Overheated today + Aftermarket vs OEM radiator?

[ArmArak]

Hi guys,

Today when I was driving my car overheated. It was 106F (41C), I had the AC on, and was in stop and go traffic. Its never happened before but the temperature climbed up to about 80% of the dial so I immediately pulled over and opened the hood. After it cooled down I continued driving and had zero problems for the rest of the day. IDK if the thermostat had a glitch, or what went wrong, any ideas?

I'm worried my radiator might have inadequate flow, because when I did a coolant flush a few months back the reservoir was VERY dirty and the hose leading to it was pretty much clogged.

Anyway, I'm going to change the thermostat and want to change the radiator while I'm at it. I'm stuck between getting OEM vs Aftermarket. I am usually die hard OEM, but if an aftermarket will improve my performance I might be ok with it. Can someone give me a pros and cons of aftermarket vs OEM?

Thanks!

 

[spartacus]

I would check the fan clutch to make sure it's good.
courtesy of [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
quote:
Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be careful, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.

Choice of radiators
also 'champion makes an all aluminium radiator.

 

[Skulking]

I would go OEM or Koyo. If you have an automatic transmission and are looking at going aftermarket remember that probably means adding a trans cooler since the trans uses the bottom portion of the stock radiator as the trans cooler.

This a a long thread but has a lot of useful information in it about the different radiator options.

 

[ArmArak]

I would go OEM or Koyo. If you have an automatic transmission and are looking at going aftermarket remember that probably means adding a trans cooler since the trans uses the bottom portion of the stock radiator as the trans cooler.

This a a long thread but has a lot of useful information in it about the different radiator options.

Oh right I forgot about that duh. I think In that case the OEM radiator is the way to go.

I’m still wondering what caused me to overheat today. I’ll test the clutch tomorrow.


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[ArmArak]

Also if anyone is wondering this is the highest the gauge got to.

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[Endlessblockades]

This doesn't really apply but your post got me thinking about my own 20 year old radiator and I was surprised to see how inexpensive the OEMs are:

There may well be cheaper, but this is from Saddleback (AZ) Toyota:

Radiator Assembly - Toyota (16410-AZ011)

List Price: $163.15 You Save: $32.63 (20% off) Sale Price: $130.52

Seems like a project I can't afford not to do.....

 

[ArmArak]

Another question. I just did a coolant flush 2 months ago. Can I reuse this coolant after replacing the radiator? I really dont want to buy it again! :doh:

 

[Dieselchessy]

You can’t really get an OEM radiator anymore. Even Toyota now sells the knock offs, Taiwan I believe. If you could actually find a Japan made new radiator it would be north of $400.

I’ve not seen an aftermarket that didn’t offer the internal trans cooler, but they probably exist.

I’ve had good experience with a few different C1998 Spectra Premium radiators from Autozone. Supposed to be made in North America.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

there was a thread in here about Koyo's 3-row radiator. You might like to look into that. It's thicker than the stock radiator. Only thing is it doesn't have the atf cooler so you'll need to install an external atf cooler. Koyo also has good atf coolers. Only thing is i think Koyo has its radiator/cooler factory in china


I would not reuse the coolant.

 

[pluton]

I agree that the fan clutch needs to be looked at.
At the Densoproducts.com site, which is really Sparkplugs.com, you can get a Denso radiator for $120. Last time(2013, 120K miles) I bought an OEM for $206(web dealer low price at the time), but I think they are the same as the Denso units.
Conventional wisdom: If the vehicle was intended to use a 2-row radiator, switching to a 3-row may decrease performance; poor cooling, or too much cooling leading to engine temps being too low, with resulting rich running or bad smog tests, etc.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

In this thread, Choice of radiators, the last post shows that the radiator is made in china

...
I’ve had good experience with a few different C1998 Spectra Premium radiators from Autozone. Supposed to be made in North America.

 

[toverturf]

I'd go with a OEM one. I replaced mine a few months ago with a Denso one and haven't had any issues. Also replaced the cap, hoses, thermostat, and fan clutch with all OEM parts. Make sure you burp the system well as that helps a lot with temps.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

Isn't the engine temp controlled by the thermostat? When the temp reaches a certain level, the thermostat starts to open and gradually allows cooled coolant from the radiator to gradually replace the the heated coolant in the engine and then when the coolant temp reaches a lower temp, it closes allowing the engine to maintain the desired temp.
The radiator only cools down the heated coolant to prepare it for the next cycle. a 3-row radiator has a higher heat dissipation capacity and a bigger coolant volume. this is helpful when the engine experiences heavy loads like when towing, going up mountains, and when off-roading

Conventional wisdom: If the vehicle was intended to use a 2-row radiator, switching to a 3-row may decrease performance; poor cooling, or too much cooling leading to engine temps being too low, with resulting rich running or bad smog tests, etc.

 

[Bad Luck]

Hi guys,

Today when I was driving my car overheated. It was 106F (41C), I had the AC on, and was in stop and go traffic. Its never happened before but the temperature climbed up to about 80% of the dial so I immediately pulled over and opened the hood. After it cooled down I continued driving and had zero problems for the rest of the day. IDK if the thermostat had a glitch, or what went wrong, any ideas?

I'm worried my radiator might have inadequate flow, because when I did a coolant flush a few months back the reservoir was VERY dirty and the hose leading to it was pretty much clogged.

Anyway, I'm going to change the thermostat and want to change the radiator while I'm at it. I'm stuck between getting OEM vs Aftermarket. I am usually die hard OEM, but if an aftermarket will improve my performance I might be ok with it. Can someone give me a pros and cons of aftermarket vs OEM?

Thanks!

Sounds more like a gunked up radiator or fan clutch starting to go bad rather than a thermostat, but thermostats are fairly cheap and you might as well replace it when you replace the radiator. Jiggle valve at 6 o'clock for thermostat.

I would go with a Denso or radiator from Toyota. Toyota is a Denso unit but they charge more. Some people have ordered Denso radiators off amazon but most show up damaged. All of the "upgraded" radiators don't include an internal trans cooler so you will need to add one. I would recommend replacing the radiator cap as well since it is likely as old as your radiator.

You can reuse your current coolant if you catch it in a clean container. You will likely need a little extra to top it off. I also recommend a lisle spill free funnel and parking on an uphill incline or raising the front end up with a jack to help with the burping/purging of the engine cooling system.

 

[LaurBalaur]

A useful trick to remember in stop and go to lower the temp - open all the windows and turn the heater on. Opens up another loop of heat exchange.

 

[Dieselchessy]

In this thread, Choice of radiators, the last post shows that the radiator is made in china

Looks like it. Not that it matters. I'd still choose it cause I've had 2, have one in my rig now, and they are good quality, decent price, readily available, and Autozone is easy to deal with.

 

[HiLife]

As other have said above you cannot get a oem Toyota factory radiator anymore. I ordered from a online oem Toyota parts supplier. When I opened the box a Denso radiator with a Denso part number was inside.
I could've saved money and just have ordered a Denso radiator the first time.

 

[phattyduck]

I'd suspect fan clutch or radiator cap first. If the radiator is looking old (tanks not black anymore), it should be replaced too.

Reusing new-ish coolant is fine, as another poster said. Just keep it clean.

That wasn't a serious overheat, so don't freak out. That was probably ~220*F or maybe a bit more.

-Charlie