TonyB66
New member
Very helpful. I'll make it point to watch those videos you referenced, plus others and tackle this later, likely this winter. I can already see myself sitting in front of the fireplace for this project ... Thanks again.
TonyB66's Ownership -> Build Thread (2000 Limited)
- Thread starter TonyB66
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Very helpful. I'll make it point to watch those videos you referenced, plus others and tackle this later, likely this winter. I can already see myself sitting in front of the fireplace for this project ... Thanks again.
TonyB66
New member
For reasons stated earlier, not much work being done these days. I'm gradually working on a more affordable and ideally better door check solution for us. For those interested, that adventure can be found here:
Door Won't Stay Open
The last couple or so weeks, that's pretty much it. Added a bit more to the attic rack...
Moments ago, finally did this, fondly from my FJ-40 days....
For those with a keen eye, that's 21 bottle caps! Those neodymium magnets are impressive...
Used stainless steel hardware (bolts, washers and nylock nuts) on the bottle opener and 100% black silicone on the magnet.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XCgXmT3UXuQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Door Won't Stay Open
The last couple or so weeks, that's pretty much it. Added a bit more to the attic rack...
Moments ago, finally did this, fondly from my FJ-40 days....
For those with a keen eye, that's 21 bottle caps! Those neodymium magnets are impressive...
Used stainless steel hardware (bolts, washers and nylock nuts) on the bottle opener and 100% black silicone on the magnet.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XCgXmT3UXuQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Hey Tony, looks great! You do good work.
I've not been following much, but whose tire rear carrier is that?
I might make a hitch mounted one and leave my stock rear bumper as is for now.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I've not been following much, but whose tire rear carrier is that?
I might make a hitch mounted one and leave my stock rear bumper as is for now.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
TonyB66
New member
Thanks Mike. Some of the projects have been fun...
The tire carrier is from Savage, as are both bumpers. A few months back he discontinued making the 3rd gen rear bumper, and I believe modular stuff for it, like the swing-out. If interested, you might want to check with Roy.
Along those lines, my sliders are also discontinued. Stubbs is no longer making them...
theesotericone
New member
TonyB66
New member
I heard about three weeks back. I haven't checked his website as I've been busy, but he told me over email. Ah, just found that email, closed the shop on May 22nd. He didn't get into the reasons, but I'll catch-up with him later. Good guy. Semi-retired, so happy for him...
Hope you are doing well Matt.
theesotericone
New member
Crap. There goes the best sliders on the market. He's such a great guy to chat with but I haven't talked to him in over a year. I just checked and the sites still up. Maybe he'll let someone carry the torch. If not I'm sure I can get him to make one last set for my wife's 4th Gen. lol
I'm doing great man. I hope whatever family issues you have going on are minor and under control. I've also been snooping your door stop thread. Nice work on that. There on my list of things to do.
Once your schedule clears up let me know. It'd be great to get you out wheeling. Easy or hard, your call. Have a good one man.
TonyB66
New member
You were part of the reason I went with his sliders. Yes, a great guy to chat with for sure. As you might know, he is into stocks and investing too...
Thanks for the family well-wishes. Only child... my mom and dad are well into their 70s and 80s, so I'm helping the best I can. My wife at times too, but she's doing great now! Really appreciate the wheeling offer Matt! Thank you. Means a lot to me.
Cool, glad the door check effort might be helping you also. I think most if not all will be happy with the results. Hope they work for the rear doors also. I think they might...
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weekendclimber
New member
I emailed Richard earlier this year about getting some stickers. He emailed me back a story of how shipping and steel prices had made him seriously consider shuttering business after 21 years. It's sad to hear that it seems he had to make a hard decision like that. His sliders are the top of the line for our trucks, second to none.
TonyB66
New member
Well, a little over a month, and as stated, I have not been doing much on the 4Runner. I should be done with biz travel until Feb 2020. Most of the family health matters are behind me/us. I still don't see much quality time for fun projects on the 4Runner until November...
I've been accumulating some items though. Oh, first I did finish-up the door checks, for all four doors a couple weeks back. Quite pleased with the results, especially for the price. That said, the door checks/stops of today are quite appealing. They work much better, so it seems. They look to have the same spacing for the mounting bolts (approx 2") and general design. I will likely attempt something more modern, someday...
