter that will
operate the vehicle. Including any old transmitters.
7. Close the driver door.
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Last edited:
cblock406
Member
Wow, thanks man! Very cool of you.
JooseBawxx
New member
This is a great build thread. Especially appreciate the videos. Lots of inspiration here. Between this and Unner's build I pretty much have my wish list locked down. Subscribed!
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