Ruby Tuesday - rad4runner's Mods and Restoration
- Thread starter RAD4Runner
- Start date
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Started How Circuit Opening Relay Works on "Classic T4R" forum
Started How Circuit Opening Relay Works on "Classic T4R" forum here:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3225946-post1.html
Started How Circuit Opening Relay Works on "Classic T4R" forum here:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3225946-post1.html
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Thanks, Robb!
To celebrate my BDay, Ruby Tuesday took friends and me Polar Vortex Prepping on So Cal Mountain
POLAR VORTEX PREPPING FOR MY BIRTHDAY - LOL!
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Transfer Case Mount Screw Cross-Threaded
I found one of the 4 bolts securing the transfer case to the mount cross-threaded, so it was not completely tightened.
I got a $17 tap and die set at Harbor Freight and cleaned the threads both on the bolt and the transfer case block. Tightened OK by hand. I haven't checked torque, yet for fear of stripping it. I may just apply Loctite Threadloc on it.
Would it have been possible for the shop that rebuilt my transmission to remove and re-install the transmission without touching the transfer case mount?
I also noticed a gap between mount metal and the cross-member (pictured below). Do you folks think it's normal?
I found one of the 4 bolts securing the transfer case to the mount cross-threaded, so it was not completely tightened.
I got a $17 tap and die set at Harbor Freight and cleaned the threads both on the bolt and the transfer case block. Tightened OK by hand. I haven't checked torque, yet for fear of stripping it. I may just apply Loctite Threadloc on it.
Would it have been possible for the shop that rebuilt my transmission to remove and re-install the transmission without touching the transfer case mount?
I also noticed a gap between mount metal and the cross-member (pictured below). Do you folks think it's normal?
SomeDay
New member
Our 4Rs have the same gap, Ray.
Dropzone
New member
It is possible but I doubt they would have. I had to do the transmission on my 81 Trekker 4x's times, I would pull the dual cases and un-mount them from the crossmember for ease of moving them around.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Replaced Valve Cover Gasket, Half-Moons and Grommet-Washers
Replaced Valve Cover Gasket, Half-Moons and Grommet-Washers
In 2013, I paid the Truck Shop at Miramar Road, San Diego, CA to rebuild my engine. Soon after the rebuild, I noticed that there was an oil leak, including some seepage around the valve cover gasket. Mr James Ederer, proprietor suggested that I monitored it so I did. Less than a year later, while my truck was on the lift for an alternator replacement at Ace Electric in San Diego, I inspected the engine and found oil dripping from under the front main seal. I reported to The Truck Shop and shop replaced the main bearing seal / fixed the leak under warranty (4 years later, I would find one of the bolts securing the oil pump flange stripped).
OIL SEEPAGE UNDER FRONT MAIN SEAL, OBSERVED EARLY NOVEMBER 2014. WAS REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY.
Later, I still saw oil seepage around the valve cover gasket, but it was already past warranty and Mr Ederer dismissed the seepage as "the nature of the beast". I noticed, however, that the grommet-nuts on valve cover seemed cracked and brittle. I did not have time to address that until today.
When I took the grommet-washers, I confirmed that they were indeed cracked and brittle.
VALVE COVER GROMMET-NUTS INSTALLED BY THE TRUCK SHOP IN 2013 WERE CRACKED AND SEEMED BRITTLE. I CONFIRMED ON 8 APRIL 2019. THE ABOVE DO NOT LOOK LIKE 5-YEAR OLD GROMMET-WASHERS. No compression effect for a proper seal.
Upon removal of the valve cover, I found the valve cover seal also brittle. This does not look like 5-year old seal.
YouTube
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5QOI4fDbWBw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Here is the illustrated parts breakdown with part numbers:
This is the replacement kit I used from LC Engineering:
I did replacement procedure as Alexman Videos did it. I used Permatex Ultra-Grey sealant.
I NOTICED THAT THE TOP OF HALF-MOON WAS NOT WAS STICKING OUT ABOVE THE SEAL SURFACE BEFORE VALVE COVER WAS INSTALLED.
I think this is normal? Yes, I applied sealant at the corners of the half-moons.
