Ruby Tuesday - rad4runner's Mods and Restoration
- Thread starter RAD4Runner
- Start date
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
MY PROCESS FOR TOTALLLY ELIMINATING RUST-PROMOTING WINDSHIELD TRIM - NO CHROME NOR RUBBER TRIM THAT TRAPS MOISTURE AND DIRT.
FALL OF 2016:
Adhesive of previous replacement was not sticking to the spray paint- repaired surfaces. This time I did a thorough prep.
As you can see, the rusted spots are were clips for the stupid chrome trim trapped dirt and moisture. That is why I detest the chrome trim with a passion!
This time I used POR-15 Starter Kit:
I removed all finish and most rust on the pinch weld and its sidewalls with a steel-brush.
Steel brush does not completely remove loose (brown) rust (merely glazes over it and makes it seems like you had hit bare metal) so I used tiny grinding wheels (part of Dremel-style kit) that I attached to my drill. This removed all the loose, brown rust, and I was left with tiny spots of grey metal where there was pitting. I think POR-15 would take care of sealing that.
I used POR degreaser and then Metal Prep, then applied 3 coats of POR-15 (waited for each coat to get tacky before applying next coat). I was too busy to take picture of the POR'ed pinch weld and wall, but here's one already with bead of Sika brand windshield adhesive on it...
A picture of bead being applied to bottom pinch weld. Bead is pretty thick so I hope that helps with sealing.
Glass now installed:
Adhesive squeeze-out completely fills underneath edge of the glass.
NEXT STEPS:
Prime the POR-treated area inside the gap, feather the POR and paint on the lip, then repaint.
FALL of 2020:
Adventures got in the way, so ALMOST 4 YEARS LATER (LOL!) I FINALLY HAD THE CHANCE TO FILL GAP AROUND THE WINDSHIELD WITH BLACK SILICONE.
Lessons Learned:
1) Paint the POR-15 as soon as cured to protect it from the elements, AND
2) When applying silicon sealant, squeegee it right away - before it forms a "skin"
See below.
POR-15 HAD DETERIORATED AND SOME EXPOSED METAL HAD RUSTED SO I HAD TO PREP AND PAINT THE METAL AGAIN. I MASKED THE GLASS AND THE URETHANE ADHESIVE SO SILICONE WOULD BOND DIRECTLY TO IT.
POR-15 HAD DETERIORATED AND SOME EXPOSED METAL HAD RUSTED SO I HAD TO PREP AND PAINT THE METAL AGAIN. I MASKED THE GLASS AND THE URETHANE ADHESIVE SO SILICONE WOULD BOND DIRECTLY TO IT.
POR-15 HAD DETERIORATED AND SOME EXPOSED METAL HAD RUSTED SO I HAD TO PREP AND PAINT THE METAL AGAIN. I MASKED THE GLASS AND THE URETHANE ADHESIVE SO SILICONE WOULD BOND DIRECTLY TO IT.
Since there is no longer a trim to hold down / finish the rear edge of cowl cover I did the following:
FALL OF 2016:
Adhesive of previous replacement was not sticking to the spray paint- repaired surfaces. This time I did a thorough prep.
As you can see, the rusted spots are were clips for the stupid chrome trim trapped dirt and moisture. That is why I detest the chrome trim with a passion!
This time I used POR-15 Starter Kit:
I removed all finish and most rust on the pinch weld and its sidewalls with a steel-brush.
Steel brush does not completely remove loose (brown) rust (merely glazes over it and makes it seems like you had hit bare metal) so I used tiny grinding wheels (part of Dremel-style kit) that I attached to my drill. This removed all the loose, brown rust, and I was left with tiny spots of grey metal where there was pitting. I think POR-15 would take care of sealing that.
I used POR degreaser and then Metal Prep, then applied 3 coats of POR-15 (waited for each coat to get tacky before applying next coat). I was too busy to take picture of the POR'ed pinch weld and wall, but here's one already with bead of Sika brand windshield adhesive on it...
