Need opinion on colors........Its dip time!

Need opinion on colors........Its dip time!

  • Battleship Gray

    Votes: 14 16.3%
  • Flat Black

    Votes: 13 15.1%
  • Flat White

    Votes: 4 4.7%
  • Camo Green

    Votes: 54 62.8%
  • Gunmetal

    Votes: 1 1.2%

  • Total voters
    86
  • Poll closed .
I doubt you have ever used Plastidip?

I painted a large portion of my hood - with the rattlecan no less- and it was smooth as silk. As long as the paint is warm(as others have stated) it goes down without orange peel.

As far as "not getting adhesion on the glossy paint" proves to me that you have never used Plastidip. It will stick perfectly.

Agreed. I haven't done a huge surface like a hood, but I've got my technique down on bike frames and motorcycle fairings. It literally sticks to anything lol.
 
Any tips on getting clean tape lines on painted surfaces. I've heard to tape things off and wait to spray the taped edges until the last 2 coats and then pull the tape while the dip is still wet around the edges.
 
The matte clear has me considering a dip now... That and doing the front moustache matte black a la trail edition (Have a CDN SR5 so same bumper as TE but all body coloured).

I voted Battleship Grey, but only because Tan wasn't an option! There was a matte tan LR3 I saw in overland journal that was awesome.
 
rear-3-4-xplore-fj-cruiser.jpg
:naughty:

More pics here (in case anyone is interested): Xplore FJ Cruiser: Explore our country, bring a gas card | Hooniverse
 
I doubt you have ever used Plastidip?

I painted a large portion of my hood - with the rattlecan no less- and it was smooth as silk. As long as the paint is warm(as others have stated) it goes down without orange peel.

As far as "not getting adhesion on the glossy paint" proves to me that you have never used Plastidip. It will stick perfectly.

I have used plasti-dip, on tools, etc. where it was designed to be used.
They dont make $200/gallon automotive primer and $300/gallon urethane paint for no reason. Body shops don't scuff the existing paint on a car before they paint it for not reason.

If you see plasti-dip as a solution for painting an entire car then you have never painted a car or worked in a proper body shop.

An example of how easy plasti-dip scratches and peels off of gloss paint can be found at; Blacked Out Emblems with Plasti Dip - YouTube
Would it be acceptable for you if the paint peeled off your car this easy (think about the areas around your door handles and how often you touch that area with your keys)? If yes, then go ahead and plasti-dip it.

As for the scratching, it's one thing to apply proper pressure to cut a strip of pinstriping without effecting the paint. It's another to cut around the perimeter of every body panel on an entire vehicle, especially one as big as a 4Runner. You will minimally scratch the clear-coat....not soimething I'd want to do to my $40,000 vehicle.
I've worked with many pro vehicle wrappers in L.A. and believe me, they wrap the cars very quickly and the vehicles are typically owned by the comany sponsoring it (who does not care about preserving the longavity fo teh paint underneath). They absolutely DO cut into the paint with their blades when trimming.
 
I have used plasti-dip, on tools, etc. where it was designed to be used.
They dont make $200/gallon automotive primer and $300/gallon urethane paint for no reason. Body shops don't scuff the existing paint on a car before they paint it for not reason.

If you see plasti-dip as a solution for painting an entire car then you have never painted a car or worked in a proper body shop.

An example of how easy plasti-dip scratches and peels off of gloss paint can be found at; Blacked Out Emblems with Plasti Dip - YouTube
Would it be acceptable for you if the paint peeled off your car this easy (think about the areas around your door handles and how often you touch that area with your keys)? If yes, then go ahead and plasti-dip it.

As for the scratching, it's one thing to apply proper pressure to cut a strip of pinstriping without effecting the paint. It's another to cut around the perimeter of every body panel on an entire vehicle, especially one as big as a 4Runner. You will minimally scratch the clear-coat....not soimething I'd want to do to my $40,000 vehicle.
I've worked with many pro vehicle wrappers in L.A. and believe me, they wrap the cars very quickly and the vehicles are typically owned by the comany sponsoring it (who does not care about preserving the longavity fo teh paint underneath). They absolutely DO cut into the paint with their blades when trimming.

You're missing the point of why people use plastic dip......It's temporary. No one is expecting to last for a long period of time. If I have to redo it 1-2 times a year I'm fine with it. I use it because it peels off. My friend uses it on his ZR1 Vette for track days....to protect his paint.

My parents owned a body/paint shop. I grew up painting cars, so I'm all to familiar with that process.
 
Would it be acceptable for you if the paint peeled off your car this easy (think about the areas around your door handles and how often you touch that area with your keys)? If yes, then go ahead and plasti-dip it.

Um. I did.

Door handle link.

Wife opens the doors with her rings, I open the doors with my keys in my hand. Dip is still there. Had it on my wheels for over a year, no issues.