I do not have torque specs for the nuts so I just tightened until the rubber mushroomed under BUT not wider than the metal cap of the grommet. I'm letting sealant cure for at least 24 hours before starting the truck.
Replaced Valve Cover Gasket, Half-Moons and Grommet-Washers
In 2013, I paid the Truck Shop at Miramar Road, San Diego, CA to rebuild my engine. Soon after the rebuild, I noticed that there was an oil leak, including some seepage around the valve cover gasket. Mr James Ederer, proprietor suggested that I monitored it so I did. Less than a year later, while my truck was on the lift for an alternator replacement at Ace Electric in San Diego, I inspected the engine and found oil dripping from under the front main seal. I reported to The Truck Shop and shop replaced the main bearing seal / fixed the leak under warranty (4 years later, I would find one of the bolts securing the oil pump flange stripped).
OIL SEEPAGE UNDER FRONT MAIN SEAL, OBSERVED EARLY NOVEMBER 2014. WAS REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY.
Later, I still saw oil seepage around the valve cover gasket, but it was already past warranty and Mr Ederer dismissed the seepage as "the nature of the beast". I noticed, however, that the grommet-nuts on valve cover seemed cracked and brittle. I did not have time to address that until today.
When I took the grommet-washers, I confirmed that they were indeed cracked and brittle.
VALVE COVER GROMMET-NUTS INSTALLED BY THE TRUCK SHOP IN 2013 WERE CRACKED AND SEEMED BRITTLE. I CONFIRMED ON 8 APRIL 2019. THE ABOVE DO NOT LOOK LIKE 5-YEAR OLD GROMMET-WASHERS. No compression effect for a proper seal.
Upon removal of the valve cover, I found the valve cover seal also brittle. This does not look like 5-year old seal.
YouTube
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5QOI4fDbWBw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Here is the illustrated parts breakdown with part numbers:
This is the replacement kit I used from LC Engineering:
I did replacement procedure as Alexman Videos did it. I used Permatex Ultra-Grey sealant.
I NOTICED THAT THE TOP OF HALF-MOON WAS NOT WAS STICKING OUT ABOVE THE SEAL SURFACE BEFORE VALVE COVER WAS INSTALLED.
I think this is normal? Yes, I applied sealant at the corners of the half-moons.
I do not have torque specs for the nuts so I just tightened until the rubber mushroomed under BUT not wider than the metal cap of the grommet. I'm letting sealant cure for at least 24 hours before starting the truck.
Last edited:
chromatika
New member
I've never had the top sit flush. It always looks like that. I've also never needed to seal that spot, and I have my valve cover on and off more than I should, probably.
Torque is really pretty low on those nuts iirc. I just sort of snug them up by feel. Don't get crazy on them or they will pull on your rocker arm assembly and make the rockers hit your valve cover.
Torque is really pretty low on those nuts iirc. I just sort of snug them up by feel. Don't get crazy on them or they will pull on your rocker arm assembly and make the rockers hit your valve cover.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Tool Roll-Pouch from Repurposed Folding Chair Fabric
Tool Roll-Pouch from Repurposed Folding Chair Fabric
I like tool rolls because they're compact, only take up almost same space as actual contents, and they fit inside body panel compartments
I'm re-purposing fabric that feels like Cordura from broken folding travel chair.
This one's for my 1/2-inch drive kit, including a breaker bar, that I normally do not carry in truck when near civilization.
I MADE POCKETS FOR IMPACT SOCKET SET AND RATCHET/EXTENSIONS IN LINE WITH EACH OTHER
THIS WAY I GET A SLIM ROLL, THE LENGTH OF THE BREAKER BAR.
Tool Roll-Pouch from Repurposed Folding Chair Fabric
I like tool rolls because they're compact, only take up almost same space as actual contents, and they fit inside body panel compartments
I'm re-purposing fabric that feels like Cordura from broken folding travel chair.
This one's for my 1/2-inch drive kit, including a breaker bar, that I normally do not carry in truck when near civilization.
I MADE POCKETS FOR IMPACT SOCKET SET AND RATCHET/EXTENSIONS IN LINE WITH EACH OTHER
THIS WAY I GET A SLIM ROLL, THE LENGTH OF THE BREAKER BAR.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Thanks!
