WrencherJohn
New member
I cried that it lasts longer than most of my relationships
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Haha - a bunch of different dogs check their P-mail there.
2TH4IST
Member
Got a really funky smell coming from the driver's b-pillar where the seat belt is located. Will remove the panels to see what it is tomorrow. No wet carpet. Though the drivers seat belt is slightly damp. I'm perplexed. Not dead animal smell nor mold smell. No wet marks on the headliner, sunroof drains are good.
I wonder if the airbag portion of the seat belt, specifically the propellant has leaked out. Or something.
I wonder if the airbag portion of the seat belt, specifically the propellant has leaked out. Or something.
RS Dude
Member
Replaced the original Denso fuel pump (at 336,645 miles) just 2 months before its 30th birthday. Luckily it died while parked in my garage, so I could easily drop the tank and replace it without incurring a massive tow charge and mechanics bill. I was contemplating replacing it for at least a year.
My advice: If your rig has high mileage, you might consider replacing it before it fails. Very impressed with Denso quality and longevity.
My advice: If your rig has high mileage, you might consider replacing it before it fails. Very impressed with Denso quality and longevity.
griplimited
Member
Does your thermostat open now?
I just did a full coolant hose system replacement, new radiator, new thermostat, new radiator cap, new fan clutch. All OEM. Jiggle valve @ 6 o'clock
I've been flushing the old system out with distilled water, I had to remove thermostat around flush 7 or 8 since it would never open, properly burped with a fitted funnel and neck with a slight incline driveway. I'm thinking the same thing, the system is too efficient. I did do local driving to try to warm it up when the thermostat was on, it just wouldn't get hot enough.
I'm on the last flush with thermostat now installed again as it's clear, but still a cold lower radiator with local drives and idle.
I'm hovering 186 with SGII
phattyduck
Elite Member
If you engine is running the right temperature, everything else is working just fine. Its only an issue if the lower hose is cold while the engine is overheating.
-Charlie
2TH4IST
Member
Yes what Charlie said. If it's not overheating, there is no issue. Mine was climbing over 200 degrees with a ice cold lower hose. From here on out, I will not install a thermostat without testing it in boiling water first.
I'm staying at 191 w/SC2. With a warm lower hose when t-stat opens.
I'm staying at 191 w/SC2. With a warm lower hose when t-stat opens.
2TH4IST
Member
Sanded and painted the roof. Flat deep army green, or OD green. Was going to use a paint roller, but the pint I bought was not OD green, so just rattlecanned the roof. Came out pretty good. Now no more peeling clear coat. Got to paint the roof rack rails tomorrow and get the new roof racks on.
Then I need to decide if I want to paint the fender flares od green or black? Got to do the mirrors too.
Next up is to install the opt offroad rear link set.
Then I need to decide if I want to paint the fender flares od green or black? Got to do the mirrors too.
Next up is to install the opt offroad rear link set.
2TH4IST
Member
Got the roof rails painted and reinstalled. Almost forgot to put the rack bolt slider things in, dohhh.
Once that was done, I started on the opt offroad rear link set. Uppers were cake, easy peasy and torqued to 64ftlbs. Moved to the lower links. It was a struggle bus for me lol. I don't know why opt didn't use the same link (Johnny joint) on each end and just make the "ball" wider on the axle side, which would negate the modding you have to do to the lower axle brackets. Basically the seam where the joints were forged hit the lower part of the lower mount/they have a slight convex profile. So you either bend it for clerance (what I did) or you grind it out.
I put both zerk fitting on the top. Axle side access is easy, upper access the rear axle needs to be at full droop. Torqued to 107ftlbs. I got all the jam nuts as tight as I could and marked them with tamper paint.
Cleaned up and made dinner. Racks should be on tomorrow, after the silicon (bolts/bolt holes) dries.
Then it's time to get serious. Start building the sleep platform and drawer system with fridge mount, house battery and water/air compressor mount.
$ is stupid tight for the time being so I couldn't buy anything I needed on black friday/cyber Monday sales. Everything I've done so far has been on stuff I was sitting on for a year or so.
Once that was done, I started on the opt offroad rear link set. Uppers were cake, easy peasy and torqued to 64ftlbs. Moved to the lower links. It was a struggle bus for me lol. I don't know why opt didn't use the same link (Johnny joint) on each end and just make the "ball" wider on the axle side, which would negate the modding you have to do to the lower axle brackets. Basically the seam where the joints were forged hit the lower part of the lower mount/they have a slight convex profile. So you either bend it for clerance (what I did) or you grind it out.
I put both zerk fitting on the top. Axle side access is easy, upper access the rear axle needs to be at full droop. Torqued to 107ftlbs. I got all the jam nuts as tight as I could and marked them with tamper paint.
Cleaned up and made dinner. Racks should be on tomorrow, after the silicon (bolts/bolt holes) dries.
Then it's time to get serious. Start building the sleep platform and drawer system with fridge mount, house battery and water/air compressor mount.
$ is stupid tight for the time being so I couldn't buy anything I needed on black friday/cyber Monday sales. Everything I've done so far has been on stuff I was sitting on for a year or so.
Last edited:
NotSonyaChin
New member
2TH4IST
Member
[MENTION=796679]NotSonyaChin[/MENTION] that looks pretty slick! It looks really bright through.
Today I put in the new drivers seat belt. That odd smell was coming from the airbag side of the seat belt. Strange. Also got the roof racks installed. Looks sweet and is nice and rigid.
Today I put in the new drivers seat belt. That odd smell was coming from the airbag side of the seat belt. Strange. Also got the roof racks installed. Looks sweet and is nice and rigid.
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j_2000_limited
Junior Member
Replaced Faulty Upstream A/F sensor
Was getting a P0125 stored and P1130 Pending codes on my vehicle. Dumb dumb at o'rielly tried to tell me it was the thermostat. Did some research and made the painful discovery my vehicle is a cali emissions and required the doubly as expensive A/F sensor instead of an O2 sensor. Thankfully I bought the denso sku off of amazon instead of brick and mortar or oem so did not suffer financially as much as a could have. Seems to be working good since I cleared the codes.
Was getting a P0125 stored and P1130 Pending codes on my vehicle. Dumb dumb at o'rielly tried to tell me it was the thermostat. Did some research and made the painful discovery my vehicle is a cali emissions and required the doubly as expensive A/F sensor instead of an O2 sensor. Thankfully I bought the denso sku off of amazon instead of brick and mortar or oem so did not suffer financially as much as a could have. Seems to be working good since I cleared the codes.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Assume anything you get with "Denso" on it from eBay or Amazon is a fake. It may not be, but that's a safe assumption. Brick and mortar or RockAuto would be my sources...
-Charlie
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
I've received items with Denso label on them, with a "Made in Japna" logo (actual spelling). I later them found them on a "made in China" website.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Its too bad the "Made in USA" from the city of Usa, Japan were not true... Usa, Ōita - Wikipedia - but that was at a time when Made in Japan had the opposite connotation it does today.
Maybe Japna is a city in China. :banana:
-Charlie
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