Why don't you stick with what you know until you actually have some real world experience?
 
You're missing the point of why people use plastic dip......It's temporary. No one is expecting to last for a long period of time. If I have to redo it 1-2 times a year I'm fine with it. I use it because it peels off. My friend uses it on his ZR1 Vette for track days....to protect his paint.

My parents owned a body/paint shop. I grew up painting cars, so I'm all to familiar with that process.

10-4 on it being intentionally temporary.
I too like the flat/semi-gloss look, but have more of a mind for spending my time and $ on more permanence. I really like the Hot Rod Flatz paint that guys are using these days.
 
Um. I did.

Door handle link.

Wife opens the doors with her rings, I open the doors with my keys in my hand. Dip is still there. Had it on my wheels for over a year, no issues.

Why don't you stick with what you know until you actually have some real world experience?

I have plenty of real world experience. I have built concept cars for Chrysler and GM. I have used plasti-dip on things it's designed to be used for and some things, like prototype models, that it's not designed to be used for. Maybe I have a higher standard for what I consider an acceptable finish on a vehicle. I am quite sure that If I properly prepped and painted your door handles. etc. with catalyzed urethane, the appearance and/or durablity would be at a higher level.

Like I said above, if it's acceptable to you, then by all means have at it.
 
I have plenty of real world experience. I have built concept cars for Chrysler and GM. I have used plasti-dip on things it's designed to be used for and some things, like prototype models, that it's not designed to be used for. Maybe I have a higher standard for what I consider an acceptable finish on a vehicle. I am quite sure that If I properly prepped and painted your door handles. etc. with catalyzed urethane, the appearance and/or durablity would be at a higher level.

Like I said above, if it's acceptable to you, then by all means have at it.

You have built concept cars for Chrysler and GM? Why are you driving a 4Runner then? Oh, I just answered my own question. Let me know when you find something that will not scratch on a curb or tire change or briars on a trail. Factory paint won't cut it and they did a good job preparing it. Neither would the Imron I used that summer I painted 30 beer trucks for my dad. He owned a shop, had a team to prep and I painted 4 a week for 7+ weeks. Nasty stuff and guess what...it still chipped!

Best part about plastidip is you can peel it off when you get tired of it and it costs almost nothing to do.
 
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I have plenty of real world experience. I have built concept cars for Chrysler and GM. I have used plasti-dip on things it's designed to be used for and some things, like prototype models, that it's not designed to be used for. Maybe I have a higher standard for what I consider an acceptable finish on a vehicle. I am quite sure that If I properly prepped and painted your door handles. etc. with catalyzed urethane, the appearance and/or durablity would be at a higher level.

Like I said above, if it's acceptable to you, then by all means have at it.

I do not intend for this to come off offensively at all, but have you ever actually tried out a can of aerosol plasti-dip on a painted surface? If not, you should try it out sometime if you are still skeptical. It works as everyone says it does and is pretty durable if you throw on enough coats, I swear :)
 
You have built concept cars for Chrysler and GM? Why are you driving a 4Runner then? Oh, I just answered my own question. Let me know when you find something that will not scratch on a curb or tire change or briars on a trail. Factory paint won't cut it and they did a good job preparing it. Neither would the Imron I used that summer I painted 30 beer trucks for my dad. He owned a shop, had a team to prep and I painted 4 a week for 7+ weeks. Nasty stuff and guess what...it still chipped!

Best part about plastidip is you can peel it off when you get tired of it and it costs almost nothing to do.

Understood...
i'm driving a 4Runner because it is the best reliable daily driver around in that size and price range. I am hard on vehicle, so I needed something besides a truck that is durable. Building concept cars does not pay as well as one might think and I have many other "project" vehicles that are not exactly reliable.

You're showing your age with your mention of Imron. The old Imron (before they took the iso-cyanates out and later made it water based) was good stuff. I used to paint semi cabs with it as well. Very scratch resistant, but it did have a tendency to chip though. I painted a 69 Cadillac with Imron in 1989 and a mouse ran across the booth floor and died in mid-stride. The "new" water based Imron is garbage, it does not flow-out.
 
I don't think you know how durable plastidip really is.

You can take it through a car wash and it'll still be there.

Plasti Dip Through Car Wash? Does it Last? - YouTube

You can also use a pressure washer....

Like I said before, its temporary. A lot of members here know that I like to change things up. I abuse my rig, I just want to throw some dip on there to preserve my already crappy paint, so its not so much of an eye sore.

You may not want to do it to your $40k vehicle, but I actually take my rig out on the trails. Some may call me crazy, but if I didn't want to do what I do, I would've bought a Prius instead.

And I'm not using cans. You can buy dip in gallons, its actually cheaper too. I'll be using a real spray gun, 4-5 coats will be plenty.
 

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