With the rear door panels off, I replaced the plexiglass speaker adaptors that had shattered. These ABS ones required some modification for the larger speakers, and ended-up fitting well.
One of the damaged ones...
The left rear speaker was disconnected, so I re-routed that wire better so the window will not yank it out again. Great to have tunes back on all speakers, and doors that now stay open when desired.
While in the rear seat area I finally decided to take out the rear ashtray.
Did that for this cool item that just arrived today...
That will house these.
So, my little girls will be able charge their iPads. Speaking of which, I booked the cabin in Tahoe for early April, again. The 12v socket is rated at 25A. Some on Amazon stated that it handles quite a bit of current, more than others that failed, like in solar applications..
Related, I got this, a 300 watt pure sine wave inverter. While I've been a loyal Samlex guy on such inverters, at less than half the price and great reviews, I decided to get this one.
For now, keeping it under the rear seat.
I had a chance to use it with the "planned" crazy CA power outages a little over a week ago. Worked great, and very quiet...
After a fair amount of research for a good, dependable and compact air compressor for my set-up, I finally got this.
I used it to add a couple pounds into each tire, and it worked better than anticipated. When I/we go on trips, it will go in that storage space below, between the rear frame rails.
Another future electrical project, six rock lights, in green.
I also got two white ones to light-up the engine bay as I saw T4topher execute so well. I believe it was him...
The one project I want to do first though, while the weather is still warm, is paint the inside of the frame rails with this stuff.
I want to first clean-out the inside of each, particularly the driver's side which has a large leaf inside, as seen in the video I made with the endoscope. Will use a leaf blower and shop vac, both vacuum and blow modes. I rigged this up to help...
Tried today for a few minutes and ran-out of time. Was not able to get that leaf sucked-up...
Related, my future camping trailer is holding a decent load now.
I think that's it... I'll report back when I get the inside of the frame rails done. Next will likely be power to the rear seats on the back of the center console, then lighting for the engine bay.
I've been accumulating some items though. Oh, first I did finish-up the door checks, for all four doors a couple weeks back. Quite pleased with the results, especially for the price. That said, the door checks/stops of today are quite appealing. They work much better, so it seems. They look to have the same spacing for the mounting bolts (approx 2") and general design. I will likely attempt something more modern, someday...
With the rear door panels off, I replaced the plexiglass speaker adaptors that had shattered. These ABS ones required some modification for the larger speakers, and ended-up fitting well.
One of the damaged ones...
The left rear speaker was disconnected, so I re-routed that wire better so the window will not yank it out again. Great to have tunes back on all speakers, and doors that now stay open when desired.
While in the rear seat area I finally decided to take out the rear ashtray.
Did that for this cool item that just arrived today...
That will house these.
So, my little girls will be able charge their iPads. Speaking of which, I booked the cabin in Tahoe for early April, again. The 12v socket is rated at 25A. Some on Amazon stated that it handles quite a bit of current, more than others that failed, like in solar applications..
Related, I got this, a 300 watt pure sine wave inverter. While I've been a loyal Samlex guy on such inverters, at less than half the price and great reviews, I decided to get this one.
For now, keeping it under the rear seat.
I had a chance to use it with the "planned" crazy CA power outages a little over a week ago. Worked great, and very quiet...
After a fair amount of research for a good, dependable and compact air compressor for my set-up, I finally got this.
I used it to add a couple pounds into each tire, and it worked better than anticipated. When I/we go on trips, it will go in that storage space below, between the rear frame rails.
Another future electrical project, six rock lights, in green.
I also got two white ones to light-up the engine bay as I saw T4topher execute so well. I believe it was him...
The one project I want to do first though, while the weather is still warm, is paint the inside of the frame rails with this stuff.
I want to first clean-out the inside of each, particularly the driver's side which has a large leaf inside, as seen in the video I made with the endoscope. Will use a leaf blower and shop vac, both vacuum and blow modes. I rigged this up to help...
Tried today for a few minutes and ran-out of time. Was not able to get that leaf sucked-up...
Related, my future camping trailer is holding a decent load now.
I think that's it... I'll report back when I get the inside of the frame rails done. Next will likely be power to the rear seats on the back of the center console, then lighting for the engine bay.
