spencenasty
New member
Since the beginning of time, asking questions on this forum is frowned upon.
How dare you.
WFO9 Supercharger Install and results thread
- Thread starter wfo9
- Start date
Since the beginning of time, asking questions on this forum is frowned upon.
How dare you.
wfo9
New member
I think the question was legit and that is why I forwarded it on to Magnuson to get a straight answer from the mfg...
Personally I think you would be fine on 85 in a pinch.. would just need to stay out of hard throttle and monitor a few things, but it would require a very aware and knowledgeable user. They have to have policies that are more or less for the least common denominator. They can't even recommend octane boosters, since most don't work and have unknown results.
I would not run 85 trying to keep up with raptors running across a dry lake bed at 100mph.... BTW
As far as Baja goes for exploring goes.. I'm guessing you are somewhat lucky if you find gas that keeps a NA motor running in a few places there. I'm not usually comfortable putting in gas from the back of a rusty barrel out of the back of a pickup... but if it is your only option.. you cross your fingers and hope for the best. If you are that remote on a regular basis.. .clearly a supercharger is not a good choice. But I also don't think high speed makes sense in that scenario either (unless you have a big support team). So it is an odd scenario to say the least.
There is a long history on this subject and an overall cloud of doubt that seems to follow it. That is why it hits some peoples hot buttons. I've tried to forget the history and just assume everyone's intentions are pure. Let's just hope we get some additional results soon. I know I'm ready.
Personally I think you would be fine on 85 in a pinch.. would just need to stay out of hard throttle and monitor a few things, but it would require a very aware and knowledgeable user. They have to have policies that are more or less for the least common denominator. They can't even recommend octane boosters, since most don't work and have unknown results.
I would not run 85 trying to keep up with raptors running across a dry lake bed at 100mph.... BTW
As far as Baja goes for exploring goes.. I'm guessing you are somewhat lucky if you find gas that keeps a NA motor running in a few places there. I'm not usually comfortable putting in gas from the back of a rusty barrel out of the back of a pickup... but if it is your only option.. you cross your fingers and hope for the best. If you are that remote on a regular basis.. .clearly a supercharger is not a good choice. But I also don't think high speed makes sense in that scenario either (unless you have a big support team). So it is an odd scenario to say the least.
There is a long history on this subject and an overall cloud of doubt that seems to follow it. That is why it hits some peoples hot buttons. I've tried to forget the history and just assume everyone's intentions are pure. Let's just hope we get some additional results soon. I know I'm ready.
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wfo9
New member
Here is the latest update.
I've made progress but am still waiting on a few things to finish.
#1 is the ECU. Hopefully I'll get an update with that today. Apparently my year was causing some issues.
#2 I'm waiting on a few parts to show up for routing the cooling lines. Since my bumper is so tight up to everything.. the normal install location for the electric pump will not work. There is plenty of places to put it.. but I need some additional bends to keep the flow as smooth as possible and complete the installation. Also, I decided to route things differently and have less distance in the flow (and hopefully less pressure drop). I'm also going to add some heat wrap on the cool side to be as efficient as possible. All this is not necessary, it is just my typical way of over doing things a bit.. and that means waiting for specialized parts to arrive.
In the attached pictures you can see the LTR (low temperature radiator), just another name for the heat exchange... It sites right in front of the AC condenser and there is plenty of room even with my bumper (which is the tightest fit I've ever seen)
Normally all the hoses route on the drivers side, but I was able to save a few feet of length by routing the cool side on the passenger side. I've colored the hoses in the picture...the hoses are not red or blue... just black and there is some split loom included, but I have not put it on yet as I'm figuring out exact positioning and will do some heat shield on the passenger side. My pump is currently planned to be mounted near the fog light in my bumper wing. I currently don't have a winch mounted, but I'm making sure I will have as much room as possible to drop one in.
I've made progress but am still waiting on a few things to finish.
#1 is the ECU. Hopefully I'll get an update with that today. Apparently my year was causing some issues.
#2 I'm waiting on a few parts to show up for routing the cooling lines. Since my bumper is so tight up to everything.. the normal install location for the electric pump will not work. There is plenty of places to put it.. but I need some additional bends to keep the flow as smooth as possible and complete the installation. Also, I decided to route things differently and have less distance in the flow (and hopefully less pressure drop). I'm also going to add some heat wrap on the cool side to be as efficient as possible. All this is not necessary, it is just my typical way of over doing things a bit.. and that means waiting for specialized parts to arrive.
