Overheating Challenges - Please Help

jnettrecker

New member
Thanks in advance for any help or input and I apolagize in advance for the length of my post. Just trying to give you all the info I have. Honestly, I am at my wits end; although I used to be a motorcycle mechanic and have a general knowledge of wrench-turn-ology, I have very limited "acquired" knowledge of these trucks.

Vehicle:
I recently purchased this truck. It is a 1997 Toyota 4Runner Limited, 4x4 Automatic 3400 v6 w/ 226,000 miles. 1 owner, maintained at the stealership. All recalls done including head-gaskets. Runs perfect, no stutter, no miss, no oil in anti-freeze, no anti-freeze in oil (milky etc), no water vapor or strange smells from muffler (other than normal condensation), plenty of power, no funky hot or burning smells, and spark plugs look like new! If it were not overheating I would not be afraid to take this truck on a cross continent Safari. It truly is pristine!

Problem:
Dash gauge says truck over heats while going down the road. ONLY going down the road. Ambient temp while experiencing these symptoms range from 85F - 103F
-Let it idle, temp gauge only goes up to 50-60%
-Drive it like a hot rod, gauge only goes up to 75%
-Drive it down the highway at 70mph in OD and it hits the red block at the top in under 3 min.
I have taken my laser temp gun and shot the motor when it was at it's hottest points and the highest reading I have ever gotten has been 209F at the intake manifold and 187F at Radiator.
Interestingly enough I figured something out. If I keep the RPM's above 3,000 (manually shifting gear to gear) it never overheats. Matter of fact stays about 50%. I also discovered when I am driving in OD on highway and the gauge is nearing the danger zone, I can pop it in Neutral, raise the RPM's to 3,500 and it will drop to 50% in less than 10 seconds....... Whether or not gauge is reading accurate temps or not, who knows. However, I do know it is working percentage wise because results from all test have been consistent, not just a random jumping of the gauge.

Parts Replaced: (I know it isn't ideal, but so far All parts have been sourced from O'Reilly Auto as it is the only honest parts store close by, so my resources are somewhat limited. Toyota dealer is 1.25 hrs. Note: nothing I have done has changed the original symptom of overheating):
-New Radiator
-New 180F Thermostat (installed w/ dongle in 12 O'clock position)
-New Temperature sending unit (front passenger side of intake manifold under fuel rail)
-New 50/50 Antifreeze (O'Reilly Universal Coolant, this was the first thing done and made no difference whatsoever)

I'm thinking all I have left are the fan clutch and the water pump. I'm really tired of just replacing parts and would love some feedback on where I should go next or maybe a way to trouble shoot both of those items, or ANYTHING else I'm missing.........:redbrick:
 
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You might have trapped air in radiator. When was the last time timing belt change? Did they also change water pump? Water pump goes bad when its making clinking and scratching noise.

1 - Make sure you get all the air out of cooling system. Burp it, or do a vacuum.
2 - Check fan clutch, if its free wheeling or no resistant, fan clutch is done.
3 - Squeeze the upper hose while the engine is running. You'll feel the water moving.
 
Did you bought the thermostat from TOYOTA?

I heard a guy had a heating problem and after spending $$ and time, he found out the water pump fan (that pump coolant) is lose from the main shaft.

When the temp indicator goes above average temp, check the temperature of the out-put coolant line (the metal piece where the top radiator hose is attached located on top of the engine, behind the timing belt cover) It should be about 85 CELSIUS (185 F).

Have you ever cleaned the air conditioner condenser located in front of the radiator? if not, apply some pressurized water 90 degrees to the condenser fins to remove dirt/bugs preventing the air flow.
 
Reposition the thermostat so that the jiggle valve is in the 6 o'clock position first, then button her back up and see how it performs. Use an OEM t-stat.

When you are running at highway speeds, and a car is heating up, it usually indicates a failing water pump bearing. Reposition and/or replace the t-stat first though since it is cheaper.
 
Thanks fir the input so far! For some reason I cannot do quotes so I will answer with the perma-link post number.

#2:
-I don't know how to get trapped air out or understand what belching / vacuuming means. I did turn heater to hot and let run for 10 min or so.
-Timing belt was don't at 83k & 150k. To my knowledge nothing else was done at that time.
-Fan has resistance. Will not free wheel or spin.
-I'll check upper hose when I get home

#3:
-No. T-Stat is from O'Reilly. I'll go to Toyota & get an OEM one today.
-That would make some sense, since the higher RPM's keep temp down.
-I did shoot that hose exit and it is within 185-197.
-I thoroughly cleaned condenser when I installed new radiator.

#4:
-Rad cap is new & replaced at same time as rad. Symptoms remained the same.

#5:
-I'm going to buy t-stat and pump. I only want to drain anti-freeze once, lol.
-Should I do timing belt while I am in there?

