PSA: Change your LCA Bushings NOW!!

Man was hoping you had found a LCA kit for half the price. Good stuff!

I was able to pick up all of the following for $60, used. I hope it is all the correct stuff :)

8.7104G Track Arm
8.5118G 27mm Front Swaybar
8.3107G Rear Control Arm
8.3108G Front Control Arm

Just gotta install it now.
 
I replaced upper and lower control arm bushings on my 99 tacoma with energy suspension bushings about a year and a half ago. Like absalom it was the last piece in the front end I replaced and it made the biggest difference because in my case they were totally shot. It is very difficult to tell they are shot too. No amount of prying in any direction got them to move,but when I replaced the steering rack and had it all apart it was obvious they were just flopping around. Upside is that this is the cheapest way and the easiest without replacing them with full factory control arms. Down side is they do squeak after a while and heating the control arms probably does not do them any good for strength. If your rich and ocd replace them with new factory ones. If your poor and like to do it yourself and your radio is loud these are great. My best suggestion for control arm bushings is if you have a good alignment specialist you know have them look at it Poor bushings will not allow you to keep good alignment. When i went in to get an alignment after I replaced the bushings they laughed at how visibly far off the wheels were and told me I should have marked them,which I had done
 
I was able to pick up all of the following for $60, used. I hope it is all the correct stuff :)

8.7104G Track Arm
8.5118G 27mm Front Swaybar
8.3107G Rear Control Arm
8.3108G Front Control Arm

Just gotta install it now.

Looks like those bushings are for a 90-95 4runner.
Make sure they fit your rig before you start burning or pressing things out.

I had to learn the hard way. [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION]
 
Per dollar, this is the absolute best mod I've made to my truck. The install is a PITA, but I'm here to help all those to attempt it next! Don't delay, throw poly bushings in your LCA's TODAY!

Thanks for the update. Doing the rack guide/bushings and stab bar bushings this weekend. Looks like LCA is next.
 
Looks like those bushings are for a 90-95 4runner.
Make sure they fit your rig before you start burning or pressing things out.

I had to learn the hard way. [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION]

Oh :( How did you find that information? I'll have to dig online I guess. Maybe I'll be selling all these.
 
Oh :( How did you find that information? I'll have to dig online I guess. Maybe I'll be selling all these.

I ended up ordering the 26mm and 27mm kits to get my front sway bar taken care off. The 26mm bushings fit the front sway bar but the end link bushings where way too big. THe 27mm bushings would not fit the bar but the end link bushings in that kit fit perfect. So after two kits I was able to complete my front bar. Not sure why this happened, PITA!!

Anyways. Woke up this morning. Walked outside and its cold. So I ordered up a set. Better get on it before that snow takes us!!!! I found the kit on ebay for $32 and change shipped.

Energy Suspension 8 3115G Control Arm Bushing Set Black Performance Polyurethane | eBay
 
I can elaborate; my truck contstantly wandered over imperfections in the pavement. I'd be nervous to hit cracks, bumps, etc for fear that I'd merge into the adjacent lane. Post bushing install, the truck feels incredibly taut. Exactly like that feeling you get when you drive a new car, and there is zero playing in the steering, and the car has an almost telepathic like link with the driver. I should mention, that literally every other component in my front end in less than 3 months old. This was just the last weak link, but boy, what a difference.

Glad to hear replacing the LCA bushings helped resolve the wandering issue after going over bumps. Thanks for sharing your experience, hope this resolves my wandering issue as well
 
Are you greasing both the inner and outer part of the bushings?
The Whiteline poly bushings actually come with the grease you'll need.

However, in an update to this thread I did an OEM rubber LCA/UCA bushing install this past weekend for a client. I was much happier with the driveability offered by new OEM bushings than I was with poly bushings.

The only issue is cost ...
 
Replacing all my bushing also helped improve my brake pedal feel. I had done the TBU and had a pretty good pedal feel already but this improved a little more. Also much better ride.
 
Here's videos showing two different techniques to replace the LCA Bushings on your rigs.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6FzEHygizoI" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
The other bonus to changing your LCA bushings to poly is that if they are designed correctly you now actually have an LCA that responds to terrain by rotating on the bushing rather than twisting/deforming a rubber bushing in a frictional manner, it's trying to resist moving but because it is soft it deforms and then will return to original shape, if you get what i'm saying.
Google Super Pro bushings and watch their video; it's very good.
 
I completely agree, at the end of the day, it's just a big ol' truck. But, I for one, will not tolerate IFS issues. I think the message of this thread should be replace your factory LCA bushings with either OEM rubber or poly ... when I first joined this forum, the consensus seemed to be that the LCA bushings didn't wear out. But lately, I'm noticing more and more cases of destroyed LCA bushings. To the point that I'd recommend it as part of a trucks initial service, right there with new LBJ's, new rack bushings, etc. Regarding the frequency of the greasing, just at install, unless your a masochist who derives pleasure from R&R'ing bushings. The car literally drove like a brand new 3rd gen forerunner in all types of on the road and off the road conditions

For those in Phx and on the fence, drive mine real quick and you'll notice the difference.
I had similar issues a few months ago after I replaced my springs and shocks with bilstein 4600. My truck pulled to the right when braking and moderate rough patches in the hwy would cause it to wander. I replaced my bushing both upper and lower with OEM. After all those bushing hadn't been changed ever and the vehicle had 316,000 miles on it.
 
