"Oops, Rolled the Runner!" a.k.a. Grocery-Getter v.2.0 build

[white_n_slow]

So to be clear, you have full Tundra TRD assemblies up front, LC coils and bilsteins in the rear, right? I'd love to see better pictures of the old vs. new rear upper shock mounts, too, if you have them. Interested in going this way myself.

Yes, that is my setup. The rear bilseins are off-the-shelf 5125 of the 10" travel variety. To measure the correct shock needed, I just flexed the rear axle as far as it would go in both directions and measured the eye-to-eye distance when fully stuffed and fully drooped. Then compare to the Bilstein chart to see which one will fit. These shocks are way softer than my previous LC shocks, and so far I really like them. They may be a little underkill once I add a spare tire carrier and bumper, but we'll see.

This is not my picture, but I have pretty much the same setup (only mine is more parallel to the frame rail, rather than perpendicular, if that makes any sense). The stock rear shocks are a pin type upper mount. Basically the rod of the shock sticks straight up and mounts through a hole in the frame using a nut on top to hold everything together. You can see the stock hole between the mounting tabs in this photo.

All I did was weld up two tabs in a stockish location so that I could use an eye-to-eye shock rather than a stock pin type (which is damn near impossible to remove or work on without destroying the shock).

 

[tre9er]

Yes, that is my setup. The rear bilseins are off-the-shelf 5125 of the 10" travel variety. To measure the correct shock needed, I just flexed the rear axle as far as it would go in both directions and measured the eye-to-eye distance when fully stuffed and fully drooped. Then compare to the Bilstein chart to see which one will fit. These shocks are way softer than my previous LC shocks, and so far I really like them. They may be a little underkill once I add a spare tire carrier and bumper, but we'll see.

This is not my picture, but I have pretty much the same setup (only mine is more parallel to the frame rail, rather than perpendicular, if that makes any sense). The stock rear shocks are a pin type upper mount. Basically the rod of the shock sticks straight up and mounts through a hole in the frame using a nut on top to hold everything together. You can see the stock hole between the mounting tabs in this photo.

All I did was weld up two tabs in a stockish location so that I could use an eye-to-eye shock rather than a stock pin type (which is damn near impossible to remove or work on without destroying the shock).

Thanks. I've read guys talk about putting the adapter bracket up there then tacking it in place when everything is mostly tight, then removing the OEM bolt from the equation (or leaving it, I guess, doesn't matter once tacked). I'm no great welder, but I think I can handle this.

 

[white_n_slow]

I threw the 285's back on so I could go up camping and wheeling this weekend. We did a local trail that is usually challenging, but it must have washed out a lot this spring because it was nearly impassible. I also just got an alignment last week, and now it's not so good anymore

With the rear locker on, I still had a lot of wheel spin. I'm not sure it's working properly. Does anyone know a good check other than to put one wheel on pavement and one wheel on dirt and do a good burn-out?

lol, yes I'm a redneck.

Anyhow, I think if the locker is working properly, I may give up on the 35's and r&p gears for now and invest in a front locker instead. Either pony up the ca$h for an ARB or get manual hubs and an aussie.

We ran the trail at night, so all you get is a picture of my mobile bedroom.

 

[white_n_slow]

I may give up on the 35's and r&p gears for now and invest in a front locker instead.

Eating my words a little bit here. I just bought a front diff rebuilt with 4.88 gears. I was originally planning on 5.29, but I got a screaming deal on the diff and I couldn't say no. 4.88 *should* work with 33's or 35's, so there's that. Although I do prefer lower gearing just as a matter of driving style. It's a compromise, but it should save me some coin If I run 35's and decide it doesn't have enough pep, I can always get a supercharger or 4.7 low range :spy:

Now I need to verify my rear locker is working, and if so, ponder whether I can afford one for the front while I have the diff out.

 

[downpour11]

Eating my words a little bit here. I just bought a front diff rebuilt with 4.88 gears. I was originally planning on 5.29, but I got a screaming deal on the diff and I couldn't say no. 4.88 *should* work with 33's or 35's, so there's that. Although I do prefer lower gearing just as a matter of driving style. It's a compromise, but it should save me some coin If I run 35's and decide it doesn't have enough pep, I can always get a supercharger or 4.7 low range :spy:

Now I need to verify my rear locker is working, and if so, ponder whether I can afford one for the front while I have the diff out.

Are you still trying to figure out how to get those wheels mounted? I was actually thinking about your situation the other day. I'm still guessing if you want to run 35's you'll have to swap those wheels out.