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TonyB66
New member
Ah, you must have missed this thread...
3D printed outlet cover - Convert rear ashtray to 12V/USB outlets
TonyB66
New member
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating
Well, I pretty much got the driver side frame rail done, and figured I'd update the thread now...
First, after using the endoscope again, apparently I did get that big leaf sucked-up into the vacuum. I then spent some time with the shop vac on the blowing mode. I found this dust mop, or whatever it is sitting in the garage.
I used that and the end of each frame rail, forward a little over five feet. Came back with some dust and light debris. I also used it within the tube in the rear that traversed the frame rails. Here's a shot of it sticking-out out on the driver's side.
It worked quite well, and I then followed that up with the shop vac, blowing out what remained...
The two foot "wand" that comes with the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating is a bit of joke. It comes coiled-up in a dinky bag.
Don't bother trying to straighten it out. I tried several things, including heat and hot water, and it just has too much memory.
I found this scrap piece of Romex.
I stripped-out the group wire and cut it to a little less than 2 feet. I then secured it to the wand with electrical tape.
I noticed that the nozzle has five jets, one straight forward, and four that shoot outward.
I jacked-up the front and removed the front wheel/tire, and began the prep, like taping holes not being used for the wand. This was the first one, that reaches the front of the frame rail. I put a green mark on the wand to indicate that depth gets me to the front cap on the frame rail.
With the tape removed, the wand with black tape can be seen in this first hole...
Some other taping, but not all.
In that storage area between the rear frame rails.
Added this short section of 2x4 to cover the end of the frame rail which is mostly open.
The nozzle dispenses the coating fast. I recommend doing a dry run to make sure the holes selected work well and that the plan of attack is a good one - that the wand is getting to where it needs to go. And wear gloves. This stuff is harder to get off than most paints or coatings I've used.
Two cans will handle one frame rail, and even that tube that connects the two frame rails. With the extra that I have in the second can, I'll do a second coat, hitting the low areas first, and then other spots until empty. Re-coat is 6-8 hours at these temps, according to Zach at Eastwood, but I'll wait until tomorrow.
Well, I pretty much got the driver side frame rail done, and figured I'd update the thread now...
First, after using the endoscope again, apparently I did get that big leaf sucked-up into the vacuum. I then spent some time with the shop vac on the blowing mode. I found this dust mop, or whatever it is sitting in the garage.
I used that and the end of each frame rail, forward a little over five feet. Came back with some dust and light debris. I also used it within the tube in the rear that traversed the frame rails. Here's a shot of it sticking-out out on the driver's side.
It worked quite well, and I then followed that up with the shop vac, blowing out what remained...
The two foot "wand" that comes with the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating is a bit of joke. It comes coiled-up in a dinky bag.
Don't bother trying to straighten it out. I tried several things, including heat and hot water, and it just has too much memory.
I found this scrap piece of Romex.
I stripped-out the group wire and cut it to a little less than 2 feet. I then secured it to the wand with electrical tape.
I noticed that the nozzle has five jets, one straight forward, and four that shoot outward.
I jacked-up the front and removed the front wheel/tire, and began the prep, like taping holes not being used for the wand. This was the first one, that reaches the front of the frame rail. I put a green mark on the wand to indicate that depth gets me to the front cap on the frame rail.
With the tape removed, the wand with black tape can be seen in this first hole...
Some other taping, but not all.
In that storage area between the rear frame rails.
Added this short section of 2x4 to cover the end of the frame rail which is mostly open.
The nozzle dispenses the coating fast. I recommend doing a dry run to make sure the holes selected work well and that the plan of attack is a good one - that the wand is getting to where it needs to go. And wear gloves. This stuff is harder to get off than most paints or coatings I've used.
Two cans will handle one frame rail, and even that tube that connects the two frame rails. With the extra that I have in the second can, I'll do a second coat, hitting the low areas first, and then other spots until empty. Re-coat is 6-8 hours at these temps, according to Zach at Eastwood, but I'll wait until tomorrow.
BrianSD_42
New member
Truck is looking good man. When are you going to hit some trails!
Also, how is that spare fuel tank working out? I think you're the only one to it that way so I'm definitely curious.
.