I can elaborate; my truck contstantly wandered over imperfections in the pavement. I'd be nervous to hit cracks, bumps, etc for fear that I'd merge into the adjacent lane. Post bushing install, the truck feels incredibly taut. Exactly like that feeling you get when you drive a new car, and there is zero playing in the steering, and the car has an almost telepathic like link with the driver. I should mention, that literally every other component in my front end in less than 3 months old. This was just the last weak link, but boy, what a difference.

Good to see I am not alone. There is one part of my commute I need to specifically brace the wheel not to drift over.
 
I have an absolute pro-tip for anyone looking to do lower control arm bushings.

The alignment cam sleeves will be seized into the bushings on your control arms. I've done two sets now. 2/8 came out, the others I would've struggled with, maybe having to bottle-jack press them out or something, major pain, waste of time.

Spend the money and grab a new set of the alignment cams. You should not have to replace the nut and bolt if your truck isn't particularly crusty. It's a little expensive but will save you time and heartache.

Then grab a Lenox Lazer CT carbide tipped Sawzall blade, 4" long size. You're gonna need more than the harbor freight special saw to run this blade effectively. The blade is 25$, crazy I know, but 100% worth it.

You can easily cut through the bushing sleeve and alignment cam with this setup in a controlled manner and not damage the arms.

Also, do not get the energy suspension kit. Junk, they except you to piece together parts of the 18+ year old bushings to make it work, not worth it. Whiteline or OEM with this job.

Total cost of the job will be slightly higher this way, but makes it a painless process not relying on chance at all. Total cost around $250 with Whiteline bushings.

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I have an absolute pro-tip for anyone looking to do lower control arm bushings.

The alignment cam sleeves will be seized into the bushings on your control arms. I've done two sets now. 2/8 came out, the others I would've struggled with, maybe having to bottle-jack press them out or something, major pain, waste of time.

Spend the money and grab a new set of the alignment cams. You should not have to replace the nut and bolt if your truck isn't particularly crusty. It's a little expensive but will save you time and heartache.

Then grab a Lenox Lazer CT carbide tipped Sawzall blade, 4" long size. You're gonna need more than the harbor freight special saw to run this blade effectively. The blade is 25$, crazy I know, but 100% worth it.

You can easily cut through the bushing sleeve and alignment cam with this setup in a controlled manner and not damage the arms.

Also, do not get the energy suspension kit. Junk, they except you to piece together parts of the 18+ year old bushings to make it work, not worth it. Whiteline or OEM with this job.

Total cost of the job will be slightly higher this way, but makes it a painless process not relying on chance at all. Total cost around $250 with Whiteline bushings.

I cover the same thing in the Part 2 video I linked above. I used Diablo Demon Carbide tipped blades. I also agree that Energy Suspension bushings are a very bad choice for this job. I've installed both Whiteline and OEM bushings when doing this job. Some people have managed to destroy their LCAs by using too much force when using a bottle jack to remove the original bushings so we decided to give people an option of using a bearing splitter and hydraulic press to get the bushings out.
 
Good reminder and thread.

Any way to tell if these need replacing based on inspection, etc.? Or is it simply by how the car responds over rough road, braking and such?

My 170k T4R sure seems fine in this area, but I'm also aware it's a 19 year old car at this point.

Lastly, and for Timmy, thanks for those vids. Since one is 20 mins and the other is 50 mins, I know which technique I'll use when the time comes. :D


Eddie
 
Good reminder and thread.

Any way to tell if these need replacing based on inspection, etc.? Or is it simply by how the car responds over rough road, braking and such?

My 170k T4R sure seems fine in this area, but I'm also aware it's a 19 year old car at this point.

Lastly, and for Timmy, thanks for those vids. Since one is 20 mins and the other is 50 mins, I know which technique I'll use when the time comes. :D


Eddie

Don't let the video time fool you. The first video covers everything you need to know to get the arms off the rig. The second video just concentrates on cutting them out if the adjuster sleeves are frozen in the bushing and also covers how to use a press to do the bushing removals. You'll need both videos.

In auto mechanics, it really doesn't pay to have a short attention span. If you want to do a job right, do all the research you need to do beforehand and take your time during the job to make sure you don't make mistakes.
 
I couldn’t get my lower bolts loose and actually broke pipe I was using as a cheater bar on my breaker bar.

My 1000ftlb impact wouldn’t budge them so I ended up making an appointment to have my friend do it.


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I couldn’t get my lower bolts loose and actually broke pipe I was using as a cheater bar on my breaker bar.

My 1000ftlb impact wouldn’t budge them so I ended up making an appointment to have my friend do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is why various saw blades are the recommended removal tool!
 

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