6#:
-I haven't owned it long enough to get to the city. Only driven here on highway and the back roads.
 
It is pretty obvious. You have a blown head gasket.


It only over heats when its under a load... Thus the reason the PO got rid of it...
 
#5:
-I'm going to buy t-stat and pump. I only want to drain anti-freeze once, lol.
-Should I do timing belt while I am in there?

The timing belt has to come off to replace the water pump, so you might as well put a new T-belt on at that time.

It is pretty obvious. You have a blown head gasket.


It only over heats when its under a load... Thus the reason the PO got rid of it...

Admittedly it doesn't sound good. But I have seen a few water pumps where the pump impeller was no longer firmly attached to the pump shaft, which can cause symptoms like the OP described.
 
I'd still start with the t-stat and gasket and go from there. FYI Toyotas, especially this one I have found, like OEM and not much else excluding some Denso parts and a few generic parts.

A simple compression test would show 95% of the time if the head gasket it bad. If you have a tester, it takes 1/2hr. Are you losing any coolant?

Report back. If you don't know the last time the TB/H20 pump was changed, you may want to due such soon.
 
I do have a compression tester. I've only done motorcycles. Is it the same? Put gauge in, crank for 10 sec then check reading? If so, What should it read?
 
It is pretty obvious. You have a blown head gasket.


It only over heats when its under a load... Thus the reason the PO got rid of it...

+1.....I hate to say it....but I agree with above. As soon as I read "overheats at highway speeds"....that's what popped into my mind. If I were you, I would start with the OEM Tstat, and the water pump. Rule out the cheaper things first by process of elimination. There's only so many pieces to a cooling system, so you're bound to find it pretty soon!
 
Well guys looks like my prayers were answered. It appears putting a new factory T-Stat with the dongle in the 6 O'Clock position kept it from going over 75% even after 30 min of driving. I did a COLD compression test (I know not the correct way, didn't have time to do a full warm up etc) and I got the following results.

1 - 115 psi
2 - 112 psi
3 - 116 psi
4 - 115 psi
5 - 112 psi
6 - 117 psi

Crazy thing is as I was taking stuff apart I noticed the heads looked shiny and so did the water pump. Like new aluminum shiny. I took pics cause I couldn't believe it. I'm telling you, they have to be brand new or recently sandblasted. Remember this car was a 1 owner, however I never met the owner. I'm wondering if they had a bad head gasket had those and the pump replaced then in chasing their tails with the overheating issue finally gave up and traded it in? Just wondering.....

Is it possible them having the dongle in the 12 o'clock position could have caused it or you think the stat they had put in, them the stat I put in we're bad or was the truck just wanting an OEM t-stat? Anyway here's to driving in the 105° heat tomorrow :-) Thanks for all the help. I'll let you guys know.
 
Some aftermarket thermostats dont have the dongle thingy which helps release trapped air.

If the 4runner was always serviced at the stealership you should have extensive records of maintenance? If you didn't get a nice thick stack of maintenance records when you bought it, do yourself a favor and register on Toyota Owners Official Web Site: Service Coupons, Owner's Manuals, Service Scheduling And More Once you put your vehicle vin# in, all stealership records should show up!


EXAMPLE: Mine has 19 service records on toyotas database


You can click the record and it goes into more detail! pretty damn cool i think. IDK if you already knew about that though.
 
Great news is, no over heating. Been driving all morning and gauge stays between 50-70% in all types of driving and it is over 90F already. 106F the high today, Yea! (not)

Bad news is the truck was hard to start when cold this morning and now the check engine light is on. Put my reader on, cleared the codes and code P0155 will not clear. Could I have left a wire off or something, something related to my cold compression test / cranking? Truck runs fine once warm. It did not have this code before.
 
or you think the stat they had put in, them the stat I put in we're bad or was the truck just wanting an OEM t-stat?

99% (IMO) your choice of an aftermarket t-stat was the problem.

SERIOUSLY .... Don't use aftermarket:
* LBJ(s)
* plugs
* plug wires
* t-stat
* water pump
* coil packs
* injectors
* O2 sensors

Pretty much anything electronic or related to the engine internals.

That list is based on all the threads I've read and some of my own experience.
 
Great news is, no over heating. Been driving all morning and gauge stays between 50-70% in all types of driving and it is over 90F already. 106F the high today, Yea! (not)

My 4Runner and many many others operate perfectly fine at 105-110 F. It should be fine IF everything is proper on your truck.
 
99% (IMO) your choice of an aftermarket t-stat was the problem.

SERIOUSLY .... Don't use aftermarket:
* LBJ(s)
* plugs
* plug wires
* t-stat
* water pump
* coil packs
* injectors
* O2 sensors

Pretty much anything electronic or related to the engine internals.

That list is based on all the threads I've read and some of my own experience.

Awesome info and lesson learned. Any idea why I picked up that CEL code? Also what are "LBJ's"?
 

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