A picture of bead being applied to bottom pinch weld. Bead is pretty thick so I hope that helps with sealing.
Glass now installed:
Adhesive squeeze-out completely fills underneath edge of the glass.
NEXT STEPS:
Prime the POR-treated area inside the gap, feather the POR and paint on the lip, then repaint.
FALL of 2020:
Adventures got in the way, so ALMOST 4 YEARS LATER (LOL!) I FINALLY HAD THE CHANCE TO FILL GAP AROUND THE WINDSHIELD WITH BLACK SILICONE.
Lessons Learned:
1) Paint the POR-15 as soon as cured to protect it from the elements, AND
2) When applying silicon sealant, squeegee it right away - before it forms a "skin"
See below.
POR-15 HAD DETERIORATED AND SOME EXPOSED METAL HAD RUSTED SO I HAD TO PREP AND PAINT THE METAL AGAIN. I MASKED THE GLASS AND THE URETHANE ADHESIVE SO SILICONE WOULD BOND DIRECTLY TO IT.
POR-15 HAD DETERIORATED AND SOME EXPOSED METAL HAD RUSTED SO I HAD TO PREP AND PAINT THE METAL AGAIN. I MASKED THE GLASS AND THE URETHANE ADHESIVE SO SILICONE WOULD BOND DIRECTLY TO IT.
POR-15 HAD DETERIORATED AND SOME EXPOSED METAL HAD RUSTED SO I HAD TO PREP AND PAINT THE METAL AGAIN. I MASKED THE GLASS AND THE URETHANE ADHESIVE SO SILICONE WOULD BOND DIRECTLY TO IT.
Since there is no longer a trim to hold down / finish the rear edge of cowl cover I did the following:
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
"Fall"-proofed My Cowl Grill
"FALL" Proofing the Cowl.
I hate all those leaves falling into the cowl. Some have blocked the cowl grill but I want my fresh air vent so I just installed gutter guard / mesh, that I just happen to have under it.
There are some high spots when stock cowl screens are installed so I left those out. The coarse mesh of this gutter mesh would still allow pine needles, etc, so as soon as I get the chance, I'll replace with Amerimax brand gutter screen with finer mesh. I think that will sandwich between cowl and stock cowl screen better.
AMERIMAX GUTTER FILTER / SCREEN (Home Depot / Lowe's)
"FALL" Proofing the Cowl.
I hate all those leaves falling into the cowl. Some have blocked the cowl grill but I want my fresh air vent so I just installed gutter guard / mesh, that I just happen to have under it.
There are some high spots when stock cowl screens are installed so I left those out. The coarse mesh of this gutter mesh would still allow pine needles, etc, so as soon as I get the chance, I'll replace with Amerimax brand gutter screen with finer mesh. I think that will sandwich between cowl and stock cowl screen better.
AMERIMAX GUTTER FILTER / SCREEN (Home Depot / Lowe's)
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Replaced Alternator
The Truck Shop Miramar did a lousy job when I paid it to rebuild my engine in 2013. There was leak around the main seal OR where oil pump plate attaches to block after the rebuild. It supposedly fixed the leak but it came back. I found a bolt on oil filter stripped / too short so I replaced it with longer one. There is still some oil seepage. To keep oil from splashing on my newly-installed Denso Rebuilt in the U.S.A. alternator from NAPA, I made a splash shield. I made it by trimming steel electronics chassis to fit.
It clears all belts by around 3/4 inches.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1WfMRiDR7Y&feature=youtu.be
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y1WfMRiDR7Y" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Now researching what it would take to replace that oil pump seal.
The Truck Shop Miramar did a lousy job when I paid it to rebuild my engine in 2013. There was leak around the main seal OR where oil pump plate attaches to block after the rebuild. It supposedly fixed the leak but it came back. I found a bolt on oil filter stripped / too short so I replaced it with longer one. There is still some oil seepage. To keep oil from splashing on my newly-installed Denso Rebuilt in the U.S.A. alternator from NAPA, I made a splash shield. I made it by trimming steel electronics chassis to fit.