Too scared and too lazy to learn to use the machine. All hand-stitched like My Roll-Bar pouch
Well, i just spent a few hours looking through all your posts.
Let me say thanks for sharing all this technical information AND adventures.
i began searching for some answers to my recent experience with my 1988 22RE....
stock, about 160 miles, suddenly the battery isn't charging, it's a fairly new Optima...less than a year old.
this week, went to the Joshua Tree post office to check my mail...truck was running rough, and wouldn't start after checking my mail. got a jump and came home....got slower and slower, and as i attempted to put on my hazard lights....the draw made it worse..so i knew it was electrical...actually died 1/4 down from the house on dirt road i live on. was able to walk back, grab Ford F350 and fat chain and drag it back.
Sure enough, alternator not charging/output zero.
charged the battery back up and started no issues.
so, i did all the electrical checks and made the decision that the alternator was the culprit.
turns out my brothers got 22RE as well, he's upgraded to a larger/newer motor...so i have every spare part one would ever need:lock1:. I grabbed his alternator (it's supposed to be upgraded/rewound/high capacity). it does have a smaller pulley on it, so i assume it spins faster....thought about trying to put my older/larger pulley on it..but don't have the tools it seems for that.
anyway, after draining coolant and making a mess, i got it changed out...refilled and started...SAME ISSUE...no output from alternator.
i studied/used your posts THANKS AGAIN FOR SHARING THE DETAILS, SCHEMATICS, AND TIME you have dedicated to your truck!
All my fuses check good, and i checked them with volt-meter AND took them out and measured continuity. all the fusible links are good, my exciter voltage is good at the plug to the alternator, even checked at the intermediate plug by the power steering reservoir. Ferrite Box Splice OK...i've done no work to the thing, just drive it, it's stock, no mods, actually has a crate motor i put in 10 years ago, said motor got about 40kmiles on it. AC works, the thing just has been my daily 'beater' take it to the mountains to the TH for hiking, take it to Walmart for groceries, take it to the dump with my garbage. take it to home depot for building supplies.
the other day, my charge light was on with old alternator, but now the charge light is out with the 'new' alternator, but there is no output for both of them.
So, my plan is to take the old alternator to get checked...if it's bad, then both alternators must be bad. If it's good, then both alternators must be good and my problem lies elsewhere......????
Belts are all ok, there is no corrosion, it's been a desert truck in Yucca Valley since 1988. some sand and grit maybe.
It's a problem that's only just happened out of the blue!
I'm not even sure the alternator my brother has is good at this point, but it's new/rewound and he just took it off when he removed his 22RE engine on his 1991.....to put in a 3xxx engine/turbo charged..
my plan is to fix this issue, then start using some of his upgraded parts and slowly build mine up so i can get up/down that hill to/from Palm Springs faster than 50mph in 3rd gear!
Let me say thanks for sharing all this technical information AND adventures.
i began searching for some answers to my recent experience with my 1988 22RE....
stock, about 160 miles, suddenly the battery isn't charging, it's a fairly new Optima...less than a year old.
this week, went to the Joshua Tree post office to check my mail...truck was running rough, and wouldn't start after checking my mail. got a jump and came home....got slower and slower, and as i attempted to put on my hazard lights....the draw made it worse..so i knew it was electrical...actually died 1/4 down from the house on dirt road i live on. was able to walk back, grab Ford F350 and fat chain and drag it back.
Sure enough, alternator not charging/output zero.
charged the battery back up and started no issues.
so, i did all the electrical checks and made the decision that the alternator was the culprit.
turns out my brothers got 22RE as well, he's upgraded to a larger/newer motor...so i have every spare part one would ever need:lock1:. I grabbed his alternator (it's supposed to be upgraded/rewound/high capacity). it does have a smaller pulley on it, so i assume it spins faster....thought about trying to put my older/larger pulley on it..but don't have the tools it seems for that.
anyway, after draining coolant and making a mess, i got it changed out...refilled and started...SAME ISSUE...no output from alternator.
i studied/used your posts THANKS AGAIN FOR SHARING THE DETAILS, SCHEMATICS, AND TIME you have dedicated to your truck!