In the attached pictures you can see the LTR (low temperature radiator), just another name for the heat exchange... It sites right in front of the AC condenser and there is plenty of room even with my bumper (which is the tightest fit I've ever seen)
Normally all the hoses route on the drivers side, but I was able to save a few feet of length by routing the cool side on the passenger side. I've colored the hoses in the picture...the hoses are not red or blue... just black and there is some split loom included, but I have not put it on yet as I'm figuring out exact positioning and will do some heat shield on the passenger side. My pump is currently planned to be mounted near the fog light in my bumper wing. I currently don't have a winch mounted, but I'm making sure I will have as much room as possible to drop one in.
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THESS
New member
Hey brother went over quite a few options with them yesterday. If it really came down to it you can zip tie the bypass so you don't go into boost. So if you end up in the situation where you don't have access to such fuel, it is safe to do the above. However, you never know, some other person may come out with other tunes however that would void the Mag warranty.
MNT4R
New member
Will gear ratio changes require further tuning?
gm350reratliff
New member
[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] - Thanks for keeping us updated! I didn't get picked for the pilot program but I'm pretty sure I'm going to spring for one down the road.
To touch on the octane discussion, [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] - did any of the Raptors have issues with the fuel in Baja? I do believe the Raptor requires premium and their impressive power numbers were achieved using 93 octane. I know from first hand experience with my common ecoboost, 87 octane was the minimum but it ran sooooo much better on 91 and up, especially when tuned. I will say the Ford ECM on that truck did a good job of retarding timing when low octane fuel was the only thing around and I'd expect the new Raptor to be no different. Does anyone know if the 4runner ECM is able to pull timing as effectively and quickly? I also would think you would be Ok in a pinch to run 87/86 octane and be OK with careful driving but who knows. In Mexico, you're taking a chance with any fuel up NA or boosted.
To touch on the octane discussion, [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] - did any of the Raptors have issues with the fuel in Baja? I do believe the Raptor requires premium and their impressive power numbers were achieved using 93 octane. I know from first hand experience with my common ecoboost, 87 octane was the minimum but it ran sooooo much better on 91 and up, especially when tuned. I will say the Ford ECM on that truck did a good job of retarding timing when low octane fuel was the only thing around and I'd expect the new Raptor to be no different. Does anyone know if the 4runner ECM is able to pull timing as effectively and quickly? I also would think you would be Ok in a pinch to run 87/86 octane and be OK with careful driving but who knows. In Mexico, you're taking a chance with any fuel up NA or boosted.
LawnDart
Senior Member
They ran on everything, and 87 is about the best you'll find at most PEMEX stations. The Raptor ECU is incredibly agile in being able to adjust retardation on the fly with whatever it's drinking.
If we had a smarter ECU in the 4Runner that'd be a godsend.
If we had a smarter ECU in the 4Runner that'd be a godsend.
wfo9
New member
No. It shoudl not. I'm going into it with 4.56.
wfo9
New member
It does pull timing.. even in NA form via knock sensors and learn, but you can only pull so much before you start to burn exhaust valves... The main issue is the ECU has no way to control boost and the pistons are just not going to last if you keep detonating on a regular basis with crap gas. The static compression of the motor is already high, so it needs good fuel to start with and adding a little boost just sort of makes it mandatory in high load scenarios..
I don't plan to experiment with low octane. Just not worth the risk as I run premium all the time anyway in most of my cars. They all run pretty crappy without it except for my tow rig (which is direct injected) and I do notice it being much happier when towing with premium as well. It's easy for me since that is all I ever run anyway....
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wfo9
New member
I put pretty much everything back together tonight.. Just waiting to mount the intercooler pump and wire it up after I get the two hose bends and connectors that I ordered. Then fill it with coolant and hopefully go have some fun.
Got word today the ECU should be done by next Wed. The 2010-2013s were different, so they required a new calibration which was not originally expected. So hopefully up and running by the end of next week.