It clears all belts by around 3/4 inches.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1WfMRiDR7Y&feature=youtu.be
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y1WfMRiDR7Y" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Now researching what it would take to replace that oil pump seal.
cabbymiami
New member
Subd
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Replaced no. 194 Halogen with LED Bulb on my side-facing marker/turn signal light.
Replaced no. 194 Halogen with LED Bulb on my side-facing marker/turn signal light.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GVmqBg_FoaU" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I used this from Amazon:
ALOPEE 194 LED Bulb, Bright Red 168 LED Bulb, 921 2825 LED for T10 W5W 175 501 Non Polarity Replacement for License Plate Light Tail Map Dome Door Trunk Light 18SMD 3014 Chips, DC 12-24V,
Earlier I got Amazenar brand. They fit my amber fron corner marker/turn signals, but are too tall to fit in rear marker/turns.
Replaced no. 194 Halogen with LED Bulb on my side-facing marker/turn signal light.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GVmqBg_FoaU" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I used this from Amazon:
ALOPEE 194 LED Bulb, Bright Red 168 LED Bulb, 921 2825 LED for T10 W5W 175 501 Non Polarity Replacement for License Plate Light Tail Map Dome Door Trunk Light 18SMD 3014 Chips, DC 12-24V,
Earlier I got Amazenar brand. They fit my amber fron corner marker/turn signals, but are too tall to fit in rear marker/turns.
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RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Peace on Earth, and Happy 2022R-E!
Peace on Earth, and Happy 2022R-E!
Wishing everyone more adventures away from the office and the mall.
Peace on Earth, and Happy 2022R-E!
Wishing everyone more adventures away from the office and the mall.
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Storage: Cubby On Steroids
Cubby On Steroids
Restoration is fine, but I prefer continuous improvement to suit my needs. Earlier, I wanted to make a cubby similar to the SR5. Instead, I decided to use pretty much the entire the body cavity as a "Cubby on Steroids".
"SOFT CUBBY" / POUCH IN PASSENGER-SIDE BODY CAVITY FOR FREQUENTLY-USED ITEMS. There is more room for less-frequently used items like my spare fuel-pump, belts, hoses, etc., accessed through small opening below it.
I'M LEAVING DRIVER-SIDE CAVITY OPEN FOR BIGGER ITEMS LIKE PAPER TOWELS, TP, DRY GOODS, CANNED FOOD, ETC. There is also little bit of room behind the rear window control relay
TEMPLATE OUT OF CARDBOARD. MOUNTING SCREW HOLES ARE USED AS REFERENCE. Previously, I replaced much-hated hidden fasteners with nylon expansion nuts and panel trim screws; No more brittle plastic fasteners nor guess-work needed to remove panel.
REACHING BEHIND TO MARK OPENINGS ON TEMPLATE
MARKING THE VINYL WRAP AND THE BASE BOARD
SLITTING VINYL WRAP TO CONFORM TO CURVES OF OPENINGS. Need to slit only so far so as not to show on final work.
I HELD BACK THE VINYL WRAP WITH TAPE AND MADE CUT-OUT USING BARE HACKSAW BLADE
DRY-FIT. Opening on left is for my USB, Andersen Powepole (for Fridge) and Cigarette Lighter Socket outlets and Volt-meter- all from my "house" battery (Dual-battery system)
WRAPPING THE LIPS OF OPENINGS. I USED LOCTITE SPRAY ADHESIVE
Note the Ensoite that I added to inner surface of body panels for additional sound-insulation. To compensate for now bigger openings, the outer body panels have 3/8 to 1/2 inch foam behind them. Nothing bought - I re-purposed foam used for shipping delicate electronics equipment.
INSTALLED WITH SEAT BACK UP
INSTALED WITH SEATBACK DOWN.
USB, Anderson Powerpole and cigarette lighter socket poweredby "house battery" in opening near seatbelt. Fuse block for my "house" battery is behind opening between the cubby and the roll bar. Still haven't had a chance to make a cover. Anyway everything there is recessed and out of the way. Someday I might replace the "soft cubby" with black vinyl for better looks.