All my fuses check good, and i checked them with volt-meter AND took them out and measured continuity. all the fusible links are good, my exciter voltage is good at the plug to the alternator, even checked at the intermediate plug by the power steering reservoir. Ferrite Box Splice OK...i've done no work to the thing, just drive it, it's stock, no mods, actually has a crate motor i put in 10 years ago, said motor got about 40kmiles on it. AC works, the thing just has been my daily 'beater' take it to the mountains to the TH for hiking, take it to Walmart for groceries, take it to the dump with my garbage. take it to home depot for building supplies.
the other day, my charge light was on with old alternator, but now the charge light is out with the 'new' alternator, but there is no output for both of them.
So, my plan is to take the old alternator to get checked...if it's bad, then both alternators must be bad. If it's good, then both alternators must be good and my problem lies elsewhere......????
Belts are all ok, there is no corrosion, it's been a desert truck in Yucca Valley since 1988. some sand and grit maybe.
It's a problem that's only just happened out of the blue!
I'm not even sure the alternator my brother has is good at this point, but it's new/rewound and he just took it off when he removed his 22RE engine on his 1991.....to put in a 3xxx engine/turbo charged..
my plan is to fix this issue, then start using some of his upgraded parts and slowly build mine up so i can get up/down that hill to/from Palm Springs faster than 50mph in 3rd gear!
Attachments
Last edited:
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Roof-Top Tent incident Report
I reported a minor but pretty interesting RTT incident here:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3290295-post20.html
I reported a minor but pretty interesting RTT incident here:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3290295-post20.html
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Drooling
Approx here
APPROX HERE
APPROX HERE
APPROX HERE
Almost like Adventure Copan's With room for a beer or coffee mug on fender
APPROX HERE
APPROX HERE
Approx here
APPROX HERE
APPROX HERE
APPROX HERE
Almost like Adventure Copan's With room for a beer or coffee mug on fender
APPROX HERE
APPROX HERE
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RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Last edited:
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Replaced My Intake Hose
Intake hose was cracked. Remedied with pipe cover tape worked for almost 3 years (LOL!), but it finally leaked again when disturbed for alternator replacement and cooling hose replacement.
I bought DORMAN 696-707 Air Intake Hose like ARlindsay did,
Quick delivery through Amazon Prime Got some sample packets at nice Amazon Locker
Old hose was gummed up so I cleaned the port a little bit.
BEFORE (I did this for my Route66 Trip. Ran well for almost 3 years - LOL!)
AFTER. I put old hose to protect ra-dia-tor* hose from abrasion from intake hose rubbing against it:
*Had to break up the word so the robots would not insert an advertising link into it - LOL!
Intake hose was cracked. Remedied with pipe cover tape worked for almost 3 years (LOL!), but it finally leaked again when disturbed for alternator replacement and cooling hose replacement.
I bought DORMAN 696-707 Air Intake Hose like ARlindsay did,
Quick delivery through Amazon Prime Got some sample packets at nice Amazon Locker
Old hose was gummed up so I cleaned the port a little bit.
BEFORE (I did this for my Route66 Trip. Ran well for almost 3 years - LOL!)
AFTER. I put old hose to protect ra-dia-tor* hose from abrasion from intake hose rubbing against it:
*Had to break up the word so the robots would not insert an advertising link into it - LOL!
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Cross Road, Section of Route 66
In Christmas 2016 I drove from L.A. to mid-point of Route 66 in Adrian, TX, then south to see family. Cross Road is a nice little unmaintained section of the "real" Route 66 (almost parallel to I-40).
La Bajada Switchbacks would have been cool, but I hear it's a little too rough and I was traveling alone.
Happy New Year!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AnB1QFXNoU4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
In Christmas 2016 I drove from L.A. to mid-point of Route 66 in Adrian, TX, then south to see family. Cross Road is a nice little unmaintained section of the "real" Route 66 (almost parallel to I-40).
La Bajada Switchbacks would have been cool, but I hear it's a little too rough and I was traveling alone.
Happy New Year!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AnB1QFXNoU4" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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