The install was really easy... I can't think of anything that is difficult or very time consuming with the right tools. Just lots of steps and a little bit of thinking things out with aftermarket stuff to manipulate around. No real mechanical skills required at all. I can't really say how long it took, since I did little bits and pieces as I had free time in the evenings. But it felt like about 10hrs of work.
Suggestion if you tackle this. Keep little zip lock bags for the fasteners for each step with a sticky to label what they are and what step they came from. Makes it very easy when things are going back together... Also label all connections that you remove if you are not familiar with what they are.
I would say the only frustrating things are figuring out how to get some of the factory clips to release in a few places I tried to document some of those so more details could be added to the guide, but there are so many that I got tired of being so detailed at some point...
I'll be keeping my fingers crossed when I finally get to turn the key over that I did not miss anything.... The truck has been down longer than I expected.. but I knew there could be delays with the pilot.
I think it could easily be done in a day if you had all the required parts and the handheld tuner in the box...If you are 100% stock that should be the case. If you have stuff to move or special mounting requirements because of a winch or bumper..add a little time to sort that part out and gather the additional parts you might need. You could minimize downtime by figuring out that part first (which will mainly just be the pump location, reservoir, and hose routing for the intercooler. The rest sits directly on top of the motor so nothing to really interfere with or get in the way.
Got word today the ECU should be done by next Wed. The 2010-2013s were different, so they required a new calibration which was not originally expected. So hopefully up and running by the end of next week.
The install was really easy... I can't think of anything that is difficult or very time consuming with the right tools. Just lots of steps and a little bit of thinking things out with aftermarket stuff to manipulate around. No real mechanical skills required at all. I can't really say how long it took, since I did little bits and pieces as I had free time in the evenings. But it felt like about 10hrs of work.
Suggestion if you tackle this. Keep little zip lock bags for the fasteners for each step with a sticky to label what they are and what step they came from. Makes it very easy when things are going back together... Also label all connections that you remove if you are not familiar with what they are.
I would say the only frustrating things are figuring out how to get some of the factory clips to release in a few places I tried to document some of those so more details could be added to the guide, but there are so many that I got tired of being so detailed at some point...
I'll be keeping my fingers crossed when I finally get to turn the key over that I did not miss anything.... The truck has been down longer than I expected.. but I knew there could be delays with the pilot.
I think it could easily be done in a day if you had all the required parts and the handheld tuner in the box...If you are 100% stock that should be the case. If you have stuff to move or special mounting requirements because of a winch or bumper..add a little time to sort that part out and gather the additional parts you might need. You could minimize downtime by figuring out that part first (which will mainly just be the pump location, reservoir, and hose routing for the intercooler. The rest sits directly on top of the motor so nothing to really interfere with or get in the way.
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jbstrd
New member
Will it be necessary to remove aftermarket bumpers to mount the intercooler?
TRUSTYAXE
New member
MNT4R
New member
Strong work [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] ! Thanks for the updates and the pics. Since so many of us have winches and/or bumpers perhaps magnuson could sell a kit for line relocation (for those lines in front of the radiator) with instructions? Or even include these items with the supercharger for those who need them? This may facilitate getting the intercooler mounted without having to figure things out on the fly....
Can't wait to see the final product. I bet she starts first crank.
THESS
New member
Unfortunately at this point there is no plans to make said kit for those with winches, however, the relocation wont be difficult. The key thing is to insure that you re-route the coolant lines properly. But you have plenty of space to mount the pump in the general area around the original location that wouldnt get in the way of the winch.. RSG is doing a write up on it as well. Your bumper shouldnt conflict with either the IC location or pump locations. Where the pump gets in the way is for the winch mounts.
THESS
New member
As Wf09 stated it shouldnt, we will be doing testing on those that are regeared in the pilot program. We will be doing some logging once my 4.88 are in next week to provide the most up to date info and logging with those that are regeared with 4.56.
wfo9
New member
I'm pretty sure it will go on without removing the bumper or winch. However, there could be a strange configuration out there. The reason it pretty much has to work is that there is already a gap there for the center support and power steering cooler.
The LTR/Heat exchanger is very compact... if it was air to air... it would be a much bigger challenge.
jbstrd
New member
Good to hear. Thank you for your updates and pics. Definitely makes it feel very doable when I decide it’s a good time to drop $5.5k
