Hi Dirtco....
Really love the build up thread. You've done an outstanding job on your 3rd Gen.
I'm about to seriously get started on mine and I am wondering your opinion on trussing a rear Toyota axle considering what you found when you did yours.
Now, I've trussed 14B, D60, D70 rear axles with no issues....but the thin sheetmetal of my '04 Tundra rear axle has me a little concerned about warpage even if welding in short sections, alternating from side to side and letting it cool before continuing.
What I'm considering trying is buying some 3/8" plate roughly 12"x12" and drilling each plate (one for the driver, one for passenger side) for the axle flange bolt pattern in the center of the plates. Then I'd bolt the two plates to the housing (to avoid complicating the description, I'm leaving out the fact that there's a step that will have to be dealt with allow the housing ends to mate up flat to the plates).
Essentially, it would kinda look like a "Tie Fighter" from Star Wars at this point.
Next, I'd check the distances on the top, bottom, front and rear of the plates from side to side and cut the appropriate length tubing (likely 1.5x.120" wall) and weld 3 pieces of that tubing in between the plates so that when I weld on the top and rear truss, it hopefully will hold shape.
I currently have the third member removed, so if looking at the driver side plate from the axle side, the first tube would weld in at 3 o'clock and run to 9 o'clock on the inside of the passenger side plate.
In order to get full access to the rear of the housing to weld on that truss, I'd probably put the two other tubes at the upper and lower corner of the plates on each side. Or, alternately, if 3 tubes isn't enough, then I could do four by just welding one in between each of the 4 corners of the end plates.
Obviously, after the trusses are done, I'd just cut the tubing out and unbolt the 12x12" plates.
Do you think this would keep the housing from warping....provided I still use the same technique of alternating sides when welding and avoiding getting the whole assembly too hot?
I also thought about trying to place a straight piece of heavy wall or solid bar stock inside the housing and having it bolt to the housing ends....but I think there's still a lot of room for distortion doing it that way...unless you precision machined the ends to fit very snugly within the housing.
***EDIT****Hmmm....after reading a bit, I'm seeing a lot of folks saying to preload the housing the opposite way from which you'll be welding it.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Ford_9-inch_rear_ends