Also, how is that spare fuel tank working out? I think you're the only one to it that way so I'm definitely curious.
.
TonyB66
New member
Thanks much Brian. I barely even drive it these days, let alone trails. Between biz travel and other pressing priorities, holidays around-the-corner, it likely won't see any use until next year. I've had only one "vacation" a year since 2012, and that's the Tahoe trip. All other time-off from work was to bust hump on house projects, both the old and current home, and for family matters. I still have two bathrooms to finish-up. Smaller stuff now like sealing tile, installing a shower door, shower and bath fixtures, baseboards, backsplashes, molding, etc. Working on the double entry doors too. Inherently very insecure, so adding several items to address that shortcoming. Tired of being tired... Hoping I can swing retirement year or two from now. Sold AAPL 250 calls again and made some really nice money on those. Paying off the mortgage in big chunks lately, feeling good in that respect.
So, I haven't used the spare tank out of need of course, but did transfer the fuel into the main tank a couple times. One way via the hose with bulb I shared earlier and the other simply by draining the tank into a gas can, then poured that into the main tank. I did purchase a 12v fuel pump and look forward to working on that set-up. Feels good knowing that I have about an extra 60 miles of range on the ready. The added storage is great too. Space for a large tool bag, a recovery bag, air compressor, extra fluids, including water, a tarp and padded blanket for wrenching on the ground, all can fit down there with the tank.
Earlier I created those four 30A hot leads from the improved upon fuse box. Three of those are dedicated to the switch box under the driver's seat. The other I decided to run to the rear for possible future use, like for this fuel pump and a fridge...
And yes, because I haven't seen dirt yet, my chassis is damn clean alright. Seriously though, sleepydad's chassis must be the best prepared one on this forum. I am envious. Having worked a bit on my dad's '63 Jeep Gladiator truck, I'm really big on tackling rust and the prevention of such.
Anyone know what brands of spray paints still use the old style male nozzles, like this?
I'd like to keep using these Eastwood wands and nozzles with other paints...
EDIT/ADD: Called a few local stores and none sell spray paint with those old style male nozzles, just the newer female ones (can has male end). So, I have some of these coming on Friday.
While I'm sure the Eastwood internal frame coating is great stuff, this allows me to spray other paints and coverings too...
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TonyB66
New member
So, I got those spray paint nozzle adaptors, and they were exactly what I hoped. I was able to use the Eastwood wand with the usual Rustoleum flat black spray paint I've been using...
I dumped about two additional cans inside each frame rail. While I might use the endoscope again to check-out the coverage, from the removed tape, I don't think I will. I feel confident the job was well done...
The inside of the frame are coated and done.
I had Seafoamed the 3rd gen shortly after receiving it. For vacuum, I don't believe I used it pre-TB. So, I did so again, while my youngest kept the RPMs around 2k...
I typically like to do this just before evening time so I don't get any grief from the neighbors due to all the smoke, but I didn't do so this time. No nasty stares though, or while driving...
I had a bottle in the garage, so decided to put into the fuel tank prior to a fill-up.
I shared earlier that my rear hatch light broke, namely this terminal fell-out.
I finally made time to attempt a fix. My rivets were too big though...
I felt the bit would mangle the thin metal, and it did. I went slow though and it was salvageable and I got a really snug fit.
I had first bent the terminals outward that hold the larger light so the bulb is better secured now. Works great, however, it still doesn't turn or when the rear hatch is open. So, I went after that next...
I made some time clean the inside of the latch. After knocking-off some rust, I probably sprayed about 1/4 can of brake cleaner inside the latch. I then applied black spray paint.
The light was working in door mode while doing this, so a good sign. I put it back together, and so far it's still working. Not holding my breath on this "fix" though. If it lasts, it will be a nice win for the family. Of note, member habanero is a pioneer of sorts on this latch. If need be, I'll take it apart like she did (rivets hold the case together)...
I had been getting some noise in the rear, and I found a poster who said adding some thickness to these guys cured that problem.
Actually in that photo it's sitting on some a scrap piece of foam that I used. I traced it and got it mounted.
I did the other side too of course. I have not yet gone for a drive, but will report back if that remedies the noise I was hearing...
