The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
- Thread starter da_crew10
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Devbot
New member
Thank you!
Alarm system is out, and all appears to be fixed.... we'll see how she runs in the next few weeks.
It's funny, when I first got my 4Runner I noticed the immense mess of loose wires under the dash and was super intimidated by it... then I realized all of them belonged to some $25 alarm the PO installed - or tried to, rather - he must've spliced in 20 different wires yet all but a single ground cable were snipped and tucked away because he couldn't get it to work right
The upon removing it I found this remaining "ground" connection was actually live, so it was never wired up properly to begin with :laugh:
ound: God knows what problems that caused when he started it up the first time
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Does anyone know where I can find all the inner diameters of the evap system hoses in the rear of my 01’ sr5? I’m going to replace my charcoal canister (diagnosed the circuit within the canister to have failed), fuel filler neck, and all the hoses that connect it all. I’m thinking of going with nylon tubing but before ordering I’m trying to determine the diameter without buying a micrometer, pulling a line, measuring, ordering, and waiting for shipping if at all possible. Tia!
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New suspension
What's the difference in performance between upgrading my '00 from stock to..99 tall coils and 4runner 5100s...in front Vs...Tundra Coils & Tundra Bilsteins?... I'm trying to get a more controlled, smoother, less "feel every crack/bump" type of ride. Thanks.
What's the difference in performance between upgrading my '00 from stock to..99 tall coils and 4runner 5100s...in front Vs...Tundra Coils & Tundra Bilsteins?... I'm trying to get a more controlled, smoother, less "feel every crack/bump" type of ride. Thanks.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
I'm noticing a squeak from the rear brakes when I back out of the driveway first thing in the mornings. Doesn't happen when driving forward, or on subsequent times when I back out.
I plan to pop the drums off, looks inside, and clean/lube everything. Anything I should be focusing on specifically, given that it only happens in reverse and only after resting for awhile?
I plan to pop the drums off, looks inside, and clean/lube everything. Anything I should be focusing on specifically, given that it only happens in reverse and only after resting for awhile?
spartacus
Senior Member
Greasing the spot where the shoe meets the backing plate should help.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
4runner 5100s and 880 springs or 881 if you want to lift it some. 99 tall coils are meant for 4WD and will lift and stiffen a lighter, 2WD weight, truck. Tundra stuff is too stiff for stock weight sans aftermarket bumper, winch, etc.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Well, what have you done?
Under what kind of driving conditions does the CEL come on, and then go away by itself?
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spartacus
Senior Member
Easiest bad, coils, plugs and wires. Hardest belt jumped a tooth or 2.
Other culprits, Maf, o2 sensor, vacuum leak, leaky injector etc. If all these are good then in rare cases ecu.
CEL is throwing a code for P0451 - Most of what I read online (and in the service manual) points to the Vapor Pressure Sensor (89461-35010) as the culprit. I was in AutoZone two days ago and their diagnostic suggested new O2 sensors first and foremost, but the more detailed description said that it may be an issue with the fuel pump assembly.
I have already replaced the gas cap and driven well over 100 miles to see if that would clear the code. Checked the power source voltage to the VPS and that was within the acceptable range, reading for the output of VPS was 0 but I am not entirely confident that I was touching the PTNK terminal on the sensor. Has anyone else had an issue with P0451? Is installing a new VPS pretty straightforward? It looks like there is just a yellow clip around the base holding it in.
I have already replaced the gas cap and driven well over 100 miles to see if that would clear the code. Checked the power source voltage to the VPS and that was within the acceptable range, reading for the output of VPS was 0 but I am not entirely confident that I was touching the PTNK terminal on the sensor. Has anyone else had an issue with P0451? Is installing a new VPS pretty straightforward? It looks like there is just a yellow clip around the base holding it in.
Autozone suggested repairs are the only thing more worthless at fixing a vehicle than the autozone employees themselves. P0451 code is either a problem with the vapor pressure sensor or the wiring for the vapor pressure sensor. In extremely rare cases it could be the ecm as well but very rare cases.
974rnr5spd
New member
Hello T4r, long time reader, first time poster, 6-month car repairing desparado here. Is there supposed to be vacuum at the FPR? 97 with a 3rzfe manual trans. I'm getting P0172 code (running rich), at engine idle, i'm getting 42psi fuel pressure at the banjo nut with everything connected (how it's been running for the last 6 years). All manuals online and in paper form (Haynes) says should be 33-37psi with the vacuum sensing hose attached. I'm getting zero vacuum in that port, thus why i'm seeing 42psi fuel pressure. Ran a smoke test through entire intake and no leaks observed. Anyone with a 3rz and convenient schrader valve setup confirm fuel pressure at idle? My cat is already toast from all the testing so I'm thinking it's actually running rich. I've searched high and low and none of the threads that talks about this are very helpful, I'm getting conflicting information in the forums vs the FSM, people saying there's not supposed to be vacuum at the intake, so how can the FPR do it's job and control the fuel pressure down to 33-37psi? Thanks in advance.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Can someone weigh in on what starter I have? It should have come with the 1.8 kW, given that the truck is a Limited with automatic, but looking at the starter, I think it's a 1.4 kW, and a cheap aftermarket at that (I can definitely picture the PO doing that, he was cheap!).
Here's a photo of the two types (1.4 kW on top):
And here is what mine looks like:
Seems to have the short snout of the 1.4 kW, and no Denso stickers to show it's OEM.
If it's an aftermarket 1.4 kW, I'll just grab a used 1.8 kW from a junkyard.
Here's a photo of the two types (1.4 kW on top):
And here is what mine looks like:
Seems to have the short snout of the 1.4 kW, and no Denso stickers to show it's OEM.
If it's an aftermarket 1.4 kW, I'll just grab a used 1.8 kW from a junkyard.
Looks like a 1.4kw starter to me. You should have a 1.8kw starter. Or at least used to have.Can someone weigh in on what starter I have? It should have come with the 1.8 kW, given that the truck is a Limited with automatic, but looking at the starter, I think it's a 1.4 kW, and a cheap aftermarket at that (I can definitely picture the PO doing that, he was cheap!).
Here's a photo of the two types (1.4 kW on top):
And here is what mine looks like:
Seems to have the short snout of the 1.4 kW, and no Denso stickers to show it's OEM.
If it's an aftermarket 1.4 kW, I'll just grab a used 1.8 kW from a junkyard.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Thanks for confirming. I ordered a 1.8 kW starter from LKQ, managed to find a donor truck with 22,000 miles on it. With that kind of mileage, I may not even need to rebuild it, like I had planned to do with mine.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
How much did that starter cost you delivered from LKQ? Any guarantee it's original, factory oem?
I didn't know you could order from them...
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
You sure can, it's one of the best sites for used parts -https://www.lkqonline.com/. Very professionally organized, mostly low mileage cars (lots of 3rd Gens with under 150K, many under 100K), you can see the actual donor vehicle, good prices, and you don't need to get dirty!
The parts come with I think a 6 mo warranty free (you can pay for longer). I don't know if they explicitly guarantee OEM parts, but I don't believe they'd sell aftermarket stuff without specifying it as such. And best of all, they have a return policy, and if you get something that is not right, they will take care of it.
The starter, with tax (and free delivery) set me back $65. That's just a bit higher than the lowest on Ebay at the moment at $41 + tax - with 230K on it!
And no, that 22K mile Taco's motor or trans are no longer available, I checked
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