Cubby On Steroids
Restoration is fine, but I prefer continuous improvement to suit my needs. Earlier, I wanted to make a cubby similar to the SR5. Instead, I decided to use pretty much the entire the body cavity as a "Cubby on Steroids".
"SOFT CUBBY" / POUCH IN PASSENGER-SIDE BODY CAVITY FOR FREQUENTLY-USED ITEMS. There is more room for less-frequently used items like my spare fuel-pump, belts, hoses, etc., accessed through small opening below it.
I'M LEAVING DRIVER-SIDE CAVITY OPEN FOR BIGGER ITEMS LIKE PAPER TOWELS, TP, DRY GOODS, CANNED FOOD, ETC. There is also little bit of room behind the rear window control relay
TEMPLATE OUT OF CARDBOARD. MOUNTING SCREW HOLES ARE USED AS REFERENCE. Previously, I replaced much-hated hidden fasteners with nylon expansion nuts and panel trim screws; No more brittle plastic fasteners nor guess-work needed to remove panel.
REACHING BEHIND TO MARK OPENINGS ON TEMPLATE
MARKING THE VINYL WRAP AND THE BASE BOARD
SLITTING VINYL WRAP TO CONFORM TO CURVES OF OPENINGS. Need to slit only so far so as not to show on final work.
I HELD BACK THE VINYL WRAP WITH TAPE AND MADE CUT-OUT USING BARE HACKSAW BLADE
DRY-FIT. Opening on left is for my USB, Andersen Powepole (for Fridge) and Cigarette Lighter Socket outlets and Volt-meter- all from my "house" battery (Dual-battery system)
WRAPPING THE LIPS OF OPENINGS. I USED LOCTITE SPRAY ADHESIVE
Note the Ensoite that I added to inner surface of body panels for additional sound-insulation. To compensate for now bigger openings, the outer body panels have 3/8 to 1/2 inch foam behind them. Nothing bought - I re-purposed foam used for shipping delicate electronics equipment.
INSTALLED WITH SEAT BACK UP
INSTALED WITH SEATBACK DOWN.
USB, Anderson Powerpole and cigarette lighter socket poweredby "house battery" in opening near seatbelt. Fuse block for my "house" battery is behind opening between the cubby and the roll bar. Still haven't had a chance to make a cover. Anyway everything there is recessed and out of the way. Someday I might replace the "soft cubby" with black vinyl for better looks.
Last edited:
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Converted to Anderson Powerpole Connector System
I don't like the cigarette lighter plug because the positive pin on the plug is spring-loaded and pushes itself out of the socket.
I also want to quickly plug compressor or inverter to Anderson Powerpole outlets capable of up to 45 Amps, instead of using battery clips, so as we speak, I am converting my compressor and inverter connections to Anderson Powerpole. Very versatile, one common housing accommodates 15, 30 or 45-amp pins/contacts, more compact than cigarette lighter plug and does not have spring-loaded positive contacts mentioned above. My fridge already has it.
I converted cigarette lighter plug and battery clamp ends of original cables as adapters for vehicles wiithout the Andersen Powerpole system.
Note that supply and load side housings.combined of Anderson Powerpole are more compact than just the cigatette lighter plug.
I don't like the cigarette lighter plug because the positive pin on the plug is spring-loaded and pushes itself out of the socket.
I also want to quickly plug compressor or inverter to Anderson Powerpole outlets capable of up to 45 Amps, instead of using battery clips, so as we speak, I am converting my compressor and inverter connections to Anderson Powerpole. Very versatile, one common housing accommodates 15, 30 or 45-amp pins/contacts, more compact than cigarette lighter plug and does not have spring-loaded positive contacts mentioned above. My fridge already has it.
I converted cigarette lighter plug and battery clamp ends of original cables as adapters for vehicles wiithout the Andersen Powerpole system.
Note that supply and load side housings.combined of Anderson Powerpole are more compact than just the cigatette lighter plug.
Last edited:
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