 

[white_n_slow]

Are you still trying to figure out how to get those wheels mounted? I was actually thinking about your situation the other day. I'm still guessing if you want to run 35's you'll have to swap those wheels out.

Yeah, my only other option is to run 2" spacers, which seems somehow wrong to me. I know people who run a pre-85 solid axle on newer IFS trucks often use them to bring the axles to the same length, but something just doesn't sit right with me using a spacer that big. I could also use an aftermarket UCA to make a little more room, but I don't think it's worth the money (unless I get some cheap used UCA's), and still not guaranteed to fit.

I honestly think I'll just sell the 315's and the 17" wheels all together and use the money towards a re-gear for the rear axle or a front locker. My cooper 285's have plenty of tread left, so it would be more practical to just run them for a while. But my ego will suffer, 33's just don't quite compensate for my diminutive member like a 35 would.

 

[downpour11]

That's a good decision though. Also, I don't think any company makes hub-centric 2" spacers. Nice come up on the 4.88's!

 

[white_n_slow]

Just a quick photo update. New front diff with Yukon ring and pinion

In other news, my buddy is dropping off the welder for the week (we bought it together, but he's building a race car, so I don't get much time with the welder). I think I'm going to re-do my sliders and run them flat like a running board and either screw down the plastic from the factory running boards or weld in some sheet to fill them in.

My wife and stepdaughter are both klutzes and my mom is 5 feet tall, so I figure I owe it to them to ease ingress/egress a little bit.

 

[white_n_slow]

Went up to Red Cone pass yesterday to scope out some camping spots. Pretty cool trail, I've never been there before. Not much in the way of technical wheeling, but man was there some scenery up there!

 

[white_n_slow]

I practically ran into this goat before I noticed him because I was so focused on keeping the truck pointed straight

The last pic is the top of Webster pass, which was obviously still closed due to the 20' snow drift I think Dirtco just went up here a couple weeks ago, right?

 

[white_n_slow]

You can see here from a distance the snow drift covering the top of the other trail.

 

[fightman80]

My first time seeing this thread.... nice rig man!

 

[white_n_slow]

I had another thought related to tires.

285/75-17 is basically a 34x11x17. Since it is a little smaller diameter-wise and no doubt lighter than a 315/70-17, it would probably be a better match to my 4.88 gears. It is also narrow enough that I might be able to get it to fit without contacting the UCA with my current "sport" wheels. It would be 30mm narrower, or about .6" per side, so it would still be pretty close. I wish there was a way to test fit without paying for the tire an mounting.

The other potential issue with this tire is selection. As far as I can tell, you can only get this tire in 3 flavors:
BFG KM2 - too rich for my blood. Also probably not the best winter tire
Nitto - I read several reviews saying these tires wear out in 20-25k miles
Toyo - The open country AT2 seems like a pretty good tire. 50k warranty too.

Not much chance of finding good used ones.

Anybody care to chime in on Toyo or Nitto? Any experience with this size?

 

[cdrewferd]

I'm getting a set of the 285/75/17 Toyo MT's this week. They'll be going on my Tundra 17s. I got spacers just in case. Since you're local(ish) once I have them you're welcome to come check them out.

 

[white_n_slow]

I'm getting a set of the 285/75/17 Toyo MT's this week. They'll be going on my Tundra 17s. I got spacers just in case. Since you're local(ish) once I have them you're welcome to come check them out.

I'm actually in Westminster too! That would be awesome

 

[cdrewferd]

Cool. I'll shoot you a PM when I get them. Hopefully by Friday.

 

[SCRunner12]

I'd check into these. $550 for 3 and you can get a 4th for around $250, so $800 for practically new tires. Wish I could pick them up as it's the size I want now. Like new Toyo 285/75/17 AT II Tires - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

 

[white_n_slow]

Man that is tempting.

I just sold my stock wheels and tires for $250, could probably sell the BFG's for $500, that would pretty much pay for these tires. Then sell my 285's with wheels to pay for the rear axle re-gear.

I'm just typing it all out to see if it actually makes sense

 

[white_n_slow]

Not really much of an update, but I went to my buddy's cabin and did some night wheeling in the rain. My power antenna was mortally wounded in the car wash about a month ago. And after this trip, it was dealt it's death blow.

Nothing much else going on. I would like to tinker with front and rear bumpers and get my sliders mounted up but my friend who went in on the welder with me is no longer talking to me or my wife. Oops.

 

[4RunnerChaos]

Sad looking antenna
And that sucks about the welder etc.
Just remember no flipping it!