I dumped about two additional cans inside each frame rail. While I might use the endoscope again to check-out the coverage, from the removed tape, I don't think I will. I feel confident the job was well done...
The inside of the frame are coated and done.
I had Seafoamed the 3rd gen shortly after receiving it. For vacuum, I don't believe I used it pre-TB. So, I did so again, while my youngest kept the RPMs around 2k...
I typically like to do this just before evening time so I don't get any grief from the neighbors due to all the smoke, but I didn't do so this time. No nasty stares though, or while driving...
I had a bottle in the garage, so decided to put into the fuel tank prior to a fill-up.
I shared earlier that my rear hatch light broke, namely this terminal fell-out.
I finally made time to attempt a fix. My rivets were too big though...
I felt the bit would mangle the thin metal, and it did. I went slow though and it was salvageable and I got a really snug fit.
I had first bent the terminals outward that hold the larger light so the bulb is better secured now. Works great, however, it still doesn't turn or when the rear hatch is open. So, I went after that next...
I made some time clean the inside of the latch. After knocking-off some rust, I probably sprayed about 1/4 can of brake cleaner inside the latch. I then applied black spray paint.
The light was working in door mode while doing this, so a good sign. I put it back together, and so far it's still working. Not holding my breath on this "fix" though. If it lasts, it will be a nice win for the family. Of note, member habanero is a pioneer of sorts on this latch. If need be, I'll take it apart like she did (rivets hold the case together)...
I had been getting some noise in the rear, and I found a poster who said adding some thickness to these guys cured that problem.
Actually in that photo it's sitting on some a scrap piece of foam that I used. I traced it and got it mounted.
I did the other side too of course. I have not yet gone for a drive, but will report back if that remedies the noise I was hearing...
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Oh, you can get the tailgate latch off from the outside? I may have to do this - I'm having the same issue with the rear light (not working in 'door' mode) - and I can tell the truck isn't getting the signal because the dash light also stays off (and the truck will re-lock itself, even with the hatch open).Works great, however, it still doesn't turn or when the rear hatch is open. So, I went after that next...
I made some time clean the inside of the latch. After knocking-off some rust, I probably sprayed about 1/4 can of brake cleaner inside the latch. I then applied black spray paint.
The light was working in door mode while doing this, so a good sign. I put it back together, and so far it's still working. Not holding my breath on this "fix" though. If it lasts, it will be a nice win for the family.
-Charlie
TonyB66
New member
Yup, sort of, 3 10m bolts.
Disengage the cable by prying upward, then slide-out the barrel end out of the latch. It will still be tethered by the electrical though, but there is sufficient space to do as I explained, while standing on a stool...
Tap on your latch and see if it flickers. Don't be gentle. Probably a lot of crap in there. I probably should have used an air compressor first, before the brake cleaner, but it's working. Haven't yet checked today though...
A more thorough fix might be needed, and if so, the aforementioned habanero has some nice details here:
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 22 - YotaTech Forums
The below is simply a note to self as I had posted it in another thread, and want it here too, and searchable for me later.
When I was shopping-around for bumpers (skids and sliders too), it was important they be manufactured with high quality US steel. Roy at Savage ticked that box, and others, so I went that route for my bumpers...
That said the Savage hitch is not rated. What he did share with me was reassuring though, his own personal experience and that of others. He often tows a 4x8 utility trailer. Many of his customers tow tent trailers and fishing boats. He said a local guy has towed for years a 5x10 utility trailer for a cabinet business.
Such testimonials are likely the best one will get, but good enough for me as my utility trailer is 5x6, aluminum walls and floor, probably 400 lbs empty. With a rack later, tent on top, full of gear, maybe 1,000 to 1,500 lbs tops, I believe.
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Awesome info. Yeah, it wouldn't surprise me if there is just excessive dust/dirt in there. I spend some time early this spring cleaning out all the lock/latch mechanisms in there that had basically locked up due to dry grease and dirt caking up everywhere. 15 years of volcanic dirt roads near Lassen will do that. I bet the latch switch could have the same issue.
Contact cleaner is probably the best bet in there if you can spray it in the right location. Getting new grease in there will be the biggest challenge, I bet.
I have a rattle in there too, so maybe it would be worth just taking the interior hatch trim off for access to everything.
-Charlie
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